Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來瀑布)

Xiao Wulai Waterfall from the start of the hiking trail

Xiao Wulai (小烏來) or "Little Wulai" is a scenic waterfall park in the mountains of Taoyuan (桃園) in Taiwan that features several large waterfalls, hiking paths, hot springs, and the opportunity to experience a bit of Taiwan's Indigenous culture. 

The area is often confused with the Wulai District (烏來區) of New Taipei City (新北市). The Wulai area in New Taipei City also has a giant waterfall, but its more well-known for its hot springs resort area where people like to go to enjoy a nice hot volcanic bath during the cold winter months. 

Both areas are inhabited predominately by the Atayal tribe (泰雅族) one of the largest of the Indigenous groups in Taiwan. In the Atayal language, both areas were known as “Ulay” (Kiluh-ulay) which referred to the volcanic hot springs found in each.

Coincidentally “Kiluh-Ulay” translated into English loosely means “Be careful, the water is hot.” (小心水很燙) 

When the Nationalist Government took control of the island, both areas names became known as “Wulai” (烏來) which was transliterated from the Atayal language into Mandarin.

Xiao Wulai likely became known as "Little Wulai" at the time because the waterfall in New Taipei City is much higher (but not nearly as beautiful as Xiao Wulai)  

I’ve usually visit the park at least once a year and have explored the area many times. Its not a short drive from where I live, but its a beautiful drive that takes you away from the noise, commotion and pollution of the city through the Daxi river valley and up into the Indigenous village of Fuxing (復興鄉) where the air is clean, the water is fresh and the pace of life is much slower. (And during the summer months, you can find peaches everywhere.) 

If you continue driving past the Xiao Wulai park the road eventually takes you across the Fuxing bridge up into Baling (巴陵) and across the famous Northern Cross Highway (北部橫貫公路) which is well known for its mountain views and ultimately brings to you back down into Yilan county (宜蘭縣) on the eastern coast of Taiwan. 

- The walking path to Xiao Wulai Waterfall's base.

Each time I’ve visited the park there have been constant noticeable changes. The county government has been investing a lot in the area over the years trying to make “Xiao Wulai” a popular tourist destination. I have to admit that my first few visits were the best when the area wasn’t developed very well. There was a simple hiking path that would take you to the base of the falls and other paths that would take you around the falls and behind it to the Dragon-Phoenix Waterfall (龍鳳瀑布).

During these earlier visits there was easy access to the the base of the falls, but for obvious safety reasons there are now barricades stopping people from getting too close (as it would be too dangerous to have a bunch of tourists trying to navigate around a bunch of wet rocks and a giant waterfall.) 

The good news for the majority of tourists is that the government has recently invested almost $8 million New Taiwan Dollars ($250,000 USD) into the construction of a skywalk that allows tourists to walk on a transparent glass floor that is very close to the top of the falls and 70 meters above the base. This was a major tourist attraction when it first opened and the lines were huge. I hadn't actually tried walking across the skywalk until my most recent visit and even then I wasn't particularly interested (which is why there are no pictures of it.)  

As an avid hiker and nature photographer, I’m not particularly interested in that kind of tourist trap and I’d much prefer to take the short and very easy one hour hike from the falls observatory down to the base and enjoy the mountain air and scenery away from the crowds. 

- Under the viewing bridge at the base of Xiao Wulai

Since the completion of the skywalk and due to its popularity, the majority of people visiting the park will make their way in that direction. The well-developed pathway to the base of the waterfalls is relatively empty - So once you arrive at the falls, if you are so inclined, it is easy to climb under the bridge and get a bit of a closer view of the falls.

You do need to exercise caution though. The river running from the base of the falls can flow quite quickly, especially during the rainy season and rocks are often wet from the rain and the constant mist, so its very easy to slip. You’re no where near a hospital and should anything serious happen, you’d be out of luck. 

The Xiao Wulai Waterfall is one of the biggest and said to be one of the most beautiful waterfalls in northern Taiwan. It is considered special because you can see it from close up and from a distance due its location in a clearing in the mountain.

There is a constant heavy flow of water from the waterfall during both the rainy season and the summer months so any time you visit you’ll have no problem enjoying the natural beauty of the area. 

From the base of the falls you can make your way back up to the trailhead or go back to take another path which will lead you around the mountain and ultimately behind the falls to where they are currently constructing a new pathway and observatory for the Dragon-Phoenix Waterfalls. (Often incorrectly named the Double-Dragon waterfalls) It wasn’t possible during this visit for me to get to see both layers of the Dragon and the Phoenix waterfalls because the top layer was closed due to construction.

- Xiao Wulai Waterfall from the base (小烏來瀑布)

The area around Wulai has developed quite a lot over the years and there are now restaurants, coffee shops and vendors selling food as well. There are new hotels opening in the village near the falls and you can also enjoy some swimming areas during the summer months.

If you do visit Xiao Wulai, you need to make sure to sample some Indigenous food which if you ask me, is probably one of the best styles of food found in Taiwan. The area is well known for its mushrooms, so be sure to try some deep-fried mushrooms, some wild boar, rice baked in a bamboo shoot and any of the awesome mountain vegetables that you won’t find on tables anywhere else in the country!

- Dragon Pheonix Waterfall (龍鳳瀑布)


Getting There

 

No. 3 National Highway (國道三號) -> Dasi Interchange (大溪交流道) -> Dasi (大溪) -> Fuxing (復興) -> No. 7 Provincial Highway (台7線) -> Xiayun Bridge (霞雲橋) -> Xiao Wulai Scenic Area (小烏來風景區)

By Scooter/Motorcycle

From Taoyuan (桃園) or Zhongli (中壢)make your way to Dasi (大溪) -> Fuxing (復興) -> No. 7 Provincial Highway (台7線) -> Xiayun Bridge (霞雲橋) -> Xiao Wulai Scenic Area (小烏來風景區)

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Xinzhuang Temple Street (新莊廟街)

A few weeks ago a fellow long-term Canadian expat author, blogger and a hiking friend of mine, Nick Kembel wrote a blog about Xinzhuang (新莊), the district of New Taipei City (新北市) that he has called home for the past six years and it interested me quite a bit. 

While I’ve driven through Xinzhuang a few times, I haven’t actually stopped to visit and to tell the truth I had never actually heard of the cultural attractions that Nick’s blog introduced. Being a lover of shooting Taiwanese temples and architecture I decided that a visit to Xinzhuang’s Temple Street (新莊廟街) was something I had to put high priority on when I had some free time. 

Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

I found time to visit last weekend and I decided that after taking care of some other stuff in Taipei, I would try to arrive around late afternoon and explore some of the temples and the back alleys before I lost sunlight. After which I would move on to the new New Moon Pedestrian Bridge (新月橋) and then make my way back to the Temple Street to experience the night market culture of the area as Nick's blog had suggested. 

A Taiwanese child making the most of her Temple Visit 

Getting there was pretty easy, it was about a 20 minute MRT ride from Taipei Main Station (台北車站) with a transfer at Minquan West Road Station (民權西路站) and from the #2 exit you make a right turn and walk about a hundred meters and you’re more or less at the entrance. 

Guangfu Temple (廣福廟)

The thing that initially surprised me about Temple Street (and something that I feel a bit ashamed that I didn’t know already) is that the street has three temples which one of which has been classified as a level two and the other two level three national historic sites in Taiwan. Becoming a national historic site isn’t an easy task, and the fact that there are three temples in such a small area that have all attained these statuses goes to show that Xinzhuang had a very vibrant and economically sound history as the temples were all built several hundred years ago during various eras of colonial rule of Taiwan.  

A Taiwanese man praying at an altar in Ciyou Temple (慈祐宮)

Apart from shooting inside the temples, I found that the street and the alleys around it were all great for street photography. If you’re a photographer in Taiwan I highly recommend an afternoon exploring the alleys in the area as there tends to be a lot going on subject-wise. There’s a lot of see and there is ample opportunity for street work. I would recommend arriving earlier in the day though, because in Taiwan older people usually go about their business in the mornings and leave the night markets to the younger generation. 

An elderly Taiwanese women in a back alley near Temple Street 

The newly opened New Moon Bridge (新月橋) is quite beautiful, its in the shape of a crescent moon and if you walk along it at night there are some buskers performing magic tricks or music for the people who are crossing the bridge to enjoy. At about 7:00pm the bridge will light up and at this time you’ll see a lot of photographers lined up with their tripods waiting for the light show. On the way back I walked across the a glass-floor section of the bridge where you could see the river below you. It was actually a bit scary - even for someone who isn’t afraid of heights like myself. It wasn't that I didn't trust Taiwanese engineering, I just worried about the safety of my camera. 

Xinzhuang's New Moon Pedestrian Bridge (新月橋) connecting Xinzhuang to Banqiao

On the way back from the bridge I noticed that things had started to pick up and there were a lot more people arriving at Temple Street for the night market. The night market here I felt was a bit ordinary as far as night markets go. Seasoned veterans in Taiwan typically know that each night market has its special dishes and things to see - the Temple Street Night Market however doesn’t really have any culinary specialties - its all very typical street food that you’ll find at every other night market in Taiwan. I didn’t eat anything while I was there partly because I was starting to come down with a bit of the flu and my stomach wasn’t feel very good and because of the current problems with oil and food safety in Taiwan. 

Temple Street Night Market

After making my way back to the night market, I walked the entire street again and when I was done I made my way back to the MRT through a back alley avoiding the crowds and hopped on the train back towards Taipei City. 

I really enjoyed visiting Temple Street and I plan on making my way back in the future. There is more for me to see, and the possibilities for street photography earlier in the day are a lot more interesting to me than the night market (and the bridge.) 

The area is much busier at night where you can enjoy lots of street food

If you find yourself looking for something to do on the weekend in Taipei and you want to avoid the throngs of Chinese tourists at all the other tourist spots, I highly recommend you make Xinzhuang’s Temple Street a priority to visit. Its not like some of the other very touristy and not so authentic ’old streets’ in Taiwan like Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街) or Yingge’s Pottery Street (鶯歌老街) yet you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the amount of history you’re able to experience while visiting this small area of Xinzhuang, an area of Taipei city that has only recently become extremely accessible due to the expansion of the MRT system. 


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