Taipei

Taipei's Top Three Temples (台北三大廟門)

Modern Taiwan is a mixed bag of many different ethnicities, cultural influences, traditions and histories, but one of the uniting factors that brings people together is that of the deep-rooted spiritual and religious traditions practiced by the people across the nation.

As visitors to this beautiful island nation, whatever past experiences you may have had while traveling in other countries, or any preconceived notions may have about the combination of tourism and religion, you really don’t have to worry about any of these things when you’re here. If you take the time to visit any place of worship in this country, you’ll never have to fear being approached by weirdos wanting to convert you, nor will anyone ever hit you up for donations.

For the people of Taiwan, spirituality is something that is considered to be private, and you’ll discover that people are extremely tolerant and respectful of others. Suffice to say, unlike so many other places around the world, its highly unlikely that anyone in Taiwan will ever ask about your religious beliefs, and that is one reason why religious conflict is something that seems almost unimaginable here. 

That being said, the religious experience here is also a mixed bag that includes ‘zen-like’ solitary experiences where you might find yourself enjoying beautiful mountain views, listening to the humming of Buddhist chants while sipping on some locally grown tea - or you could find yourself walking amongst crowds of thousands of people in the midst of a rambunctious procession of drum-beating trucks with fireworks and firecrackers being set off mere meters away.  

For the most part, the people of Taiwan are polytheistic, practicing a blend of Buddhism, Taoism and Chinese Folk Religion. Nevertheless, thanks to democratic reforms over the past few decades, religious diversity is a cherished and protected right, allowing the people of Taiwan the freedom to practice any faith they choose - or to come up their own religion if they see fit! As of 2020, the government officially recognizes twenty-six different religions, but save for some foreign imports like Christianity, Islam, Mormonism and Scientology, most of them are related to, or offshoots of the big three mentioned above. Data indicates that nearly 75% of the population identifies with one of these three religions. From personal experience however, I’d argue that these numbers are likely skewed by the fact that most people make little to no differentiation between the three, so when asked on an official census, they likely just checked a box.

Taiwan’s places of worship come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from miniature shrines, located along mountain paths to massive awe-inspiring palaces - so with more than 30,000 places of worship throughout the country, you’d probably think that it would be difficult to choose just a handful that stand out above the rest, but that actually isn't the case. The so-called 'big' temples, in Taipei at least, are easily identifiable, and each of them share a rich and interconnected history with the local community and the immigrants who settled here centuries ago. When it comes to the most influential places of worship in Taiwan, size is rarely one of the factors that ultimately determines the significance of one of these places, and you’ll definitely see that on the list below. That being said, one thing you’re likely to notice is that the further you travel outside of the capital, the larger some of these places of worship become. 

When I originally wrote this article in 2017, I was still somewhat new to the whole travel blogging thing, so after about six years, I’ve decided to give the article a bit of an update. Part of the reason I’m doing this now is because I’ve observed in recent months that quite a few visitors have been landing here, which I suppose is due to the fact that the pandemic is over and tourists have started visiting the country again. Obviously, I’ll maintain the same format as the original article and introduce three of the most important places of worship in Taipei, but I’m also going to include a few honorable mentions, which have also become pretty popular destinations for international tourists visiting Taiwan.  

Before I start though, I should probably mention that after I published this article, I did a follow up with a similar article listing the ‘Top Three’ temples in Bangka (艋舺), which is another list of temples that focuses entirely on one of Taipei’s most historic districts. However, you’ll notice that there is quite a bit of overlap between the two lists, which goes to show how important that part of the city has been with regard to its development. 

Link: Bangka's Top Three Temples (艋舺三大廟門) 

Massive Thousand-Arm Guanyin Statue at Taipei’s Guandu Temple.

Taiwan’s capital is a beautiful modern metropolis, and is one of Asia's leading economic hubs. The city has developed at an amazing rate over the past few decades, becoming a high-tech urban center that, to the benefit of all of its citizens, pays respect to the beautiful mountains and natural environment that surrounds it. The capital is famously home to numerous mountain vistas that, like the city’s places of worship, have also become popular tourist destinations.

Link: Taipei Cityscapes Guide

In terms of temples though, Taipei is well-known for its so-called 'Top Three Temples’ (台北三大廟門), which are cultural relics, each of which date back several centuries to the days when the city was first founded. The travel guides that introduce the country often talk about these temples, which are just as often jam-packed with the faithful as they are with tourists, who visit to learn more about Taiwan's unique cultural and religious heritage.

Obviously, the capital, like the rest of the country is home to its fair share of places of worship, so when it comes to identifying the ‘Top Three’, you’ll find there is a bit of inconsistency between foreign travel guides and the opinions of locals as to which temples actually belong on the list. While some might disagree, my list will focuses more on what locals consider to be the most important places of worship in the city, but I'm also going to include those that are also often featured on the list, and I’ll provide links to individual articles that I’ve written about each of them so that readers can find more in-depth information about them. 


Bao-An Temple (大龍峒保安宮)

The Dalongdong Bao-An Temple in Taipei’s Datong District (大同區) is the unanimous top-pick on all of the lists for Taipei's 'Top Three' temples. The temple has been recognized by the UNESCO Asia-Pacific World Heritage Awards for Cultural Heritage Preservation, and is regarded as a Taiwanese national treasure. The temple has a history that dates back to 1742, and is intertwined with the history of Hokkien (閩南人) immigrants from Fujian (福建), who settled in Taipei and started to develop the city several centuries ago.

Japanese-era photo of Bao-an Temple

Bao-An Temple should be high on the list of locations for a travelers itinerary while visiting Taipei, especially if your trip coincides with the annual Baosheng Cultural Festival (保生文化祭) festivities that celebrates the birth of the temple’s primary deity, the Baosheng Emperor (保生大帝). Similarly, a visit to Bao-An Temple also provides visitors with the opportunity to check out Taipei’s beautiful Confucius Temple (台北孔廟), which is conveniently located next door.

Address: #61, Hami Street, Datong District, Taipei. (臺北市大同區哈密街61號)


Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺)

Bangka’s Longshan Temple is probably one of Taiwan's most well-known temples and as one of the busiest places of worship in the city, Longshan Temple is constantly jam-packed with worshipers and tourists, alike.

The temple has a history that dates back to 1738, and just like Bao-An temple, also shares a close relationship with the Hokkien immigrants who came to Taiwan several centuries ago. The temple is primarily dedicated to Guanyin (觀音菩薩), the Buddha of Compassion, but like many other places of worship in Taiwan, it also has shrines set up to Taoist and local folk religion deities, making it a convenient place to visit.

When it comes to architectural design, this temple is second to none, and is arguably one of the most beautiful specimens of southern Chinese-style temple architecture in Taiwan, if not the whole world.

Japanese-era photo of Longshan Temple

Located next to the Longshan Temple MRT Station (龍山寺捷運站), this is one of the most convenient of the ‘Top Three’ temples to visit, and it’s important to note that it is located within the heart of the historic Bangka (艋舺) district of Taipei where you’ll find a number of other popular tourist destinations, including the Bopiliao Historic Block (剝皮寮歷史街區), Shintomicho Cultural Market (新富町文化市場), Huaxi Street Night Market (華西街夜市), etc. 

Address: #211 Guangzhou Street, Wanhua District, Taipei (台北市萬華區廣州街211號)

Bangka Qingshui Temple (艋舺清水巖)

While Bao-An Temple and Longshan Temple are always featured on the list of the 'Top Three' temples, Bangka’s Qingshui Temple seems to be the one that is 'questionable' as to whether or not it belongs on the list. This isn't to say that this temple isn't amazing, or that its history, which dates back to 1787 isn't as impressive. It just isn't as ‘busy’ as the other two temples, which often make the list, nor is it as popular with tourists. 

Nevertheless, Qingshui Temple, like Longshan Temple and Bao-An Temple shares an interconnected history with the Hokkien immigrants who settled in Taipei several centuries ago. The temple is dedicated to Master Qingshui (清水祖師), a popular Buddhist monk and folk-hero whose worship was imported to Taiwan by immigrants from Fujian province in China. 

As far as I’m concerned, Qingshui Temple makes the list as one of the 'Top Three' due to its age, and the important relationship it has played throughout history. That being said, I think it’s important to note that there are several ‘Qingshui Temples’ in the Greater Taipei area with the one in New Taipei City’s Sanxia District (三峽區) being incredibly influential, and one of my personal favorites. 

Link: Qingshui Zushi Temple (清水祖師宮)

Japanese-era photo of Qingshui Temple

Whether you agree or not that Bangka’s Qingshui Temple belongs on the list, no one can deny it’s history and its importance with regard to the development of the city, so even though it’s relatively quieter by comparison to the two above, it’s still one of the city’s most important places of worship.

Address: #81 Kanding Road, Wanhua District, Taipei (臺北市萬華區康定路81號)


Xia-Hai City God Temple (霞海城隍廟)

Dadaocheng’s Xia-Hai City God Temple is one of the temples that is often placed on the list of the 'Top Three' temples of Taipei, and is clearly deserving of such an honor - the temple which is now over 160 years old is an important place of worship for the people of Taipei, but unlike the other temples on the list, it has never been rebuilt. Thus, when you visit today, what you’ll see is more or less what you would have seen back in 1859 when it was originally constructed.

Even though the temple is primarily dedicated to the City God (城隍爺), it has become especially popular in recent years with tourists from Japan, who visit hoping to find luck in love thanks to the effort of Yue-Lao (月下老人), the god of match-making. Of all the places of worship in Taiwan that have enshrined this deity, the Xia-Hai City God Temple is probably the most highly regarded for his high success rate in helping people find a partner. You can be sure that during any visit to the temple, you’ll encounter singles from all over Taiwan seeking some divine assistance in their search for a significant other.  

While this temple is not as large as some of the others on the list, the history that it shares with the development of the Dadaocheng (大稻埕) area of Taipei, serving as a protector of the city has helped to shape the Taipei into the place it is today.

So whether you’re looking for love, or just a cool temple to visit, the City God Temple on the popular Dihua Street tourist area is one of the city’s most important places to visit! 

Address: #61, Dihua Street, Datong District, Taipei (台北市迪化街一段61號)


Xingtian Temple (行天宮)

Xingtian Temple is another one of the temples that often gets added to the list of the 'Top Three' temples in Taipei. Unlike the other temples, this one doesn’t have a long intertwining history with the development of the city. Constructed a little more than a half-century ago, the temple is not even remotely close in age as some of the other entries on the list, but don't let age fool you, the significance of this one cannot be understated. The temple is visited by an estimated 10,000 people each day, and even though it has a short history, it has become a quintessential place of worship, and also a major attraction for tourists. 

Due to its age, and the lack of centuries-old traditions, the temple has become somewhat of a trendsetter in recent years making waves within the spiritual world in Taiwan. In an effort to reduce its carbon footprint, Xingtian Temple became one of the first major places of worship in Taiwan to ban the practice of burning paper or incense within the temple, which in turn has resulted in many other places of worship reconsidering some of their practices in order to protect the environment.

Primarily dedicated to Lord Guan (關聖帝君), a historic figure whose exploits are told in the "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" (三國演義), his legend has transcended history books, and he has become an important figure within Buddhism, Taoism, and Chinese Folk Religion traditions. Lord Guan is worshiped as an ‘all-knowing’ and ‘all-powerful' deity as a god of war, and a patron saint of business people and scholars. Worship of Lord Guan, however, may not necessarily be the main reason why Xingtian Temple has become so popular - the temple is highly regarded within the capital as one of the best places to go to have a traditional "recalling frightening souls" (收驚) ceremony performed. While visiting you are very likely to see long lines of people waiting to have this age-old, yet slowly disappearing, Taoist ritual performed, which helps purify oneself and bring calm to your soul. 

Xingtian Temple is conveniently located next to an MRT station that shares its name, so getting there is rather straightforward, paying a visit to the temple is quite easy for any of you who’d like to check it out.

Address: #109 Minchuan Road Section 2, Zhongshan District, Taipei (台北市中山區民權東路二段109號)


Qingshan Temple (艋舺青山宮)

One of the temples that I feel deserves a place on the list of the city’s most important places of worship is Bangka’s Qingshan Temple. Located a short distance away from both Longshan Temple and Qingshui Temple, it is one of the most important places of worship in the historic Bangka District of the city, and in recent years has enjoyed a revival in its popularity thanks to the revival of the Qingshan King Festival (青山靈安尊王), which has become one of the most lively temple events on the yearly calendar.

Dating back to 1854, the temple is located on what is known as 'Taipei's First Street' (台北第一街), and is near the historic wharf, which once made Bangka an economic powerhouse. Dedicated to the Qingshan King (青山王), a historical figure from China's warring states period, similar to Bao-An Temple, people often visit the temple to seek divine assistance in curing sickness and disease.

However, the Qingshan King is also highly regarded for his ability to drive out evil, so when he comes out of his temple once a year to inspect the district, the festival that follows is one of the coolest cultural events that you'll ever experience. 

Given that the temple’s annual three-day parade has become such a popular affair, a visit to Qingshan Temple should be high on any travelers list, and a visit can easily coincide with the other temples and tourist destinations within the heart of Bangka. 

Address: #218 Guiyang Street, Section 2, Wanhua District, Taipei (臺北市萬華區貴陽街二段218號)


Clearly, even though this article advertises a list of the Top Three places of worship in Taipei, I assure you that my math isn’t that terrible. The list of Taipei’s most important temples is one that I find quite arbitrary, but the ‘Top Three’ title is a term that has become well-known in both Mandarin as well as English, so I suppose it’s important to hold true to these traditions.

There are, of course a number of other places of worship within Taipei that are deserving of a visit, so if you are interested in including some of them on a trip to Taipei, I recommend checking out some of the following:

  1. Taipei Confucius Temple 台北孔廟 (Datong District)

  2. Huguo Rinzai Temple 臨濟護國禪寺 (Datong District)

  3. Songshan Ciyou Temple 松山慈佑宮 (Songshan District)

  4. Taipei Tian Hou Temple 台北天后宮 (Ximen)

  5. Guandu Temple 關渡宮 (Beitou District)

  6. Puji Temple 普濟寺 (Beitou District)

  7. Zhinan Temple 指南宮 (Wenshan District)

  8. Bishan Temple 碧山巖 (Neihu District)

  9. Jiantan Historic Temple 劍潭古寺 (Zhongshan District)

  10. Hongludi Temple 烘爐地南山福德宮 (Zhonghe District)

Linkou Guanyin Temple (林口竹林山觀音寺)

Or you can just check out the list of some of the other places of worship that I’ve written about in the link below:

Link: Temples 

Travel guides will insist that anyone who travels to Taiwan must visit at least one temple, and some of those on the list above are the most popular places to visit. While there are of course very important religious aspects to these buildings, it’s also important to note they’re are also perfect places to visit if you are eager to learn about the complexities of Taiwanese culture, language, history and identity. Even if you don’t understand much of what’s going on within them, visiting a temple here is a pretty cool experience.


Jinmian Mountain (金面山親山步道)

The evolution of the internet over the past decade has spawned a new age of social interaction with social media having an effect on almost every aspect of modern life. Social media plays such a significant role in the way we see and conduct our own personal, philosophical and business lives that if you or your business don't adapt to the newest social trends you may get left behind.

Life in Taiwan is no different as the people of this country connect freely to the internet and use it to conduct their daily business, stay in close contact with friends and family and pay attention to the latest news and trends in the country.

Trends in social media have become so influential here that they are reported on daily by the Taiwanese media. It doesn't matter if it is a post from the front lines of a protest or the latest cat video on YouTube, the media here eats it up and often dedicates a large portion of their nightly broadcasts to some of this non-news silliness. 

Social-Media trends not only help to spread public discourse but also helps people find dates, inform theme where the best new restaurants and hippest coffee shops are, the best places to shop and even the hippest places to take photos.

101 is over that way! 

If you've lived in Taiwan for any period of time, you'll likely have discovered that when something is popular, people shower their attention upon it. If a new restaurant has earned itself a great reputation online, there will be lines outside and around the corner and copycats sprout up like bad weeds all around the place attempting to cash in on the success of others.

Why am I taking about all of this you ask? Well, if you follow social media trends in Taiwan you will probably have realized by now that climbing mountains has become an in-thing as of late.

The purpose of climbing a mountain however is not for the health benefits of outdoor exericise, the thrill nor the feeling of success while standing on the peak - Its all done for the sake of taking a photo to post to social media. 

Over the past few months there have been a few hiking trails that have reached overnight success thanks to social media and because of that success the mountains are full of well-dressed traffic.  

Mountain trails like the Pingxi Crags, Huang Di Dian (皇帝殿), Wuliaojian (五寮尖), Kite Mountain (鳶山), Battleship Rock (軍艦岩) and the topic of today's post: Jinmian Mountain (金面山) are all trending as of late thanks to the power of social media. 

While I would typically be a bit cranky about having too much traffic on a mountain (people slowing me down) but when the trails are full of young beautiful women who is going to complain? I'm used to just seeing a bunch of sweaty old dudes. 

The sun setting on Taipei City 

Today's post is about one of these mountain hikes which has recently become a social media fad - Jinmian Mountain (金面山) which translates as "Golden Face Mountain" and is also referred to as Jiandao Mountain (剪刀山) or "Scissor Mountain" is a short hike in Taipei's Neihu (內湖) district.

The mountain is not a large one at only 258 meters above sea-level but it is high enough to give excellent views of the city. Like a lot of the other hiking trails in the city, the trails are very well-developed and taken care of and there are markers along the way that ensure that you won't get lost. 

The Jinmian Mountain Trail (金面親山步道) that takes you up to the mountain is only about a 30-40 minute hike and should be quite easy for anyone in relatively good shape. I would say that for most people, hiking Elephant Mountain (象山) is likely a much more difficult experience than this one but I'm used to walking up ridges.

Jinmian Mountain differs a bit from the nearby Elephant Mountain hike in that the route to the top is more like walking up a ridge than a well-developed set of stairs. The ridge aspect of the hike makes it seem more like an actual hike but I'm sure it might be a bit frightening for some people who aren't avid hikers and if you show up dressed in heels, you're going to be disappointed.

If you make it to the top though you will be rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views of the the Taipei cityscape and the mountains behind Neihu district.

You'll also get the chance to take that all-important social media picture on top of the popular scissor-rock which faces the back of the peak.

The city is surrounded by beautiful mountains. 

Getting There

There are three trailheads that you can take to get to the top of the mountain: The first trail is a short walk from the Xihu MRT station (西湖捷運站) that takes you just past Takming University (德明財經科技大學) and is a shorter but more difficult hike that takes you up the ridge.

The second trail is a short walk from Wende MRT Station (文德捷運站) and takes you past the beautiful Bihu Park (碧湖公園) area up a much more leisurely and forest covered route. This route is a bit longer but is also easier on the knees. 

The third route is for those with cars or scooters and takes you up the back park of the mountain to a car park where you let the car do most of the hiking for you.

I've provided links to Google Maps below where I've mapped out the directions from the MRT stations if you're walking or the car park if you're driving: 

Route One - Xihu MRT Station - Peak | Route Two - Wende MRT Station - Peak |

Route Three - Car Park - Peak

The top of the mountain is where you're likely to see the most traffic with people lining up to get photos of themselves on the "scissor rock" which is the reason why there are so many people up there these days and is what has created all of the social media hype as of late.

When I first hiked the mountain, I did it on a holiday weekend and there were far too many people on top of the mountain to make it a comfortable or enjoyable experience. I enjoyed the hazy view for a few minutes and waited patiently for a spot to get some shots of the city before leaving.

While at the top of the mountain I was a bit surprised to see that people were willing to wait for such a long time to get a chance to take a shot of themselves on top of a rock while almost completely ignoring the beautiful cityscape on the other side. Being a bit of a weirdo, I spent all of my time taking photos of the city and the landscape and pretty much ignored scissor rock.

I did the hike a second time a few days after the first with much better weather, much less haze and thankfully much fewer people (I hiked it on a weekday morning). The experience was much more enjoyable as I had the ability to move around freely to get the shots I wanted while not having to wait around for others to move. I even had a chance to hop over onto the rock to see what all the fuss was about. Sorry though, I didn't take any selfies. 

If you are reading this and you want to do this hike but want to avoid the masses of people and long lines for photos, I highly suggest doing it on a weekday so that you can enjoy it a bit more.

Popularity is a fleeting thing and the traffic on this mountain will eventually go back to normal. When it does, it won't change the fact that this mountain is an excellent little afternoon trip for people who are both living and travelling in Taipei and want to enjoy the beauty of the city.

Even though it is an easy hike, I'm a big fan of it and really enjoyed my time sitting alone on the peak with airplanes taking off in the distance.

If you're in Taipei and you're looking for an alternative to Elephant Mountain, this one should be high on your list of places to visit.

If you're Taiwanese and you want to get that shot, just remember not to wear high-heels. It's an easy hike but it's still a hike. You're going to get sweaty!


Taipei Tian Hou Temple (台北天后宮)

The oldest district in the modern metropolis of Taipei goes by many names - To some it is “Bangka” (Báng-kah khu) or “Monga” (艋舺) and to others it is “Wanhua” (萬華區). Whatever you prefer to call the district, it is one of the most important districts in the city and is steeped in history, culture and religion.

Once one of the most prosperous districts in the city due to its proximity to the Xindian River (新店溪), the district served as a centre of commerce for over three hundred years. The area was originally settled by the Pinpu Kaitakela tribe, then Hokkien (閩南人) immigrants from Fujian Province and most recently by Chinese refugees of the civil war.

The district has suffered from a period of decline over the past few decades, yet efforts are being made by the local government to spruce things up, reinvent its image and make Bangka a cool place to visit for people of all ages!

The district is well-known for its treasure trove of historic sites which notably include Longshan Temple and the recently refurbished Bopiliao Historic Street (剝皮寮老街).

On the other hand, Bangka is also home to the popular Ximending Shopping District (西門町), Taipei’s answer to the hip and modern Shibuya shopping district in Tokyo where all of the latest fashion, technology and cuisine meet to offer a great shopping experience for those who visit.

The history of Bangka would not be what it is though without the influence of its 'Big Three Temples' (艋舺三大廟門) which have served not only as important places of worship but also as the glue that helped to preserve the cultural heritage and traditions of one of Taiwan's largest groups of immigrants alive for the past few centuries.

I've blogged in the past about a few of Bangka's other famous temples which include Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺), Qingshan Temple (艋舺青山宮) and Qingshui Temple (艋舺清水巖) but today I will be focusing on Taipei's Tian Hou Temple (台北天后宮).

The Main Shrine Room

Taipei's Tian Hou Temple, which is also known by locals as the "Ximending Mazu Temple" (西門町媽祖廟) is one that is easy to miss as it sits in an obscure and almost hidden location in the bustling Ximending shopping district. Most tourists pass by the temple and don't actually even realize that it is there.

The entrance to the temple looks like the entrance to a normal building, with a few lanterns on the outside and a temple plaque which indicate that a temple is inside. To reach the temple you have to walk through a small tunnel-like corridor which opens up to an open courtyard with a beautiful temple that surprised even me on my first visit. You would never expect to find a place like this in the middle of Ximending and is part of why I'm so fond of it.

The words "Tian Hou" (天后) in the temple's name translate as "Heavenly Queen" and refer to the goddess Mazu (媽祖), the principle deity of the temple and one who is an extremely popular deity in Taiwan.

It is estimated that there are over 1000 different locations to worship Mazu in Taiwan with temples dedicated solely in her honour as well as having shrines set up in other temples as well giant statues in various spots throughout the country. Mazu worship is an important part of life in Taiwan and as time has passed, the goddess has become known as a patron saint of the country.

History

Looking towards the entrance to the temple. 

There are many temples dedicated to Mazu worship all over the country but the name "Tian Hou Temple" (天后宮) however is one that has become synonymous with worship of the sea goddess and has been an important part of Taiwanese culture since 1593.

The first 'Tian Hou Temple' was constructed on the offshore islands of Peng Hu (澎湖) and the next one in 1664 in Tainan. Since then, many other Tian Hou temples have been constructed all over the country with the Taipei branch being a young one at over 270 years old.

Originally constructed in 1746, the temple is technically one of the oldest in the city yet, like a lot of Taipei's other major places of worship, the structure you see today has had to be rebuilt on more than one occasion, has changed locations and strangely enough has become a story of two different temples from two different religions merging into one.

Temple's like Longshan Temple and Bao-An Temple have also experienced their fair share of misfortune over the past few centuries, but I have to say that the history of Taipei's Tian Hou Temple is probably one of the most interesting (and confusing) of the temples I've researched so far!

I'll lay out the reasons why I think the history of this temple is particularly interesting in a timeline to hopefully give a less confusing idea of what happened:

The Tiger General Army

 1746 (乾隆11年) - Hsin-Hsing Temple (新興宮)

Taipei's "Mazu Temple" was originally constructed with the name "Hsin-Hsing Temple" (新興宮) after funds were collected from immigrant merchants hailing from Quanzhou (泉州) in Fujian Province. These immigrants were some of the same people who funded the construction of Longshan Temple, Qingshan Temple and Qingshui Temple and helped to build a spiritual network for the Hokkien people who settled in the area.

1813 (嘉慶十八年) - Hsin-Hsing Temple (新興宮)

Hsin-Hsing temple was completely destroyed in a fire and reconstructed over a period of 12 years.

1899 (明治32年) - Hong-Fa Temple (弘法寺)

In 1899, a Zen Buddhist temple in the Shingon Tradition (真言宗) was built in Ximending as a mission to help with the spread Buddhism in Taiwan. The mission was to become part of what would eventually a concerted effort by the colonial government to convert the locals into Japanese citizens.

1910 (明治43年) - Hong-Fa Temple (弘法寺)

The mission was renamed "Hong-Fa Temple" (弘法寺) in honour of the prolific Japanese Buddhist monk Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師) who helped spread Buddhism in Japan. Interestingly, Kōbō-Daishi is still worshipped at Tian Hou Temple today, a nod to the temple's history.

1943 (昭和十八年) - Hsin-Hsing Temple (新興宮)

In order to protect Japan and its interests in Taiwan and in the Pacific, the Japanese constructed several air strips throughout the country and began to further build up its military presence. In order to construct an airstrip close to the Governors Residence (Now Taiwan's Presidential Palace) the Japanese demolished Hsin-Hsing Temple. The statues inside would be moved to nearby Longshan Temple for safekeeping.

The reds in this temple are beautiful. 

1948 (民國37年) - Hong Fa Temple becomes the Taipei Mazu temple.

After Japan's cessation of Taiwan, the Republic of China government in Nanjing haphazardly decided that the Japanese designed Hong Fa temple would be reclaimed and the former Hsin-Hsing temple would move in and take control of the grounds.

This decision met with controversy with the local population due to the fact that Hong-Fa Temple was designed by the Japanese and did not follow the rules of Feng-Shui which made it unsuitable.

1953 (民國42年) - Taiwan Tian Hou Temple (臺灣省天后宮)

A fire completely destroys the temple which ends up offering the locals a chance to redesign the temple and its grounds according to Feng Shui and traditional design.

1959 (民國48年) - Taiwan Tian Hou Temple (臺灣省天后宮)

On the 1000 year anniversary of Mazu's birth, the temple reconstruction is completed and opens to the public just in time for celebrations.

1967 (民國56年) - Taipei Tian Hou Temple (台北天后宮)

Taipei City officially becomes a municipality and the temple is renamed "Taipei Tian Hou Temple" by the city government.

Mazu Worship

The Heavenly Goddess herself. 

Mazu, the goddess of the sea is a popular folk religion deity who is worshipped by the people's of Taiwan, Southern China, Malaysia and Singapore.

As a deity, she is thought to travel the seas protecting her believers which for Taiwan (as an island nation) was important with its early sea-based economy. Mazu worship has been a popular aspect of life in the country for hundreds of years with over a thousand temples or shrines dedicated to her.

As the patron deity of Taiwan, Mazu worship is said to be the 'glue' which binds together the people of various ethnicities as well as being the foundation for Taiwan's evolving culture and national identity.

I'm not sure how much of this is true, but there is no doubt that Mazu is an important figure in Taiwan and the respect that is given to her often trumps that of all of the other important deities worshipped throughout the country. Statistics show that before 1980 there were only 509 temples or shrines in Taiwan dedicated in her honour compared to the over one thousand today.

Mazu worship has been a popular aspect of Taiwanese history for hundreds of years, but that worship shows no history of slowing down and is now more popular than it has ever been.

Mazu, who in life was named Lin Moniang (林默娘) is thought to have been born on (my birthday) March 23rd in the year 960 in China's Fujian Province. Despite living a short life, legends are told of how she performed several miracles saving seafaring people from ultimate doom with her skills before ultimately ascending to the heavens as a deity.

In all of the legends that tell of Mazu's life, she was unmarried and a virgin by choice. She is described as a pious young woman who worshipped the Goddess Guanyin (觀音) and was a person filled with kindness and compassion for all living beings.

She is said to have been an extremely proficient swimmer who had supernatural gifts and was born into a family that made its living by the sea.

Mazu is believed to have died at the young age of 27 yet stories of her death differ. Some people believe that she died while attempting to rescue her family who were out at sea during a typhoon while others believe she climbed a mountain and ascended into heaven on her own.

If you are interested in learning more about Mazu worship and the legends surrounding her life and death check out this very well-detailed Wikipedia article about her: Mazu (Goddess) 

Kobo Daichi (弘法大師)

Kobo-Daishi

When the Chinese Nationalists retreated to Taiwan in 1949 at the end of the Chinese Civil War, they attempted to erase the influence of Japanese culture, religion and language and impose Mandarin upon the people. This campaign led to the destruction of many Buddhist and Shinto temples all around the country but due to a lack of housing, some buildings were spared in the purge.

Its interesting to note however that Taipei's Tian Hou Temple gives not only a nod to Taiwan's history, but its own history by allowing space for a statue dedicated to Kōbō-Daishi.

Kōbō-Daishi, who is also known as Kukai (空海) was a prolific figure in Japanese history who served not only as a Buddhist monk but a civil servant, scholar, poet and artist.

Kukai, who received an education in Chinese classics was not only well-versed in Buddhism but also Confucianism and Taoism. He travelled to China and spent a period of time living and studying in temple there where he studied various forms of Buddhism as well as learning Sanskrit and translating texts to bring back with him to Japan.

He is remembered today for his founding of the Shingon (真言宗) or “True Word" school of Zen Buddhism as well as his contributions to improving Japanese society through the creation of the "kana" syllable system which is still used today as well as the founding of Japan's first public schools.

Kōbō-Daishi has become a legendary figure in Japan and while his legacy may be debatable, he is still arguably the most important Buddhist monk in Japan's history and his contributions to Japanese society cannot be overlooked.

The shrine dedicated to him in Taipei's Tian Hou Temple is not only a nod to his importance, but also to the history of the temple which in its present location was once the headquarters for Shingon Buddhism in Taiwan.

English language guide books may not spend much time talking about this temple, but if you visit you are sure to meet Japanese tourists who visit the temple to show their appreciation for the shared history and culture between the two nations.

Shrines

While the temple is dedicated primarily to the goddess Mazu, like most temples in Taiwan, there are of course several shrines in the building which are dedicated to a mixture of folk-religion, Taoist and Buddhist figures of importance.

Main Hall (正殿)

Main Shrine Room:

Right Shrine (左龕):Guanyin (觀音佛祖), Child Birth Goddess (註生娘娘)

 Main Shrine: Mazu (天上聖母), All-Seeing General (千里眼), All-Hearing General (順風耳)

Left Shrine (右龕): Lord Guan (關聖帝君), The God of Literature (文昌帝君)

Outer Hall Shrines:

Right Shrine (左側殿): Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師), Ksitigarbha (地藏王菩薩)

Left Shrine (右側殿):Earth God (福德正神), The Tiger Generals (虎爺)

Second Floor Shrine:

Jade Emperor Hall (玉皇殿):The Jade Emperor (玉皇大帝), Emperors of the Three Offices (三官大帝), Lord of the Sun (太陽星君), Lord of the Moon (太陰星君)

In conclusion, have to ask the question: When is a 270 year old temple not a 270 year old temple?

There are some people who would argue that the building is not actually as important as the idols, traditions or the organization that makes it what it is. For me, I look at the timeline and have a hard time telling people that this temple is as old as people claim it to be.

I will admit though that even after researching and studying temple culture in Taiwan for the past few years, I sometimes feel like I don't really understand a lot of what is going on.

There are times when I think I really don't know anything - This is one of those times!

I read a lot of the literature provided by temples as well as reading books and checking online sources but I've found that the claims made by some of these places seem to be much more grand than they really are.

Taipei's Tian Hou Temple is a perfect example of such grand claims. Admittedly, there is a complicated 270 year history of Mazu worship in Bangka, but it is a stretch to say that this specific temple is as old as they claim it to be.

What I will say about this Tian Hou Gong is that there is still an extremely interesting history and that is where I think the focus should be.

This temple has a history that spans the modern history and development of this country from the Qing Dynasty to Japanese Colonial Era to the current era. Each era brought with it changes that the temple could not escape yet it still stands there today in the middle of Ximending.

Let's not waste time worrying about ostentatious claims and think more about the relationship the temple has shared with the development of Taipei which saw a nearly empty patch of land turn into a modern metropolis thanks to the efforts of the immigrants who came here to start a new life.