Democracy in Taiwan (臺灣民主)

How could a country run by a military dictatorship despite tremendous odds and an almost complete lack of any international assistance turn into one of the most successful and vibrant democracies almost overnight?

If you asked that question a few decades ago you'd probably hear most experts say that it couldn't work – How could a nation that lived under such conditions transition into a liberal democratic country with all the freedoms, equality and liberty that western nations profess to enjoy?

The transition to democracy in Taiwan hasn’t been a perfect one and there have been ups and downs, but as we approach the upcoming presidential and legislative elections on January 16th, 2016, I think it's important to reflect on Taiwan’s success and why democracy is so important to the 23 million people living in this country and how they use it (in their unique way) to pave their own road to the future and act as an excellent example for the rest of Asia and the world in the process. 

Before I talk about the election or the history of democracy here I think it's important to note that while people here are embracing democratic principles, an unprecedented shift has started to take place in the west which has initiated a move away from traditional democracy and party politics. The disillusionment of voters both young and old with the current state of politics as well as a distrust of elected officials has resulted in a public outcry for reforms and better representation.

To that effect we are seeing the rise in popularity of the Bernie Sanders and the Donald Trumps of the world who both appear not to be your atypical politician, but a manifestation of the anger people feel on both sides of the equation towards their elected representatives and the system itself.

Taiwan is not immune from such trends and last year a popular independent and progressive candidate ran for the mayorship of Taipei city and won taking power from the political parties that have polarized society.

A recent study titled: “The Democratic Disconnect” which analyzed trends in democratic countries between 1995 and 2014 found that attitudes with respect to democracy in the west have started to become less than favourable. Taiwan on the other hand was on the opposite end of the spectrum - To the people living in this country, the democracy that we see today is the result of a hard fought battle and a test of the political maturity of the populace. The people of this country were forced to endure years of Japanese colonialism as well as decades of martial law which brought with it a period known as White Terror (白色恐怖) under the Nationalist government led by Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) who had retreated to Taiwan and set up shop at the end of the Chinese Civil War.

A statue of President Chiang Kai Shek, a polarizing figure in Taiwanese history.

The monopoly of power once held by the Nationalist Party since its retreat in 1945 ended in the 90s and since then the country has held several top level and legislative elections with peaceful transitions of power. There are elections at every level of government in Taiwan with candidates vying for positions ranging from local village leaders, town and city councillors, mayors, national legislators and president. There are candidates from a number of political parties vying for power ensuring that there will never again be a monopoly when it comes to governance in the country.


- Timeline of events leading up to democratization -  

  • 1947 – Nationalist troops set a precedent for the next 40 years by violently crushing island-wide protests in what is now known as the 228 incident.
  • 1949 – Nationalists lose civil war to the Communists in China and a mass migration of people loyal to the KMT retreat to Taiwan in order to regroup.
  • 1971 – The ROC leaves the UN when the international body switches recognition to the Peoples Republic of China.
  • 1975 – Chiang Kai Shek passes away and Vice President Yen Chia-Kan (嚴家淦)  assumes control of the government as interim leader.
  • 1978Chiang Ching Kuo (蔣經國), son of Chiang Kai Shek becomes president. 
  • 1979 – The US switches diplomatic recognition to China and passes the Taiwan Relations Act which requires the US to help defend the island from Chinese aggression.
  • 1984 – To the surprise of many Chiang Ching Kuo hand picks Lee Teng Hui (李登輝), a Taiwan-born member of the KMT as Vice President.
  • 1986 – President Chiang pledges political reform including a free press, the formation of opposition parties and the right to lawful assembly.
  • 1987 – Taiwan ends martial law after more than four decades.
  • 1988 – Chiang Ching Kuo passes away and Lee Teng Hui becomes president.
  • 1994 – Government allows the formation of new independent television stations.
  • 1996 – The country holds its first free and open elections with Lee Teng Hui winning in a landslide.
  • 2000 – KMT presidential candidate Lien Chan (連戰) and Independent James Soong (宋楚瑜) are defeated in elections by opposition party candidate Chen Shui Bian (陳水扁) ending half a century of Nationalist rule over the island.
  • 2004 – Chen Shui Bian wins reelection by a thin margin.
  • 2008Ma Ying Jeou (馬英九) returns the KMT to power.
  • 2012 – Ma Ying Jeou wins reelection by a smaller margin (51%-45%)
  • 2014Sunflower (太陽花學運) protests take control of legislature in order to pressure government to stop taking unilateral “black box” (黑箱) action with regards to relations with China.
  • 2014Nine in One elections (九合一選舉) take place for all the cities and counties in the country and KMT is dealt a massive defeat forcing President Ma to step down as the chairman of the party setting up a battle for 2016 presidential and legislative elections.

Sunset at Liberty Square (自由廣場)

The future leaders of the nation playing at Liberty Square (自由廣場)

Taiwan has a healthy and vibrant civil society that boasts a free and open media, civil liberties, freedom of speech and assembly and ensures the same rights and privileges as any other western democracy all while under the tremendous threat and shadow of the Chinese Communist Party in China.

Some may argue that Taiwan’s civil society is sometimes too active and too erratic but the people here have little time to waste on civil servants who aren't holding up to their promises and chaos often has to erupt in the form of peaceful protest movements to bring about reforms. These movements are a big part of life here in Taiwan and if the people aren't happy they will be sure to let their elected officials hear about it as they did during the Wild Lily movement (野百合學運) and the most recent Sunflower movement (太陽花學運.)

Election campaigns are often just as loud and rambunctious as the protests themselves with firecrackers, taiko drums, speaker trucks and open houses in every neighbourhood in the country where people discuss the issues and meet with their elected representatives.

Lin Fei Fan (林飛帆) one of the student leaders of the Sunflower movement. 

A protest at Liberty Square

The country is currently in the midst of an election campaign which is forecasted to bring a massive change in the political and social climate. The first major change is that we will have a new president - The current president Mr. Ma Ying Jeou (馬英九) will be forced to step down due to term limitations after serving for the past eight years as the head of state. His dismal approval ratings and lack of any real positive governance is projected to cause a massive political shift with his Nationalist party being defeated at all levels as a reaction to his poor performance.

Ma was elected in a landslide back in 2008 with his “633” economic policy (6% GDP growth, US $30K a year base salary/3% unemployment) which has not even come close to being realized and is a microcosm of the failure of his presidency. Once elected, Ma focused most of his policies on warmer relations with China and because of that all of his domestic policies were a disaster and the economy and the country suffered.

Standing guard

Democracy Memorial Hall

In November 2014 when the nine-in-one municipal elections (九合一選舉) took place, Mr. Ma’s KMT lost the majority of cities and counties that they controlled due to a collective effort of social movements which opposed the direction the president was taking the country and a general consensus among the public that the government has done little to improve the lives of Taiwanese people.

Unfazed by both the student uprising and the results of the election, the president continued his unpopular policies (including meeting with the leader of China) which forced his approval ratings into single digits and earned him the nickname “lame duck president” or the more popular “bumbler” coined by the Economist magazine.

The performance of the president is of course only one of the factors that will decide the fate of the upcoming elections – There are also issues of corruption within the KMT, the government’s lack of action with regards food safety, a suffering economy, lack of opportunity and employment, rising prices of commodities, an unfair judiciary system, an insane real estate market and of course relations with China.

Economic disparity has become a huge issue

The president was fortunate during his term to have a KMT-led legislature, but was still unable to achieve anything constructive over the past eight years, so while the president is on the hot seat, most of the legislators from his party are likely to feel the burn as well and so far during the campaign, the vast majority of KMT candidates have distanced themselves from the president and his policies in an attempt to save their own jobs. 

The situation that the next president will inherit is not a great one and is quite similar to the one that greeted President Obama when he took control of the White House. There are three people running for the presidency - Eric Chu (朱立倫) of the Nationalist Party, James Soong (宋楚瑜) of the People First Party (親民黨) and Tsai Ying-Wen (蔡英文) of the Democratic Progressive Party (民進黨)

Polling has had Ms. Tsai in the lead with almost 40-50% support since the outset of the campaign while her closest opponent Eric Chu struggles to reach even half of that. KMT pollsters have tried to stay positive and have been reporting as of late that their candidate has bridged a bit of the gap in terms of support, but the trend in polling points to a different scenario.  

The blue-green divide that polarizes Taiwanese politics. 

If polling the accurate, it would seem that all signs are pointing to Tsai becoming the next president of Taiwan, becoming one of the few popularly elected female heads of state in Asia. Her Democratic Progressive Party and their allies however would also prefer to have majority control in the Legislative Yuan (Taiwan’s parliament) to ensure a smoother process of legislation and reforms.

Polls as of January 6th (the deadline for polling) 

To achieve this the party has set forth an ambitious policy platform and has also supported likeminded candidates who belong to smaller parties or are running as independents.

The results of the election on January 16th will come quickly with a high voter turnout - including over one million youth who will have the opportunity to vote for the first time meaning that the youth vote in this election will be extremely important.  

Despite the election being in January, the transition of power will not happen until May - The current president thus has a lot of work to do until he finishes out his term and during those four months (if he were wise) he should focus on doing things which would be of benefit to the people of the country and of course help out his party in an attempt to leave office on a somewhat positive note.

Civil society will pay close attention to what both he and the president-elect will be doing during this transition period and suffice to say, the current situation in the country won't allow for a honeymoon period for the new president as work needs to get started right away.

The Presidential Building 

Most of the shots from the post were taken in and around the Chung Cheng district (中正區) of Taipei where the Presidential building, the central government, the Democracy Memorial Hall (I refuse to call it by its other name), Liberty Square, National Theatre and Concert Hall are located. The district is not only the site of the government and political activity in the nation but where most of the protests take place as well.

This blog is a bit different from what I normally do on this website, so let me say that this is just to serve as an introduction to an upcoming post where I have made plans to be at DPP headquarters on the day of the election to shoot the event.

It will be exciting to once again see Taiwan's democracy in action and take part in the event as a foreign observer to see the faces of the Tsai’s supporters and their pride in Taiwan’s democracy. The campaign was a long one and despite a lot of hope for the future mixed in with a lot of negativity from both sides, no matter what the outcome is, the transition will be peaceful and Taiwan will continue to be a world leader in democratic governance.

Part Two: Election Results and Photos from the Victory Party


To keep up to date with the election the following links are excellent resources and are full of all the information you'll need to get yourself caught up and to follow the action: 

  1. Taiwan Elections 2016: Essential Electionic Resources - A complete list of resources 
  2. Frozen Garlic: A Blog on Elections in Taiwan - Excellent Analysis
  3. Solidarity Taiwan - Translated news and polls
  4. The View from Taiwan (Michael Turton) - News, Polls and Opinion
  5. Thinking Taiwan - News and Opinion

Tweeters to Follow

 Elias 林宣谷 | ジェームス | Ben Goren | Michael Turton | Michal Thim | J Michael Cole Gwen Wang | Ketty W. Chen | Jonathan Sullivan | Frank CT Hsieh

Best of 2015

It's that time of year again, time for a round up of the best of 2015!

Before I start though, I hope every one had a great New Year celebration! Here is my very first shot of 2016 with some beautiful 2016 light! It's not a great shot, but its the first click of my shutter this year! 

The first shot of 2016!

I don't know if I'm the only one who feels like this but the strange thing about 2015 is how it seemed to fly by - I've been extremely busy all year working, travelling and having fun. We’ve had a pretty good year here in Taiwan weather-wise (save for a couple super-typhoons) and that helped out a lot with a lot of what I do as a photographer.

It's been a successful year as far as work goes but what I'm most proud of is how I've kept busy and continued getting my name out there. One of the things I wrote last year during my  round up was that I hoped I could do a better job promoting myself. I've been more successful in that area and I've received quite a few contracts and a lot of attention thanks to this site and I hope that I’ll be able to continue that in 2016! 

When I did my roundup for 2014, my website was only a few months old and didn't have the following that it has now - I was new to the whole experience of blogging and promoting myself in this way. I’ve changed quite a bit about how I blog over the past year and have been refining things in an attempt to find the best way to present information to people.

One of the things I've been proud of this year is how I've been able to use my blog to not only show off new work, but also show off Taiwan to the world. When I look at website metrics I'm happy to see that while I have a regular following among people in Taiwan, I get just as many hits from Singapore, North America and European countries. The reason that I am proud of this is because I can see my website is being used by people who don't always have proper English language resources to learn about Taiwan. 

This year I'm going to do my round up a bit different than last year. I'm going to focus on website metrics for the entire year, social media interaction and end it with some of my personal favourites. I'm also going to provide links for everything so that you can see the blogs where the photos came from and see some of the activity on them.

Before I start, I should mention that I was interviewed a few weeks ago by Steven Crook, a popular Taiwan blogger and the author of the Taiwan Bradt Travel Guide, if you're interested check it out here: Part 1 / Part 2.  


1. Sakura at Tian Yuan Temple

The first shots I'm going to share are of cherry blossoms at Danshui’s Tian-Yuan Temple (天元宮.) I hadn't gone up to see the sakura at the temple for a year or two but I was really happy with the experience and the shots I came home with were really nice. One of the shots was quickly sold to a private buyer, another won a photo competition with the Taiwan Tourism Authority and another earned over 1000 likes on Google+ alone.

Blog | Flickr Set | Google+

2. People of the Night Market

Early in the year I planned a photo project that would have me shooting street photography shots of local vendors at night markets around the country. The idea was simple and some people thought that shooting this kind of thing at a night market was a mediocre idea but I used the photos to tell a story and explain things in detail which was very well received. I covered quite a few night markets while working on the project and even travelled to some places I hadn't been before. The project was successful and I had fun doing it but I eventually felt that there was a bit of overload and decided to take a break. I still haven't finished posting completed work and I will probably post a few more night markets in the new year.

Blog | Flickr Set

3. Qingshui Cliffs

I visited the beautiful Qingshui Cliffs (清水斷崖) early in the summer and the blog post that went with the shots was quite popular on social media. The cliffs are one of Taiwan's most iconic landscapes and any time someone posts a shot there is some awe involved. The cliffs are absolutely beautiful and the east coast as a whole is a place that I need to spend much more time exploring! (Plans for the New Year!)

Blog | Flickr Set

4. Tbsagan Mgmgi or Mugumuyu?

On my second trip to Hualien I made my way to Mugumuyu (慕谷慕魚) a place that I had wanted to visit for a long time. I lugged a bunch of camera gear up into the mountains and planned some long-exposure shots of the beautiful scenery. The post was relatively popular but I made a debatable mistake by honouring Taiwan's Indigenous people and naming my post “Tbsagan Mgmgi” (Atayal language) rather than the more recognizable “Mugumuyu.” The individual shots however were quite popular on social media and I fell in love with the place! 

Blog | Flickr Set

5. Tiger Lilies at Chi ke Mountain

The most surprising thing that happened all year was my post about the Tiger Lilies in southern Hualien county. I made a short (somewhat frustrated) post on my blog with a few shots of a mountain filled with tiger lilies. I expected my mom to love the shots and everybody else to ignore it. For the most part my prediction was spot on until the post exploded on Tumblr and was reblogged and re-shared over six hundred times. I'm still getting several notifications about the post today and it's months later.

Blog | Flickr Set | Tumblr

6. Pigs of God

I covered a few temple festivals this year and was quite busy running back and forth during ghost month – Living in a predominantly Hakka area of the country I was lucky to be able to easily attend the controversial “Pigs of God” ritual. The ritual put on during Ghost Month is a bit different in scale than the annual one that happened at the Qingshui Zushi Temple in Sanxia but the basic premise of having giant pigs slaughtered and put on display remains the same. The post was popular and the shots were a bit of an eye-opener for people who didn’t know much about this cultural tradition apart from the controversy. 

Blog | Flickr Set

7. Papa's Secret Lover

One of my most popular blog posts of the year was a one about a local Hakka restaurant that has been the favourite of the expat community in the area for decades. I planned the post simply as an ode to those people who I've known during my decade of living in this country and to offer a bit of nostalgia for their days in Taiwan. I could never have imagined that the post would become so popular nor did I realize just how special that restaurant has been to the people who have come and gone. I was happy to give a little back to the people who made my Taiwan experience more interesting and I'm glad it was so well received.

Blog | Flickr Set

8. Some of my favourites

2016 is going to be a big year for Taiwan - On January 16th the country will hold both its Presidential and Legislative elections in what polling is looking to be a complete and utter defeat for the ruling Kuomintang Nationalist Party, which has ruled the country for the past eight years. Things are looking like they are going to change pretty drastically over the next few months and hopefully they will be changing for the better. Taiwan looks like it will elect its first female president and it looks like legislation to change the definition of marriage is on the books! Things are looking up, but it is important to remember the political polarization that is always on display in this county and that is the reason I took this photo as politics in Taiwan is either blue or green. 

Above are a few photos from the year that I was personally quite fond of. I think this post is running a bit long, so I won't go in detail about why I like them so much. I'll just leave them there and hope you appreciate them as well! 

Happy New Year and I hope 2016 will be a good one for everyone! 

Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺)

This post is a continuation on my series of posts on the historic Monga (艋舺) district of Taipei. In the first three posts I shared photos of Qingshan Temple and the Qingshan King Festival which is a lively Taoist festival which takes place every year in late November/early December. Then I continued with a short series of street shots from around the district. Today I'm finishing the series with a look at Longshan Temple which is considered in some circles to be the most important temple in the city. If you haven't seen the five two posts in the series I've linked to them below:

Qingshan Temple and King Festival (青山宮/青山靈安尊王) 

Part 1 | Part Two | Temple

Street Photography posts

Bangka Park | The temple | Streets of Bangka


Main facade of the temple

Well this is it, the day has come - I started this website and this blog over fifteen months ago and I've travelled all over the country introducing Taiwan to people mixing my photography, language ability and my experience to the best of my ability, but the day has finally come, after introducing many other temples, it's time for me to talk about Longshan Temple!

Longshan temple is one of Taiwan's most iconic temples, at any given time of the day you will find it is full of Taiwanese and tourists alike and it clearly deserves all the accolades it gets. I know this will be a post that gets more web traffic than all my other temple posts but what I hope I can do is offer some great information about the temple but also include some slight nudges that point tourists in the direction of Taiwan’s other beautiful temples, places that don't get the attention they deserve.

Guanyin (觀世音菩薩)

I love Longshan temple and I've probably been inside it more than a hundred times. I hope the introduction above didn't make you think I was going to be hard on the temple – If you look at my photoshop catalogue of photos over the years I'm sure you'll notice a recurring theme of randomly visiting the temple once every few months. Not much changes in the temple, but what makes it most interesting is all of the activity and the people inside and that is what keeps me coming back.

Monga Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺) is an 1800 square meter temple in the Monga district of Taipei. It was built in 1738 by Hokkien settlers from Fujian province who settled in the area. The original temple was modelled after a temple of the same name in Quanzhou (泉州) which is in Fujian province. When the temple was completed in 1738 the resident Guanyin statue was brought from China to share some of its “power” (分靈) with the newly constructed temple in the same sort of way that the Matzu statue from the popular Jenn Lan Temple (鎮瀾宮) does every year during the Dajia Matzu Pilgrimage (大甲媽祖繞境進香.)

Candles in the front hall

Candles in the rear hall

The temple has a long history in Taipei but what most travel guides don't tell you is that what we see today isn't exactly the same as what you would have seen in 1738. The temple has met with disaster several times and each time it had to be rebuilt. The first such disaster was in 1815 when a strong earthquake caused massive damage. The next time was in 1867 when a terrible storm tore it apart and finally in 1945 the temple was bombed by allied forces due to intelligence that said that the Japanese were hiding weapons inside. The temple may have been in the same spot for over 260 years but what we see today is for the most part only 70 years old. We can say that Longshan Temple is the oldest temple in the district, but both Qingshan (青山宮) and Qingshui (艋舺清水祖師宮) temples are older in terms of construction and original material.

Longshan Temple is primarily a Buddhist place of worship dedicated to Guanyin, the Chinese Buddha of Compassion. In the Chinese Buddhist tradition Guanyin manifests as a female deity but in Tibetan Buddhism, the Buddha of Compassion is none other than the Dalai Lama himself. The Guanyin in Longshan temple is quite large and the shrine room is exceptionally beautiful. (Check out the 1000 arm statue of Guanyin at Guandu Temple) Despite the fact that the temple is Buddhist, it has also incorporated Taoism and folk religion as well which like almost every temple in Taiwan shows the tolerance people have here for different religious traditions.

Crowding around the incense urn

Incense urn

Incense urn

The temple is currently split into three different areas – The first of which is somewhat of a greeting area (前殿) where people light incense and candles and perform religious activities facing the main hall. This area is always full of people and tends to be a bit crowded. The main hall (大殿) is in the middle of the complex and is where you will find the statue of Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) with Manjusri (文殊師利) and Samantabhadra (普賢菩薩) on the sides with the eighteen Arhats (十八羅漢), the Buddhist version of the twelve disciples on either side of the statues.

Dragons on the roof

Dragons on the roof

Dragons on the roof

The rear hall (後殿) was completed in 1792 and is dedicated to Taoist deities which include the Goddess Matzu (天上聖母), the God of Literature (文昌大帝), Lord Guan (關公) the god of war, the Earth God (福德正神) and the City God (城隍爺) as well as several other patron deities which are important for finding love, exam success, etc.

The importance of Longshan Temple to the people of Monga as well as the whole of Taipei cannot be underscored. It is one of the three most important places of worship in the city and has been recognized as as a second grade historical site for its importance with regard to its history, culture and religion. It is a fine example of traditional Chinese architecture with Taiwanese characteristics and a popular tourist spot for people coming to Taiwan.

Getting to the temple is quite easy – Simply take the blue line of the Taipei MRT to Longshan Temple station (龍山寺捷運站) and walk through the underground mall or walk through Bangka park until you arrive. If you are coming to Taiwan, this temple should be made a priority on your list of places to visit! 

 

That will do it for my series of posts on Monga! I hope you like what you saw and learned a little bit about the district. I will undoubtedly be back many times in the future to shoot various other activities as it is always an interesting place with something cool happening. If you have any questions, comments or criticisms don't be shy. Comment below or send an email through the contact section.