Taoyuan

Taoyuan Confucius Temple (桃園孔廟)

The Confucius Temple in Taoyuan is one of the newest temples dedicated to the sage in Taiwan and while it may not have the history as the temple in Taipei, Tainan or Hsinchu, it does offer a pretty great balance in terms of beauty and the natural environment that surrounds it.

This is probably my favourite Confucius temple in Taiwan and I don't say that just because I live in Taoyuan, I say it because of the size of the temple, the beautiful colours, the open space and of course the natural environment that surrounds it.

With this post I'm not going to go into as much detail as I did with my post about the Taipei Confucius Temple as the this one isn't as significant historically to Taiwan, but I will take bits and pieces from the post about Taipei's temple to explain some of the aspects of this temple that are similar to other Confucius temples found throughout Taiwan.

For a bit of history though, the Taoyuan Confucius Temple was constructed in 1989 and like other Confucius Temples it consists of a Dacheng Hall (大成殿), Dacheng Gate (大成門), Lingxing Gate (櫺星門) and a Chongsheng Hall (崇聖祠). The temple follows the same strict zen-like simplicity that you see in other temples but for me this one stands apart in the beautiful reds that are on the pillars and around the temple.

The key difference between this temple and other temples found throughout Taiwan though is that this is only Confucius Temple that has a statue of the sage himself. Since the Ming-Dynasty it has been tradition for temples dedicated to the memory of Confucius to only have spirit-tablets (神位) within the confines of the temple.

This temple splits from tradition and while the statue of Confucius isn't in the main shrine room I was quite surprised while walking along the side halls and seeing a giant statue of the sage looking right at me.

If you haven't read my previous blog about the Taipei Confucius Temple, I'm just going to explain briefly below the different parts of the temple and what is their purpose:

Dacheng Hall (大成殿)

Dacheng Hall is the main shrine area of any Confucius temple. The hall, which is known in English as the "Hall of Great Achievement" sits in the architectural centre of the entire complex and is also in the middle of a large granite courtyard. Inside the hall is a very simple set up with the Confucius spirit tablet set up on a nicely decorated table.

The table in the Taoyuan temple is quite a bit more ornate than other temples but pretty much remains similar to all of the other Confucius temples in Taiwan. There are an additional two shrines in the room found upon the west and east side walls and are dedicated to the four sages (四配) Yan Hui (顏子), Zengzi (曾子), Zisi (子思子) and Mencius (孟子) who were Confucius scholars and authored books which continued the philosophy.

Lingxing Gate (欞星門)

The Lingxing Gate acts as the main entrance to the temple - It's a necessary part of any Confucius temple and symbolizes Confucianism's 'willingness to accept anyone with talent and virtue'. The gate at the Taoyuan temple is much different than what you see at the Taipei temple and despite a different set of colours it looks like a gate that you'd likely see in front of any large temple in Taiwan. The gate sits directly beside the road and welcomes people in a grand way to visit the temple. While standing under the gate make sure to look up and enjoy the beautiful detail on the 'roof' part of the gate.  

Chongsheng Shrine (崇聖祠)

The Chongsheng Shrine is situated behind the main Dacheng Hall and is used as a shrine room to venerate the ancestors of Confucius as well as the various Confucian sages and philosophers throughout history. This shrine room is not unlike a shrine room that you'd find in any large Taiwanese home and is an important place for ancestral worship. 

The descendants of Confucius have spread out throughout China, Taiwan and Korea so it's important for them to have a place to worship. The shrine room isn't often open to visitors but you can look through the windows to see inside and if it is open you can walk in and see a smaller shrine room that is quite similar to the much larger shrine in Dacheng Hall.

Confucius Ceremony

Every year on September 28th the nation celebrates what is known as "Teachers Day" (教師節) which in actuality is the birthday of Confucius. Teachers Day is the most important and also the most active day of the year at Confucius Temple's all around the country. The ceremony that takes place at the temple each year pays homage to the most important educator in Chinese history but also pays homage to all the teachers who work tirelessly to educate the students of this country.

Confucius's philosophy of "educating all without discrimination, and teaching students according to their talent" is a core value of the education system in Taiwan and no matter what issues I have with the system that is in place in Taiwan, it is an admirable quality that no one with a sincere desire to learn, no matter what their class or character is given the opportunity to receive an excellent education. The Confucius Memorial Ceremony is an elaborate event that celebrates a tradition that deserves a lot more attention than a short description, so I hope to be able to attend the ceremony this year and give a better description of it! 

It's hard after so much research on these temples to say that I have a particular favourite - The Taipei Temple has a history intertwined with modern Taiwan and the fusion of traditional architecture with southern architecture is quite cool. The Tainan temple is the oldest temple of its kind in Taiwan and the massive trees around the temple make it a sight that shouldn't be missed.

For me, I like that the Taoyuan temple is so large that it dwarfs the others - I like that it is nestled into the side of Tiger Head Mountain (虎頭山) with hiking trails and wildlife all around it. I love the large red pillars within the temple as well as the large opens spaces inside that make it extremely easy for a photographer to get beautiful shots especially since the temple is rarely very busy. 

It's obviously not a competition to say which one is the best, but the Taoyuan temple has a special place in my heart because of all the factors I listed above. It's not convenient to get to and it's certainly not the popular tourist attraction that the other two are and at times it seems like parts of the temple aren't properly taken care of, but that shouldn't stop you from trying to check it out if you're in the area! 

For more information about Taiwan’s Confucius Temple’s please check out my Confucius Temple Guide.


Tiemu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布)

Tie-Mu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布) which translates literally as "Iron Wood Waterfall" is a beautiful waterfall in Taoyuan's mountainous Fuxing Village (復興鄉) in an area between the popular Dongyanshan Forest Park (東眼山森林遊樂區) and Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來瀑布) and makes for an excellent side trip if you're in the area or even an excellent place to escape the hot summer heat for a swim in a chilly mountain river. 

The waterfall is a part of Xiayun River (霞雲溪), an important river that finds its source high in the mountains in an area between Dongyanshan (東眼山) in Taoyuan county and Manyueyuan (滿月圓) in New Taipei City. The river flows down into Taoyuan and eventually merges with the much larger Dahan River (大漢溪) a few kilometres away from the waterfall and ultimately flows into Taoyuan's Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫). 

There is an area downstream from the waterfall which seems quite popular for camping, swimming and barbecuing during the summer months but strangely the waterfall seems like it is relatively unknown and for some reason isn't really appreciated by travellers (and locals) which I find a bit odd considering the size of the falls and the close proximity to the road and a village. 

The waterfall is situated within the beautiful Xiayun Village (霞雲村) an Atayal (泰雅族) village just off of the Northern-Cross highway (北橫公路) - The small Indigenous village s surrounded by mountains and the river runs directly through it making it quite a pretty place to visit. While driving through the village searching for the waterfall there was a community activity being held at the elementary school which was promoting Atayal culture to the children who lived there. 

Getting to the waterfall can be a bit precarious as there are no markings that tell you how to get to the falls so if you plan on going remember that while Google Maps is often your friend, it isn't really to be trusted in this case as it will have driving around in circles.

To make things easy, before you arrive at Xiayun Elementary School (下雲國小) take a right turn on Kuzhi Road (庫志道路) and go down the hill, cross the bridge and go up the hill for about 100 meters before arriving at a small wooden platform on the right side of the road.

The platform has a spot to view the waterfall from above but it is mostly covered by trees, so in order to get a better look just take the stairs down the hill which will bring you to the top of a cliff where you will have a much better vantage point to see the waterfall.

From the cliff you can make your way down to water-level using ropes to scale down the rock face (It is actually quite easy so don't worry too much!) or you can turn right and walk down a trail that follows a path above the river but leads you away from the waterfall.

There are warning signs about deep water and swimming that are meant to dissuade people from swimming, but the pool in front of the waterfall is a pretty good one for a swim, especially during the hot summer months. On the day I visited the falls the water was only about shoulder deep but there was a current that would put you back to the shallow part of the pool. 

If you plan on going for a swim, remember to be careful and exercise caution. Fuxing village is quite remote and the closest hospital is probably more than an hour away. You don't want to find yourself getting seriously hurt while swimming. Also, when accidents happen in places like this there is usually a knee-jerk reaction from the government to shut down access.

This was the first waterfall I've had a swim in so far this year and I had a great time cooling off - The water was cold but refreshing on a 35 degree afternoon! I'm a little annoyed with myself that I have lived in Taoyuan for so long and never knew about this beautiful place until this year but I'm sure I'll go back many times in the future! 

If you plan on visiting, have fun and make sure to be careful while enjoying the natural beauty of the area!

Link: Follow Xiaofei - Tiemu Waterfall


2016 Tung Blossoms (客家桐花祭)

In April and May forests in Taiwan turn white with the popular Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that line mountains and hillsides around the country. Locals often refer to Tung Blossoms as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom) and their arrival attracts people from all over the country to places where they grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20 meters tall and is endemic to south China and Burma. It was originally brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the occupation period and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan. The cultivation of the tree was important primarily to the Hakka people who lived in the areas where the trees were planted. The trees have thus had a long-lasting relationship with the Hakka people and that relationship continues to this day as the tree has become an important symbol of their culture.

The importance of the tree originally was because of the economic benefits it brought - The seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil (桐油) which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the wood in turn was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks. The economic benefits the tree brought rural communities allowed families to make ends meet. When those economic benefits eventually subsided, the tree transformed into the symbol of the Hakka people who drew parallels between the simplicity and hard working nature of  their culture and the tree as well as showing their respect for the economic prosperity the tree brought them.

In 2002 the Hakka Affairs Council (客家委員會) started the "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event that takes place during the blooming season as a method to promote and preserve Hakka culture as well as to help improve economic development and tourism in Hakka towns. The yearly event attracts large crowds of people in part to see the Tung Blossoms but also to experience Hakka culture and cuisine - especially in old town towns like Beipu, Daxi and Nanzhuang where there are popular "old streets" that already work quite hard to preserve Hakka culture. 

May Snow (五月雪) 

The Tung blossom is just one of the various types of blossoms that bloom during the early parts of the year in Taiwan. Spring is a busy time of the year in Taiwan for people who appreciate this kind of things. The Tung blossom differentiates itself from the others though as it is the only one that "symbolizes" one of the cultures of the country. The Tung blossoms may not be as popular as cherry or plum blossoms (the national flower) but in recent years they have become an important part of the annual "Hanami" (flower viewing) habit of the Taiwanese people between January and May and as fas as I'm concerned, viewing the Tung blossoms and enjoying and some amazing Hakka food on the same day sounds like time well spent! 

I consider myself lucky living in Taoyuan (Literally: Peach Garden) where we start the year with cherry blossoms (櫻花) and then get peach (桃花), plum (梅花) and Tung blossoms shortly after. I never really have to go very far to see this stuff and it is convenient that I can often avoid the large crowds by travelling by scooter close to home and driving past all the traffic.

One of the coolest things about the Tung blossoms is that in areas where they grow in abundance they tend to turn hiking trails 'white' as the blossoms fall to the ground. This is somewhat similar to what happens in Japan with the Sakura snow referred to as Hanafubuki (花吹雪). Tung blossoms are different however because of their colour and give off an effect of snow falling in the forests which is beautiful as at any giving time hundreds of them are falling around you while you're hiking.

Tung Blossoms in a small mountain stream. 

The festival has only been happening for fourteen years but in that time the blossoms have become popular with people of all ages. In the past few years though they have become quite popular with young Taiwanese couples who enjoy hiking into the mountains to have impromptu romantic photoshoots with the Tung Blossoms. You'll also notice that it is quite common that people along the hiking trails will spend time gathering some of the blossoms that have fallen on the ground and arranging them into hearts or Chinese characters such as the word for love (愛) as well as other shapes on the ground. Husbands or boyfriends even go as far as making a 'Tung blossom halo' that they put around their head of their partner. This is all quite new but with the help of the media, it has only fuelled the popularity of the Tung blossom festival. 

Technically speaking, the problem with shooting Tung blossoms as opposed to Cherry or Plum blossoms is that the trees are typically on the side of mountains and are very tall. Cherry blossom trees are actually quite short and only ever reach about 10 meters tall making them extremely easy to take photos of while Tung blossoms are more of a pain in the ass as you can't get that close to them. This means that if you are like myself and want photos of the blossoms still on the tree, you are going to need the help of a telephoto lens of at least 300mm in focal length.

Most people however are unlike me and prefer taking shots of the blossoms as they fall to the ground and don't really focus on them too much while they're still on the trees. Apart from taking shots of the blossoms on the trees I prefer finding a hiking trail that has a river stream running through it so that I can get photos of the blossoms sitting in the water or just using my telephoto lens to take shots of the shapes all the other photographers spend a lot of time arranging.

Photography like all art is subjective and when it comes to this stuff there is no right or wrong way of taking photos - it is up to the person taking the shots and what they want to show. I prefer photos that are much more natural than something staged and you won't ever find me arranging the blossoms into hearts (but I'll still grab a quick shot or two if someone does the work for me)   

The 2016 Tung Blossom festival is on until May 22nd (the blossoms may actually last longer than that) and apart from viewing the blossoms there are many activities planned during the weekends in Hakka towns throughout Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli (among others) where visitors will be able to experience Hakka culture, cuisine and art as well as traditional performances. This is an important time of the year for cultural promotion and preservation so if you have a chance, try to get out and enjoy some of the activities, some Hakka Lei Tea and of course the blossoms. 

Website: 2016 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival