Travel

Laotoubai Hakka Cuisine (老頭擺客家餐廳)

Taipei has some of the hippest, stylish restaurants that you'll find anywhere in the world. Wherever you go in the city, you will be overwhelmed by the design of some of the restaurants and when it comes to food, Taiwan is extremely well-versed in the culinary arts. We are also lucky to have Food bloggers like the Hungry Girl's Guide to Taipei who do an excellent job of introducing new places and keeping us up to date on what the new trends in dining are in the city!  

When modern design is what you are used to, it can sometimes be a bit strange to walk into a restaurant like Laotoubai (老頭擺客家餐廳) here in Taoyuan and not feel a sense of awe as you will be dining in a home that is over one hundred years old and certainly spares no effort not to look it! 

One of the Dining Rooms. 

As far as the food goes, Laotoubai is your typical Hakka-style restaurant which serves up all the traditional dishes you would expect. Their take on Ginger Intestines (薑絲大腸) and Salty Pork (鹹豬肉) are the best I've had (I live in a predominately Hakka area) and their fresh River Shrimp (炸溪哥) are taken from the river next to the restaurant!

The food is only one reason why this restaurant is so awesome though and actually isn't the reason why I'm posting an article about a restaurant on a photography blog. The house, which seems to be a mansion is the former residence of Hakka farmers and is a large traditional three-section house (三合院) which still features a lot of the old furniture and decorations the original inhabitants would have used.

A large family having dinner in the main dining room with a rice tiller outside. 

Each of the dining rooms in the restaurant has something cool and of historical value to see including traditional beds, old dressers, mirrors, wall paintings, scrolls, record players, farming hats and antique tools such as a rice tiller.

The restaurant is great for exploring and they don't waste time with plaques to explain everything like a museum does.

While I was walking around taking photos, a few parents were also walking around with their children explaining what all the antiques were used for which was teaching a valuable lesson of Taiwan's history that they probably wouldn't have gotten in any textbooks. 

Dining room with a bed! 

A dining room in what was once a living room. 

I've been to this restaurant several times over the years and it has always been one of my favourite in the area I live in - While it can be busy, it isn't similar to those in Taipei as you won't likely need to make reservations (unless you need one of the larger dining rooms.)

In summer, I prefer sitting outside in the courtyard on the picnic tables to enjoy the weather. If you choose to sit outside, they have a few tamed chickens that walk around keeping you company! 

Whether you're looking for great food or dining in a place where you can learn a bit about the past, this restaurant is a great example of both - and also proves that you don't have to shell out wads of cash for the hippest interior designer in town to attract business! 

It also provides excellent light and is appealing to the eye of a photographer! 


Food Shots from my iPhone

I don't take food shots with my camera, but I'm not above taking some with my iPhone - Here are some shots of the food I had the night I visited. As mentioned above, my favourites were the Salty Pork and the Ginger Intestines! Hakka Cuisine is one of the best to be sampled in Taiwan and if you are in the country you should definitely give it a try! 

烤鹹豬肉 - BBQ'd Salty Pork

薑絲大腸 - Ginger Intestines

梅干扣肉- Braised Pork with Stewed Vegetables

蔥爆牛肉 - Stir-Fried Beef with Shallots

客家小炒 - Hakka Stir Fry


How to get there: 

Address/地址: 325 桃園縣龍潭鄉中正路三坑段546號 / #546 Chung-Cheng Road (Sankeng Section) Longtan Village, Taoyuan County.

Telephone: +886 3-4711359 / Website (Chinese Only)


Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢)

There are mass plots of empty land somewhere in the deserts of Arizona called "boneyards" where retired jetliners go to be recycled when their time is up. If you've ever seen a picture of these airplane graveyards, they are massive and can almost be described as beautiful despite the fact that they are lined up in order to become nothing more than scrap metal. 

Cihu (慈湖) which translates as "benevolent lake" is a serene lakeside property near Daxi (大溪) in Taoyuan county that has assumed the unfortunate responsibility of becoming a "boneyard" of sorts. 

This particular boneyard however is dedicated to Generalissimo and former President of the Republic of China - Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) and the statues that he (like every other dictator before and after him) had fashioned in his image. 

The nicest part of the park? 

When Chiang died In 1975, it was his wish that his body be interned at this site until such a time that Republic of China forces could take back China by force and reinstitute his version of democratic rule over the oppressed people of Red China.

The Daxi river valley area was always an area that the Chiang family was fond of, and both Chiang Kai-Shek and his son Chiang Ching-Kuo (蔣經國) are interned within the village which has become known as a "town of presidents.

Due to Chiang's wishes to return, his body was not prepared in traditional Chinese fashion and was thus placed in a black marble sarcophagus meant to preserve his body until it could be buried in his hometown in Zhejiang Province (浙江省). 

His body has lain in state at Cihu for over forty years and the dream that the Chinese Nationalist Party (中國國民黨) could ever be able to retake the “motherland” has become an impossibility. 

The people of Taiwan have instead forged ahead with their own national identity while the party he helped to create grovels for scraps at the feet of the Communist leadership in China. 

What Chiang was unable to foresee before his death was that Taiwan would develop into a thriving multi-party democracy and that the peace-loving people of this country would completely disregard his dream of taking back China from the Communists. Post CKS-Taiwan has forged ahead with mass development making Taiwan one of the most advanced nations in the world with a population that freely exercises its right to democracy, free speech and liberty. 

When free and open elections took place after the era of Martial Law was lifted, Chiang's KMT soon ousted in the first regime change in Taiwan in over half a century with the people of the country demanding change. 

Part of that change to put it simply was to deal responsibly with Chiang's legacy - Chiang and his regime were guilty of horrendous crimes committed against the Taiwanese people and despite efforts to develop the country, his legacy will always be a contentious one especially for those who lived through those terrible years known as the "White Terror" (白色恐怖) period. 

Chinese Tourists confused as to why they're at the park.

In all there are over 43,000 bronze statues of Chiang Kai Shek (蔣公銅像) littered throughout Taiwan found in front of schools, parks, military bases and government buildings.

Despite a strong desire to have them removed, until now now only several hundred have been moved to Cihu. Moving the statues has become an issue almost as contentious as the man himself as supporters show up to cause a fuss whenever a statue is scheduled to be removed. 

When the KMT retook the presidency in 2008, efforts to remove the statues came to a standstill and those that hadn't been already removed were pretty much left were they were.

This inaction and lack of recognition by the KMT to their past crimes has led to issues of vandalism with remaining statues being beheaded, spray painted and otherwise smashed to bits by people angry with the government or those had their lives adversely affected by the KMT or Chiang Kai Shek.

A kind old man?

A defeated General?

These days the park has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, especially for those tourists coming from China. Tour buses full of people are carted to the countryside and unloaded at the park to experience a bit of modern "Chinese" history. It’s all a bit surreal. 

For Chinese tourists, visiting the park is a lesson in history for a figure they both loathe and respect. They can learn about one of the principle figures in the history of the Sino-Japanese war and the latter Chinese Civil War which in their view "divided" China. 

While visiting the park, I observed quite a few of the Chinese tourists who seemed like they were generally bored and confused as to why they were wasting their time at the mausoleum. I’m sure they’d much rather be back in Taipei shopping. 

An empty shell of a man? (Wounds and Regeneration Statue) 

For locals, visiting the park seems to be great for a weekend escape to a scenic location where they can enjoy a bit of nature. There are of course people who visit the mausoleum, especially on anniversaries of his birthday and his death, who want to pay respect to a man whom they view as a great leader and an important historical figure. 

No matter what side of the fence you are on when it comes to Chiang's legacy, the park is a learning experience for the history of modern Taiwan and China from the 1900s onward.  

The Resting Place of Chiang Kai Shek

The mausoleum is situated a short walk from the park in a beautiful Chinese-style house that was designed to look like Chiang Kai Shek's former home in China. Chiang's body lies in state in the main greeting hall of the building and is guarded at all times by the honour guard of the Republic of China military.

The mausoleum is a stark contrast to that of Mao Ze Dong's (毛澤東) in China which is kind of eerie - Chiang's marble sarcophagus doesn't display his body and the room is quite simple with only a few ROC flags, a portrait and a Christian cross in front of where the body lies rather than the grandiose mausoleum for Mao in Beijing.  

If you want to visit the mausoleum, it is requested that you respect the dead and bow to the former president, or at least show respect in your own way.

I showed my respect by not taking pictures of his sarcophagus and the room he lies in - I'm sure quite a few tourists have snapped some shots of the marble coffin and the room he resides in, but I didn't feel comfortable doing that.  

If you are in Taoyuan and you can't think of anything else to do, send me a message and I'll give you some suggestions for places to visit.

If you can't reach me, you can always stop by Cihu and waste an hour or so. 



Devastating Earthquake in Nepal

I took these two shots at Patan's Durbar Square in October 2011.

They were taken in an area which was once part of the Royal Palace where kings and queens resided over 400 years ago. It has been recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site and is regarded as the first Buddhist city in the world. 

As of today, it ceased to exist.

This earthquake was devastating not only to modern infrastructure and the remnants of Nepal’s unique history, but the people, who are some of the best I’ve ever had the luck to encounter.

I’m heartbroken for the people of Nepal. This is an extremely sad day and I’m afraid that its only going to get worse. My thoughts are with everyone there.


An Amazing People - Keep them in your Thoughts - 

Source: http://www.goteamjosh.com