Japanese Colonial Era

Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道文化園)

With the recent re-opening of the Taihoku Railway Bureau in Taipei, there has been a renewed focus around the country with regard to the history of the railway, especially when it comes to anything remaining from the Japanese Colonial Era.

After a long period of restoration, (likely requiring an obscene amount of money) both the headquarters of the former Japanese-era railway and the Taipei Railway Workshop reopened in 2020, attracting quite a bit of attention from the local media, nerds like myself, and tourists alike. That being said, even though Taipei is home to these two important historic sites, it most certainly wasn’t the first area in Taiwan to restore and reopen historic railway-related buildings to the public.

During the colonial era, the Japanese Colonial Government strategically set up Railway Bureaus and Workshops around the island in order to better maintain the operation of the continually expanding railway network that sought to eventually encircle the island. So, even though the headquarters was technically located in the capital, there were also large branch offices and workshops located in Kaohsiung to the south and Hualien on the east coast. 

Today, the Kaohsiung Railway Bureau has been (高雄鐵道部) reopened as the “Hamasen Railway Cultural Park” (哈瑪星鐵道文化園區) while the Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道部) is currently home to the “Hualien Railway Culture Park” (花蓮鐵道文化園區), both of which having reopened well before the park in Taipei! 

So uh…. Take that Taipei! 

Given that I’ve already introduced the Railway Bureau headquarters as well as the Taipei Workshop, I’m going to continue expanding on the subject with this article by introducing the former Hualien Railway Bureau and the Culture Park that exists there today. 

Before I start, I think it is important to keep in mind that both the Hualien and the Kaohsiung Railway Culture Parks are much smaller in comparison to the one in Taipei. They were also reopened a lot earlier and likely didn’t receive a proportionate amount of funding as the one in the capital. 

I’m not telling you this to lead you to think that they’re not as impressive. They’re still pretty cool.

I just think it’s important to remember that the scale and the exhibitions you’ll find at each of these parks is going to differ slightly. Likewise what you can see and do at each of them is going to be different, especially in the case of this park as it is often used by local vendors as an art space and a place for film festivals, etc. 

Without further adieu, I’ll start by introducing the history of the Hualien Railway Bureau, then move on to its architectural design and then introducing about the culture park that exists there today. 

Hualien Railway Bureau (花蓮鐵道部)

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan in 1895, a rudimentary railway in the Northern portion of the island had already been constructed between Keelung and Taipei. To slow the pace of the Japanese army’s advance into the capital however that railway was sabotaged in several sections, forcing the army to make quick repairs in order to ensure that they could effectively take administrative control of the capital.

The sabotage scheme ultimately had little effect on the army’s advance with military engineers completing emergency reparations on the rail line and having it back in service within two months of their arrival. The “Temporary Taiwan Railway Team” (臨時臺灣鐵道隊) of engineers were initially stationed in Keelung, and by 1896, proposals were drawn up to improve and re-route the existing railroad between the port and the capital, while also making plans for a railway that would encircle the entire island. 

By 1897 (明治30年), engineers from the Railway Team had criss-crossed Taiwan and came up with proposals for five routes that would stretch across the island, and were even considering an ambitious vertical route that would cross the Central Mountain Range. Unfortunately for the Railway Team, their exploration of the mountainous areas put them in direct confrontation with the Indigenous peoples near Taroko, resulting in the deaths of fourteen of their engineers, and the decision that a railway through the mountains wasn’t feasible. 

In 1899 (明治32年), the ‘Temporary Railway Team’ was officially reestablished as the “Ministry of Railways of the Governor Generals Office of Taiwan” (臺灣總督府鐵道部), charged with managing the construction of a railway network around the island in addition to the operation and maintenance of public and private railways.  

Note: The Private Railways mentioned above were those used by the various monopoly industries such as the camphor, sugarcane, coal, etc. Which were using branch railways off of the main lines to extract natural resources, and get them to port as efficiently as possible. 

While the construction of the railroad along Taiwan’s much more developed western coast progressed rather smoothly, the Eastern branch line (臺東線) was a more difficult undertaking, and ended up taking considerably longer to complete. With railway construction simultaneously taking place in different stages around the island, the eastern branch line was completed several decades after the west coast lines.

For the purpose of this particular article, it’s important to note that construction on the northern segment of the line, from Karenko (花蓮港) to Poshiko (璞石閣), known today as Hualien (花蓮) and Yuli (玉里), started in 1909 (明治42年), and was completed in 1917 (大正7年). 

Japanese-era map of the main railways in Taiwan.

The Eastern Branch ultimately wouldn’t be completed until 1926 (昭和元年) when 171.8 kilometers of rail was officially opened to the public between Hualien and Taitung, both of which were the terminal stations for the rail line. 

Even though the Western Coast of Taiwan was connected by railway from Taipei all the way to Pingtung with more than a dozen branch lines between the mountains and the ports on the coast, service on the East Coast was considerably less convenient, with the line from Taipei terminating in Su’ao (蘇澳), Yilan’s southern most village.

It’s important to note that while there were plans to connect the Eastern Branch railway in the north between Yilan and Hualien and in the South between Taitung and Pingtung (屏東), as it is today, those plans were never actually realized.

Maybe that was a good thing though, at the time a trip between Taitung and Hualien took between 7-8 hours for passengers, and 11 hours for freight.

Japanese-era photo of the Hualien Railway Bureau (日治時期花蓮鐵道部出張所)

To coordinate operations on the Taitung Line, it was necessary to construct a Hualien Branch of the Railway Bureau (鐵道部花蓮出張所). Established in 1909, the Railway Bureau took up a prominent portion of the downtown core of Hualien, extending well-beyond what has been preserved today to encompass several city blocks. Featuring a Branch Office (出張所 / しゅっちょうじょ), Engineering Works (公務 / こうむ), Military Police Outpost (警務處 / けいむ), Inspection Garage (檢車庫), Water Stop (蒸汽火車加水塔), machine factory (機廠), official residence (處長官邸), staff dormitories (員工宿舍區), railway hospital (鐵道醫院), etc. 

From 1909 until the 1970s, the Railway Workshop area was one of the most commercially active in downtown Hualien, and was constantly bustling with activity as it became one of the focal points for development and local administration.

This was in part due to the fact that a year after the Railway Workshop started operations, the Karenko Railway Station (花蓮港停車場  / かれんこう) was constructed next door and started limited railway service along the eastern line. 

Note: The Hualien Railway Station has since moved to another part of town, but was originally located at the intersection of what has become Zhongshan Road (中山路) and Chongqing Road (重慶路) today. The station was constructed in 1910 (明治43年) and remained in service until 1981 (民國70年), it was torn down a decade later in 1992 (民國81年).  

Japanese-era Hualien Station (日治時期花蓮港車站)

Even though the Hualien Railway Bureau dates back to 1909, the buildings that that we can visit today aren’t what you have seen when it was officially opened. What has been preserved as part of the railway culture park today date back to a 1932 (昭和7年) rebuild and expansion of the railway bureau which was a reflection of the completion of the eastern branch of the railway a few years earlier. 

After 28 years of painstaking construction, the 173 kilometer Taitung Line Railway was completed and the start of operations coincided with the celebrations of the first year of the Showa Era (昭和元年). The official opening ceremonies for the completed railway were held on March 25th, 1926 and ushered in a new era of prosperity for Hualien, and the rest of the eastern coast of Taiwan as the flow of materials became much more efficient.

Similarly, given that the Hualien Railway Station was located next to the Railway Bureau, the area surrounding the railway became instrumental for economic development.

When the Second World War came to a conclusion and the Japanese surrendered to the allies, control of Taiwan was (ambiguously) given to the Republic of China (中華民國) and after Taiwan’s so-called “retrocession”, the Hualien Railway Bureau was occupied by the new regime, and renamed the Hualien Management Office of the Taiwan Railway Administration (台灣鐵路管理局花蓮辦事處). The buildings and equipment onsite remained in use until the early 1980s when the administration and maintenance of the railway of the eastern branch migrated across town in conjunction with the new station.

Japanese-era Hualien Station (日治時期花蓮港車站)

The current Hualien Railway Station, located north-west of the original station was recently expanded and underwent a several year period of reconstruction. Like its much earlier predecessor, the beautiful new station has become one of the focal points of the city, and as was the case in the past, the administration of the railway takes place within the upper offices of the railway station while the maintenance of the trains is taken care of at the massive 34,000m² Hualien Machine Factory (花蓮機廠) nearby. 

Even though the original railway that ran through the port area of Hualien has been abandoned, parts of the track have been preserved and you can still see some of it along the the Old Railway Walkway (舊鐵路行人徒步區), which has been transformed into a hip part of town and a tourist attraction in its own right. 

With the Japanese-era Hualien Railway Station having already been sadly torn down a few short years after the migration of the railway and its administration took place, experts, scholars and local citizens started to advocate for the preservation of the historic Railway Bureau, and the various buildings that still existed on the site.

In 2002 (民國91年), the Hualien County Cultural Affairs Bureau (花蓮縣文化局) officially registered the Railway Bureau and the various buildings on-site as protected historic buildings (花蓮縣歷史建築), and plans were made to restore the buildings and reopen them to the public as a culture park. 

In 2011, restoration work on the first section of the former Railway Bureau was completed with the Branch Office (出張所) becoming the main attraction, while the dormitories and Machine Works across the street remained a work in progress. As of writing, this section has yet to be completely re-opened to the public. Likewise, the former Water Stop and Directors Residence are still undergoing restoration, meaning that I’ll have to return in the near future to check them out. 

When I do visit again, this space will be updated, although I plan on dedicating an entire article to the Directors Dormitory, as it looks to be one of the prettiest of the high-ranking dorms that remains in Taiwan today. 

Sadly, even though the Railway Hospital (舊鐵路醫院) has been protected as a historic property, restoration work on the building had yet to start before being partially destroyed by fire in early 2021. The damage to the historic buildings was considerable, and reparations will be funded by the Taiwan Railway Administration, but currently planning for the project is just getting underway, so we probably can’t expect that it will be part of the larger Railway Bureau Park any time in the near future. 

Link: 花蓮舊鐵路醫院遭祝融 部分歷史建物受損 (UDN) 

As mentioned earlier, the Hualien Railway Bureau certainly isn’t as large and thus far hasn’t been adapted into a well-organized culture park as its contemporary in Taipei. It has nevertheless become an important cultural and tourist attraction in Hualien, and over the next few years as the restoration process progresses, it will continue to grow, making it one of the focal points of cultural preservation in downtown Hualien City.  

Hualien Railway Culture Park (花蓮鐵道文化園)

The Hualien Railway Culture Park currently consists of two sections that are open to the public, and feature historic exhibitions in addition to offering event spaces and allowing for private vendors to set up weekend markets and food stalls. There is a little something for everyone who visits the historic culture park, making it a popular tourist attraction for every type of tourist. 

Below, I’ll briefly introduce both sections of the park, known simply as “Section 1” (一館區) and “Section 2” (二館區), explaining a little about each of the buildings within, their architectural design and what they’re currently used for within the contemporary culture park. 

Section 1 (一館區) - Branch Office (出張所)

Section One of the Hualien Railway Culture Park is home to none other than the Railway Bureau itself. Essentially the most historically significant and architecturally distinct part of the park, this is where the everyday business affairs of the railway would have been carried out. 

Home to the Branch Office (出張所), the building is a hodgepodge of architectural styles constructed with a fusion of Japanese and western elements, while also mimicking the traditional Chinese style four-sided courtyard (四合院) layout. 

The front gates to the Branch Office open up into a tree-covered front courtyard with a drive way that would have allowed cars to come in and circle around on their way out. Directly to the left of the gate you’ll find a small Japanese-style guard building, which has amazingly served the same role from the day it was built until now. 

On the opposite side, a bit closer to the front entrance of the Branch Office you’ll find a cement air-raid shelter that has been dug into the ground near one of the trees. The shelter is a relic of the Japanese-era, but was preserved in its original form - just in case.

The front courtyard is currently made available on weekends and holidays to local vendors who are permitted to set up tables to sell arts and crafts in addition to a variety of food trucks that offer snacks and drinks for sale to visitors. If you’re feeling hungry and feel like the food selection isn’t all that great, never fear, the Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市) is a two minute walk and there’s always something good to eat there! 

Looking up into the interior of the tower with its stained-glass windows

The front entrance to the Branch Office is absolutely beautiful and is a long rectangular-shaped building with a double-layer roof. The center of the building opens up with a passageway covered by a gothic-style tower (哥德式高塔) that has stained-glass windows on all four sides, allowing for beautiful natural light in the corridor below. The tower is coincidentally one of the features of the building that makes the Branch Office so architecturally distinct and differentiates it from pretty much every other Japanese-era building remaining in Taiwan today. 

Once you pass through the corridor you will find yourself in another beautiful courtyard surrounded on all four sides by the rest of the Branch Office. The courtyard has a little pond in the middle with some pine trees offering some shade. 

Even though I just said that the layout of the Branch Office mimics that of a Chinese-style four-sided courtyard building, it does differ slightly and even though there are buildings on all four sides, they’re not physically connected in the way that a similar Chinese-style building would be.

The main courtyard of the Railway Bureau

The main area of the Branch Office is rectangular in shape and was home to offices on both the eastern and western wings. Once you pass through the corridor however, you’ll notice that there is a covered walkway on both sides that leads to the other buildings. The walkway that surrounds the building is what helps to make it look like the buildings are all physically connected, even though they aren’t. 

Directly to the left of the corridor you’ll find another similarly long rectangular building that forms an “L” shape with the main building. These two buildings work together to make up the vast majority of the permanent exhibition space that provides historic information about the Railway Bureau. 

Covered corridors between buildings

Architecturally, both of the buildings are relatively similar in that they were constructed in the traditional Japanese ‘irimoya’ (入母屋) style, meaning that the base of the building is smaller than the roof, which extends beyond the base. The design of the roof on both of these buildings however is relatively simple compared to other buildings in this architectural style as they’re not of the typical hip-and-gable variety you’d see elsewhere. So even though the main building features the gothic tower that extends above the main part of the roof, the rest is quite simple.

The covered passageway that reaches around the building does make the roof appear as if its double-layered, but the purpose here was to prevent employees getting wet on rainy days and diverting the rain water onto the courtyard rather than the walkway, as well as allowing the various pillars that wrap around the building to evenly distribute the weight of the roof. 

Exhibition Space

Both buildings have been constructed using wood and feature beautiful sliding glass windows on both the front and back sides, allowing for an ample amount of natural light into the building. This is important because the ceiling in the interior of the buildings is (currently) open, so you’re able to check out the intricate network of trusses that were put in place to help keep the heavy roof in place. 

The building known today simply as Exhibition Area 1 (展覽區1) is the front facing building with the gothic tower was once home to the Directors Office (處長室), Administration Office (總務室), Works Department (工務課) and Maintenance Department (機務課). Separated into two different exhibition spaces, this building is essentially the main attraction if you’re interested in learning about the history of the Railway Bureau and the East Coast Railway. 

Likewise, Exhibition Area 2 (展覽區2) is located in the wing directly to the left of the main building and was originally home to the Accounting Office (會計室), Traffic Safety Committee (行車保安委員會) and a Training Room (運務課). Today the building is home to a large model train version of Hualien City from the days when the Railway Station was located next door to the Railway Bureau. There are some other exhibition pieces in the building as well, but I feel like this is somewhat of a wasted space as they could probably do a lot more with such a large open area than having a model railway that doesn’t even run most of the time. 

Model railway of Hualian

As I mentioned earlier with regard to how this Railway Bureau differs from the one in Taipei, wasted and unused space is an issue that the authorities have to deal with. Not only is the Exhibition Space in the former Accounting Building an underutilized space, the small electrical production building to the rear is likewise completely empty, while another one of the former offices at the rear of the courtyard are used simply for the park administration and public washrooms. 

The most architecturally distinct building within the Railway Bureau is the former Meeting Room and Banquet Hall (聚會場所), a century old Japanese style building that was renamed “Zhongshan Hall” (中山堂) after the colonial era ended. Currently home to the Railway Movie Theater (鐵道電影院), the building was never actually planned to be utilized as an exhibition space, but instead a space where the Hualien City Government can hold film festivals. So when you visit, if there isn’t any events planned, you may find that the building is locked up and not accessible to tourists. 

Constructed using local Hinoki Cypress (檜木) from Morisaka (林田山) and the Chinan Forest Area (池南林區) in the mountains of Hualien, the local government spent $11,000,000NT ($370,000USD) restoring the building, while retaining as much of the original cypress as possible. 

Note: Morisaka (林田山) is known today as the “Lintian Mountain Forestry Culture Park” (林田山林業文化園區) while the “Chinan National Forest Recreation Area” (池南國家森林遊樂區) was located along the Haron Forestry Railroad (哈崙 (ハロン) 森林鐵道), two of Hualien’s three Japanese era timber railways. 

The meeting hall after dark

In almost every article I’ve read about the building, it seems like they all parrot the same talking point, namely that ‘Zhongshan Hall’ is a century year old building. I thought it was a bit strange given that the rest of the Railway Bureau is around ninety years old (as of 2021), so I spent some time looking to see if the building was part of the original itieration of the Railway Bureau, but no one offered up any information as to why the building was being dated the way it was. After a while, I more or less just came to the conclusion that they were probably rounding up. The building appears like it was constructed at the same time as the rest of the buildings on site so we still have another decade to go before its reaches its centennial.  

That being said, the Railway Bureau’s banquet hall is definitely the most elaborate in terms of its architectural design in comparison to the other buildings. Yes, it was constructed using hinoki cypress, one of the most expensive types of wood in Taiwan, but it also features the most elaborate roof. Even though the building doesn’t feature a traditional Japanese hip-and-gable roof, it has beautiful black Japanese roof tiles (黑瓦), which have recently been restored. It also features a lower second layer that extends entirely around the building and is held in place by a network of pillars. Similar to the covered walkways on the front buildings, this one has received a bit more attention in its design. 

Covered walkway next to the meeting hall

The last thing I’ll mention about the design of this building is its windows, there are large sliding glass windows on all four sides as well as rectangular-shaped windows above the first layer of the roof that allow natural light into the building. The lower sliding windows are of course quite common within Japanese architecture, but one thing you’ll want to pay attention to are the round dormer (oxeye) windows (老虎窗) on the front and back, which were pretty much only added for design purposes, but were popular for the more elaborate buildings of that era. 

Oh, and the ox-tail windows are part of the reason why I’d argue that the building isn’t a century-old as they are an architectural feature that started appearing on buildings after the 1920s.

Section 2 (二館區) - Engineering Works

The recently opened “Section 2” of the Railway Culture Park is much smaller than the main section, but if you ask me is a little more interesting. Unfortunately though, while the restoration of all of the buildings in this sections seems to have been recently completed, some of them remain empty and severely under-utilized. 

This will probably only be a short-term issue as they’ll certainly not allow their investment in the restoration of these buildings to go to waste. So, as I mentioned above, I’ll certainly have to be visit again to make sure that I have more photos of these buildings, especially of the interior!

This section of the Railway Bureau was considerably more functional than the other one, which mostly served an administrative purpose. Section 2 was home to the Engineering Works (工務段), and a police outpost (警務段), in addition to preserving part of the original railway that was used for the maintenance of trains. 

Even though the buildings in Section 2 are yet to be opened to the public on a full-time basis, I have to say that I actually enjoyed my visit to this part of the Railway Park more than the other section. The reason for this is because the buildings are more traditional in their architectural design, and because the area is covered with beautiful trees, which have been growing there since the buildings were constructed almost a century ago! 

A hundred-year old banyan tree in section two

Likewise, a couple of the buildings in this section have been opened up to private businesses, one of which currently has a Kimono rental place and another a really nice coffeeshop that has a couple of Shiba Inu’s who hang out in the area.

You’ll also find historic LDT103 steam locomotives on the rail tracks that you’re able to take photos with! 

The various buildings on site are as follows: 

  1. Engineering Works (工務段)

  2. Police Outpost (警務段 / 武道館)

  3. Detention Building (拘役所)

  4. Iron Works (打鐵工房)

  5. Warehouse (附屬倉庫)

  6. Air raid shelter (防空洞)

The first thing I’ll say about the section is that without its giant banyan tree (榕樹), I don’t think I would have enjoyed visiting as much as I did. The century-old tree provides both character and ambiance to the park, and the buildings that surround it should be grateful that they are able to bask in its glory.

The largest building in the park is the former Engineering Works (公務段 / こうむだん), which is now home to a popular coffee shop. The building was constructed in traditional Japanese architecture with Taiwanese wood and black roof files. The construction of the roof on this one is simple, but the sliding glass windows are quite beautiful. If you have the chance, make sure to go into the coffee shop to check out the interior of the building and enjoy a coffee. 

Link: The role of Public-Private Partnerships in Conserving Historic Buildings in Taiwan

Across from the Engineering Works, you’ll find a small Air Raid Shelter dug into the ground near the banyan tree, which you can check out. This one isn’t as large as the air raid shelter in the other section of the park, but it is probably big enough to fit a dozen or so people. 

The interior of the air raid shelter

Behind the banyan tree, you’ll find the former Iron Works (打鐵工坊), which retains some of the original equipment that was used for constructing and repairing rail lines. There’s not too much to see while inside the building, but it was a pretty important part of the Railway Bureau for quite some time. 

Interestingly, when we approached the Police Outpost (警務段), I commented that the exterior looked a bit like what you’d expect from one of Taiwan’s smaller Martial Arts Halls (武德殿) to which I received the comment, “But it isn’t, its an old police station!” Well, I am to boast that I had the last laugh on that one because research on the subject says that prior to 1946, the building was used for practicing Judo (柔道) and Kendo (劍道). It was only after the Japanese left Taiwan that it was converted to a police outpost. 

The exterior of the martial arts hall / police outpost

With that being said, near the former Martial Arts Hall / Police Outpost you’ll find a more recent addition, a cement structure that was used to hold prisoners on a short-term basis. The small jail (拘役所) is open to the public and its a popular place for people to take photos.

Unfortunately during my visit, both the jail and the former police outpost were closed and as I peered in through the windows, it looked as if the police outpost was emptied for some reason. 

The final building on the site is at the rear of the park and in the past was simply used as a storage warehouse. That being said, it looks like all of the other buildings on the site as it was constructed with wood, sliding glass windows and Japanese architecture. Even though it is quite small, today it is occupied by a private company that rents kimono, yukata, and specifically tailored outfits that were popular during the colonial era.

Buildings in section two

This part of the park is also home to an old section of the railway where you’ll find one of the old steam engines and freight cars on display. The steam engine was especially brought by the Taiwan Railway Administration to Hualien to put on display here as this type of steam engine was the one that was used to bring prosperity to the east coast. 

Getting There

 

Address: #71 Zhongshan Road, Hualien City

(花蓮縣花蓮市中山路71號)

GPS: 23.9721202 121.6130952

Located within the downtown core of Hualien, the Railway Bureau is a short walk from the city’s popular Dongdamen Night Market (東大門夜市) and is easily accessible through public transportation. 

That being said, the Railway Bureau is actually not all that close to the current Hualien Railway Station, which is probably a 20-30 minute commute if you’re walking. 

Car / Scooter

If you’re in Hualien and have access to a car or scooter, getting to the Railway Bureau isn’t all that difficult and there is an ample amount of parking in the area along the street or within the paid public parking lots near the night market. 

Simply input the address or the GPS coordinates provided above into your preferred geolocation assistant and you’ll be there in no time! 

Bus 

Given that the Railway Bureau is conveniently located within close proximity to the tourist night market, you’ll find a number of public transportation options for getting there from various areas around Hualien. So, even if you’re not located next to Hualien Station, you should be able to find a bus that fits your specific needs. 

Dongdamen Night Market Bus Stop (東大門夜市站)

  • Taroko Bus (太魯閣客運): #301, 307, 308

  • Hualien Bus (花蓮客運): #1123, 1126, 1128, 1129, 1131, 1132, 1133, 1136, 1139, 1141, 105

Xuanyuan Rd. Bus Stop (軒轅路站) 

While in Hualien, if you’re interested in similar Japanese era destinations, I highly recommend checking out the Hualien Martyrs Shrine (former Shinto Shrine), the Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries Park (花蓮文化創意產業園區), the Yoshino Shrine (慶修院), the Pine Garden (松園別館), the Hualien Sugar Factory Dorms (花蓮觀光糖廠), etc. 

There is certainly a lot to see and do while in Hualien and you should never feel like Taroko Gorge and the Qingshui Cliffs are the only destinations to visit! The city is home to quite a few historic tourist destinations where you’ll also be able to enjoy yourself! 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday 09:00 - 17:00 (Closed on Mondays)

Unfortunately during my visit, quite a few of the buildings in both the First and Second Section in addition to the former Director’s Dormitory were not open to the public. In some cases it seems like they were in the process of changing exhibitions while others just weren’t open at all. So, as I mentioned a few times already, I’ll have to visit again to get more photos. When I do, I’ll update this space, but I’ll probably dedicate an entire article to the directors dormitory. 

Nevertheless, the Hualien County Government has spent a considerable amount of money restoring the former Railway Bureau and even though some of its space is under-utilized, they have come up with some pretty good ideas for attracting locals and tourists alike with weekend markets, film festivals and coffee shops in the historic buildings. 

Given the Railway Bureau’s close proximity to the popular Dongdamen Night Market, you can be sure that there will always be a steady supply of visitors coming to check it out! Even if this one isn’t as big on the historic displays of information, it is still a place where you can learn quite a bit about the important history of the railway in Taiwan, with a special focus on the east coast! 

References

  1. Hualien Railway Culture Park | 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (Wiki)

  2. 臺灣鐵道史 (Wiki)

  3. 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (花蓮綠活小旅行)

  4. 歷史沿革 (花蓮鐵道文化園區官方部落格)

  5. 花蓮舊鐵道商圈歷史與脈絡 (ArcGIS Online)

  6. 舊花蓮驛前碩果僅存的鐵道部出張所歷史建築 (獨立評論 @ 天下)

  7. 花蓮鐵道文化園區 (駱致軒)

  8. 修復半年 花蓮鐵道文化園區一館重新開放 (客家電視)

  9. 穿越百年鐵道時光!4處不可錯過的鐵道文化園區 (Newtalk新聞)

  10. 花蓮百年台鐵中山堂 擬打造鐵道電影院 (CNA)

  11. Hualien 太平洋臨港歷史廊道文化導覽 (花蓮縣全球資訊服務網)

  12. 和風老屋旅行散策 (江明麗) ISBN: 978-9862487594


Taoyuan Police Dormitories (桃園77藝文町)

When I first came to Taiwan, I took a job that required splitting time between Zhongli and Taoyuan, which unfortunately required traveling back and forth, and a lot of stress - because you know, Taiwanese traffic. 

Obviously, this was before I knew very much about the country, so like any fresh-of-the-boat foreigner, I like to think that I should be excused for not noticing every little thing that crossed my path. Obviously, as the years went by, I learned more and more about my new home, and my explorations started to become a bit more adventurous compared when I had first arrived. 

One of those adventures fortunately included a visit to the Zhongli Police Dorms to check out their original abandoned condition, prior to restoration. In retrospect, even though I probably walked past the Taoyuan Police Dorms hundreds of times during my first year in Taiwan, I didn’t really know what kind of treasure was hidden behind the gates to the community, so I never had a chance to enjoy them in their original condition.

Fast forward more than a decade and the historic dorms, like their counterparts here in Zhongli, have been completely restored and re-opened as a culture park for all to enjoy!

I’m still a bit sour about it all though. I could have been exploring these dorms a long time ago! 

Today, the Taoyuan Police Dorms have been given a fresh look on life and have become one of downtown Taoyuan’s most important tourist attractions, especially with young people who are able to enjoy the beautiful park in any number of ways!

As always, before I talk about the culture park, let me first introduce a little bit about the history of the dorms and the area where they’re located! 

Taoyuan Police Dormitories (桃園警察局日式宿舍群)

Having recently celebrated their centennial, the Japanese-era Taoyuan Police Dormitories have been brought back to life by the Taoyuan City Government as a newly re-opened cultural park. 

Dating back to 1920 (大正9年), the dorms were constructed in the same year that Taoyuan’s administrative status was officially upgraded into a “town” (街). Known back then as Tōengai (桃園街 / とうえんがい), the town was the largest settlements within Shinchiku Prefecture’s (新竹州 /しんちくしゅう) Tōen District (桃園郡/とうえんぐん) which encompassed much of what we know today as Luzhu (蘆竹區), Dayuan (大園區), Guishan (龜山區) and Bade (八德區).

As the largest ‘town’ in the district, Tōengai was an economically prosperous area and was responsible for almost seventy percent of Taiwan’s tea production at the time, and was also one of the major competitors to Yingge (鶯歌), for the production of ceramics and pottery.  

Link: The Daxi That Japan Left Behind (日本留下的大溪)

Developing outward from the Taoyuan Railway Station, “Tōengai,” or the area we know today as downtown Taoyuan, was home to a considerable amount of administrative and economic infrastructure near where the dorms are located. Within the area between the dorms and the railway station you would have found the District Assembly Hall (桃園郡役所), Town Assembly Hall (桃園街役場), Post Office (桃園郵便局), Taiwan Bank (臺灣銀行), Police Station (桃園郡警察課), Public Schools (公學校), and a Martial Arts Hall (桃園武德殿), among others. 

Links: Daxi Martial Arts Hall (大溪武德殿) | Longtan Martial Arts Hall (龍潭武德殿)

Knowing what I do about the Japanese administration of the time, this tells me that the Taoyuan Police Dorms most certainly wouldn’t have been the only civil servant dormitories constructed in the area. There would have also been several clusters of civil servant, teachers and martial arts dorms nearby. 

Unfortunately many of the buildings mentioned above have already been torn down and with them the dorms that would have housed their employees (for the most part) have gone with them. This means that the police dorms are currently one of the only remaining clusters of Japanese-era dorms from that era of Taoyuan’s history.

Historic records about the dorms are hit and miss, but what we do know is that after the colonial era ended they consisted of #5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22 on Lane 77 of Zhongzheng Road (中正路77巷). 

If you’re counting that’s ten, which if you divide by two means there were originally five dorms. 

Today however, there are only four remaining, meaning that one of them was probably damaged beyond repair and either collapsed or was torn down long before restoration. 

If we take into consideration that there are currently four “Family-style Shared Dormitories,” and one large open space where the current ‘Prayer Pavilion’ and Public Washrooms are located, its fairly obvious where the dorm was originally located.

Now more than a century old, the four dorms that continue to exist at the park have been completely restored and re-opened as a culture park. 

From 1920 - 1945, the dorms were occupied by members of the police force who were working at the Taoyuan Police Station (桃園郡警察課), and included space for their families.

When the Second World War ended and the Japanese left Taiwan, the dorms continued to be occupied by members of the police force, but this time it was members of the Republic of China Police. 

That being said, as was the case with many of these Japanese-era buildings, as they aged and people moved out, they were abandoned, fell into a state of disrepair, and eventually became an eyesore within the downtown core of Taoyuan.

As mentioned above, when it comes to the design of the dorms, unlike other culture parks where Japanese-era dorms have been restored, there isn’t much of a variation in their design. The four dorms remaining today are all split in half, comparable to a duplex back in North America.

The official name for buildings like this is ‘Family-Style Shared Dorms’, but literally translates as Two-sided-Two-Household Dorm (雙併二戶建宿舍) in Chinese. 

As is the case with these style of dorms, they were always split in half and two families shared the building. When the colonial era ended, this didn’t always remain the case as the buildings were slightly altered in their interior design with people tearing down some of the walls to make for more space, especially those with larger families.

Its important to note that these Japanese-style dormitories follow a basic design rule in that each of them, no matter if they’re a single or a shared dwelling, must consist of the following three spaces: A living space (起居空間), a service space (服務空間) and a passage space (通行空間). 

The “living space” is considerably different than what we’re used to in western standards as what we might consider a “living room” is actually a brilliant multi-functional space where the residents could receive guests, hang out, have their meals, drink tea and sleep.

This space is usually the largest part of these dorms and features tokonoma (床の間/とこのま) or large compartments (like a closet) with sliding doors in the walls where blankets, decorations and other necessities are stored during the day.

Link: Tokonoma (Wiki) 

The “service space” on the other hand could include a number of rooms, which in the double family dorms might be shared spaces between both sides in order to save space. Service spaces typically include the kitchen (台所 / だいどころ), bathroom (風呂 / ふろ), washroom (便所 / べんじょ), etc. 

Finally, the “passage space” in each of these dorms varies, but generally means the front and back entrances to the dorm as well as the corridors within, between the living space and the service space.

Each of the dorms have been constructed using the irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造) style of design, which basically means that the base of the building is smaller than the roof, the weight of which is supported by a network of trusses (屋架) in the ceiling that helps to support the weight of the four-sided sloped hip roof (四坡頂). 

The roof that you’ll find on these buildings however don’t eclipse the size of the building in the same way that the elaborate roofs on shrines and temples do. One final thing to take note of with the roofs of the dorms is that when they were restored, the original tiles were replaced with plastic-looking black tiles, helping to keep cost down.  

Similarly, the wooden shitamiita (下見版 / したみいた) siding on the buildings has been completely replaced. The siding is still too new and is quite dark in colour, but as they age the colours will fade and they’ll look more like what you’d expect from a Japanese building of this kind.

Finally, one of the most significant design features of these buildings, and (as far as I’m concerned) are the stands-outs for me at this culture park are the beautiful ‘engawa’ (緣側/えんがわ) sliding door verandas on the buildings. 

Located at the rear side of each of the dorms, the sliding doors allow for natural air to enter the buildings, while also offering access to the areas where the gardens (and outhouses) would have been located. 

Link: Engawa (Wiki) 

Unfortunately some of them are covered up with curtains at certain times of the day which takes away from their beauty. They are nevertheless one of the most architecturally significant aspects of the dorms that remain today.

Now let’s talk about the the culture park! 

Taoyuan 77 Art Zone (桃園77藝文町)

In an attempt to attract interest to the newly restored culture park, the Taoyuan City Government’s Department of Cultural Affairs held a naming contest for the park in late 2017, prior to its official re-opening. 

After careful consideration of all of the submissions, they eventually went with Taoyuan 77 Artzone (桃園77藝文町), which probably sounds a bit strange to most English speakers. 

In Chinese however, the name does hold special meaning as I’ll break down below: 

  1. “桃園” (Taoyuan) - This one should be obvious!

  2. “77” - The number referring to the lane where the dorms are located.

  3. “藝文” - (Art) a common word used to refer to these cultural parks (藝文區).

  4. “町” - (block) a word that is predominately used in Japanese (町/まち) to describe a ‘block’ or ‘neighbourhood’ with the best famous example being Taipei’s “Ximending” (西門町).

Considering Taoyuan has an area that we already refer to as the “Taoyuan Art District” (桃園藝文區), in order to save some confusion, instead of making use of the word “area” (區), they went with a character that is more commonly used in Japan, which in turn helps to identify that the culture park has Japanese-era buildings. 

When the park officially opened to the public in 2018, it quickly became a pretty popular location in downtown Taoyuan as it featured a coffee shop, a couple of restaurants and outside seating for anyone working in the area and wanting to enjoy their lunch outside.

As a culture park, the space is used in a variety of ways that includes reserving space to educate people on the history of the dorms in addition to offering space for local musicians and artists to perform.

It also provides space for weekend markets and food stalls where people can come and enjoy local culture.

As I outlined in a previous post, there is an aspect to this park that helps to ensure that traffic is constantly being driven through the doors. The dorms that have been restored and re-opened to the public have space reserved for historic purpose, but a couple of them have been reserved as space for private businesses to set up shop. 

The Taoyuan City Government registered the dormitories as Protected Historic Buildings (歷史建築) in August of 2013 (民國102年), and shortly thereafter plans were made to restore the buildings and open them up to the public. From their designation as historic properties to the completion of the restoration project, the cultural affairs bureau had an ample amount of time to come up with ideas with regard to the best usage of these spaces. With so much investment in the opening of ‘culture parks’ around Taoyuan though, it is understandable that the government had trouble coming up with ideas on how to fill the space properly.

Link: Longtan Teachers Dorms (龍潭國小老師宿舍)

So, in a case similar to the historic police and teachers dorms in neighbouring Zhongli, the government made use of existing ‘operate transfer’ laws to seek out the participation of the private sector by opening up bids that would make the space available for the short-term rental of the dorms for private purposes. 

These public-private participation partnerships are something that you’ll find is taking place all over Taiwan and has become quite instrumental when it comes to the preservation of historic properties.

Come True Coffee

If you’d like to learn more about how these partnerships are used to help conserve historic buildings in Taiwan, check out the link below: 

Link: The Role Of Public-Private Partnerships In Conserving Historic Buildings In Taiwan

Taking into consideration that most of these partnerships expire after a term of five years, as I’m writing this article, some of the businesses that have opened up shop within the park have already reached the halfway point of their rental agreement. I can’t speak as to whether any of them will renegotiate their rental agreements when their contracts are up, so I won’t talk too much about what you’ll find inside, but I’ll give them a quick mention. 

  1. ComeTrue Coffee (成真咖啡)

  2. Seafood Club Japanese Cuisine (魚鮮會社)

  3. 77 Craft Studio + Gift Shop (手作創意體驗坊/小賣文創商店)

I suppose the standout of the bunch is ComeTrue Coffee, which is a pretty popular spot with tourists and locals alike. There’s something about being able to sit in one of these beautiful buildings and enjoying coffee, tea and dessert that attracts a lot of people. 

If you’d like to go, I recommend calling ahead to make a reservation or getting your name on the waiting list as soon as you show up at the park. Getting a seat can be a little difficult! 

Given that the park is home to four dormitories and three of them are occupied by private businesses, the one you’ll want to pay attention to if you’re interested in learning about history is the largest of them, named the “Six Arts Exhibition Space” (六藝展覽坊).  

There are three exhibition spaces within with one of the spaces acting as permanent exhibition about the history of the dorms with original pieces of the buildings that have been preserved in addition to other interesting historic information about the buildings and the development of Taoyuan during the colonial era. 

There is a strange, yet somewhat practical addition to the park in the form of a pavilion known as the “Make a Wish Pavilion” (祈福亭), where you’ll find traditional Japanese wooden ema (絵馬) fastened to the back. The strange thing about this is that in Japan, these wooden ema plaques are typically only found at Buddhist temples or Shinto Shrines. 

In Japan, prayers and wishes are written on the wooden plaques and are then left hanging up at the shrine where the spirits or gods can see them. 

Link: Ema (Shinto) 

The obvious question one might have if you’re familiar with these things is why you’ll find ema hanging at this culture park. I guess the best way to explain this is that here in Taiwan, these wooden plaques are often easily identifiable as “Japanese” culturally-speaking. So, when you travel around Taiwan and you encounter something Japanese, you’ll sometimes find that space is offered for hanging these plaques.

Practically speaking, the pavilion is functional in that it cleverly hides the public washrooms that have been constructed to its rear. In this way you have an attractive pavilion, which is pretty much Instagram gold and also obscures an addition to the park that would take away from the ambiance, if it weren’t there.

One of the great things about this little park is that you can enjoy the beauty of the four dorms while also learning about their history, enjoying some coffee, making crafts or attending the various activities and events that they have planned. There’s always something to do when you visit, which should make you want to stop by whenever you’re in the area to see what’s going on!

Getting There

 

Address: #5, Lane 77 Zhongzheng Road, Taoyuan District (桃園市桃園區中正路77巷5號)

GPS: 24.991770 121.311750

The Taoyuan Police Dorms, otherwise known as the Taoyuan 77 Art Zone is located within the downtown core of Taoyuan District and is a short walk away from the Taoyuan Railway Station. With that in mind, if you plan on visiting and you’re coming from outside of Taoyuan, I highly recommend just taking the train and walking. 

Train

If you take a train to Taoyuan Railway Station (桃園火車站), it doesn’t matter if you’re coming from the north or the south, you can hop on any of Taiwan’s trains, express or not and they’ll all stop at the station.

From the front of the station (前站), you’ll simply walk down Zhongzheng Road passing by the Tonlin Department Store (統領百貨) and turning left down Lane 77 (中正路77巷), which is located just past the large Land Bank of Taiwan (台灣土地銀行桃園分行). Lane 77, which is pretty much the namesake for the culture park is a narrow one, but don’t worry too much,  you’ll find the entrance to the park quite quickly.  

Car/Scooter

If you are driving a car or a scooter, getting to the dorms should be pretty easy, but parking on the other hand is completely different story. Simply input the address into your GPS or Google Maps and you’ll find yourself at the front entrance to the park in no time. 

If you’re driving a car, you’re going to have to look around to find some parking and even if you’re lucky enough to find a spot on the street, you’re still going to have to pay. There are a number of parking lots in the area, but getting a spot tends to be quite competitive, especially on weekends, so you may find yourself waiting in line for quite a while to get a spot. 

Nearby Parking lots

  1. 文昌公園 公有地下停車場 (40NT/hour)

  2. 新民機械立體停車場 (30NT/hour)

  3. 大林路停車場 (50-60NT)

  4. 嘟嘟房 (40NT/hour)

  5. Times平面停車場 (70-100NT/hour)

Similarly, there is an ample amount of parking spaces on the street available for scooters near the park.

That being said, they’re usually full most of the time and you might have to circle around for quite a while before you find a spot. If you are driving a scooter, you need to make sure you don’t park illegally as the authorities in downtown Taoyuan are quick to issue fines or have the tow truck come to take your scooter away.   

While you’re in the area, I highly recommend checking out the nearby Jingfu Temple (景福宮), which is known locally as Taoyuan’s Big Temple (桃園大廟) and the newly opened Japanese-era Taoyuan Kendo Museum (桃園劍道故事館) next door. Likewise you could also check out the Taoyuan Night market (桃園夜市) or hop on a bus or Youbike and head over the Tiger Head Mountain (虎頭山) to check out the Taoyuan Confucius Temple (桃園孔廟) or the Taoyuan Shinto Shrine (桃園神社), all of which are within walking distance from the railway station. 

The ‘Taoyuan 77 Artzone’ can be a pretty busy spot and the coffee shop within is usually packed with visitors, so if you’re planning a visit on the weekend, remember to head over a bit early so that you can better enjoy the beautiful little park within the busy city. 

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday from 11:00am - 9:00pm (Closed on Mondays and National Holidays)

Website: Taoyuan 77 Art Zone (桃園77藝文町) 

ComeTrue Coffee (成真咖啡): Monday - Friday from 10:00 - 9:00 (Weekends: 9:30 - 9:00)

References

  1. 桃園77藝文町 (桃園觀光導覽網)

  2. 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 (桃園市政府文化局)

  3. 桃園77藝文町 (Wiki)

  4. 桃園77藝文町。桃園警察局日式宿舍群歷史建築。重修後活化為文創園區 (1817BOX)

  5. 桃園警察局日式宿舍群 (文化局)


Hsinchu Aqueduct (新竹街水道取水口)

Having visited Rome a few years back, and consequently writing a bunch of blog articles about the city and its history, I quickly learned about the importance of aqueducts, and how access to fresh and clean running water were essential in creating an empire. 

A thousand years later, another empire-in-the-making on the other side of the world had just taken control of its first overseas colony, and found itself faced with the same problems as the Romans. 

When the Japanese took control of Taiwan, they were confronted with a savage environment that had yet to be tamed or developed. It was obvious that the island was a treasure trove of natural resources that would contribute immensely to an empire bent on further expansion, but first the land had to be tamed and infrastructure had to be put in place to ensure that in the long-term, they would be able to reap the benefits of the islands full potential. 

Despite many attempts, no foreign power had been able to occupy Taiwan before the arrival of the Japanese in 1895. Shortly after their arrival they quickly got to work on an ambitious military plan to ensure that they were able to completely control the island. This meant that not only the land would have to be tamed for development, but the people living in the country would have to accept colonial rule.

When it came to the latter, there was massive resistance, and the Japanese did what every other colonial regime has done throughout history - violently silenced any resistance.

That being said when it came to taming the land, it was one of the areas where the Japanese suffered the most, as the vast majority of military deaths in the early years of the occupation were due to unfavorable living conditions, and most notably, constant outbreaks of malaria.

For centuries, malaria had ranked as the most lethal disease in Taiwan, causing the deaths of people as famous as Koxinga (鄭成功), and (possibly) even Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (北白川宮能久親王), a member of the Japanese royal family and one of the generals who led the Imperial Army’s expedition into Taiwan.

Note: There is considerable debate on the actual cause of his death.

When the Japanese started taking official records, both malaria and cholera were reported as the deadliest diseases in the country. So, to combat these problems, the colonial government invested heavily in developing an effective sanitation system, which included offering running water, sewage, storm drains, and improving the public health situation by ensuring that every community had access to a medical clinic.

They likewise included local citizens in their effort to eradicate the cholera problem by offering a bounty on dead rats, resulting in a somewhat comical situation where people would offer up a collection of rats bodies for a cash reward. 

There are many things that can be said about governance during the Japanese-era, but the pace at which the Japanese developed Taiwan put the word ‘efficiency’ to an entirely new level, and as modern development took place around the island, these often fatal diseases gradually started disappearing, greatly benefitting the people of Taiwan and improving quality of life. 

Part of the effort mentioned above was to start construction on water distribution facilities across the island. Starting in 1899 (明治32年), water services were supplied to Tamsui and within a few years, networks in Keelung, Taipei, Beitou, Changhua, Kaohsiung, Chiayi, Taichung, and Tainan were all gradually added to the list. Amazingly, by 1937 (昭和12年), there were almost ninety cities, towns and villages around Taiwan that were supplied with water service. 

Link: Yuanshan Shinto Shrine (圓山水神社)

And yes, if you haven’t already guessed, one of the factors that contributed to this sudden improvement in quality of life, and the eradication of deadly diseases in Taiwan was thanks to the construction of aqueducts, which made fresh and clean water available to pretty much everyone in Taiwan. 

Today I’ll be introducing the Japanese-era aqueduct in Hsinchu, which has recently been restored and reopened to the public as a culture museum and tourist destination on the growing list of Japanese-era buildings in the city that have been restored.  

Hsinchu Aqueduct (新竹水道取水口)

To better understand the history of the Hsinchu aqueduct, it’s probably a good idea to start by explaining a bit of history about Hsinchu during the colonial era. During that half century period, Taiwan’s administrative divisions were altered quite a few times before everything eventually settled down and became permanent. The reason for this is due to the fact that the boundaries of many of Taiwan’s major cities and towns started taking shape during this time thanks to the the construction of the railway, and the Japanese government’s various urban planning and development projects. 

Prior to the 1920s, Hsinchu was just a small portion of the much larger Taihoku, which spanned from what we know as modern day Taipei to Yilan and as far south as Hsinchu. That all changed between 1920 and 1926 when the colonial government instituted a re-districting scheme, referred to as the Dōka policy (同化), which essentially split Taiwan up into eight prefectures (5州3廳) and aligned Taiwan’s administrative divisions with the rest of Japan. 

As of 1920, Taiwan’s administrative divisions were as follows: 

  • Taihoku Prefecture (臺北州 / たいほくしゅう) / Modern day: Taipei 

  • Shinchiku Prefecture (新竹州 / しんちくしゅう) Modern day: Hsinchu

  • Taichu Prefecture (臺中州 / たいちゅうしゅう)  Modern day:  Taichung

  • Tainan Prefecture (臺南州 / たいなんしゅう) Modern day: Tainan

  • Takao Prefecture (高雄州 / たかおしゅう)  Modern day: Kaohsiung

  • Karenko Prefecture (花蓮港廳 / かれんこうちょう) Modern day: Hualien

  • Taito Prefecture (臺東廳 / たいとうちょう)  Modern day: Taitung

  • Hoko Prefecture (澎湖廳 / ほうこちょう) Modern day: Penghu

If you’re familiar with Taiwan’s geography today, you’ll notice that many of the Japanese-era prefectures remain mostly the same, but some have also been split up. Taihoku Prefecture for example once administered the areas we know today as Taipei, New Taipei City, Keelung and Yilan, all of which are administered on their own these days. 

The Hsinchu of the Japanese era was similar in that Shinchiku Prefecture included Hsinchu City (新竹市), Hsinchu County (新竹縣), Taoyuan City (桃園市) and Miaoli County (苗栗縣). By the 1920s, Shinchiku Prefecture was home to one city (市/街) and eight districts (郡), following the standard structural hierarchy system set up by the re-districting scheme. 

Within that scheme there were three major levels:

  • Level 1: Prefecture (州廳)

  • Level 2: City (市) / District (郡) / Sub-prefecture (支廳)

  • Level 3: Town (街) / Village (莊) / Aboriginal Area (番地)

Old pipes along the side of the building.

Under this districting scheme, Shinchiku’s eight districts were divided up into at least forty five different towns and villages, with a population nearing one million people. 

Why am I mentioning all of this? Well, its quite simple - As Shinchiku grew into one of Taiwan’s more prosperous prefectures, its population rose in kind and the necessity for continued development, and more importantly public sanitation became necessary for the growth of the city.

Fortunately, in 1914 (大正3年) , years before the urban reform policy took effect, the Governor General’s office had already started drawing up plans to construct a network of waterways to supply the area with running water. Those plans however ran into financial difficulties as the construction of water facilities would cost at least 400% of the annual tax revenue collected in Hsinchu, and required various subsidies and long-term low-interest loans from the governor-generals office in order to get the project started. 

Construction on water facilities in the area however didn’t consist solely of the aqueduct that I’m introducing today, but also a nearby mountainside water treatment facility (水源地). Essentially the aqueduct was charged with collecting water from underground wells on the base of Shibajianshan (十八尖山), then sending it for processing to the water treatment facility putting it through the various purification facilities on-site before releasing it for distribution. 

Note: The water-pump facility (a short distance away) has likewise been slated for restoration, so it is likely to also open to the public sometime in the near future.

Once the (extended) planning process was complete and funding was secured, construction on the water system started in 1925 (大正14年), and was amazingly completed five years later in 1930 (昭和5年), providing water service to the growing city for the first time, and likewise assisting in the effort to curb the further spread of malaria. As the city grew however, that single high-powered motor became insufficient, so a second pump room had to be added in 1940 (昭和15年), with the addition to the existing building taking two years to construct.

With so many pieces involved in the water distribution network, construction on the system was a little more complicated than just the completion of the aqueduct building. Unfortunately it is rather difficult to find much in-depth information about the historic Hsinchu Water Distribution system, so after quite a bit of research I’ve gone ahead and translated a bit of a timeline for you including the dates when the projects were started and completed:

  1. Water Collection Well (集水井) - 1925/9 - 1926/11

  2. Aqueduct well (唧筒井) - 1926/2 - 1926/11

  3. Aqueduct pump-room (唧筒室) - 1926/7 - 1927/3

  4. Diversion Well (分水井) - 1926/7 - 1927/3

  5. Sedimentation Tank (沉澱池) - 1926/7 - 1927/5

  6. Sedimentation Well (沉澱井) - 1926/7 - 1927/5

  7. Filtration Pond (濾過池) - 1926/7 - 1927/5

  8. Filtration Well (濾過井) - 1927/7 - 1927/12

  9. Purification Pool (淨水池) - 1928/4 - 1928/10

  10. Water Machine Room (量水機室) - 1928/7 - 1928/11

  11. Pipe-making shop (鐵管敷設) - 1926/3 - 1929/2

Looking back, taking only five years to construct such a complex water distribution network is actually quite amazing, but from the old news articles I’ve read from the archives of the Taiwan Daily (台灣日日新報), the project was ‘delayed’ considerably and the period of construction on every piece of the network had to be extended, which would have been considered a pretty terrible thing for the Japanese authorities, who pride themselves on efficiency.

Construction was completed on February 20th, 1930 (昭和5年), but before turning on the taps, the network went through a period of inspection to ensure its safety before finally turning on water service for the people of Hsinchu City (新竹街) on April 24th of that same year. 

If you’ve arrived here thinking the Hsinchu Aqueduct might appear similar to what you’ve read about in History books with regard to its Roman counterparts, you might be a bit disappointed. This aqueduct doesn’t make use of large bridge-like structures, allowing water to be transported from one place to another; This is because the Japanese had access to something the Romans didn’t - high powered motors.

Essentially, the “aqueduct” was a pumping station (唧筒室) that, as mentioned above collected water from groundwater and underground fresh water sources, as well as the Long-en Water Conservatory (隆恩圳), located directly behind the station. From there the water was transported up-hill to the nearby processing facility and put into one of the six various artificial wells where it would eventually be sent down-hill again to the city. (As depicted in the diagram below)

Given the period when the aqueduct was constructed, it shouldn’t really surprise anyone that its architectural design follows the ‘Art-Deco' style that was popular with the Japanese architects of the era. That being said, as I mentioned earlier, a second pump-room extension was added thirteen years after the construction of the original building, so you’ll notice that there is a slight difference in the architectural styles between the front and rear section of the building.

The reason for the difference is quite simple, the first pump-room was constructed during the heyday of the Japanese Colonial Era, while the second part was added during the Second World War, when the government’s coffers were pretty tight. So when you look at the front section of the building, you’ll notice the beautiful fusion of Western-Japanese design (和洋混合建築風), making use of the flowing Art Deco style, while the section that was added later was just a simple reinforced concrete designed building without much fuss.

The exterior of the aqueduct features beautifully stone-washed beams and a portico entrance that extends from the front of the main building. The mixture of timber and concrete in the design really adds to the building, especially when you’re inside as you’ll notice that the wooden window panes on all four sides of the building allow for a considerable amount of natural light to come into the building, making electric lights pretty much unnecessary during the daylight hours.

Likewise, one of the things that makes this aqueduct stand out from other Japanese-era structures is that even though it appears to be at least two-stories high from the outside, if you enter from the main entrance, you walk into a completely open space that was constructed below ground level. So when you’re inside, the ground-level windows are actually a level above you. Very few buildings from that era were constructed underground, but considering where the pump was located, it was necessary. 

The front portico of the aqueduct building.

Interestingly, when the second pump-room was constructed, it was constructed on ground level only, and although it directly connected to the first pump room, it only featured a partial underground section where piping was located. This was likely part of an effort to save costs in construction, but could have also been thanks to an improvement in water-pump technology. 

Another area where the addition stands out is in the design of its roof, which could be considered a typical Japanese roof. The original pump room had an almost flat roof that made use of gutters to ensure that rain water wouldn’t accumulate on top. The second pump-room on the other hand featured a curved roof constructed primarily of timber and was covered in black roof tiles. When you’re inside the building, you’re able to look up and view the network of trusses and beams that hold the roof in place and help to distribute its weight to ensure stability. 

Looking up at the wooden ceiling

The original pump-station is a 99㎡ (30坪) building while the second pump room added another 79㎡ (24坪) and featured equipment imported directly from Germany and Japan. In the first pump-room, a 90-horsepower fuel-injected motor acted as the main pump with the help of a 75-horsepower back up. Later, the second pump-room added a newer 120-horsepower motor with the ability to pump around 6600 cubic meters of water per hour. 

When the colonial era ended, the aqueduct and the water distribution system was used for another couple of decades, but eventually the population of Hsinchu grew to a point where the water supply became insufficient, requiring the construction of reservoirs in the nearby mountains. This problem was confounded by the founding of the Hsinchu Science Park (新竹科學工業園區), which likewise required a considerable amount of water resources.

The aqueduct ceased operation in 1981 and shortly thereafter was abandoned. As the years went by, nature took over and the building almost disappeared as it was overtaken by a jungle-like environment. 

The Hsinchu City Government recognized the aqueduct as a protected historic property (市定古蹟) in 2011 and allocated funds for its restoration and conversion into a public museum.

If you click the link below, you can check out some of the photos of the building as the restoration project was first starting. One of the things that you’ll notice is that it was in pretty bad shape after being abandoned, and looks as if it was left open to the elements for quite a while. What confused me however was that someone added statues of standing Buddhas on the roof, with one of them ultimately losing its head for some reason.

I’m not particularly sure what the story was regarding them being placed on the roof, but sometimes these things are really random. 

Link: 新竹水道 取水口 (Blair and Kate's 旅遊與美食)

Restoration on the aqueduct building was completed in 2017, and was reopened to the public as the “Hsinchu Aqueduct Museum” (新竹取水口展示館), allowing visitors to tour the building and learn about the historic of water service in the area.

However, due to recent periods of drought, and the COVID-19 pandemic, the building has gone through frequent periods of closure. 

Ironically there is often a lack of water available at the former water-pumping station!  

The Hsinchu Aqueduct Museum (新竹取水口展示館)

With the restoration of the aqueduct building completed in 2017, the Hsinchu City Government opened up the building to the public as a cultural museum. The restoration process most notably not only included fixing up the old building, but restoring all of the old machinery housed within as well. Today when you visit the museum, you’ll find a number of informative exhibits about the history of water network in Hsinchu, and you’ll be able to check out the old water-pumps as well. 

A visit to the museum admittedly doesn’t take all that long as there are basically only two rooms to check out, but the local government has also provided spaces outside for people of all ages to enjoy, with a water-themed playground on the exterior of the building. 

Unfortunately, the museum is in a bit of an awkward location, and is an area that doesn’t really attract that many tourists as most people who visit Hsinchu tend to stick to areas on the other side of the railway.

It seems like they originally figured that people would be interested in visiting the museum in tandem with a visit to the giant “Taiwan” lantern that was presented at an overseas expo a year back, but declining interest in the expo lantern forced the government to close it up, and they’re currently in the process of demolishing the site.

Nevertheless, if you’re in Hsinchu and you’re looking for something to do, I highly recommend stopping by to check out the beautiful building and the informative displays they have made available.

Visiting is free of charge, and I’m sure that when you visit you’ll be able to enjoy a guided tour (if you’d like one) as the staff there are always happy to receive guests! 

Hours: Open Tuesday - Sunday from 9:00-12:00 and 1:00-5:00

In the future, the aqueduct museum will work hand-in-hand with the nearby Japanese-era water purification facilities that are currently under restoration. When they’ve got the rest of the network opened up for tourism, I’m sure there will be a bit more to see, and for me to introduce here.

Getting There

 

Address: No. 4, Dongshi Street, East District, Hsinchu City (新竹市東勢街4號)

GPS: 24.805520, 120.994270

Car / Scooter 

If you have access to a car or scooter, getting to the Aqueduct Museum should be quite straight-forward if you input the address or coordinates provided above into your GPS or Google Maps. Once you arrive, you’ll find that there an ample amount of parking spaces available for visitors, so you won’t have to worry about looking for a space. 

Public Transportation

If you’re relying on public transportation to get to the museum, you have a few options, but each of them is going to require a bit of a walk as the closest buses stops / trains are a short distance away from the museum. 

If you’re taking a train into Hsinchu, you can either get off at North Hsinchu Station (北新竹站) on a normal train, or Quanjia Station (千甲車站), if for some reason you find yourself on the Neiwan Rail line (內灣線).

From each station you can walk to the museum in less than fifteen minutes. However both stations have access to YouBikes, so you can easily grab a bicycle and ride over, making things easier. 

Link: Neiwan Old Street (內灣老街)

If you prefer to take a bus, you’re a bit more limited in your options, but you have the option of taking Hsinchu Bus #53, Shibo 3 (世博3號) or Shibo 5 (世博5號) to the ‘A-Mart Bus Stop’ (愛買二站) and then walking from there.

My only caution about that is that the ‘Shibo’ buses are limited in their service, and since you still need to walk for about five minutes, I’d recommend just walking from the train station or grabbing a YouBike. 

Even though visiting the Hsinchu Aqueduct Museum won’t take much of your time, it is a pretty cool place to visit as there are very few of these Japanese-era buildings left in Taiwan. There are of course other areas around Taiwan where you can find historic water-related buildings, but this building is able to stand out thanks to its beautiful architecture and for the location where it was constructed.

If you’re in the area, I recommend stopping by to check it out.