Temples

Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺)

While doing research for my post about Taipei's most famous temple, Mengjia Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺). I came across an article that claimed that when the temple in Taipei was under attack during WW2, some of the statues from the temple were moved to the Daxi Longshan Temple for safekeeping.

I had immediately thought it was a bit strange because Longshan temple is one of Taiwan's most famous temples, but unlike a lot of Taoist temples, I had no idea that there were actually other branches throughout the country let alone one near where I live! 

With major Taoist and folk-religion temples, it is quite common to find temples with the same name - Temples such as the Tian-Hou (天后宮) temple, City God temple (城隍廟), and Confucius (孔廟) temples can be found in various cities throughout the country. Each temple varies a bit and usually has a place name in front which differentiates the temple from the others. For example: Taipei Confucius Temple and Hsinchu Confucius Temple are a few examples of the temples I've covered in the past that have the same name. The temple carries the same purpose, but typically vary in architecture and design. 

With a bit of research I was surprised not only to find out that there were several Longshan temple's throughout the country, but also the location of the one that I didn't know existed near my home in Daxi.  

Daxi (大溪) is a small village, but it is the home of a few famous temples as well as the popular old street which are all a short distance from each other. The Daxi Longshan temple is a bit far from all of that however and that is probably why I wasn't aware that it existed. 

The temple was originally built as "Longshan Temple" in 1868 but was destroyed a few years later by the Japanese in 1895 due to efforts by the colonial government to force Japanese culture upon the people of Taiwan. When the Japanese realized that it wasn't a very successful policy, they put a stop to it and the temple was rebuilt in the same location under a different name.

The temple was renamed Xiangyun temple (香雲俺) and stayed that way until 1981 when it was officially renamed to the Yongfu Longshan Temple (永福龍山寺) and became more commonly known as the Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺) as you may notice on the incense urn in the photo above. 

The temple, similar to Taipei's Longshan temple in that it is dedicated to the goddess Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) and other Buddhist deities. The shrines are much smaller in scale however and the temple is actually very simple in comparison to the Taipei version.  

The temple is actually quite nice but cannot really be compared to the much older (and more popular) version. If you search for information about it online, it seems like the temple is actually most well-known for the hiking path behind it. The path takes you up a mountain and gives pretty great views of the Daxi river valley.

The mountain turns white in early spring with Tong blossoms (油桐花) which are the Hakka version of cherry blossoms. The path is popular during early spring with people travelling from all over the country to come see the blossoms. (I'll have a post about Tong Blossoms from the mountain in a few days). 

The temple is nice to stop at for a short time - There isn't very much to see, but if you want to do an easy hike you can check out the temple for a short time and then take a hike up the path on the mountain. If you're in the area, check it out. It's rarely busy and the environment around it is quite nice!

If you have any questions, comments or criticism, don't be shy: Comment below or send an email through my contact section below!


Songshan Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

On one of the weekends after I first arrived in Taiwan, my friends and I decided to go check out the popular Rao-He night market. The first thing I noticed when we arrived was a huge temple near the entrance. Temples had interested me long before coming to Taiwan and even after a few weeks of being here I wasn't shy about going in to wander around and appreciate the craftsmanship that went into building them. 

I decided that the first thing I'd be doing on this little excursion would be exploring the temple before going to the night market. While walking around the temple's second floor I came across a statue acting as what we would normally consider a “knob” on a railing. It amazed me that even a simple railing could have an extremely detailed (and probably very expensive) "knob" like this. 

Same statue, new photo. 

Original point and shoot photo

The attention to detail amazed me, but the scene behind it with red lanterns and faint light in front got me thinking about (what I thought at the time) might be the perfect composition. All I had with me was a small point and shoot camera, but I knew how to control the settings well enough that I was able to get exactly what I was looking for. When I saw that I was able to achieve a specific result with the composition I wanted and was able to control the light in such a specific way it came to me that I might actually be somewhat skilled at this photography thing.

Its over a decade later now and I'm still working on and trying to improve in what I do - there's still a long way to go, that's for certain, but photography is a big part of my life and it has taken me to places that I might not have been to otherwise. For that, I guess I should thank Ciyou temple, which started me on this journey and is also the subject of today's blog:


The main facade of the temple. 

Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮) or the Songshan Mazu Temple (松山媽祖廟) as it is sometimes referred to is one of Taipei’s most important Mazu temples. It was built in 1753 on the banks of the Keelung River and is neighbours with the Rao-He night market (饒河夜市), the beautiful Rainbow Bridge (彩虹橋), Songshan train station and the newly completed Songshan MRT station making it a popular tourist attraction.

Legend has it that in the 1740s a Taoist monk was wandering around (what is now the Songshan district) carrying a statue of the Goddess Mazu. He eventually came upon a group of followers of Mazu and together they spent ten years collecting donations to build a proper place of worship.

In 1753 construction started on the temple and it was completed four years later in 1757. The temple served as an extremely important structure in the early days of development in Songshan in terms of religion and economics and it's safe to say that if the temple had been built elsewhere that the Songshan district we see today would be a much different one.

Mazu shrine

The temple is primarily dedicated to the (dark faced) goddess Mazu (天上聖母) otherwise known as the “Heavenly Mother” and covers an area of over 600 square meters. It has six floors of shrines with over a hundred different Taoist and Buddhist deities and also features a well-stocked library of Taoist, Buddhist and Chinese literature.

The main shrine room of the temple is quite large and is often full of people praying or performing religious rituals. The front of the Mazu shrine is closed off to the public and even though the statue of Matzu is quite large, it's not easy to see if there is a crowd. The closed off area of the shrine room is used by designated temple followers who will perform Taoist chanting ceremonies a few times a day and is a pretty cool thing to see if you're a tourist.

While the open space on the first floor is quite beautiful, I always prefer to go to the upper floors where there are less people and where you can get a bit closer to the shrines to enjoy the amazing craftsmanship that went into building the temple. I guarantee when you get to the top floor to the Jade Emperor’s shrine that your jaw will drop and your brain may experience a bit of sensory overload due to the amazing colours and all the small details which went into constructing such a spectacular shrine.

I'm going to do something that no other English blog has done and something that took me a long time to translate. The following is a list of all the gods and goddesses within the temple by floor, which I hope will give you a bit of an impression of just how large this temple is, as well as a reference for figuring out who all these gods are: 

  • 1st Floor (Main shrine) - Heavenly Mother Mazu (天上聖母), All-Seeing General (千里眼與順風耳), All-Hearing General (順風耳將軍)

  • 1st Floor (Side Rooms) - The Earth God (福德正神), Ksitigarbha Buddha (地藏菩薩), Ananda (阿難尊者), Maudgalyāyana (目連), Five Directional Camp Generals (五營神將), The Tiger General (虎爺), Kaishan Spirit Tablets (開山先靈神位),  Gongde Spirit Tablets (功德先賢祿位) 

  • 2nd Floor (Main shrine) - Doumu Goddess (斗姥元君), 60 Dukes of Jupiter (六十值年太歲星君), Lord Zuo Fu & Lord You Bi protectors (護法神左輔右弼大將)

  • 2nd Floor (Health shrine) - Goddess of Childbirth (註生娘娘), Twelve Nursing Goddesses (十二婆姐), Du Yuniang Midwife (杜玉娘夫人)

  • 3rd Floor (Buddhist shrine) -  Guanyin (Nanhai Guanyin 南海觀音 and Thousand Armed Guanyin 千手觀音), Sudhanakumâra (善財龍女), Mañjuśrī (文殊菩薩),  Samantabhadra (普賢菩薩), Skanda (韋馱菩薩),  Samghārāma (伽藍神), The Eighteen Arhats (十八羅漢), Maitreya Buddha (彌勒佛)

  • 4th Floor (Emperor Temple) -  Guan Yu (關聖帝君), Prince Guanping (關平太子), General Zhou Cang (周倉將軍), Lü Dongbin (孚佑帝君), The Kitchen God (灶君), Master Qingshui (清水祖師), Wenchang Emperor (文昌帝君), Great Master Kui (魁星), Narcissus King (水仙王), Doctor Baoyi (保儀大夫),  God King Guangze (廣澤尊王), The Five Battalion Commanders (五營神將)

  • 5th Floor (Three Pure Ones Temple) -  Three Pure Ones (三清道祖), Three Masters (Shakyamuni Buddha, Laozi, Confucius), The Great Emperor of the South Pole (南極長生大帝), The Great Emperor of the North Pole (北極紫微大帝), Marshal Ma (馬靈官), Marshall Zhao (趙元帥), Mother Earth Goddess (地母娘娘), Lord of the Sun (太陽星君), Lord of the Moon (太陰星君), Shennong Emperor (神農大帝)

  • 6th Floor (Roof Temple) - The Jade Emperor (玉皇大帝), Emperors of the Three Offices (三官大帝), Lord Emperor of Fire (火官大帝), Lord of the Little Dipper (南斗星君), Lord of the Big Dipper (北斗星君)

The temple is well known in Taiwan for the intricate design and attention to detail that went into its construction. There is also some amazing stone work, octagonal plafond ceilings and a roof that is so full of detail that it probably deserves a blog post of its own.

I spent a few hours translating all the names of the gods and goddesses in the temple. It's not really required reading, but I thought it would be a good idea to provide that information to people as it isn't readily available on the Internet in English.

Don't let the amount of gods and goddesses intimidate you and don't worry about strange religious people proselytizing to you. The people who work at the temple are quite helpful and enjoy it when tourists visit so if you're in the area, make sure to stop in and check out the temple.

Spend some time taking in the arts and craftsmanship that went into constructing it and make sure to get yourself all the way up to the sixth floor to see one of the most beautiful shrines in all of Taiwan!


Thousand-armed Guanyin (千手觀音)

A few weeks ago I went on a photowalk around Guandu (關渡) with some photographer friends and it led me back to Guandu Temple (關渡宮), one of my favourite temples in Taipei. I've already blogged about the temple before, so today being that it just so happens that it is Guanyin's birthday - I'm going to share a few photos of my favourite shrine in the temple and explain it a little bit as well as a funny experience that happened while at the temple.

The day of our photowalk it was forecast to rain, it had already rained for the entire of month of March and the weather was having a major effect on people's moods. Billy, the leader of the photowalk group thought about cancelling it the day before, but we all decided that we shouldn't let the weather get the best of us and we went anyway.

When we arrived at the temple, it hadn't started to rain, so I helped to lead people around the temple showing them the highlights and discussing random things about its construction. When we got to the Guanyin shrine, one of my favourite Buddhist shrines in all of Taiwan, one of the photowalkers asked me why there were two stone elephants guarding the door rather than the lions that most temples have. Truthfully I couldn't answer the question and I thought it was a bit strange myself as I had noticed earlier that they were designed in the Thai-style.

So instead of standing around and thinking about it, I walked into the shrine room and approached the attendant to ask her if she knew. She replied to me: "I don't understand your Chinese" (我聽不懂你的中文), so I repeated myself more slowly thinking that my Beijing accent and pace of speaking were too much for her.

After repeating my question in a very slow and clear manner she replied to me in broken Mandarin that she couldn't understand and asked if I could speak Taiwanese. I expect this kind of thing is common in the south of Taiwan, but in Taipei it's quite rare to find a local that can't speak Mandarin. 

She eventually found a young woman who could speak Taiwanese and I asked her the question and she translated it for me.

The reply was: "I've no idea, ask someone else." Mystery unsolved. 

The Guanyin shrine room at Guandu temple is one of my favourite for a few reasons - The first is because it is connected to a long cave which is inside of a mountain. The cave has murals along the walls telling different Buddhist stories. The shrine is at the end of the cave and there is a balcony that takes you out to the side of the mountain overlooking the Danshui river.

The shrine itself is of the Thousand-Armed Guanyin (千手觀音菩薩) and to me is expertly crafted and the lighting in the room makes it look amazing. I can see however that it might come across as scary to some (she's holding various weapons) but if you really understand the purpose and story behind this depiction you might really appreciate the beauty of it -  

The topic of "Guanyin" can be a bit confusing to some, because in countries that practice Buddhism, this specific "Buddha" is depicted in a lot of different ways and you might not ever know who you're looking at. The name "Guanyin" (觀自在) comes from the original"Avalokiteśvara" (སྤྱན་རས་གཟིགས་) who is referred to as the "Buddha of Compassion" and literally means "the lord who looks down on sound" (those who are suffering). The purpose of this specifc Buddha is to show compassion and remain on Earth and work to alleviate the suffering of human-kind. Today, it is said that the 'Buddha of Compassion' walks around in human form and is the nobel peace prize laureat known around the world as the Dalai Lama. 

As for the differentiation in iconography between different traditions, the best explanation is that over history, the Buddha of Compassion having returned so many times reappeared as a male and a female. This is why you will find that this specific Buddha appears in different forms in different countries and in some cases may even appear androgynous. Here in East Asia, Avalokiteśvara is typically depicted in the form of Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) and for Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean and Japanese Buddhists she is a popular figure of worship.

The story behind this specific statue of Guanyin comes from a popular Buddhist myth (南海觀音全撰) that tells of a conversation between Guanyin and Amitābha Buddha (阿彌陀佛) - two of the most important Buddhas - where the Buddha of Compassion complained about the never-ending mission that he/she was on. Despite all the hard work that was done over countless lifetimes, humans were still miserable and suffering. Amitābha hearing this transformed Guanyin's body into one with eleven heads (to hear the cries of humanity) and one thousand arms which would help to aid in helping to alleviate the suffering of humanity.

I'm neither a Buddhist, nor am I religious, but the story of the Thousand-Armed Avalokiteśvara stands out to me as a westerner for a few reasons. The first being that I come from a culture that believes in a God that demands worship, adoration and adherence to a set of rules. In the other case we have a god-like figure (Buddha's are not actually gods) whose entire purpose is to help humanity realize it's full potential and live a happy life free of suffering. To me they seem almost the polar opposite of each other - one demands adherence and love while the other asks for nothing and works tirelessly to improve your life. If I were looking a religion (I'm not, no knocks on my door please) I might actually lean more to the latter as it seems a bit more genuine. 

The next reason is that in Buddhism, gender is not an obstacle in attaining enlightenment or for becoming a Buddha. It does not matter to Buddhists if a female becomes one of the most prominent figures in the religion. I can appreciate a system of beliefs that does not limit a person's individual potential based solely on their gender or their sexuality. The world would be an infinitely better place today if women were given equal opportunity to include themselves and lead in all facets of life as well as in philosophical debates rather than the age-old system of patriarchy that has been in place. 

If you have a chance to visit Guandu temple, make sure to check out this shrine and take a few minutes to enjoy the craftsmanship that was put into constructing this giant statue. No matter what your opinion of religion, you have to appreciate the human intellect and skill that went into constructing it and that's basically the attitude I take with me when I visit temples with my camera in hand. I respect the human ingenuity, skill and care that was taken to make these giant museums of Taiwanese art.

If you have any questions, comments, or corrections, please feel free to comment below or send an email through the contact section.