Landscape

Silver Grass (芒花)

Growing up in Canada, it was always really easy to tell when Autumn rolled around - Autumn meant that school had started, Thanksgiving was coming and Halloween was around the corner. Before I arrived in Taiwan I had never actually realized how popular Canada was as not only a travel destination, but a brand name as well. I had wrongly assumed that when people thought about my country that they would probably be scared away by our harsh winters - Surprisingly though, people always ask about the beautiful Autumn colours and how our iconic maple leaves all turn red before falling to the ground in winter.

Taiwanese people have a great respect for nature and people of all ages and walks of life enjoy the many different blooming seasons of Taiwan’s various kinds of flora (and fauna?) and just like in Canada, a sure fire way to know that Autumn has rolled around is to see the beautiful beige silver grass growing on the mountains, hills and along the side of the roads.

As I've mentioned before in posts about water liliestiger liliescherry blossoms, etc. Taiwan has a multitude of flowering species and throughout the year you will find different species growing throughout the country. To help me out a bit I purchased a (Chinese-language) book a few years back that introduces all the species of flowers blooming in Taiwan, when they bloom and where the best spots to view them are. The book has been an amazing tool during my travels because it has let me know when and where to go check something out when I'm planning my weekly or monthly schedules.

Silver grass or Miscanthus Sinensis is a species of flowering plant that is endemic to East Asia growing in Taiwan, Korea, Japan and China. In both Taiwan and Japan, the plant is widely respected and during the Autumn months (October - December) people will flock to see it covering the mountains and hillsides. Coincidentally in North America attitudes toward the plant are exactly the opposite and it is considered an invasive species and is usually destroyed. It's interesting that the so-called “weed” is reviled in one area and highly respected in another.

During the months of October to December you can pretty much see wild silver grass growing anywhere throughout the country. If you want to see a lot though, or you want to get some photos in a field full of it - you're going to have to do a bit of a hike as it grows more commonly on mountain tops. The most popular places to see silver grass in the north is along the historic Caoling Trail (草嶺古道) between New Taipei City and Yilan County as well as on Taipei city’s beautiful Yang Ming Mountain (陽明山)

I decided to do a bit of research in my handy book as to where would have the most silver grass and I found out that the western peak of Da Tun Mountain (大屯山西峰) was likely to have the most, but also an excellent view of Taipei city as well as Danshui and Bali. I figured it would be a perfect location to get shots of Taiwan’s Autumn flower and some landscape shots as well.

When I got to the top of the western peak I wasn't disappointed in the slightest as the view of the city was spectacular and there was more than enough of Taiwan’s Autumn flower to get some really nice shots. I'm quite pleased with what I got, but I'm going to have to go back to Datun mountain again in the next little while to finish the rest of the peaks so I can post about that too!

There isn't much information online in English about silver grass, but take my word for it, it's pretty cool to see Taiwan’s typically green mountain tops changing colours during Autumn and if you are in Taipei, just look towards Yang Ming mountain from any vantage point between now and December and you'll notice that it doesn't look like it usually does!

You've still got some time left for this years crop of silver grass. If you haven't seen it yet, a nice hike might be a good idea for a day trip on the weekend!

I see the coast! 


Dabao River (大豹溪)

Taiwan and neighbouring countries have the unfortunate luck of being prime destinations for pacific ocean typhoons during the summer months. When Typhoons strike we always breathe a collective sigh of relief in the aftermath that the mayhem wasn’t as bad as it could have been, and in most cases if we don’t lose electricity or water service we’re even happier. 

The country is an almost perfectly formed island with the Central Mountain Range (中央山脈) separating the east from the west with the mountains forming a natural barrier saving the most populous areas of the country from the worst effects of powerful Pacific ocean typhoons. 

What a lot of people fail to realize however is that when a typhoon attacks, it does a lot of damage to the mountains, rivers, hiking trails and roads in the area. For Indigenous villages, typhoons pose a great threat to not only the safety of their homes but also their livelihoods as well. For mountain and nature lovers like myself, the destruction in the mountains caused by these typhoons means that certain trails will be closed for long periods of time and the landscape in some cases can be changed completely. 

After shooting Manyueyuan (滿月圓) a few weeks back, I thought it would be a good idea to go to the popular Dabao river (大豹溪) and get some shots to share with people. The Dabao River forms in the park from a few water sources higher in the mountains but it flows all the way down into Sanxia. These days the river is a popular spot for escaping the heat of the summer as people will go and swim in the cool mountain streams. 

Typhoon Soudelor (蘇迪勒颱風) had its way with Taiwan the weekend after I visited Manyueyuan and it did considerable damage around the country (including my place losing power for over 52 hours) and pretty much shut down Manyueyuan for a few months due to the damage as well as washing out a lot of the roads in the area leading up to the park. 

Click here to learn more about Typhoon Soudelor and the damage it caused.

I thought that I'd wait a few weeks after the typhoon left for things to go back to normal before heading back up again to get some shots of the beautiful Dabao River. I love the drive from my place through Daxi and then into Sanxia and up into the mountains. Its a relaxing drive and once you get into the mountains the air feels so much better than it does while driving in the city. 

Unfortunately it seems I didn't wait long enough and the river was still reeling from the devastating effects of the typhoon. The roads up to Manyueyuan were still in really bad shape, some were completely washed out and others simply just disappeared and had some safety tape up letting motorists know they were about to drive off a cliff. 

The river was still full of dirt and sediment that washed down from the mountains and it turned the once clean and almost emerald green water a gross cloudy shade of green which pretty much stayed the same colour from the start of the river all the way down to the bottom. 

Qingshui Bridge (清水橋)

Bridge

In the areas where I got close enough to the river (a lot of places were off-limits due to the damage), the water looked really dirty and there was garbage strewn about making it look like it was just another polluted river rather than a beautiful mountain river with fresh, clean water for both swimming and drinking.

I did the best I could photo-wise to make the shots of the river look good, but honestly this is going to have to be a ‘to be continued’ sort of blog as I want to show the river in its fully glory when it gets back to normal.

What you're seeing today isn't indicative of the beauty of the Dabao River and I'm posting this to remind people that even though you got through the typhoon safely, there was still millions of dollars worth of damage done and in some places the landscape of this beautiful little island has been changed forever.  

Until next time. 


TUBA Church (基國派老教堂)

Note: As of September 2019, the Tuba Church is closed and a gate has been constructed to block access to the church for both the local indigenous community and tourists alike.

The period of closure is currently unknown due to a land dispute with the land owner holding the local community hostage for the price of $10,000,00NT.

Until the church reopens to the public, I’ll leave this notice here. If you are planning on visiting the area, make sure to check local news to see if it’s reopened or now.

How many tourist spots in Taiwan designated by the Ministry of Culture (文化部) as one of the ‘Top 100 Historical Spots’ in the country and are empty on a Sunday afternoon? How many of them are a western-style church? I'm not counting, but I think it is safe to say that this one might be the only one and despite what it lacks in size and panache, this little church in the mountains is pretty cool. 

The TUBA church (基國派老教堂) is a small church nestled in the mountains of Taoyuan county and was built by the Indigenous people living in the area as a place to worship. The church no longer holds services and a more modern and larger version has been built next to the original, yet the original church holds special meaning for the people living in the area and is a well-preserved historical building. 

It was was constructed by the Atayal people (泰雅族) in 1963 as a place for the people of the remote TUBA tribe (基國派) to worship. The tribe built the church with their own hands using stones that were carried one-by-one from the nearby Sanmin Batcave (三民蝙蝠洞.) 

The church was used between 1963 and 1992, but ultimately became too small for the growing population of the tribe.  After moving to the newer church, the original wasn’t used or maintained and fell into a bit of disarray. The community however realized the cultural value of the old church and decided to restore it to its original state. Today the church stands in its original spot and is celebrated as a monument to the preservation and cultivation of Atayal culture and history and is now recognized by the government as a national historical monument. 

If you find yourself between Daxi and Fuxing someday, turn left off the main road when you see the sign for the Sanmin Batcave and check out this old church nestled in the mountains. Its not very large and you don’t need much time to see it, but it really is quite remote as far as things go in Taiwan and the mountainous landscape around the church is quite nice.