Landscape

2016 Tung Blossoms (客家桐花祭)

In April and May forests in Taiwan turn white with the popular Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that line mountains and hillsides around the country. Locals often refer to Tung Blossoms as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom) and their arrival attracts people from all over the country to places where they grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20 meters tall and is endemic to south China and Burma. It was originally brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the occupation period and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan. The cultivation of the tree was important primarily to the Hakka people who lived in the areas where the trees were planted. The trees have thus had a long-lasting relationship with the Hakka people and that relationship continues to this day as the tree has become an important symbol of their culture.

The importance of the tree originally was because of the economic benefits it brought - The seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil (桐油) which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the wood in turn was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks. The economic benefits the tree brought rural communities allowed families to make ends meet. When those economic benefits eventually subsided, the tree transformed into the symbol of the Hakka people who drew parallels between the simplicity and hard working nature of  their culture and the tree as well as showing their respect for the economic prosperity the tree brought them.

In 2002 the Hakka Affairs Council (客家委員會) started the "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event that takes place during the blooming season as a method to promote and preserve Hakka culture as well as to help improve economic development and tourism in Hakka towns. The yearly event attracts large crowds of people in part to see the Tung Blossoms but also to experience Hakka culture and cuisine - especially in old town towns like Beipu, Daxi and Nanzhuang where there are popular "old streets" that already work quite hard to preserve Hakka culture. 

May Snow (五月雪) 

The Tung blossom is just one of the various types of blossoms that bloom during the early parts of the year in Taiwan. Spring is a busy time of the year in Taiwan for people who appreciate this kind of things. The Tung blossom differentiates itself from the others though as it is the only one that "symbolizes" one of the cultures of the country. The Tung blossoms may not be as popular as cherry or plum blossoms (the national flower) but in recent years they have become an important part of the annual "Hanami" (flower viewing) habit of the Taiwanese people between January and May and as fas as I'm concerned, viewing the Tung blossoms and enjoying and some amazing Hakka food on the same day sounds like time well spent! 

I consider myself lucky living in Taoyuan (Literally: Peach Garden) where we start the year with cherry blossoms (櫻花) and then get peach (桃花), plum (梅花) and Tung blossoms shortly after. I never really have to go very far to see this stuff and it is convenient that I can often avoid the large crowds by travelling by scooter close to home and driving past all the traffic.

One of the coolest things about the Tung blossoms is that in areas where they grow in abundance they tend to turn hiking trails 'white' as the blossoms fall to the ground. This is somewhat similar to what happens in Japan with the Sakura snow referred to as Hanafubuki (花吹雪). Tung blossoms are different however because of their colour and give off an effect of snow falling in the forests which is beautiful as at any giving time hundreds of them are falling around you while you're hiking.

Tung Blossoms in a small mountain stream. 

The festival has only been happening for fourteen years but in that time the blossoms have become popular with people of all ages. In the past few years though they have become quite popular with young Taiwanese couples who enjoy hiking into the mountains to have impromptu romantic photoshoots with the Tung Blossoms. You'll also notice that it is quite common that people along the hiking trails will spend time gathering some of the blossoms that have fallen on the ground and arranging them into hearts or Chinese characters such as the word for love (愛) as well as other shapes on the ground. Husbands or boyfriends even go as far as making a 'Tung blossom halo' that they put around their head of their partner. This is all quite new but with the help of the media, it has only fuelled the popularity of the Tung blossom festival. 

Technically speaking, the problem with shooting Tung blossoms as opposed to Cherry or Plum blossoms is that the trees are typically on the side of mountains and are very tall. Cherry blossom trees are actually quite short and only ever reach about 10 meters tall making them extremely easy to take photos of while Tung blossoms are more of a pain in the ass as you can't get that close to them. This means that if you are like myself and want photos of the blossoms still on the tree, you are going to need the help of a telephoto lens of at least 300mm in focal length.

Most people however are unlike me and prefer taking shots of the blossoms as they fall to the ground and don't really focus on them too much while they're still on the trees. Apart from taking shots of the blossoms on the trees I prefer finding a hiking trail that has a river stream running through it so that I can get photos of the blossoms sitting in the water or just using my telephoto lens to take shots of the shapes all the other photographers spend a lot of time arranging.

Photography like all art is subjective and when it comes to this stuff there is no right or wrong way of taking photos - it is up to the person taking the shots and what they want to show. I prefer photos that are much more natural than something staged and you won't ever find me arranging the blossoms into hearts (but I'll still grab a quick shot or two if someone does the work for me)   

The 2016 Tung Blossom festival is on until May 22nd (the blossoms may actually last longer than that) and apart from viewing the blossoms there are many activities planned during the weekends in Hakka towns throughout Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli (among others) where visitors will be able to experience Hakka culture, cuisine and art as well as traditional performances. This is an important time of the year for cultural promotion and preservation so if you have a chance, try to get out and enjoy some of the activities, some Hakka Lei Tea and of course the blossoms. 

Website: 2016 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival 


Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖)

A week or so ago my friends and I went on an all-expense paid day-trip to Miaoli which had us relaxing and chatting on a nice comfy bus all the way to Nanzhuang village (南庄) - a popular tourist spot with a Hakka old street and the ancestral home of the Say-Siyat indigenous people (賽夏族)

We started the day learning about Say-Siyat culture at a museum dedicated to the tribe and their history, then enjoyed some time at a mountain-top lake before heading down to have dinner at a Hakka restaurant and then making our way to the Nanzhuang Old Street. Today's post won't be about all of that though, it's just going to be a short one about Hsiang-Tian Lake, one of the destinations on the trip.

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖) which is also known in Hakka as "Yang-Tian Lake" (仰天湖) is a small lake on a mountain at an elevation of 738 meters above sea level. The rare mountain-top lake is surrounded by mountains and due to its elevation is often foggy or misty which makes it appear mysterious. The water in the lake has an odd green tint to it and the colour of the trees surrounding the lake change with the seasons. The lake is thus a popular tourist site and because of that coffee shops, small restaurants and stalls have been set up around it to cater to tourists.

Hundreds of years ago the lake was actually much larger and deeper than it is today - however due to some erosion that took place on the Great East River (大東河) tributary, some of the water receded and land appeared where there was originally water. This new land became an important area for the indigenous tribe to make their homes due to the fertile soil and next to a water source. 

Today, the lake continues to be an important place for the Say-Siyat people and is home to their largest tribe. There is a museum near the lake that chronicles the history of the indigenous group and their culture. Near the lake and the museum there is a large field that holds a festival every two years (as well as a larger one every ten years) called the "Bas-ta'ai" or "The Sacrifice to the Short Spirits" (矮靈祭) which is a three-day festival that has a lot of activities, great food and traditional dancing to honour the "short spirits" at the end of the yearly harvest.

The photos of the lake that I'm posting today were taken with the idea that I would make an attempt to honour what the Sai-Siyat people respected it for - the reflection of the sky. Most of the shots are 10-20 second exposures taken with a wide-angle lens and they capture pretty much the entire width of the lake with the reflection of the mountains and trees near behind it.

The beauty of the lake depends on the season you visit and it seems like most people are greeted by fog and mist. I was lucky on the day we went to have a somewhat clear day, but I was greedy and hoping for a day with blue skies! I hope that when the next "Bas-ta'ai" festival happens that I can visit again and that the weather will be better!

If you have any questions or comments don't be afraid to comment below.

Yoshino Cherry Blossoms (吉野櫻)

It's sakura season here in Taiwan and the blossoms are currently blooming all over the country! In my last post about the Taiwan Cherry Blossoms (山櫻花) I posted about a type of cherry blossom that is endemic to Taiwan. Today I'm going to post about an imported variety of cherry blossom that comes from Japan and is probably the much more popular version. 

Taiwan has a few different types of cherry blossoms which bloom between February and April every year - The type of sakura I'm posting about today are known as "Yoshino Cherries" (吉野櫻) and are probably the most well-loved of all the species of cherry blossoms in Taiwan. 

During this time of the year, it is normal to see your Taiwanese friends posting photos on social media from Japan where they go to specifically see the blossoms while others visit hot spots like Alishan (阿里山), Yangming Mountain (陽明山), Wuling Farm (武陵農場) and Danshui's Tian-Yuan Temple (天元宮) to see them taking part in a tradition known as "flower viewing" (花見).  

As spring rolls around in Taiwan we are lucky to have a few different types of cherry blossoms, but also Peach Blossoms (桃花), Tung Blossoms (油桐花) and Taiwan's national flower the Plum Blossom (梅花) all of which create a lot of tourism for places where the blossoms are growing for this type of flower viewing. 

Each type of blossom has a specific purpose - Tung Blossoms are known as "Hakka flowers" and are said to represent Hakka culture while plum blossoms are the "official" flower of Taiwan and it is common to see them depicted on all sorts of government emblems as well as on the New Taiwan Dollar, the currency of Taiwan. 

Cherry blossoms on the other hand are important to Taiwan not only because of their beauty but because of Taiwan's close relationship with Japan and Japanese culture. The culture of "Hanami" (花見) which is a traditional Japanese custom of flower viewing and respecting their beauty is an activity that is just as popular in Taiwan with people of all ages as it is in Japan. This is why people travel all around the country and in some cases even travel to Japan to take part in a custom that is shared and widely respected by people in both nations. 

Yoshino Cherry Blossoms (吉野櫻) 

There are debates as to the origin of the Yoshino Cherry, but they are believed to have originated in the Yoshino district (吉野郡) of Nara which is where they get their name. The trees are mostly ornamental and are loved for their fragrant light-pink blossoms and the manageable size of the tree.

In Japan, the trees were thought to represent clouds and thus represented the impermanent nature of life, a Buddhist concept known in Japan as "Mono no Aware" (物の哀れ) which is translated as "an empathy towards things." This concept is a reflection of the Japanese people's awareness for the reality of life and how all things, even beautiful things will eventually come to an end. 

The trees started to be imported to Taiwan during the Japanese-colonial period between 1895-1945 and from that time on the Japanese appreciation of cherry blossoms was appropriated as part of Taiwan's cultural heritage. Taiwan and Japan share a lot of cultural similarities due to the colonial period and even though that period ended over 70 years ago and isn't looked upon as an entirely positive experience, the people of Taiwan and Japan share a lot of respect for each other and Taiwan's development wouldn't have been so successful if it weren't for Japan's influence. 

That appreciation was put on display after the devastating 2011 Tohuku earthquake (東北地方太平洋沖地震) where Taiwan became the country which donated the most amount of money and resources to help those affected by the earthquake and the tsunami that followed. The generosity of the Taiwanese people didn't go unnoticed and as part of their appreciation, Japan took out a full page ad in Taiwan's UDN newspaper thanking the people of the country for their solidarity and generosity during such a devastating experience. 

It was fitting that the ad displayed not only the Japanese people's gratitude for their friend and neighbour but also a cherry blossom which displayed the closeness and solidarity of the two cultures.  

The sakura shots I'm posting today were all taken on Yangming Mountain in Taipei and I focused on the blossoms rather than landscapes. In technical terms most of the shots were taken with an aperture of f/2.8 meaning that the subject will be in focus while the backgrounds will be blurred causing an effect photographers refer to as "bokeh" and is only really achievable with certain types of lenses.

I thought that as I had posted last year landscape shots of these sakura at Tian-Yuan Temple that this year I would instead focus on the cherry blossoms themselves and let people enjoy the photos in a different way. 

If you are in Taiwan or Japan right now, it is the best time of the year to view these blossoms. If you have time make sure to use it to get out and see them. The people at Round Taiwan Round published an excellent guide of where people can see them, so check it out and enjoy one of Taiwan's most beautiful flower seasons! 

If you have any questions or comments feel free to comment below or get in touch with me in the contact section below!