Moriyama Matsunosuke

Taipei Guest House (臺北賓館)

When it comes to my personal time, it’s rare that I ever find myself with nothing to do. Over the years I’ve curated a long list of places to go, things to do, and restaurants and coffee shops to check out. So, no matter where I find myself in Taiwan, I’m never far from somewhere I want to visit.

Something I’ve had to learn the hard way however, is that it is important to confirm that the places I’d like to visit are actually open to the public prior to leaving home. On far too many occasions, I’ve shown up only to find a locked door resulting in disappointment. To solve that from happening, I’ve had to further organize my list based on various factors and variables that most people would likely consider far too obsessive.

At the top of my list, you’ll find some of the nation’s most elusive destinations, and are those that are essentially only open to the public on special occasions - Places such as the Presidential Palace and other historic Japanese-era buildings in Taipei for example, which are currently home to important government offices, are some of the most difficult to check out, and if and when they’re open to the public, advance notice is often required for a permit for my camera gear. That being said, even though it seems like a hassle, when I’m able to check one of these destinations off my list, I rarely ever find myself disappointed.

So, when the opportunity presented itself to make a long-awaited visit to the ‘Taipei Guest House’, I woke up bright and early, hopped on a bus to Taipei, and spent a half day enjoying the absolute beauty of one of Taiwan’s most important heritage sites. Having been at the top of my list for what seemed like years, it’s one of those buildings that is only ever open to the public on special occasions, and unfortunately for me, when it is open, I’m usually stuck at work. That being said, there are (arguably) very few historic buildings in Taiwan that are able to compare to the spectacular architectural beauty of the Guest House, so with the rare opportunity to visit, I made sure to make the most of my time and also made sure to get all of the photos that I needed as I wouldn’t be able to visit again for quite some time.

Given how difficult it is to visit, I probably shouldn’t have been all that surprised to discover that there are very few authoritative resources available regarding the building and it’s history. So when I started the research portion of writing this article, there wasn’t a whole lot to rely on, save for an unusually detailed Wikipedia entry, and the typical information provided by the Ministry of Culture, which maintains open-source documents on most of the nation’s heritage sites.

Most of my go-to resources for the research I do weren’t offering much assistance, so this one required a trip to Taipei to the National Archives for some additional research as well as a trip to the library of Chung Yuan University (中原大學) to check out the work of one of the university’s professors, who has written extensively on the subject. I’m not really complaining though, visiting the archives is one of my favorite things to do as it is a treasure trove of invaluable information.

The Taipei Guest House, which was originally the Governor General of Taiwan’s official mansion, has played an important role throughout history - hosting important dignitaries such as members of the Japanese royal family, in addition to hosting diplomatic receptions and ceremonies for foreign dignitaries. So, for a building of such historic significance, I’m going to attempt to do my best to tell its story, properly and I hope that the photos I took during my visit do it justice.

I’ll start out by detailing the history of the Governor General’s Mansion and it’s architectural design, then move onto it’s post-war role as the Taipei Guest House, and end by offering information about how you can visit as well. By the end, I hope that if didn’t die of boredom reading the article that you’ll be inspired as inspired as I was to visit, when the building is open!   

Taiwan Governor General’s Mansion (臺灣總督官邸)

By 1899 (明治29年), four years into Japan’s occupation of Taiwan, the colonial government had initiated a significant number of urban development projects around the island, hoping to be able to more efficiently bring the island under its control, as well as extracting its rich natural resources. The development projects included public works, a railway, civic buildings, and the reshaping of the towns and villages that would make up Taiwan’s future cities. In the capital, Taihoku, the government had been busy tearing down the Qing-era City Walls, and pretty much anything that stood in the way to make way for the ‘Chokushi Kaido’ (勅使街道 / ちょくしかいどう), otherwise known as the Imperial Road. That road, which is known as Zhongshan North Road (中山北路) today, essentially started in the location where the Governor General’s Mansion was planned to be constructed and went all the way to where the Taiwan Grand Shrine (臺灣神宮 / たいわんじんぐう) would be constructed, all for the purpose of allowing anyone visiting from the royal family to take a direct route from where they were staying to the shrine.

With the construction on the shrine and the mansion meant to start and completed at the same time, the thought was that these two symbols were meant to put Japan’s ‘power’ and ‘modernity’ on display, helping to convince the people of Taiwan that they were better off under the stewardship of the empire. The Governor at the time, General Kodama Gentaro (兒玉源太郎 / こだま げんたろう), who is remembered fondly for his eight year tenure contributing to the improvement of Taiwan’s infrastructure and the general living conditions, argued that the mansion was meant to symbolize the power of the emperor, and that no expense should be spared to ensure that it would be as imposing as it was beautiful.

Financed directly by the Japanese treasury, the high cost of constructing the mansion became a contentious issue back in Tokyo, especially given that some of the funds allocated for the Grand Shrine were being used for the mansion. Thus, Governor General Kodama’s right hand man, Gotō Shinpei (後藤新平 / ごとうしんぺい), who was the head of Taiwan’s Civil Affairs Office (台灣民政長官) at the time, was recalled back to Tokyo to explain personally to the Japanese government.

The mansion from the front gate, what is now the roundabout on Ketagalan Boulevard

While the grilling he received from the Imperial Diet probably wasn’t his idea of a good time, Goto reiterated that the mansion represented the authority of the emperor in Taiwan, and given that few Taiwanese understood Japan’s power and prosperity, the stateliness of the mansion would help to convince them that they were part of something much larger and prosperous than they could have imagined.

Designed by architects Togo Fukuda (福田東吾 / ふくだとうご) and Ichiro Nomura (野村一郎 / .のむら いちろう), who are also credited with quite a few other buildings in Taiwan, the Governor General’s Mansion was completed on Sept. 26, 1901 (明治31年), at a total cost of 217,000 Yen, which is about the equivalent of $2.2 million US dollars today.

Note: Calculating Meiji-era Japanese currency against today’s standards is somewhat of a difficult process given that most records only date back to the restructuring of the Japanese economy, and massive inflation during the post-war period. To calculate the number above, I used the following formula: In 1901, the corporate goods price index was 0.469 where it is currently 698.6, meaning that one yen then is worth 1490 yen now. (217,000 x 1490 = 323,330,000) 昔の「1円」は今のいくら?1円から見る貨幣価値‧今昔物語

Indigenous Taiwanese visiting the Governor-General’s Mansion

As mentioned above, the completion of the mansion was meant to coincide with the consecration of the Taiwan Grand Shrine, with the timing of the completion of both projects important given that ceremonies were planned to be held on the sixth anniversary of Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa’s (北白川宮能久親王) death. Passing away during the conquest of Taiwan in 1895, the prince was enshrined within the Grand Shrine as “Kitashirakawa no Miya Yoshihisa-shinnō no Mikoto”, and his widow Tomiko (島津富子) traveled to Taiwan to take part in the ceremony, officially becoming the first member of the royal family to stay in the mansion.

Link: Taiwan Grand Shrine | 臺灣神宮 (Wiki)

The rear veranda.

Nevertheless, despite the amount of money that was used to construct the mansion, it was built at a time when the Japanese were yet to fully appreciate the awesome power of Taiwan’s termites, so after about a decade, the building had started to show signs of structural instability - This posed a considerable problem for the colonial government as it was not only used as the official residence of the Governor General, but also as his office. Similarly, it was thought that the mansion wasn’t actually designed to accommodate royal visitors, who often traveled with large entourages, which meant that a restoration and expansion project would have to take place to solve these issues.

In 1911 (明治44年), Governor General Sakuma Samata (佐久間左馬太 / さくま さまた), who is credited with introducing baseball to Taiwan a year prior, ordered the restoration and expansion of the mansion and enlisted a superstar architect, Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助 / もりやま まつのすけ) to head up the project. With a budget of 150,000 Yen (approximately $1.5 million USD). The restoration process took two years to complete, and during that time, the Governor General and his family were moved to a temporary residence nearby.

Moriyama converted the exterior of the building from its original neo-renaissance style (新文藝復興樣式) design to a baroque design (新巴洛克形式), and converted the roof into a French-style Mansard design. Likewise, the interior space of the building expanded considerably and no expense was spared with regard to the mansion’s interior design; Imitating French palace design with Victorian floor tiles, fireplaces imported from Europe, rugs, sulk curtains, chandeliers, ornate stucco sculptures and decorations throughout the building.

In terms of the expansion, a total of 978㎡ (296坪) was added to the interior on the second and third floors, 333㎡ (101坪) for the balconies that surrounded the building, 36㎡ (11坪) for the porte-cochère (covered car port at the front of the building), and 19㎡ (6坪) for the dining room.

From 1901 until 1945, the Governor General’s Mansion housed sixteen of the nineteen Governor Generals who ruled over Taiwan during the Japanese-era. While no expense was spared in its renovations, a few short years after the project was completed, Moriyama Matsunosuke’s magnum opus, the iconic Government-General of Taiwan (臺灣總督府廳舍) building, known today as the Presidential Office (總統府), was completed and official government activities shifted from the residence to the massive new building a short distance away.

Link: Governor-General of Taiwan | 臺灣總督 (Wiki)

Nevertheless, the mansion continued to serve a dual-role as an official residence as well as receiving important guests and dignitaries, hosting members of the royal family, and was the ideal location for important government events - the most important of which came in 1923 (大正12年) when it hosted Crown Prince Hirohito (裕仁 / ひろひと) during his tour of Taiwan - just two years prior to ascending the throne as Emperor Showa (昭和天皇).

In 1945 (昭和20年), when the Second World War came to an end, the Japanese empire was forced to relinquish control of Taiwan as per the terms of their surrender. Leaving the island in a far better condition than they found it five decades earlier, the Republic of China took over and the Governor General’s Mansion became the official residence of the Provincial Governor of Taiwan (臺灣省主席). Then, in 1949 (民國38年), when the Chinese Nationalists were forced to retreat to Taiwan, after suffering devastating losses in the Chinese Civil War (國共內戰), they brought with them almost two million refugees, and the situation on the island changed completely.

Renamed the Taipei Guest House (臺北賓館) in 1950 (民國39年), the residence was put under the control of the Presidential Office, although it wasn’t used as one of the dozens of homes that President Chiang Kai-Shek (蔣介石) frequented during the remainder of his life in Taiwan. In 1952, in what could be interpreted as rubbing salt in their wounds, the Sino-Japanese Peace Treaty (中日和平條約), more commonly known as the Treaty of Taipei (台北和約) was signed at the Guest House, which was one of the iconic images of Japanese power in Taiwan, now under the control of the Chinese Nationalists. From then on, the Guest House has been used frequently for affairs of state, and has played host to foreign dignitaries and allies of the Republic of China, who are wined and dined in the historic building.

The building has been restored on two occasions in the post-war era, once in 1977 (民國66年) when the interior was refurbished and then again from 2002 to 2006 (民國90年-95年) after a powerful typhoon made landfall in Taiwan, causing considerable damage. Once the restoration of the building was completed, costing the government an astounding NT$400,000,000 ($13.5 million USD), the Guest House continued in its capacity serving as a venue for hosting state functions, but for the first time in more than a century, it was made available on select occasions for tours, allowing the general public to get a glimpse of the interior for the first time.

Governor General’s Mansion Timeline

  • 1895 - Control of Taiwan is ceded to the Japanese at the end of the First Sino-Japanese war (淸日戰爭).

  • 1895 (明治28年) - A temporary Governor General’s Office is set up within the Qing Dynasty’s Provincial Administration Hall (臺灣布政使司衙門), prior to moving to the ‘Western Learning Hall’ (西學堂), a school constructed by the Qing to study western civilization.

  • 1900 (明治30年) - The first major urban development plan of the Japanese-era is completed for Taipei, and plans are drawn up to simultaneously construct a stately Governor General’s Mansion and the Taiwan Grand Shrine (臺灣神宮 / たいわんじんぐう).

  • 1901 (明治31年) - Construction on the mansion is completed on Sept. 26, and the first person to stay inside was the widow of Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王), who came to Taiwan to inaugurate the Grand Shrine on the sixth anniversary of her husband’s death.

  • 1911 (明治44年) - Having suffered an incredible amount of structural damage caused by termites, the mansion undergoes a period of expansion and restoration, with famed architect Matsunosuke Moriyama (森山松之助) overseeing the project and resulting in the design of the building that we can enjoy today.

  • 1913 (大正2年) - The restoration and expansion project on the mansion is completed.

  • 1920 (大正9年) - Governmental affairs shifts from offices in the official residence to the newly constructed Government-General of Taiwan (臺灣總督府廳舍 / たいわんそうとくふ), currently the Presidential Office Building (總統府).

  • 1923 (大正12年) - The mansion hosts Crown Prince Hirohito (裕仁 / ひろひと) during his tour of Taiwan, prior to his ascension to the throne as the Showa Emperor (昭和天皇) two years later.

  • 1945 (昭和20年) - The Second World War comes to a conclusion with the formal surrender of the Japanese Empire and control of Taiwan is ambiguously awarded to the Republic of China.

  • 1945 (民國34年) - The mansion becomes home to the Provincial Governor of Taiwan (臺灣省主席) for a short period of time.

  • 1949 (民國38年) - Facing defeat in the Chinese Civil War (國共內戰), a massive retreat is ordered by the Kuomintang, and millions of Chinese refugees are brought to Taiwan.

  • 1950 (民國39年) - The mansion is turned over to the Presidential Office (總統府) and is officially converted into the Taipei Guest House (臺北賓館).

  • 1952 (民國41年) - The Treaty of Taipei (台北和約) is signed by representatives of the post-war Japanese Government and the Republic of China, formally ending the hostilities of the Second World War.

  • 1963 (民國52年) - The Guest House is formally lent to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in order to facilitate the entertainment of foreign guests and dignitaries visiting Taiwan at state functions.

  • 1977 (民國66年) - The interior of the building is restored by the government.

  • 1998 - The Taipei Guest House is designated as a National Monument (國定古蹟), one of the highest levels of recognition awarded to heritage buildings under the current government system.

  • 2001 (民國90年) - A considerable amount of structural damage to the building, likely as a result of Typhoon Toraji (颱風桃芝), forces the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to shut the building down.

  • 2002 - 2006 (民國91年-95年) - The Taipei Guest House enters a four year long period of restoration that costs about NT$400,000,000 ($13.5 million USD).

  • 2006 (民國91年) - After more than a century, the Taipei Guest House is opened up for the enjoyment of the public, however, only on very select occasions as it continues to serve as the venue for hosting state functions.

Now that I’ve gone through the history of the building, I’m going to spend some time describing it’s architectural design, which is quite significant given the age and importance of the building.

First though, as a show of respect for one of my favorite local writers, Han Cheung’s article about the mansion in the Taipei Times is probably one of the best English-language articles about the building that you’ll find, so I recommend giving it a read at some point.

Link: Taiwan in Time: An extravagant colonial palace (Han Cheung / Taipei Times)

Architectural Design

The architectural design of the building is a tale that is told in two different chapters, namely the extravagant ‘first generation’ design, and the ostentatious ‘second generation’ design, which built upon what came before it. Touching on its designers earlier, it’s important to repeat that the mansion, completed in 1901, was the brainchild of Togo Fukuda and Ichiro Nomura, a pair of accomplished architects who designed a fair number of the earlier buildings constructed during the Japanese-era. Building upon his predecessors work, Moriyama Matsunosuke, a man who I personally consider one of Taiwanese history’s most prolific architects, swooped in and made the sweeping changes to the building’s design, which also helped to ensure its longevity, and is one of the reasons why we’re able to continue enjoying it today.

Note: I’m pretty sure that not everyone pays as much attention to these things as I do, but if we take a look at the work of Moriyama, many of the iconic buildings he designed are still standing and in operation today, including the Taichung Prefectural Hall (台中州廳), the Monopoly Bureau (専売局), the Taipei Prefectural Hall (台北州廳), Tainan Prefectural Hall (台南州廳), the Taipei Railway Bureau (台北鐵道部), the Taipei Aqueduct (臺北水道水源地) and the Presidential Office (總統府).

First Generation Governor-General’s Mansion (第一代總督官邸)

First-Generation Mansion from the front.

As previously mentioned, there are some very noticeable differences in the design of the first generation mansion, and what came later. In both cases however, the architects sought to mimic the architectural design that was popular in Europe at the time. The first generation mansion designed by Togo Fukuda and Ichiro Nomura adhered to the ‘Neo-Renaissance’ style of design popularized in France and inspired by Italian architects. The end result was a building characterized by its rectangular and circular decorative elements on the exterior of the building. Staying true to the revival-style design, the building featured a rectangular main-wing in the center with asymmetrical wings on both the left and right. It also adhered to what is known as ‘flat classicism’ in that the exterior walls feature very few decorative elements, placing greater importance on proportion, harmony, and linear symmetry.

One of the questionable aspects of the ‘asymmetry’ of the wings however. was that the original western wing was a flat square section that prominently featured a dome, one of the important aspects of European architectural design that made a comeback with the revival style. The eastern-wing meanwhile was concave in design, and instead of a dome, featured a roof-covered balcony, with an almost 360 degree view of the area surrounding the mansion.

The two-story residence was constructed using a mixture of brick and stone with wooden roof trusses in the ceiling, helping to keep the roof in place. Surrounded on all sides by covered verandas, the one area where you’d find curved arched spaces in the design.

The usage of the interior space was unlike what you’d expect from a traditional Japanese-style mansion in that only the east-wing of the second floor was reserved as the private residence of the Governor-General and his family, while the first floor was home to a reception lobby, administration office, meeting rooms, a banquet hall, and a game room.

Where much of the beauty of the original design came into focus was within the interior where there was beautifully laid parquet flooring and stucco columns located throughout the building that played both functional and decorative roles. Given that the mansion was meant to imitate that of a European palace, the interior also featured beautiful chandeliers, silk curtains, and many other imported decorative elements.

Finally, one of the lasting design elements of the building were the gardens that surrounded the building, featuring European-style gardens in the front and a Japanese-style garden to the rear.

Unfortunately, almost all of the remaining photos of the first generation mansion were taken of the exterior, so describing the beauty of the interior design is something that can only be done through the interpretation of historic records.

Second Generation Governor-General’s Mansion (第二代總督官邸)

In what one could assume was simply a natural progression from the Renaissance-Revival architectural style of the first generation version of the mansion, architect Moriyama Matsunosuke completely redesigned the mansion into a style more commonly associated with what is known as either Neo-Baroque, or Baroque-Revival, a style which would become quite prominent in both Taiwan and Japan in the early 20th century.

Possibly taking inspiration from Tokyo’s Akasaka Palace (迎賓館赤坂離宮 / げいひんかんあかさかりきゅう), one of the Japanese government’s two current official state guest houses, Moriyama’s alterations to the building were decorative in nature, but also practical in that his work ensured the longevity of the building’s structural health. The project got underway in 1911 when then Governor General Sakuma Samata ordered the restoration and expansion of the mansion, and during the two years that it took to complete, the Governor-General and his office vacated the residence.

Moriyama’s vision threw out all of the straight lines and the ‘flatness’ of the original and replaced them with curvaceousness and an array of rich surface treatments carved into the facade of the building. The most noticeable differences can be found in the center of the main wing of the building where Moriyama completely redesigned the roof, windows and the second-floor balcony. Most notably, within the triangular section between the upper part of the balcony and the third floor, the once empty section features some pretty important carvings. Displaying the official logo used during the Japanese-era to signify Taiwan, an important part of the stamp that signified the office of the Governor-General. Likewise, in all of the flat empty sections of space above and below the windows, decorative elements were added to show off the ‘flowing nature’ of baroque architectural design.

Given that Taiwan’s termites were having a wonderful time with the wood used to construct the building, having learned their lesson the hard way, Japanese architects came up with methods to solve these problems. In this case, Moriyama replaced the original wooden roof trusses in the building with steel trusses and converted the roof into a two-sloped Mansard-style design, a style common among the architecture of French palaces. In this case, the roof allowed for circular dormer windows (ox-eye 牛眼窗), a favorite of Japanese architects at the time, but more importantly, these changes allowed for the construction of a third floor, increase in the interior space of the building.

Link: Mansard Roof (Wiki)

With 978㎡ (296坪) of floor space added to the mansion during the expansion, design of the interior space likewise required a considerable amount of attention, and with a budget that was nearly half of the original cost of construction, no expense was spared. When the project was completed, the mansion would have appeared similar to what you’d expect from a typical French palace. Featuring stucco sculptures, columns, stained glass windows and beautiful white walls mixed featuring golden mosaics and carvings throughout the interior.

I’m not exaggerating when I say that my experience walking through the mansion was similar to walking through parts of the Vatican. I felt like I was transported back to my travels through Europe, which isn’t a feeling you often get while visiting historic buildings in Taiwan. I suppose that shouldn’t be particularly surprising though, given that these decorative elements are all indicative of Baroque design. Exploring the second floor, especially, it should be quite easy to see why with all of the flowing golden arches and the network of pillars that you’ll see in each of the rooms open for the tour.

Another important aspect of the restoration project that should be mentioned was to add a bit of modern technology was added to the building, included retrofitting for modern lighting and central heating systems. I’m not particularly sure why a heating system was necessary given Taiwan’s climate, but in addition to central heating, seventeen fireplaces were imported from Europe along with rugs, silk curtains, chandeliers and Victorian floor tiles to complete the redesign.   

Having experienced and enjoyed Moriyama’s work in a few of Taiwan’s other historic Japanese-era buildings, it’s easy to see why he was chosen to be the designer of so many of the colonial government’s most important construction projects. The legacy that he’s left here in Taiwan is one that we’re fortunately able to continue enjoying more than a century after he hopped on a boat and headed back to Japan.

Link: The helmsman who shaped the style of Taipei City (Shelley Shan / Taipei Times)

Interestingly, despite his love of European Baroque revivalist design, when Moriyama returned to Japan in 1921, he took on an assignment designing the ‘Imperial Pavilion’ at Shinjuku Gyo-en National Garden (新宿御苑 / しんじゅくぎょえん), dedicated to the Showa Emperor. The pavilion, which is now regarded as the “Taiwan Pavilion” was constructed using Taiwanese cypress and traditional red clay bricks, took inspiration from traditional Taiwanese architectural design, an obvious nod to his years here.

Visiting the Taipei Guest House (臺北賓館)

After more than a century, tours of the Taipei Guest House opened to the public in 2006, just after the building had finished being restored. Having entered an era of democratic openness and transparency, I imagine it’s only understandable that the government couldn’t very well justify spending so much money restoring a building that so few of the nation’s taxpayers would ever be able to enjoy.

Starting from June 4th, 2006, the Guest House was set to be open to the public on the first Sunday of even months, essentially making it available to the public six days a year. However, over the decade since tours started, the number of days that the building is available has slightly increased, but the availability of these tours depends on the annual schedule of events taking place within the building.

So, even though it is supposed to be open on certain weekends, depending on whether or not any state functions are taking place, you might end up being a little disappointed if you try to visit without checking beforehand.

Suffice to say, with Taiwan closing its borders during the COVID-19 pandemic, the building was open for tours more often than in previous years, but there is no indication as to whether or not this will become the norm in years to come as the world opens back up for tourism. Additionally, given the number of international policy makers finding their way to Taiwan as of late, it’s only understandable that the number of official events taking place at the mansion will increase, which means that the number of public tours will decline.

If you would like to visit the Guest House, it’s important that you pay close attention to the yearly calendar of openings on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs official website, which is linked below:

Link: Open House Schedule | 假日開放參觀

I caution you however that Taiwanese Government Websites are notorious for randomly disappearing, so if either of the links provided above aren’t working, I recommend heading over to Google and typing “Taipei Guest House” or “台北賓館” where you’ll likely find whatever new website they’ve started using in addition to the schedule of open houses for the year.

A tip that you may find helpful is that whenever the Guest House is officially open for public tours, the Presidential Office is as well, so if you’re feeling ambitious, you might be able to enjoy a tour of both buildings on the same day, although for someone like me, I’d find it far too difficult.

While touring the building, you’ll be able to walk around the open areas freely, but there are quite a few sections of the building, and the gardens, which are off-limits to guests. You’ll notice that there are volunteers watching at all times to make sure you don’t stray off into an area where you’re not welcome. Similarly, if you’re carrying a lot of photo gear, it’s important to remember that flash photography is prohibited within the building, and you’re also not permitted to use a tripod.

Interestingly, if you break any of the guidelines set for visits, it’s likely that you’ll be asked to leave immediately, which will also result in a two year ban - So try to be on your best behavior!

Getting There

 

Address: (臺北市中正區凱達格蘭大道1號)

GPS: 25.039810, 121.515870

Located within the heart of the governing district of the capital, the Taipei Guest House is situated a short distance from the Presidential Office (總統府), the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂), the East Gate (景福門) and the 228 Peace Memorial Park (二二八和平公園). Similarly, it is within walking distance of several of Taipei’s MRT stations, so getting there should be relatively straight forward.

While the Guest House is located closest to the NTU Hospital MRT Station (台大醫院捷運站), you could also elect to walk a short distance from either Taipei Main Station (台北車站), Ximen Station (西門捷運站) or Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Station (中正紀念堂捷運站). For most people however, the chance to visit the Guest House is one of those things where you won’t want to waste too much time on a walking tour of the capital, so your best option is to make your way directly to the NTU Hospital station and take either Exit 1 or Exit 2 where you’ll walk a short distance along Gongyuan Road (公園路) to the front gate on the corner of Gongyuan and Ketagalen Boulevard (凱達格蘭大道).

Bus

As far as I’m concerned, the MRT is probably your best method of getting to the Guest House, but there are quite a few people who swear by Taipei’s excellent public bus system, so if you’re one of them, you’re in luck as you are afforded a number of options in this respect given that it is located next to one of the city’s most important hospitals. You’ll find that there are a number of bus stops within walking distance, but I’m only going to provide the bus routes for the closest bus stop to save both myself and yourself some time.

NTU Hospital MRT Station Bus Stop (捷運台大醫院站): 2, 5, 18, 20, 37, 222, 241, 243, 245, 249, 251, 295, 513, 604, 621, 640, 644, 648, 651, 656670, 706, 835, 938  East 0, 信義幹線, 仁愛幹線

Click on any of the links above for the route map and real-time information for each of the buses. If you haven’t already, I recommend using the Taipei eBus website or downloading the “台北等公車” app to your phone, which will help you map out your trip.

Link: Bus Tracker (臺北等公車) - Apple | Android

Youbike

If you’ve decided to ride one of the city’s popular Youbike’s to the Guest House, you’re in luck as there are Youbike docking stations located near the NTU Hospital MRT Station exit, where you can dock your bike and then walk over to the Guest House. You can also find additional docking stations on either side of the East Gate as well as along the entrance to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall.

If you haven’t already, I highly recommend downloading the Youbike App to your phone so that you’ll have a better idea of the location where you’ll be able to find the closest docking station.

Links: Youbike - Apple / Android

The Taipei Guest House has hosted princes and princesses to presidents, prime ministers, etc. - As one of Taipei’s most important destinations for state functions, the stately mansion has played host to countless events over the past one hundred and twenty years, and will continue to serve an important role for marketing Taiwan to the rest of the world.

Now that we, the little people, are able to enjoy a taste of the Guest House, it’s become a pretty popular tourist destination, especially for domestic tourists. If you’re in Taiwan and you have the chance to visit, you should probably take the opportunity to enjoy a tour. It’s highly recommend however that anyone wanting to visit pay close attention to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (linked above), which provides the list of dates on the annual visitation schedule, so that you don’t miss out.

References

  1. Taipei Guest House | 台北賓館 (Wiki)

  2. Taipei Guest House | 台北賓館 (Ministry of Foreign Affairs / 外交部)

  3. Taipei Guest House (Digital Taiwan)

  4. 臺北賓館 (國家文化資產網)

  5. 台北賓館:不曾被遺忘的華麗建築 (公共電視台 異人的足跡)

  6. 國定古蹟台北賓館調查研究/原台灣總督官邸 (黃俊銘)

  7. Taiwan in Time: An extravagant colonial palace (Han Cheung / Taipei Times)

  8. Lafayette East Asia Image Collection (Historic Photos)


Taiwan Railway Museum (臺灣總督府鐵道部)

I’m a big fan of museums - and I think you should be too. 

Whenever I travel to a new country, I always make sure to reserve a bit of my time to check out a museum (or three), especially if it relates to the history of the place I’m visiting. 

That being said, you might have noticed that I don’t post much on here about museums. 

Why? Well, even though there are often some really cool displays, I don’t really see much value in taking photos in museums, at least for the purpose of this blog. This is also why you haven’t seen me write anything about (and probably never will) Taipei’s famed National Palace Museum.

Admittedly, I’ve likewise never really been all that impressed with Taiwan’s museums.

Most of the time I feel like museums here are a bit of a missed opportunity - It’s almost as if museum staff have some great ideas, but when they request funding, they only end up being allocated about a tenth of what they were asking for and then have to make due - which is sad to say, half-assed.

So, when I heard that the former Taihoku Railway Bureau was being reopened as the “Taiwan Railway Museum,” I wasn’t feeling all that optimistic.

But even if what was prepared for display in the museum wasn’t that impressive, I was still highly anticipating a visit as I’d finally get the chance to enter the beautiful Japanese-era building that I’ve passed by several times a week for well over a decade.

Fortunately for me, while the museum was still going through its soft-opening, I was invited to come check it out and get some photos. I don’t know how I get so lucky sometimes, but just like the Taipei Railway Workshop, I was honoured to be part of the first group of people who got to visit. 

And I’m pleased to say, my initial pessimism about the museum was way off. 

I might even go as far to say that this museum is probably one of the best in Taiwan. 

Not only are all of the displays well-researched, well-designed and offer multi-lingual explanations, they’re set up in a way that nothing is out of place.

The whole thing is a well-rounded and obviously a well-thought up exhibition about the nations railway history, which if you weren’t already aware was instrumental in developing Taiwan into the beautiful country that we enjoy today.

Oh, and if you’ve got a camera, the museum is housed within one of the capital’s most iconic buildings, and is great for photography!

The Taihoku Railway Bureau (鐵道部) 

Before we talk about the museum, it’s important to talk about the iconic building that houses it.

The “Railway Department of the Governor General of Taiwan” (台灣總督府交通局鐵道部), a National Historic Site, which is better known as the “Taihoku Railway Bureau” (鐵道部), was an administration centre for the management and operation of Taiwan’s railways during the Japanese Colonial Era and for several decades after.

Located a short distance from Taipei Station and the North Gate (北門), the Railway Bureau dates back well over a century and the buildings within the complex occupy a piece of land that has considerable historic significance. 

It probably goes without saying that the Taipei of a century ago was considerably different than what we’re used to today - The narrow stretch of land between the Keelung River and where Taipei Station is located today has been an important location for the development of Taiwan’s railroad since the late 1800s.

The first iteration of the ‘Taipei Station’ opened in 1891 in ‘Twatutia’ (大稻埕), which we refer to as Dadaocheng today, when the rudimentary railway between Keelung and Taipei opened for service.

Prior to the Japanese takeover of Taiwan, the Qing constructed a rudimentary railway factory just west of where the Railway Bureau stands today, which was used to do maintenance on the track constructed between the port of Keelung and Taipei in addition to taking care of the trains.

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan a few short years later, the site was utilized by the army for a short time as a munitions depot before it was handed over to the railway department. 

When the Japanese arrived in Taiwan, not much time was wasted on getting to work on the development of an island-wide network of railways. So when construction was nearing completion on the northern Taipei-Tamsui line, the workshop had to be expanded and modernized.

So, in 1909, the factory was relocated to a new building nearby and renamed the “Taipei Railway Factory.” 

The original buildings at the Qing factory were later torn down and the land was converted into a community of dormitories for civil servants - some of which still exist today! 

As progress on the construction of a a network of railways around the island continued, it also became necessary for the colonial government to relocate the administrative section of the railway bureau to a new headquarters in order to manage the day-to-day operations of the railway as well as ensuring that construction on the various rail lines went smoothly.

Given the importance of the railway for Japan’s ambitions for Taiwan, the office that was constructed for the Railway Bureau would have to be something grand.

Thus, the responsibility for its design was given to Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助), the architectural genius who was responsible for many of Taiwan’s most famous buildings, including the the Taipei Prefectural Office (台北州廳), Taichung Prefectural Office (台中州廳), Tainan Prefectural Office (台南州廳), the Monopoly Bureau (專賣局) and the Government-General of Taiwan (台灣總督府), which is currently known as the Presidential Office Building (總統府). 

Link: The helmsmen who shaped the style of Taipei City (Taipei Times) 

Coincidentally, the Taiwan Railway Bureau and the Government-General of Taiwan building just so happened to be inaugurated on the same day (March 31st, 1919) and afterwards Moriyama commented: “My work here is done!” (台灣已經沒有什麼可做的了) and he left Taiwan a year later with a long list of accomplishments.

I thought it was a bit strange that both the Railway Bureau and the Government-General of Taiwan building (currently Presidential Building) opened on the same day, so I decided to do some research on the subject.

The Japanese never really do anything at random, so there had to be a reason - whether it was a holiday or an anniversary - that they inaugurated both of these important buildings on the same day. 

Unfortunately after several hours of digging, the only thing I could find that related to “March 31st” was the end of the so-called military government (軍政) and the start of civil governance almost two decades prior. The thing is that the final day was “3/31” and the first day was “4/1”, which probably meant that I hadn’t found the right answer. 

So, I enlisted the help of a local history guru who I’m happy to call a friend who did some searching for me.

After a few hours he got back to me and said he was having difficultly, so he left a message with one of the research heads at the National Taiwan Museum who got back to him and answered: It’s because March 31st marked the traditional end of the fiscal year in Japan.

This is what I get for overthinking things. 

When the Railway Bureau opened for operations in 1919, construction on the building was only completed the north wing and the front facade of the building when they started to move in.

It would take another year until the south wing was completed and over the next few decades, several additional buildings constructed on the site, which eventually totalled around forty.

You might be wondering how this was possible given the lack of space on the site.

It was all thanks to the relocation of the Taipei Railway Workshop (which is also now a protected property) to a new location, freeing up quite a bit of space. The railway workshop at one time featured prominently on the site of the Railway Bureau, but as the decades passed and the railway network continued to expand, it became apparent that the workshop was far too small to perform all of the duties required to maintain the trains.

So, a much larger one had to be constructed and was officially opened in 1935 on the fortieth anniversary of Japanese Colonial Rule in Taiwan, which also coincided with the opening of the Taiwan Exposition, which was a huge year in Taiwan in terms of events.

Unfortunately, in the midst of all the development that was taking place here in Taiwan, the Japanese Empire found itself involved in a little something called the Second World War as one of the major instigators.

And we all know how that went for them.

When the Japanese surrendered to the allies at the conclusion of the war, they were forced to relinquish control over the territories that they had conquered, including Taiwan. This left the question as to what would happen to the island and who would control it. 

Ambiguously, the allies decided that control of Taiwan would be offered up to yet another foreign power, the Republic of China, which itself was in the midst of a bitter civil war against the communists. 

In 1945, when the Chinese Nationalists formally took control of Taiwan, the Railway Bureau became the new headquarters for the Taiwan Railways Administration (臺灣鐵路管理局), which quickly got to work repairing the parts of the track that were destroyed during the war. This helped to ensure that the government could maintain control of the island as well as taking advantage of the economy that the Japanese developed. 

The Taipei Railway Bureau continued to serve as the headquarters of the Taiwan Railways Administration from the late 1940s until 1990, when it moved to its new home within the upper floors of the newly constructed Taipei Railway Station.

In the 90s, the Taiwanese government wasn’t as keen on historical preservation as it is these days, so when the TRA moved out, it was left abandoned for quite some time.

Soon after the move, the interior became a setting in renowned Taiwanese director Edward Yang’s (楊德昌) film, “A Brighter Summer Day” (牯嶺街少年殺人事件).

After that though, not much happened at the Railway Bureau until construction on the Beimen MRT Station project started and a large portion of the forty buildings on site started disappearing. 

As a result, in 2009, the Railway Bureau was certified as a National Historical Monument (國定古蹟) by the Ministry of Culture (文化部) and plans were made to restore the remaining ten buildings into a public space.

The restoration project on the buildings started in 2014 and would take several years to complete with the Taiwan Railway Museum officially opening to the public to much fanfare in 2020, during the height of the global COVID-19 pandemic.   

Timeline of Important Dates for the Railway Bureau

  • 1887 - Plans for the first railroad in Taiwan are started by governor Liu Mingchuan (劉銘傳). 

  • 1891 - Construction on the railway between Keelung and Taipei is completed. 

  • 1893 - Construction on the railway between Taipei and Hsinchu is completed. 

  • 1895 - The Japanese take control of Taiwan. 

  • 1901 - The Railway Bureau, a sub-department of the Governor Generals office is formed.

  • 1901 - The first branch line (Taipei - Tamsui) of the railroad is completed. 

  • 1908 - A proposal is made to relocate the original workshop and the railway bureau to a new site nearby. 

  • 1909 - The Taipei Railway Workshop is relocated east of its original location. 

  • 1918 - Construction on the new headquarters for the Railway Bureau starts. 

  • 1919.3.31 - Phase one of construction is completed on the facade and north wing. 

  • 1919.5.28 - Railway Bureau employees start to move into the offices. 

  • 1920 - The south wing of the building is completed. 

  • 1933 - Construction of the cafeteria attachment to the Administration building is completed. 

  • 1934 - The Engineering Buildings are added to the site.

  • 1935 - The Taipei Railway Workshop (台北機廠) is relocated to its current location.

  • 1940-1945 - The railways are repeatedly bombed by the Allies.

  • 1945 - Taiwan is ceded to the Republic of China (中華民國).

  • 1948 - The Taiwan Railways Administration (台灣鐵路管理局) is established with the Railway Bureau as its headquarters. 

  • 1979 - The West Coast Rail is fully electrified. 

  • 1989 - Rail lines in Taipei are moved underground in preparation for the new Taipei Railway Station. 

  • 1990 - The new Taipei Train Station opens and the Railway Bureau building is left abandoned.

  • 2000 - The Yilan line is fully electrified. 

  • 2006 - Construction on the Beimen MRT station takes place and several buildings are demolished and the former Taipei Workshop building was temporarily relocated. 

  • 2009 - The site of the Railway Bureau becomes a protected property with plans to restore it.

  • 2014 - The restoration project on the site commences with ten of the original forty buildings being restored after the rest were demolished during the construction of the MRT. 

  • 2020 - The Railway Bureau opens to the public as the Taiwan Railway Museum. 

Now that we have a lot of that history stuff out of the way, let’s talk a bit about each of the individual buildings that still exist today as part of the National Taiwan Museum Taipei Railway Bureau.

Administration Headquarters (廳舍)

While there are several historic buildings on site, let’s face it, the Administration Building (廳舍) is always going to be the one that attracts the most attention.

Not only is it the largest and most important building with regard to the history of the Railway Bureau, it was masterfully designed and is one of those iconic Taipei buildings that people have enjoyed for generations. 

Now that it has reopened to the public as a National Museum, it has attracted quite a bit of attention as people are finally able to enjoy the interior as much as they’ve enjoyed the exterior. 

The arc-shaped Administration building sits directly across from Taipei’s North Gate on the corner of Chung-Hsiao West Road (忠孝西路) and Yanping North Road (延平北路) with the front door facing another one of Taipei’s historic buildings, the Beimen Post Office (北門郵局). 

As mentioned above, the building was designed by famed architect Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助), and construction was completed in two phases with the first phase completed on March 31st, 1919 and the second phase a year later. 

The two storey building consists of a beautiful front hall with a north and south wing running parallel to each other on either side.

Taking inspiration from English baroque, better known as Queen Anne style architecture (安妮女王復興樣式), the building is strongly characterized by its bilateral symmetry.

The lower half of the building was constructed using red bricks as a foundation, while the upper half was constructed with Alishan Cypress (阿里山檜木) in a style known as “half-timber framing” (半木構造), inspired by European architectural design, but with Japanese characteristics, of course.

Something you’ll want to take note of before entering the building is how the building curves from the front hall that faces the road.

The two towers that connect the north and south wings to the front hall were constructed at an angle, a classic baroque architectural trick that allows the building to take its arc shape.

Where the Japanese architects of that time excelled (with regard to baroque-style architecture) is easily noticeable with the of the roof, which is also a mixture of Western and Japanese-design characteristics.

In baroque design, a sense of ‘flowing movement’ is important and when it comes to this roof, it is expertly arched over both the south and north wings which meets with the front hall, which has its own arched roof facing the road, giving off somewhat of a 3D motion effect. Some might argue that the design here is ostentatious, but that was the point of baroque.

Adding to the design on the exterior, the roof is also home to ox-tail windows on both the front and back side of the building. While these windows perform their role of allowing natural light into the building quite well, the key thing to note here that the shape of windows on the front and back are shaped differently, with those on the backside being much more impressive.

That being said, credit needs to be given to the architect and the construction teams as construction of ox-tail windows like these is quite difficult, so even though they might just seem like windows protruding from the roof, you should take some time to check them out. 

The main office on the second floor of the Main Hall features a beautiful veranda, while both of the wings have long two-meter wide passageways at the front and back of the the first and second floors, where people could get of the office for some fresh air.

However, as the ground level of the building was constructed with brick and the top level with cypress, there are some practical differences between the two. The veranda on the ground level features beautiful brick arches which help to support the floor above while the second level has pillars which in turn assist in supporting the weight of the roof.

As you enter the foyer of the building you are met with a large open greeting space and a beautiful set of stairs that reaches around on the left and right side, a classic European-style design that is almost unheard of in Taiwan today.

There are halls both to the left and the right of the stairs that take you to where the various offices of the railway bureau once existed. 

When you reach the end of either of the hallways, you’ll find another large open stairwell on either end that bring you up to the second floor. The stairwell is spacious and there are large windows on both sides that allow for beautiful natural light to come in.

As you make your way to the second floor, you’re going to notice a noticeable difference in the design from the first floor.

The second floor was home to offices like the floor below, but the size of some of them is considerably larger. Likewise, there is much more attention to detail in the design as the ceilings and walls are decorated with plaster sculptures, which have been beautifully restored.

If you look closely at the designs on the sculptures, you’ll clearly notice Taiwan-related imagery inside.

The room you’ll want to pay most attention to however is the main office directly in the middle of the building, opposite the grand staircase.

This room is probably one of the single most beautiful spaces I’ve seen in Taiwan and the intricate ceiling and porcelain decorations are an amazing look into the past and the commitment to attention to detail that is a hallmark of Japanese design.

Amazingly, the total cost of construction for the Administration Building cost a mere 377,000 yen, which is about $3,500 USD!

Sounds like a steal, right?

Actually no, we have to consider several factors, including inflation and the decimation of the Japanese currency after the Second World War to figure out the real cost in todays dollars. 

Don’t worry, I’ve gone ahead and figured that out for you. 

The real cost to construct the building in today’s dollars would have been about $1,626,232 USD.

Still, not too bad all things considering. 

The Octagon (八角樓)

So there’s this beautiful concrete building on site, to the rear of the main building called “The Octagon” and that sounds pretty cool, right?

Kind of like the Pentagon in America. 

Well, actually, it’s just an ostentatiously-designed male washroom.  

But even though it’s just a washroom, you can be sure that almost every person who visits the Railway Museum is going to go check it out.

Why? Well, it was opened simultaneously with the main building, which means that it also dates back to 1919, making it one of the first washrooms in Taiwan with modern plumbing. 

Due to the fact that the staff at the Railway Bureau were predominately male, the washroom caters to their needs with an octagonal-shaped column of urinals in the centre of the building.

There are also four stalls set up with toilets and to the right and left of the front entrance with each of the other six sides of the octagon open to the elements for venting.

The building was constructed with reinforced concrete, has stone slabs for the roof and features modern style plumbing and septic tanks behind each toilet for cleanliness.

Constructed in a classical style, the design of the building imitates the stone masonry techniques of Europe and even though its just a staff washroom, it’s obvious that a lot of thought was put into making the experience of relieving yourself a grand occasion.

Today the urinals and toilets have been removed from the building and it has been cleaned up, with the walls given a fresh coat of paint.

You don’t have to worry about the stink of a men’s washroom when you walk into the building but you’ll definitely be able to appreciate the architectural design of the building. 

Canteen (食堂) 

The Canteen, or the Cafeteria building is connected directly to the Administration Hall and as you might very well have noticed from the photos here, is very much different than the rest of the building.

Constructed in 1932 as an addition to the main building, the cafeteria is a two-storey western-style building constructed of cypress and metal bracketing.

The strange thing is that while we know that architect Moriyama Matsunosuke (森山松之助) designed the Administration Building, no one really cared to take credit for the construction of the cafeteria.

Likewise, the materials used for the construction of the building were interestingly collected from scraps of wood used for other buildings around the capital.

An early attempt at recycling?

In actuality, this was very likely due to the fact that the colonial government was over-reaching with so many construction projects around Taiwan and was strapped for cash. 

Despite all of that, the interior of the building is beautiful and, like most buildings constructed with Taiwanese cypress, it shines in the sunlight.

Currently the ground level floor is used by the museum as a gift shop while the second floor is home to an exhibition space. 

Wartime Command Center (防空洞)

The Wartime Command Center is an underground bunker that was constructed during the latter stages of the war in 1943.

The Japanese constructed bunkers like these all over Taiwan in order to offer air-raid protection for civil-servants and the military. Considering the strategic importance of the railway with regard to Japan’s ambitions in Taiwan, having a bunker on-site only made sense. 

Constructed with reinforced concrete, there are two different sections to the bunker - the upper section is about seven meters above the ground and constructed in a cone shape.

The lower underground section is large enough to fit dozens of people and the interior has a large railway map of Taiwan on the wall which features the various rail lines, stations and bridges constructed by that time. 

Unfortunately the lower section of the bunker is still in the process of being restored, so its not open to the public as of yet.

I’ll update in the future when it becomes available and I can get in to get some photos. 

Electricity Building (電源室)

The Electricity Building, located to the rear of the Administration Building was originally constructed in 1925, but has been reconstructed and expanded on several occasions over the years. 

The building is a single-story brick structure with an arched wooden truss roof that was especially equipped to allow for the ventilation of heat to ensure safety.

When the building was later expanded, designers were forced to curve the new section due to a lack of space - The interesting thing about this is that the curve of the building somewhat mimics the shape of the Administration Building, which wasn’t entirely intentional, but cool nevertheless. 

The electricity generated in the building was used to assist in power generation and storage for the usage of the construction buildings nearby, which required more electricity than the grid at the time was able to provide. 

Today the building has been cleaned up, all of the equipment removed and is now a pretty cool place to sit down and enjoy one of the Taiwan Railway’s iconic Railway Lunchboxes (鐵路便當) in a cafeteria-like setting. 

Construction Buildings (工務室)

The two “construction” buildings were constructed to the rear of the Administration Building’s southern wing and are located directly next to Yanping North Road. 

Constructed in 1934 in the Japanese style, both of the buildings are about 44 meters in length with windows covering almost 80% of the walls, stressing an importance for natural interior light.

Constructed almost entirely of wood, the buildings were brilliantly elevated off of the ground with an ‘anti-termite foundation’ that helped to protect and preserve the buildings.

There is currently an interesting display in one of the buildings about how the Japanese had to quickly adapt to the problem of termites upon arrival in Taiwan and how the buildings on-site are a product of lessons learned.

The buildings were constructed just as the Taipei Railway Workshop was making its move to an off-site location (between Taipei and Songshan) and were used by the engineers employed at the Railway Bureau to coordinate the various construction projects that would take place around the island, as well as ensuring that operations at the nearby Taipei Railway Workshop went smoothly. 

Today the engineering buildings are used as exhibition spaces with one focusing on the restoration of the railway bureau while the other is a space where children can go to learn more about the railway in an interactive and fun way. 

There is also another set of green buildings that have yet to be fully restored, so in the future it’s likely that they’ll be open to the public in some capacity.

Railway Museum (鐵道部園區)

A replication of the interior of the historic Beimen Station (北門車站)

The Railway Bureau is currently open to the public and is under the ownership and control of the National Taiwan Museum (國立臺灣博物館), which has various exhibition spaces around Taipei. 

The interior of the building features exhibitions and displays historic objects and memorabilia related to the history of the railway in Taiwan.

The museum is pretty much a paradise for anyone who enjoys learning about Taiwan’s modern development - or those who just love trains. 

The former offices within the building are now home to exhibition spaces, which will continue to grow as the restoration process on some of the other buildings on the site is on-going. 

Historic train seats on the rear balcony of the building basking in the afternoon sun.

So, even though I was able to visit the museum during its soft-opening, it most certainly won’t be my last. 

Link: Railway Department Park (National Taiwan Museum)  

Currently the museum features a number of exhibits covering a wide variety of subjects and even though the majority of exhibition space covers the history of the railroad in Taiwan, there are also some other interesting exhibits deserving of your attention.

When you visit the museum, you’ll be treated with some of the following exhibits (in no specific order):

  • The history of the railway from 1887 - 2020.

  • A model of the historic Beimen Station.

  • A mockup of the inner office space and tools of a train station

  • Interactive maps of the development of the railway network.

  • Displays of the various types of trains used throughout history.

  • Displays of discontinued trains and the presidents former train.

  • Spaces for children to learn about the railway in a fun way.

  • The history of the Railway Bureau building.

  • Exhibitions about the Restoration of the Railway Bureau

  • A giant and extremely detailed model railroad of Taipei.

  • Exhibition about the 1935 Taiwan Exposition.

  • Exhibition about the Taiwan Railway Hotel.

Modern exhibit in a century-old building.

This obviously is an incomplete list as some of the exhibitions are permanent while others will constantly be changing in order to keep things fresh. My first visit during the soft-opening and my second visit several months later were quite different experiences with some of the exhibits becoming more refined while others had already been completely removed and replaced.

The great thing about this space is that there are a long list of possibilities when it comes to new and interesting exhibitions about Taiwan’s railway network and thus far they’ve only scratched the surface, which is what makes this museum an exciting one as it continues to grow into one of the most important places to learn about Taiwan’s modern history in Taipei.

One thing that most certainly won’t be replaced is the expertly detailed model railway of Taipei, which you should most definitely check out. The model train show takes place twice an hour and is one of the things that any visitor to the museum absolutely has to check out.

Hours

Tuesday - Sunday from 9:30 - 5:00.

  1. Closed on Mondays

  2. Closed during the Lunar New Year holidays 

  3. Closed on National Holidays

Admission 

  • Railway Bureau: NT$100 (Adult) | NT$50 (Children/Seniors)

  • Museum Pass: NT$130 (Adult) | NT$65 (Children/Seniors) 

Notes about Admission Prices

  1. The price of admission for children is limited to those aged 6-12.

  2. Children under the age of six are free.  

  3. During the week, anyone over the age of 65 is free. On the weekends, tickets are half price. 

  4. The Museum Pass is a discounted ticket that gives access to the National Taiwan Museum, the Natural History Branch, Nansen Branch and the Railway Bureau.

  5. The ticket booth closes thirty minutes before the museum closes.

  6. The price of admission can be paid with cash, credit card and EasyCard (悠遊卡)

Waiting for the model train to arrive

Something that is important to remember about the Railway Bureau Museum is that restoration projects are still underway and there are still a few areas that are yet to be completed and opened to the public.

Over the next year or two, the museum will continue to expand with the original Taipei Railway Workshop slated to reopen relatively soon.

As the newer buildings open, I’ll make sure to update this article with more information. 

Getting There

 

So, how is one to get to the Taiwan Railway Museum? 

This is probably one of the easiest ‘Getting There’ sections I’ve ever written. 

The museum is located in the North Gate (Beimen) area of Taipei and is a short walk from either the Taipei Railway Station, Taoyuan Airport Metro Station, Beimen MRT Station or the Taipei Underground Mall (台北地下街). 

  • From Taipei Main Station: Exit the station from the “West Three” door (西三門) and walk west along the park or Chung-Hsiao West Road to arrive at the museum. 

  • From Beimen MRT Station: Exit 1, 2 or 3 more or less surround the back end of the museum. 

  • From Taipei Underground Mall: Exit Y24 or Y26, each of which are a two minute walk away. 

  • From Taoyuan Airport MRT: Exit 6 or 7, both of which are directly across the street. 

Exhibits on display from the Railway Bureau

The Taiwan Railway Museum kind of blew me away - Sure, you could argue that I’m an unbiased critic as I’m somewhat predisposed to enjoying any historic building from the Japanese era, but there’s much more going on here than just the historic building.

The museum and the exhibits on display are pretty much candy for any Taiwanese history buff and the well-thought out displays are easily enjoyed by people of all ages. 

As I’ve already mentioned, I’ve never really been this impressed by a museum in Taiwan before, and no, I’m not being paid to say that.

I think all of this is likely is a reflection of the fact that the National Taiwan Museum did an extremely professional job restoring the building while also collecting all of the historic objects that have been put on display. 

If you have a chance to visit, I highly recommend spending some time at this museum.

A view of the modern city from the perspective of one of its oldest residents.

Likewise, as I mentioned above, in the coming months I’ll be updating this space with photos from some of the areas that have yet to be opened to the public and I’ll also be adding more articles about the Railway Bureau in Hualien, which has also become a pretty cool spot to hang out and learn about the history of the Railway in Taiwan!

Footnotes

  1. Railway Division of Taiwan Governor-General’s Bureau of Transportation (Ministry of Culture)

  2. Railway Department Park (National Taiwan Museum)

  3. Ministry launches Railway Bureau (Taipei Times)

  4. Railway Park in Taipei Opens to Public (Taipei Times)

  5. A Living Museum of Trains (Taiwan Panorama)

  6. 台博鐵道部園區6日開幕 重現百年古蹟建築 (CNA)

  7. 臺灣總督府交通局鐵道部 (Wiki)

  8. 鐵道部之空間變遷與建築特色 (國立臺灣博物館)

  9. 臺博館鐵道部園區新揭幕!歷經16年修復,走入百年古蹟群,動態模型、鐵道文史展一次看 (Shopping Design)

  10. 抵達軌道運輸第一站,回味「鐵道部園區」百年歷史 (遠見)