Japanese Colonial Era

Dong'An Bridge (東安古橋)

Social Media has the power to turn obscure, little-known places into an overnight hotspots - I’ve blogged a few times recently about how social media trends have transformed places like Jinmian Mountain and Water Buffalo Valley (which were once not very well-known by the general public) into tourist hotspots overnight thanks to the power of social media and a news media that more or less just looks to what’s happening online for its nightly news.

Today’s post is yet another one of these “instagrammable” hotspots and is one that I’ve likely passed by a hundred times, yet never actually realized that it existed until it became one of these ‘insta-spots’

Thanks to Instagram though, I’ve found yet another leftover remnant of the Japanese Colonial Era and while it isn’t a building like some of the other places I’ve been searching for, it is quite a nice place to take photos. 

The current version of Guanxi Township’s (關西鎮) Dong-An Bridge (東安古橋) is a beautiful stone arched bridge that dates back to 1933 (昭和8年) and has survived over eight decades thanks to the superb construction techniques and design brought to Taiwan from Japan.

The stone bridge that we see today replaced the original wooden version named “Cai-Feng Bridge” (彩鳳橋) which was constructed only a few years earlier. The original bridge had to be torn down after six years of use due to structural issues that were caused by Taiwan’s humidity, the rainy season and frequent earthquakes and typhoons.

Upon completion, the new bridge served as an important connection between the downtown area of Guanxi Village with the Dong’An (東安) suburb across the river as well as the mountains nearby which made transporting fresh produce and timber into the business areas of the town much more convenient.

Guanxi Village, which was known as Kansai (關西街) during the Japanese Colonial-Era is most well known for its production of a medicinal herb of the mint family known as Chinese Mesona (仙草) which is quite popular in Asia. The herb, which is most commonly referred to as “Grass Jelly” in Taiwan helped to bring riches to the Guanxi area. With the help of modern production techniques, and of course the new bridge, the small village became known as the ‘Grass Jelly Capital of Taiwan’ and still contributes to over 80% of Taiwan’s Grass Jelly production today.

Design

Dong’An Bridge is classified as a stone arch bridge, which is a type of bridge design that has been popular around the world for well over three-thousand years.

The bridge has five different arches that allow water from the river below to flow freely while at the same time allowing weight to be freely distributed between each of the five abutments as well as the support structure on either side of the bridge.

Japanese engineers are well-versed in the construction of arched bridges of this variety and as was the case with the beautiful wooden Kintai Bridge (錦帯橋) in Japan, the engineers who constructed the Dong’An bridge were also sure to protect it from floods by controlling the flow of water through the river which could overflow during a typhoon of Taiwan’s rainy season.

Recent Popularity

There are a few different factors that went into adding to the popularity of the bridge over recent years. The first is that the the Guanxi village government recently completed a beautiful recreation park known as the Niulanhe Riverside Park (牛欄河親水公園) that the bridge is now a part of.

The park is a popular space for local people to spend time with their families as well as for exercising and is also a spot where you will often find local artists and musicians putting on live performances.

The next factor and the one that likely started the whole Instagram thing is that the bridge was featured in a scene in the hit 2015 movie, “Our Times” (我的少女時代) - a cute movie that I had initially avoided watching, but eventually succumbed to and enjoyed while doing research for this blog.

Since then, the bridge has become not only a popular place for locals to pass by while doing their exercises or visiting the park, but also an attraction for people coming out of town who want to get some photos of the historic structure.

If you find yourself in the Guanxi area, it is quite easy to stop by this bridge and you need very little time to check it out. There is actually quite of bit of history to check out in the small village of Guanxi, so if you are in the area you might also want to consider checking out some of the old Japanese-era buildings, the Old Street, Chau-Yin Temple and some of the amazing Hakka restaurants in the town area.

Overall a quick walk around the downtown won’t take you very long, so you won’t need a lot of time to visit, but if you’re like myself and you’re interested in history, then a walk around the village will be one where you’re able to learn quite a bit while also sampling not only some great Hakka food but also the cuisines of South East Asians who have made the small village their own.


Map / Location

 

Hsinchu Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭)

For the past year I’ve made it a bit of a personal project to search out, photograph and document the history of some of the remnants of Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era. In that time I’ve visited most of the remaining Martial Arts Halls, Shinto Shrines, some old dormitories and former communities.

One of the things that I’ve learned through all of this is that in the seventy years since the end of the occupation period (and even throughout Taiwan’s massive development), you’re still able to find evidence of the Japanese Colonial Era in almost every city and small village throughout this country - So its best to always keep your eyes open when you’re travelling around because you’re bound to find something interesting!

Although I’ve visited quite a few of the various buildings of cultural and religious influence left over from the Japanese Colonial Era, the place I’m posting about today is something completely new to me and is something I’ve yet to come across in my search for Colonial Era relics.

Of all the different types of buildings I’ve found so far I find it hard to believe that I’ve never actually ever wondered why I hadn’t yet found a restaurant. I guess the reason for this is because every where you go in Taiwan you're likely to find a multitude of Japanese restaurants that faithfully cover and pay respect to every region and style of Japanese cuisine. It never occurred to me that there might actually still be some traditional restaurants still in existence.

Ryōtei (料亭) 

Despite having so many great options for Japanese food in Taiwan, one type of restaurant that you’re not likely to find these days is a traditional Ryōtei (料亭), one of Japan's most traditional and luxurious dining experiences.

In Japanese, the word Ryōtei comes from the shortened word “ryōri” (りょうり/料理) which refers to cuisine and the word “tei” (亭) refers to a “pavilion” or an elegant residence. Basically a Ryōtei is a luxurious restaurant where guests dine in private rooms and are served by waitresses wearing kimono. Patrons in a Ryōtei are served a traditional set multi-course menu known as “kaiseki-ryōri” (懐石料理) that is known not only for its great taste but the great artistic care that is taken to prepare it.

In some cases a visit to a Ryōtei also includes the company of geisha who act as hostesses and provide live entertainment to the guests.

Traditionally, Ryōtei’s only accept new customers by referral and have the reputation as being exclusive “members-only” type places. This practice has changed in modern times but the restaurants are still a favourite among high-level businessmen and politicians who visit to have discreet meetings where they are able to woo prospective clients or to seal an important deal.

While preparing to write this blog I did a bit of research about Ryōtei in Taiwan during the Japanese Colonial Era but there wasn’t much information about their history available online. What I did find however is that there is one in Tainan City that has been restored and opened to the public as a museum of sorts and then another in Hsinchu City which has also been restored but thus far is not yet open to the public.

Hsinchu Park (新竹公園) is home to not only the historic Hsinchu Zoo, the Hsinchu Confucius Temple and the Hsinchu Glass Museum but also the beautiful Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭) which I'll be introducing today.

The Lakeside Ryōtei, built on the banks of Li Lake (麗池) originally consisted of five separate buildings that varied in size. Visiting the restaurant would have been a complete experience that included the tranquility of the lake but also a beautifully designed park-like atmosphere with small foot bridges, lanterns and ponds with wildlife roaming the grounds.

Today you may not be able to enter the buildings (there are plans to open them in the future) or have one of the traditional meals inside but you can certainly enjoy the scenery as well as the various species of birds, turtles and fish which live in the lake area.

History / Design

Constructed in 1931 (昭和6年) and then expanded upon in 1935 (昭和10年) the restaurants were considered a 'garden-style recreation area' for the employees of Shinchiku Prefecture (新竹州) which consisted of modern-day Hsinchu, Taoyuan and Miaoli.

Each of the five buildings were constructed with traditional Japanese architecture using Taiwanese cypress (檜木) and have beautiful black tiled roofs. The buildings were elevated off of the ground using cement planks (in case of flooding) with traditional Japanese tatami floorboards. All of the buildings have a different design but the buildings that you will probably spend the most time looking at are the two that have windows on all four sides.

Taking into consideration that Hsinchu is well known historically for its glasswork (and the fact that Glass Museum is pretty much next door to these buildings) you shouldn’t be surprised that the glass displayed in these buildings is so spectacular. The craft work that went into their original construction as well as their restoration is quite amazing.

When the Colonial Era ended the buildings were left abandoned for a short time before being absorbed as part of the Air Force 8th Battalion’s nearby military village. The village known as the Air Force 11th Village (空中十一村) used the buildings as an elementary school as well as converting others into dormitories which were dubbed “Arhat Halls” (羅漢堂) in reference to the monk-like nature of the dorms which were set up to house single pilots who had no dependents.

Unfortunately as is the fate of almost all of Taiwan’s military villages, most of the people who lived in the Air Force 11th Village ultimately relocated and the buildings were left abandoned. In the late 1990’s one of the original buildings burnt down leaving only four remaining albeit in rough shape.

When the Hsinchu City Government made plans to convert a nearby Japanese-era building into the Hsinchu Glass Museum (新竹市立玻璃工藝博物館) local civic groups pushed for the Ryōtei buildings to also be restored and put to good use rather than allowing them to continue to rot.

The plans to restore these buildings and put them to good use is an ongoing one and while the public cannot currently enter the buildings yet, the city government has plans to complete their restoration and allow for them to once again be enjoyed by the people of Taiwan.

So far it seems like each of the buildings will have a different theme for exhibitions which will be organized under the auspices of the Glass Museum which will bring these beautiful buildings back to life.

Getting There

If you are relying on public transportation to get to the Hsinchu Park, you are in luck as it is quite close to the Hsinchu Train Station as well as the Bus Station.

If you are travelling by train just exit Hsinchu Station from the rear exit (後站) and from there either walk to the park or take a Youbike. The walk should be no more than five minutes but each time I’ve visited I’ve taken a bike as there is a bike station directly across from the park’s entrance. The directions to the park are clearly marked on the road in both Chinese and English so its not likely that you’ll get lost. 

While you’re visiting be sure to check out the various species of local birds as well as the turtles and fish which make their home in the beautiful lake. Make sure to walk around the historic park and check out some of the other interesting sights which include the Hsinchu Confucius Temple, the Glass Museum, the Hsinchu Zoo and the weekend flower market.

 

The Lakeside Ryōtei have a storied history dating back well over eight decades and during that time have served many different purposes. The future looks quite bright for these beautiful Japanese-style buildings. If you are a fan of Japanese architecture be sure to check out this peaceful park - especially during the early months of the year when the sakura blossoms are in full bloom which transports you from a small park in Hsinchu to something you’d expect to see in Japan!


Neihu Red House (內湖紅樓)

When tourists think of Taipei, I think its pretty safe to say that the city’s Neihu District (內湖區) isn’t really a place that attracts many of the city’s visitors. The district is most well-known for its technology park and its giant shopping centres rather than its cultural or tourist attractions.

Things are changing however and Neihu is quickly becoming one of the most attractive residential areas in the city with beautiful parks, great shopping and an excellent public transportation system that allows residents to get back and forth quite easily.

In the past a lot of these places were somewhat inaccessible to tourists visiting the country but now that Taipei’s MRT system runs through the district, the U-bike public bicycle share system is available and the public bus system has been refined, it is much easier for people wanting to visit some of the sights that are available.

Neihu has its fair share of beautiful parks for families to visit, mountains for hikers to climb, temples for the religious (and people like me who think they’re cool), historic buildings as well as great shopping, fine dining, small night markets and of course a giant Ferris wheel that gives great views of the city.

The Neihu Red House (內湖紅樓) which is conveniently located next to the Taipei MRT’s Wende Station (文德捷運站) is celebrating its one hundred year anniversary this year. Originally the home of Neihu Village’s mayor Kuo Hua-Jang, the building was designated a historical site in 1999 by the Taipei City Government.

 History

The Kuo family came to Taiwan in 1690 from China’s Fujian province. The family was quite well off which allowed for the family of merchants to turn into a family of scholars with several members taking the Imperial Examinations and achieving the rank of “scholar” (秀才).

One of those scholars was Kuo Hua-Jung (郭華讓) who in 1920 became the first official mayor of Neihu village (內湖庄) and served two successful terms. As mayor he was well known for his successful infrastructure projects which include the construction of bridges, roads and public water service.

As the Kuo’s were a family of accomplished scholars, they naturally built their residence next to a school (Today’s Neihu Senior High School) and in 1917 construction commenced on what we now call the "Neihu Red House" (內湖紅樓) but is otherwise known as the Neihu Kuo Family Ancestral Home (內湖郭氏古宅).

Today the Red House is known as the (Guo) Kuo Ziyi Memorial Hall (郭子儀紀念堂) and is dedicated to Kuo Ziyi (郭子儀), an ancestor of the Kuo family who lived lived between 697 and 781 and was known formally as Prince Zhongwu of Fenyuan (汾陽忠武王).

Kuo was an accomplished Tang Dynasty (唐朝) general who is most well-known for ending a rebellion and participating in expeditions on behalf of the emperor against the Uyghur’s and Tibetan’s. Once regarded as the most powerful general in the empire and was regarded as the person who single-handedly saved the Tang Dynasty from destruction.

Today the Neihu Red House has changed its role as a mansion to an ancestral shrine dedicated to one of the most influential members of the Kuo family. The main hall has a shrine dedicated to Kuo Ziyi and the rest of the building acts as a memorial hall for both Kuo Ziyi and his good friend, poet Li Bai (李白) featuring displays of his poetry and his calligraphy.

Design

Originally constructed in 1917, the two story south-facing red-brick home beautifully puts baroque architecture (巴洛克式風格) on display. As I’ve mentioned in several blogs already, especially those about the Daxi Old Street or Hukou Old Street, baroque is a style of architecture which was extremely popular with the wealthy of Taiwan over the last two centuries.

Baroque was an architectural style that originated in 16th Century Italy and spread throughout Europe and then eventually here into Asia through colonialism. The style is said to promote dynamism or a sense of motion with strong curves and beautifully sculpted decorations on the surface or the facades of buildings.

Here in Taiwan, Baroque was introduced in the early 19th century when the Japanese took control of the island and promoted modern construction techniques. The fusion-style architectural design was supposed to differentiate the buildings of the colonial era from those of the Southern-Chinese architectural style that was most common prior to their arrival.

Baroque design quickly became popular with the wealthy and higher educated members of Taiwanese society who preferred to build their homes and businesses with not only modern construction techniques but also the fusion of both Western and Eastern design which would have been considered great for their reputations around town.

Today there are still quite a few well-preserved buildings of baroque-origin throughout Taiwan - If historical design is one of your things you are certainly in luck when you visit as there are tourist streets full of this type of architecture in addition to buildings like the Presidential Palace which are all great examples of this style of design.

The 100 year old house is a 130-ping (426m²) two-story building with a courtyard area that is over 360-ping (1178m²). The exterior of the building is constructed entirely of red-brick with washed terrazzo and coloured tiles which were imported from Japan while the interior is made of beautiful Taiwanese cypress (檜木) that shines when the sun when the sun comes in through the windows.

The front facade of the building is where the baroque style is most prevalent. The windows on the front of the building are irregularly shaped with a curved balcony on the second floor, twelve beautifully designed tiles on the sides and two plaques on each side of the doorway.

The top gable of the building is where the design is the most beautiful with an ornamental western-style flower wreath wrapped around the Chinese characters “汾陽” (fenyang) and the date for which the building was constructed.

The gable is one of the most common characteristics of baroque design in Taiwan and the restoration project that restored the building did an excellent job paying homage to the original design of the gable which after a century is still protected by stone lions on the top.

Renovation

Despite receiving recognition from the Taipei City Government as Historic Property in 1999, the Red House remained abandoned and was in a dilapidated state until 2010 when the Kuo family got together and raised funds to restore the building. The family raised over $30 million NT to contribute to the project (1 million USD) and the Taipei City Government shelled out $10 million NT (300,000 USD) of its own to help restore the building.

With the funds in place to start the project the building underwent a year-long facelift under the watchful eye of a master craftsman who specialized in the restoration of historic properties - and who also happened to be a member of the Kuo family.

Before the restorations started the Red House was probably one of the coolest historic properties within Taipei city limits for Urban Explorers searching out abandoned buildings. Photos I’ve seen of the house before the restorations started make me really wish I knew about the house when I first arrived.

I would have loved to have seen it in its dilapidated state as the house was completely taken over by nature and almost faded into the mountain behind it as it had trees and brush growing all over it.

A year after the project started the building reopened to the public and was renamed the Guo Ziyi Memorial Hall as the family wanted to memorialize an influential ancestor. From the photos I’ve seen of the building before the project started, I’m actually quite surprised that it only took a year to complete. There was a lot of work to do and restoration projects of this size usually take a considerable amount of time here in Taiwan.

 Getting There

 

Visiting the historic Neihu Red House is extremely easy now that the Taipei MRT services the Neihu District of the city. Simply take the MRT to Wende Station (文德捷運站) on the Brown Wenhu Line (文湖線) and leave via Exit 1. Once you are outside the stairway to the house is almost next door. You can’t miss it.

The house is open to the public from 10am to 5pm everyday except for Mondays and entrance is free of charge.

As the Neihu Red House is currently celebrating its centennial, it is a great time to visit to enjoy a bit of Taiwanese history. If you’re into architecture, design or history you’ll really enjoy a visit to the building as the craftsmanship that went into its construction is quite amazing. You don’t need a whole lot of time to visit the building and it won’t take you very long to get there as it is an extremely convenient place to visit. If you’re in Neihu visiting the Moon Bridge or hiking one of the many mountains, you’ll probably want to stop by and check out this beautiful old building.