Travel

Lin An Tai Mansion (林安泰古厝)

A few months ago I wrote a blog titled “Taipei’s Mansions” which had photos from two of Northern Taiwan’s most famous historical and well-preserved mansions. When I posted the blog, I had expected an obvious question and a few friends didn't disappoint as they enquired why I hadn't included the Lin An Tai Historical House and Museum (林安泰古厝) with the other two.

The reason was simple, the other mansions are just as well-preserved as the Lin Mansion, but they are still in their original locations which I felt was the most important factor in their authenticity. Apart from that, the Lin mansion is much more popular with tour groups as well as photographers that I felt it didn't really need to be included.  

I felt that photos from this place were already quite overdone and cliché as it is so popular for photoshoots for people who want that “Asian” feeling but aren't willing to leave the confines of the Taipei MRT system. Whenever you show up, you will always run into some models in traditional clothing walking around the grounds with a bunch of photographers following behind them. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but personally I prefer to use locations in areas less travelled and less overdone if I'm doing that kind of thing. 

Wedding Photo Time!

I kept the Lin An Tai mansion in mind though as I know that photographically speaking, it is a pretty cool place with nice scenery and eventually introducing the grounds would fulfill the request from my friends to have all of Taipei’s traditional mansions covered. So here we are! 

As mentioned above, due to the expansion of some of Taipei’s major roads, the Lin An Tai mansion in its original location was faced with either destruction or relocation. By the 1970s the mansion had fallen into a bit of disarray and like most mansions of this sort, the original inhabitants had already vacated the premises for modern housing. The mansion wasn't being taken care of in the way it should have been and it has started to fall apart. 

Taipei is a city that tends to have little regard for tearing down the ‘old’ to make way for the ‘new’ but historians and civic activists argued that the mansion should be preserved and moved from its original location in Daan District (大安區) to a new location. 

Enjoying the scenery.

The city government agreed and started a massive relocation and renewal project moving the mansion across the city to the Binjiang park (濱江公園) which was large enough to house a home of its size and historical importance. The relocation project started in 1978 and lasted until 2000 when it was finally opened to the public. 

The house was originally built by Mr. Lin an immigrant from Fujian Provinces Anxi County who moved to Taiwan and operated a successful business here. 

The name of the mansion is interesting as it is named in part after the family, Anxi province and the name of the company the family owned. Today we have the Lin An Tai Mansion (林安泰古厝) which uses the characters “Lin” (林) the family’s surname, “An” (安) after Anxi County (安溪縣) in Fujian Province (福建省) and “Tai” (泰) after name of their successful company (榮泰行) 

I won't go into detail too much about the design of the mansion (My friend Carrie explains in much more detail and much better than I could) but what I will say is that the house was originally designed with Feng Shui (風水) being the most important factor in its construction.

Hello Little Bird.

Since the mansion has moved from its original location, things have changed according to Feng Shui, but the ‘natural’ elements of a home still remain which means you will still find courtyards filled with nature, a pond filled with lotus blossoms and several shaded rest areas where the owners can enjoy the natural environment from the comfort of their home.

Feng Shui stresses a relationship with the natural environment in order to create more positive energy and even though the mansion has moved from its original location, you still get a pretty positive vibe from hanging out at the mansion. 

The mansion is situated a short walk from the Yuanshan MRT station (圓山捷運站) and if you are visiting Taipei, I recommend spending a bit of time in the area as it has this mansion, the Flora Expo park and Taipei’s Confucius Temple (台北孔廟) and Bao-An Temple (保安宮) all within a short distance of one another and can be covered over a few hours in the afternoon before moving on to Shilin Nightmarket (士林夜市) in the evening.

The Lin Tai An Mansion is definitely worth a visit and if you are only in Taipei for a short time and want to visit a place that seems more “Asian” than what you'll find elsewhere in a modern city like Taipei - you'll be pleased with this place as it is a really well preserved monument to a time that Taipei city has more or less forgotten!  

Website


Fulong Sand Sculpture Art Festival

I decided to push this post ahead of the others I have waiting to be published as this weekend will be a big one at Fulong Beach on the North East Coast of Taiwan with summer in full swing as well as having both the Fulong Sand Sculpture Art Festival (福隆國際沙雕藝術季) and Fulong Full On (福隆海灘派對) happening at the same time. 

With it being a July weekend and having two summer festivals happening simultaneously at the beach you can imagine there will be large crowds of people. If you are making plans to get yourself to Fulong for the festivities make sure you get on the train or the bus early so that you're sure to get yourself there. 

The 2015 Fulong Sand Sculpture Art Festival (福隆國際沙雕藝術季) has been on since May 12th and will finish up on July 12th. The event is held annually at Fulong Beach and features beautifully designed sand sculptures artists created by artists from around the world.

The theme for the Sand Sculpture festival this year is "Toy Nations" and 27 artists from 13 countries were invited to take part in the event designing sand sculptures from their childhood memories. 

Considering most of the artists are likely my age they have designed sculptures with Lego characters, remote control cars, teddy bears, robots, toy soldiers and the Monopoly board game as well as some traditional Taiwanese sculptures.  

The sculptures are large, beautifully designed and quite impressive to someone like myself who has no idea about the art form. I've seen ice sculptures in Carnaval de Québec and at the Harbin Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival (哈爾濱國際雪節) which are also quite impressive, but it seems to me that it'd be a bit more annoying to design a sculpture with sand than it would be with a block of ice. 

The best thing about the Sand Sculpture Festival is that when you are done checking out the sculptures you can enjoy the beautiful beach. Fulong is probably the best beach in Northern Taiwan and it is easily accessible by train as the Fulong Train Station (福隆車站) is across the street from the beach parking lot. 

Sand Sculpture Art Festival Website

Fulong Full On (福隆海灘派對) is an all day event taking place on Saturday July 4th starting at 12:00pm. The event is being organized by Taipei Trends and will feature water balloon tosses, relay races and sand sculpture competitions, etc. with food, drinks, live music and DJs. 

The purpose of the party is to promote beach culture, get people outdoors and to network with each other in order to bring together the community of expats in Taiwan as well as our Taiwanese friends. 

For more information about the event check out the event page linked below or read the article from the Taipei Times which describes it in greater detail. 

Fulong Full On Event Page

If you are looking for something to do this weekend, why not take a trip to Fulong and enjoy the beach and the two events that are taking place? I won't be there personally as my skin is about as red as a cooked lobster from hanging out at the beach all day earlier this week. I hope if you go though that you have a lot of fun and meet some new friends! 

For more info about how to get to Fulong and what buses and trains are available check the Fulong Full On event page on Facebook where they have done an excellent job preparing information about getting yourself to the beach. 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots) 

Papa's Secret Lover (阿爸の情人)

This post is for all of you who have come and gone, those of you still here and especially for those of you thinking of coming back!  

Today I want to talk about a restaurant near where I live that holds a special place in not only my heart, but all the great people who have come and gone over the years. 

If you're one of the lucky people who have spent a year or more here in Taiwan and have had the chance of visiting this place, I hope some of these shots I'm sharing will bring back some great memories and a bit of nostalgia about your life in Taiwan. 

For the rest of you, I'm about to introduce a legendary restaurant here in Zhongli - one that is held in extremely high esteem by both Taiwanese and foreigner alike!  

Papa’s Secret Lover (阿爸的情人) or "Ah Ba" is a Hakka-style restaurant in Zhongli (中壢) near the traditional market in the old part of town. The restaurant looks like it has been open for decades, it is actually hard to tell how long it has been open, but for as long as anyone can remember, Papa's has been a constant fixture of life here.  

Papa's can be busy at times, but if you are one of the many who have made Papa's part of your going-away celebrations before leaving Taiwan, you probably don't have to make reservations and they will gladly take care of the forty of fifty people you have showing up - even though there might not be seats for everyone. 

國父您好~ Sun Yet Sen must be hungry watching everyone eat. 

The décor of the restaurant is best described as a 'blast from the past' and whenever someone new walks into the restaurant they likely feel as if they just walked out of a time machine! 

Every thing you see on the walls has historical relevance and are probably all from the early to middle 1900s. There is no real order to the way things are displayed and a lot of the picture frames seem to be crooked or falling off the wall. 

There are portraits of both Sun Yat Sen (孫中山) and Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) on walls opposing each other and they seem to be staring each other down. Having these portraits there is quite telling of the history that the Taiwanese people have endured over the last 60 years. 

Apart from portraits of political figures, the walls are full of wedding photos - of who know one really knows - and old movie posters and advertisements. There are posters of long-forgotten celebrities from 1960s-1970s Taiwanese pop-culture. 

My favourite piece on the wall is the old painted cigarette advertisements with the modern-looking ladies in Qipao's - something straight out of Shanghai in the 1920s. 

Fresh Tea

Peanuts to start

The tables and stools always kind of feel like they're going to fall apart, but truthfully the only time I've ever seen a broken chair in that places is one of the newer plastic stools the boss bought.

The wooden tables and chairs have obviously been loyal soldiers to the owners of the restaurant and they are probably all older than I am! 

The music playing in the restaurant has been exactly the same for as long as I've been in Taiwan and without fail every time you visit, you will hear the same songs over and over again. I actually have no idea how they haven't worn out the CD or whatever it is they use to play it

The music is likely a compilation of Taiwanese-language oldies and despite not understanding any of the words, most foreigners who have been going to the restaurant can sing the lyrics by heart after they've had a few Taiwan beers. 

The atmosphere, although extremely cool in the restaurant isn't what keeps people coming back though. The food is the main reason why everyone returns time and time again.

To give an example of how awesome the food is, I've heard stories several times of people showing up to Papa's a few hours before a flight and getting some food to go in a dish for a friend back home who used to live in Taiwan. Even if the food is cold and transported across continents, it is still amazing. 

You're not likely to find Hakka cuisine as good as what you'll find at Papa's and the dishes are so consistent that they taste exactly the same today as they did when I first showed up ten years ago. They don't mess with perfection. 

Everyone has their favourite dish but as far as I'm concerned, after travelling all over Asia, I can easily say that I've never had fried tofu as awesome as what you get at Papa's and it is on the table in front of me each and every time I visit.

Other people may not agree, but the great thing about Papa's is that there aren't any dishes that aren't awesome, so when you go with friends people will always share their favourites. 

I've introduced quite a few Taiwanese friends to the restaurant and it is always a bit hilarious to see their reaction as I take them through the front door. Most of them want to turn away thinking that it is the entrance to someones home or that it is too old and dirty to actually be a restaurant. 

On anyone's first visit to the restaurant they usually sit there with wide eyes in awe of the whole experience – When the food comes out however, they immediately fall in love. The food is always described to me as 「古早味」which is best described as old-style home cooking with flavours that are not as common today as they used to be. 

Foreigners don't really appreciate the old-style flavours as much as Taiwanese people do, but what we can appreciate is that the food is amazing and the restaurant has been the site of a lot of great times and good memories over the years. 

If you haven't tried Papa’s Secret Lover yet, make sure to get yourself over here to Taoyuan to have some great food in one of the strangest restaurants you'll ever experience! 

If you're back home in North America looking at these photos, I hope they bring back some fond memories of your time in Taiwan! 

Cheers! (乾杯!)

Address: 中壢市中山路401號二樓  

2F #401 Zhongshan Rd. Zhongli City.  


- Food Shots from my iPhone - 

Kung-Pao Chicken (宮保雞丁)

Deep Fried Tofu (炸豆腐)

Ginger Intestines (薑絲大腸)

Spicy Oysters and Tofu (蔭豆辣蚵)

Papa's Stir Fry (阿爸炒)

Beef with Pickled Vegetables (酸菜牛肉)

Sweet and Sour Spareribs (糖醋排骨) 

Ginger Beef (薑絲牛肉) 

Stir Fried Clams (炒蛤仔)