Taipei

Moon Bridge (錦帶橋)

When tourists think of Taipei, I think its pretty safe to say that the city’s Neihu District (內湖區) isn’t really a place that attracts many of the city’s visitors. The district is most well-known for its technology park and its giant shopping centres rather than its cultural or tourist attractions.

Things are changing however and Neihu is quickly becoming one of the most attractive residential areas in the city with beautiful parks, great shopping and an excellent public transportation system that allows residents to get back and forth quite easily.

In the past a lot of these places were somewhat inaccessible to tourists visiting the country but now that the Taipei’s MRT system runs through the district, the U-bike public bicycle share system is available and the public bus system has been refined, it is much easier for people wanting to visit some of the sights that are available.

Neihu has its fair share of beautiful parks for families to visit, mountains for hikers to climb, temples for the religious (and people like me who think they’re cool), historic buildings as well as great shopping, fine dining, small night markets and of course a giant Ferris wheel that gives great views of the city.

Today I want to introduce one of the districts most internationally ‘well-known’ spots. Tourists, both international and domestic alike have been making their way out to check out this spot for past few years thanks to a bit of social media magic.

The "Moon Bridge" in Neihu’s beautiful Dahu Park (大湖公園) has become a bit of an internet celebrity of sorts over the past few years thanks to the recognition it is received outside of Taiwan. Like a lot of things viral on the net, you're often left scratching your head wondering what could have prompted the internets to suddenly show favour to a random Bridge in Taipei, Taiwan. 

Before I talk about the Bridge itself, I'll give a few reasons why I think it was able to suddenly become a social media phenomenon both outside of Taiwan and inside as well.

I've mentioned before in the past when I blogged about Water Buffalo Valley (水牛坑) that Taiwan at times has a bit of a self-confidence issue when it comes to the way people perceive the country.

It seems that whenever anyone in the international media mentions Taiwan in a positive light, no matter what the reason is, the media here goes into a frenzy talking about whatever it is that the international media covered. The excitement then gets passed onto the local population who will then all of the sudden show their appreciation.

It doesn’t matter if its a restaurant, tea shop, tourist spot, etc. Whenever the international media mentions something positive about Taiwan, the local media goes nuts and then the roads start getting jam packed with cars and lines of people start forming. It never fails.

My guess is that this phenomenon is a result of an inferiority complex that is ingrained in the hearts of the citizens here because of the constant international pressure Taiwan is put under thanks to China and its bullying tactics. The people here yearn for both appreciation and recognition from the outside world and would love to profess that love for their country, so whenever a bit of attention comes this way, they get really excited.

A perfect example of this is the “Taiwan Number One” slogan - These days you can hear people saying “Taiwan Number One” almost everywhere around the country, but shouldn’t people have always thought that? The slogan unfortunately wasn’t created by a patriotic Taiwanese but actually originated from the antics of an online gamer who had used the subject of Taiwan to troll angry Chinese gamers. Social media picked up on this and we all had a laugh, but then the media picked up on it and now everyone in Taiwan, even little old grandmas know how to say “Taiwan Number One!”

For more information about this phenomenon and this bridge in particular, check out Taiwan Explorer’s excellent blog “Taipei Moon Bridge” Viral photo demystified.

The UK’s Daily Mail posted a story in 2012 which beautifully and quite romantically described Neihu’s Moon Bridge:

Morning mist hangs in the calm, still air adding to the dream-like magic of this tranquil setting in Taiwan. The crystal clear water allows for a perfect reflection of an upside down world, almost playing tricks on the mind. With scenery like this, it is no wonder that Taiwan was formerly known as the Beautiful Island - Ilha Formosa - to the West.

With a description like that, who wouldn’t want to come to Taiwan to check out the Moon Bridge?

In truth, the Moon Bridge is just a pretty bridge in a beautiful park. I wouldn’t particularly call it a tourist attraction, nor would I say that people should go out of their way to visit it if they're only here in Taiwan for a short time. 

Nevertheless, quite a few people want to get 'certain' photos of their visit to Taiwan and considering that the Moon Bridge has become one of those go-to places for photos of Taiwan, I’m posting this blog to give a bit of information about it so that people who do have interest in visiting will know how to get there.

The Moon Bridge is situated within Neihu’s Dahu Park (大湖公園). The park is a large one that not only has a large lake, but many recreational facilities available for the general public and is always a very busy place on weekends with families wanting to enjoy a bit of nature. 

The bridge shares a name with the much older Kintai Bridge in Japan which was constructed in 1673 and has a much longer history than the Neihu version which was constructed in 1979. 

While the Kintai Bridge in Japan has been loved for much longer than social media has been around, the 38 year old Moon Bridge in Taipei was just a simple Bridge in a pretty park until a Taiwanese photographer took a photo of it five or so years ago and worked some magic in Photoshop which caused all of the international hype.

Arched bridges (拱橋) of this variety are common in Asia, especially in China where the first bridge of its kind, the Anji Bridge (安濟橋) in Southern Hebei Province (河北省) was completed in 605AD. Since that time it is estimated that there have been over four million bridges constructed around that country as well as spreading to other countries throughout Asia as well. 

The ‘Arched’ bridge is something that I often saw during my time in China, so it was a bit difficult to understand why this one in particular has garnered so much international attention.

In Taiwan Explorer’s blog, he mentioned that the Moon Bridge was quite similar to the Jade Belt Bridge (玉帶橋) at the Summer Palace (頤和園) in Beijing to which I’d agree, but I have a hard time comparing the two considering both the historical and cultural importance of the Jade Belt Bridge.

Over the past few years the Moon Bridge has been romanticized and sensationalized into a major tourist attraction. For me, its just a bridge. I’ve seen a lot of bridges like it.

I do agree however that the scenery that surrounds the bridge is quite beautiful and if you are there at the right time of day you can get really beautiful photos. The photos also speak for themselves.

Getting the Photos

If you do take the time to visit the Moon Bridge there are a few tips I can give you to get the photos you are looking for. The first thing is that there are a few different vantage spots to get shots like the ones I've posted here.  

The first location is on the Chinese-style pavilion which reaches out into the middle of the lake. The pavilion gives you a good view of the bridge off in the distance. If you have a telephoto lens, its a good spot to get some shots before nightfall. There are two levels to the pavilion so you can pick the spot you think is the best for you.  

The second location is on the banks of the lake on either side of the bridge. The land arches out enough that you should be able to get a good shot of the bridge including its reflection with a wide-angle lens.  

The third location is near the bathrooms on the other side of the bridge. The bathrooms have a spot to get a nice view of the bridge and also have a set of stairs which lead you to the roof of the building which will allow you to easily get the photos you want.  

I used a wide-angle lens (Canon 16-35mm f/2.8) for most of these shots with a full frame camera. This means that I was able to get ultra-wide shots that you won't be able to get if you are using a cellphone or a point and shoot camera.    

I also used a tripod and a remote control to take long exposure photos. Most of these photos are 20-30 second exposures (sometimes longer) and if you plan on getting shots like these, you'll absolutely need a tripod to stabilize your camera.  

The next thing I'm going to say is that I spent a little bit of time in photoshop tweaking these photos. Like the photo that made the bridge so popular, photoshop is a major reason why this bridge looks as good as it does. You don't need to do a whole lot of work to process these photos but you will want to put a little work into making them prettier.  

Getting There

 

Getting to the Moon Bridge is quite easy - All you have to do is get on Taipei’s convenient MRT and take it to the Dahu Park Station (大湖公園捷運站) on the Wenhu Line (文湖線). Once you come out of the station, its a short walk to the bridge. While you’re at the park however I’d recommend checking out the beautiful Chinese-style pavilion which gives beautiful views of the lake as well as the bridge. You could also climb the nearby mountain next to the lake for some great views. The park is also one of the best places for picnics and BBQs so if you’re planning a visit, why not bring some food and drinks and sit on the grass to wait for the sunset so you can see the reflection of the moon and the bridge in the water?

The people of Taiwan are right to get excited about this country - Whether its the food, one of the world's tallest buildings, etc. There are a great many reasons to be proud of this nation.

Taiwanese people do not need the rest of the world to tell them how great this place is, they should know it already. Having pride in ones nation is not always a bad thing and the people of this country should be proud of the nation they have built - and I suppose that pride should include the bridges as well. 



Yuanshan Shinto Shrine (圓山水神社)

For the past few months I have been spent a considerable amount of time researching the Japanese Colonial Era in Taiwan and running up and down the country searching for buildings of historical importance that were constructed during that period.

The colonial era lasted only five decades but in the short time that the Japanese controlled Taiwan, they helped to modernize the islands infrastructure and education and helped foster the importance of democratic governance all of which has had a lasting effect on the people of this tiny island nation.

It has been more than seven decades since the colonial era ended and while there are still quite a few well preserved examples of Japanese architecture left in Taiwan, most of the remaining buildings are in a state of decay and are in desperate need of not only recognition for their historical significance but some much needed maintenance and renewal.

So far I've posted several blogs about two of the remaining Shinto Shrines (Taoyuan and Tungxiao) while also posting about several Butokuden (武德殿) or "Martial Arts Halls" (Daxi, Longtan, Changhua, Erlin, Tainan, Qishan, Kaohsiung) as well as the soon-to-be restored Japanese Police Dormitories in Zhongli and the Timber Industry Dormitories in Jhudong.

During the colonial era it was quite common to find Shinto Shrines, Martial Arts Halls and Police and Teacher dormitories throughout all of the cities and towns in Taiwan. Today some of these buildings still exist but in most cases have been either abandoned or destroyed.

In recent years however the government at the local and national level has started to take the historical preservation of these buildings seriously and restoration projects have started to take place around the country in an attempt to help educate the people of the country about Taiwan's history.

Today I won't be posting about a "building" but one of the smaller shrines that is still in existence and is in a surprising place that due to its relative obscurity remains in excellent condition.

First though, lets talk a little bit about Shintoism in Taiwan - 

Shinto Shrines in Taiwan

The Japanese Colonial Period in Taiwan lasted for a mere five decades (1895-1945) but in that short time over 200 shrines were constructed around the island with 66 of them being officially sanctioned by the Japanese Empire. The majority of the shrines were constructed in the mid-to-late 1930s when the government's Kōminka policy (皇民化運動) came into effect.

The Kōminka policy was an attempt by the colonial government to culturally assimilate the Taiwanese people by fully integrating and converting them into citizens of the Japanese empire.

This meant that the people of Taiwan would be denied their cultural heritage and traditions which would be replaced with the usage of Japanese language, names, clothes, cuisine in all aspects of their daily life in addition to the adoption of State Shintoism as the religion of the land.

Shintoism (神道) was the state religion of Japan at the time and due to its close relationship with the Imperial family, it was beneficial for the government to promote the religion in Japan for the purpose of state-building and in Taiwan to facilitate the cultural assimilation of the people of the country.

Like in Japan, the shrines that were built in Taiwan varied in rank according to their importance, size and location and were separated into different categories which included Imperial Shrines, National Shrines, Municipal Districts, Prefectures, Towns, Villages and those without rank.

Interestingly one of the most common figures in Taiwan's Shinto Shrines of the day was that of Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王) who served in the Imperial Army and came to Taiwan in 1895 to help subjugate an anti-Japanese resistance. Unfortunately for the prince, he died from Malaria a short time after arriving on the beautiful isle. .

As one of the first members of the royal family to die outside of Japan in almost 900 years, he was quickly deified within state religion and became a patron deity (鎮護の神) of Taiwan who would be end up being worshipped in almost every shrine in the country.

In conjunction with Prince Yoshihisa, the most common Shinto deities worshipped in Taiwan included the Three Kami Deities of Cultivation (開拓三神), Amaterasu (天照大神) and Emperor Meiji (明治天皇) while many of the smaller shrines would have focused more specifically on some of the major and minor kami in the religion.

Unfortunately of the over 200 shrines that were constructed during the Colonial Period, most of them were either abandoned, destroyed or repurposed by the Chinese Nationalists when they took control of Taiwan at the end of the Second World War, leaving an important part of Taiwan's historical heritage erased from history.

Yuanshan Shinto Shrine (圓山水神社) 

The current population of Taipei is currently around 2.7 million - During the Japanese Colonial Period however it was a mere fraction of that with no more than 200,000. The city, which was known as Taihoku at the time was still the largest city in Taiwan during that time and was the place where the Japanese would make its capital. This meant that a considerable amount of effort would be spent to help develop the city and modernize its infrastructure.

One of the most important development projects undertaken by the colonial government was to provide the people of Taiwan with full access to running water. The Qing who previously controlled Taiwan had developed systems of canals throughout the city but had little interest in developing the island nor modernizing the public water system so when the Japanese arrived there was a considerable amount of work to be done to provide modern services.

Construction began on an expansive network in 1907 (明治40年) that would consist of wells, reservoirs and some of the already existing waterways to transport water around the city. As Taipei continued to expand however the government had to continue expanding the system to provide for the new residents of the city.

In 1928 the government commenced construction on the Green Mountain Waterway (草山水道) which would extract water from Yangmingshan (陽明山) at an elevation of 600 meters and would transport it to a reservoir at a lower elevation and then on to the network of pipes and waterways that were already constructed.

The site of the former Yuanshan Reservoir

When the project was completed four years later the Yuanshan reservoir (圓山貯水池) added an extra 28,800 tonnes of water a day to the already functioning system and greatly improved the water situation in the city.

Unfortunately during construction one of the Japanese engineers who worked on the project had an accident and died as a result. When the project was eventually completed, the staff who took care of the facility raised funds to establish a shrine dedicated to the Shinto Water God (水神). The purpose of the shrine would be to pray for the smooth operation of the reservoir as well as sooth the departed soul of their deceased co-worker.

The Yuanshan Shinto Shrine was thus established in 1938 (昭和13年) as a small place of worship to not only venerate the Water God but also remember their lost comrade. According to Japanese custom, the shrine was built off to the side of the reservoir area in a quiet patch of land where there is a dense forest.

The simple shrine is something you'd typically see in a forest or on a mountain in Japan but is a rare sight in Taiwan these days making it almost unique due to the fact that most of the shrines of this kind have been destroyed over the past seven decades.

Below I'll explain a few of the different aspects of the shrine:

Purification Fountain (手水舍)

An important aspect of Shintoism is something known as the "sacred-profane dichotomy". In order to ready yourself for entrance into the sacred realm you would have to do so with a purified body and mind. The purpose of the fountain was for visitors to the shrine to first wash their hands, faces and mouths before they approached the shrine.

Stone Lions (石獅)

There are two stone lions that stand guard in front of the Main Shrine - The lions are differentiated by gender with the male lion (公狛犬) on the right with its mouth open and the female lion (母狛犬) on the left with its mouth closed. The stone lions at the shrine are over 70 years old and were donated by some Japanese businessmen of the time.

Stone Lanterns (石燈籠)

The stone lanterns that you meet on your way to a Shinto shrine are referred to as the "lanterns of sacrifice" and would have been lit at night by people who visited the temple to worship.

At most Shinto shrines there are usually several lanterns but considering that this shrine is a small one and a simple one at that, there are only a few lanterns at the entrance of the "Sandō" or the Visiting Path (參道).

Main Shrine (神殿)

The Main Shrine is (currently) a Chinese-style pavilion with red columns that hold up a green tiled roof. The original shrine was a small wooden structure that was either left to the elements or destroyed after the war.

On the platform of the pavilion is a small wooden house that houses the water god but from what I've seen while doing research is that the current "Water God" worshipped at this shrine today is not the original Japanese Shinto Water God but the Taoist Water God (水仙尊王) which was replaced sometime after the end of the colonial era.

For several decades after the Japanese Colonial Era ended the shrine was left on its own and wasn't taken care of which meant that left to the elements it was basically absorbed by nature. In 1990 however workers at the Taiwan Water Corporation took it upon themselves to clean the site up and dedicate resources to its maintenance. Today the grounds of the shrine are well-managed with the grass and bushes taken care of giving the shrine the respect it deserves.

I have seen suggestions that this is the 'most complete' and the 'most authentic' Shinto Shrine left standing today in Taiwan, but I find it hard to agree with such statements due to the fact that the main Shrine was rebuilt in Chinese style with a Taoist God taking up residence. However the design of the rest of the shrine is very faithful to what you'd see in Japan. 

I'll leave the argument about the authenticity of the shrine up to you though.  

While I don't really plan to go into much detail about the abandoned reservoir that sits next to the shrine, I should mention that next to the shrine is the original Yuanshan reservoir (which has since been shut down and covered up.) You are free to walk up onto where the reservoir was or check out some of the abandoned buildings. There are a number of historical objects of note and the area deserves a bit of exploration. If you are checking out the shrine, make sure to spend a few minutes checking out the abandoned buildings as well - be careful of spiders, snakes and lizards though.

 Getting there

 

This shrine is actually extremely accessible and doesn't require a whole lot of time to check out despite being almost unknown to the general public and tourists. The shrine is a short walk from Taipei's popular Jiantan MRT station (劍潭捷運站) which is most well-known as the stop people use to get to the Shilin Nightmarket (士林夜市).

When you arrive at Jiantan MRT station, take Exit 3 and cross Zhongshan North Road (中山北路). The trailhead for the short hike is nearby and is quite easy to find as they have recently added markings which indicate that the shrine is close by. 

Don't be afraid when I call it a "hike". The walk up the hill takes less than five minutes.

Once you arrive at the top of the hill you will come face to face with the former reservoir area and just have to take the stone path to your right to get to the shrine.

The Yuanshan Shinto Shrine is a bit of an obscure spot and doesn't get a lot of attention from either tourists or locals. I'm not sure too many people actually even know that the shrine exists and it isn't really promoted in tourism books or by the city government.

If you are in the area or have arrived a bit early to go to the Shilin Night Market, why not take a quick walk up the hill and check out this simple piece of Taiwanese history? There's not a lot to see but it is most certainly worth your time to check it out


Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂)

The Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall and the area surrounding it is one of the most prominent landmarks in Taiwan and is also one of the most popular destinations for tourists visiting Taipei with thousands of people showing up each day.

While the grandiose monument to former President Chiang Kai-Shek (蔣介石) is a popular tourist attraction, the Hall itself serves as a sore spot for the people of Taiwan who suffered under the leadership of President Chiang and the period of the martial law he imposed for almost four decades and the period of 'White Terror' he inflicted upon the citizens of Taiwan.

While I aim to describe this tourist landmark in the most positive light possible, I won't be glossing over the dark history and I hope that this blog post helps people to understand that the there is a very difficult and sad history that goes along with this memorial.

I hope that I can offer a balanced explanation of this beautiful landmark while also explaining the history of the park and Chiang Kai Shek's legacy in Taiwan.

History

President Chiang Kai-Shek died on April 5th, 1975 at the ripe old age of 89. The dying wish of the president was that his body be interned at his retreat in Daxi (大溪) until such a time that Republic of China forces could take back the mainland by force. The irony being that even in 1975, the reality of such a thing ever happening was an impossibility. 

Due to Chiang's wishes to return to his homeland, his body was not prepared in traditional Chinese fashion and was thus placed in a black marble sarcophagus which was meant to preserve his body until it could be properly buried in his hometown in China. After lying in state for over forty years, it seems that Taiwan will ultimately be the final resting place of the former dictator.

Since his death, the people of Taiwan people have forged ahead with their own national identity and have pushed for reform while the party he and his family controlled for so long has lost favour with the people and has ultimately started to grovel at the feet of the Communist Party in China. 

What Chiang was unable to foresee before his death was that Taiwan would develop into a thriving multi-party democracy. The peace-loving people in the country completely disregarded his dream of 'taking back' China from the Communists and forged ahead with mass development, transforming the tiny island of Taiwan into one of the most advanced nations in the world with a population that freely exercises its right to free speech and liberty.

Part of those changes (to put it simply) was to deal responsibly with Chiang's legacy and the horrendous crimes committed by his government against the Taiwanese people. Today, the people of Taiwan still don't have the full story of what happened during that era but Chiang's victims will ultimately have their stories told with the governments efforts to bring about transitional justice.

After Chiang's death, the government established a funeral committee that would be tasked with building a grand memorial to their ideological figurehead. A contest was held asking for submissions with a design by famed architect Yang Cho-Cheng (楊卓成) winning the rights to construct the memorial.

Yang Cho-Cheng was a master of Chinese-styled architecture with a career that spanned over six decades. Yang held favour with the KMT which in turn gave him the opportunity to design many of Taipei's landmark buildings which include Taipei's Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店), the National Palace Theatre and Concert Hall, the Shilin Official Residence (士林官邸), the Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢) and the Central Bank building (中央銀行) among others.

The groundbreaking ceremony for the Memorial Hall took place on October 31st, 1976 (coinciding with the 90th anniversary of Chiang's birth) and was officially opened a little over three years later on the fifth anniversary of Chiang's death.

The Memorial Park covers an area of over 240,000 square meters in Taipei's Zhengzheng District (中正區) which shares a home with the Presidential Palace (總統府) and most branches of the government and banks. Looking at the cramped city of Taipei today you might wonder how so much land was appropriated for the memorial park - The simple answer to that question is that the area where the park was built was once a military base during the Japanese Colonial era and was filled with squatters when the KMT retreated to Taiwan. The squatters were ultimately relocated and the land was re-zoned to make way for the park. 

The expansive park consists of three large buildings: the Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂), The National Theatre (國家戲劇院) and the National Concert Hall (國家音樂廳). With the main archway, two side gates, Democracy Square (民主廣場), Democracy Boulevard (民主大道) and a beautiful forested park and walls along the perimeter.

A recent protest outside of the Memorial Hall

In a move that would likely have Chiang turning in his grave, the Memorial Park constructed in his honour has since become the site of choice for many of Taiwan's modern mass protest movements. These mass movements which notably includes the Wild Lily Student Movement (野百合學運) whose efforts ultimately ushered Taiwan into its current democratic era and changed the political landscape of this country!

Today the Memorial Hall continues to be a popular venue for protest movements, but it has also become a popular tourist attraction and the site of carnival-like events. A visit to the park is a must on most tourists itineraries when they visit Taiwan as it shows off some of the best of Taiwan's architecture and traditional design.

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂)

The grandiose Memorial Hall which sits at the back part of the Memorial Park is probably the main reason people visit the area. The three story hall is said to express the 'spirit of Chinese culture' and is built on strong foundations which symbolize "Zhong Zheng" (中正) which was Chiang Kai-Shek's adopted name and also means "impartial" and "righteous".

 If you care to read more about the 'symbolic' nature of the Memorial Hall and the ways it (apparently) represents Chiang Kai Shek's character, check out the official site which goes into greater detail - Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Website

The Memorial hall is white, has four sides and was constructed using Taiwanese marble. The roof is blue (representing the colour of his party and *cough* "freedom") and is in the shape of an octagon. In Asia, the number eight is an auspicious one that is associated with abundance and good fortune. The roof apparently is shaped in such a way though that each of the sides of the octagon forms the word for "people" (人) which was to symbolize that Chiang was a man of the people.

Leading up to the Memorial Hall there are two sets of stairs, each with 89 steps which represent each year of the dictators life. Between the staircases is a mural made of marble with the star of the Republic of China and the logo of the Kuomintang. 

Most people don't actually realize that the ground entrance to the Memorial Hall, which is off to right side of the stairs is the entrance to an exhibition hall which documents important parts of Chiang's life and some of his accomplishments in Taiwan. There are also artifacts left by the former presidents estate which include his Cadillacs, uniforms, calligraphy, etc.

After walking up the stairs to the main entrance to the hall, you are met with an impressive doorway that brings you into the large shrine room where you'll come face to face with a large bronze statue of the man himself. Visitors are instructed to be quiet and respectful when entering the hall with guards walking around ensuring that nothing precarious happens.

Behind the statue the words "倫理" (ethics), "民主" (democracy) and "科學" (science) are inscribed on the wall in beautiful calligraphy. The words are taken from ROC founder Sun Yat Sen's (孫中山) "Minquan" or "People Power Principle" (民權主義) and part of the larger philosophy that made up his "Three Principles of the People“ (民權主義) governing philosophy.

Each side of the statue has members of the Republic of China Honour Guard who stand at attention and take part in an elaborate changing of the guard ceremony once every hour and a lowering of the flag ceremony at 5:00pm each day. The changing of the guard ceremony is one of the most popular attractions at the Memorial Hall and when its time for the changing of the guards, an elaborate ceremony takes place which is symbolic of the ROC armed forces discipline and skill.

 Liberty Square / Renaming Controversy

In the year 2000, after more than fifty years of single party rule, the Chinese Nationalist Party was defeated in free and open elections by former President Chen Shui Bian (陳水扁) and his Democratic Progressive Party. In the years since Chiang Kai-Shek's death, Taiwan had transformed itself into a pluralistic democracy with protected rights for all of its citizens with efforts to seek transitional justice for the people who suffered under one party rule.  

The newfound rights and freedoms granted to the people of Taiwan meant that a serious debate could take place as to Chiang Kai-Shek's legacy with more and more details emerging as to what really happened during as a result of the 228 Incident (二二八事件) and the period of White Terror (白色恐怖) orchestrated by the KMT under what is known as the longest period of Martial Law in world history. 

In 2007 controversy erupted when the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall was renamed by the government to the Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall (台灣民主紀念館). The move was a lacklustre and short-lived attempt to right the wrongs of the past with the claim that the name change reflected the desire of the Taiwanese public to "bid goodbye to the old age and to show that we Taiwanese are all standing firmly behind the universal values of freedom, democracy and human rights."

The changes to the Memorial Park included:

  1. The removal of the "Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall" plaque.
  2. Adding the "Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall" (台灣民主紀念館) plaque.
  3. The removal of the ceremonial ROC Honour Guards who stand at attention.
  4. A redesign of the inner hall to honour Taiwan's road to democracy.
  5. The naming of the square in front of the hall to "Liberty Square" (自由廣場).
  6. The naming of the walkway leading up to the Hall to "Democracy Boulevard" (民主大道).
  7. Replacing the words "Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness" (大中至正) from the main gate with "Liberty Square" (自由廣場).

Unfortunately the Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall was an exercise in futility as the changes came close to the end of President Chen's second term and the KMT presidential candidate Ma Ying-Jeou (馬英九) promised an immediate removal of all of the changes made to the memorial hall.

"Mr. Ma" ultimately won the election and the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall was restored shortly thereafter.

 If you'd like to read a more detailed explanation of the Renaming Controversy check out this excellent Wikipedia post about it which is one of the best English recollections of the events available on the internet - Renaming of Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall

Despite Mr. Ma's campaign promises to remove all of the changes to the Memorial Hall, the government was unable to remove the Liberty Square and Democracy Boulevard changes as it would have been seen as a regression in Taiwan's democracy and yet another KMT denial of their crimes against the people of Taiwan.

Today, the beautifully designed main gate to the Memorial Hall is named "Liberty Square" and it is a fitting name for a place that has been a hot spot for democratic activity and protest since Chiang's death in 1975.

Liberty Square is a popular place not only for mass gatherings and protests but for outdoor concerts, festivals and public exhibitions. The square has also become a popular place for students to practice dance routines as well as for others to exercise, practice Tai Chi, bird-watch and relax with friends.

National Theatre and Concert Hall

The most imposing and impressive structures on Liberty Square are that of the National Theatre (國家戲劇院) and National Concert Hall (國家音樂廳). The two buildings play host to major performances all year long and are considered the best artistic venues in the country.

The two opposing buildings which were completed in 1987 have since become major Taipei landmarks and are celebrated not just for the quality performances that take place throughout the year but also for the traditional Chinese palace-style design and modern construction techniques that were used in their construction.

Each of the buildings house art galleries, shops, restaurants and libraries dedicated to the performing arts and tours are available if you'd like to visit the interior. 

National Theatre and Concert Hall Website: English | 中文 

Park

The people of Taiwan people are extremely well-skilled when it comes to the art of designing beautiful landscapes and the gardens. The skill, care and design that goes into designing even small floral arrangements in Taiwan is extremely admirable. The groundskeepers at the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall however take landscape design to a whole new level with well-curated pieces of landscaping art to each side of Democracy Boulevard.

The forested parks to the side and behind the Memorial Hall are also quite impressive. The parks are a haven for wildlife serving as the home for squirrels, birds, fish, turtles and cranes. Local people come to the park to exercise as well as feed the wildlife.

The parks, like the floral designs next to Democracy Boulevard are artificial, but after almost thirty years of existence they seem almost natural. The trees have grown quite large and a stroll through the forest walkways is a peaceful escape from the city.

Each side of the park has a 3000 square meter pond which are named "Yunhan Pond" (雲漢池) and "Guang Hua Pond" (光華池) respectively. The ponds are home to turtles, frogs, King Fishers and a variety of carp.

As one of the top travel destinations in Taiwan, the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall and park should definitely be considered a must visit stop for any traveller visiting Taiwan.

Chiang made a point even in death to show that his "China" was the better one and that traditional Chinese culture and architecture had a place in modern Taiwanese society while the Communists in China were wreaking havoc and destroying remnants of the past.

The architectural design put on display in this park is amazing and the sheer size of it makes it awe-inspiring for anyone who enjoys a bit of traditional design with a modern touch. 

While a trip to the Memorial Park is highly recommended by most travel guides, I also recommend taking some time to educate yourself about the complicated history of the man who was an important figure during the Second World War and whose oppression and authoritarian style of governance for better or worse shaped Taiwan into the modern country it is today. Below are some links that will help: