Keelung

People of the Night 18 (基隆廟口夜市)

The Keelung Miaokou Tourist Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) is often introduced by Travel guides as a MUST visit on any travellers as the night market is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country. In my first post of shots from the night market I focused on seafood dishes which the night market is the most famous for. Today's post however is all about MEAT, so if you're a vegan, avert your eyes. 

1. Taiwanese Pork Knuckle (豬腳) 

The first shot is of a vendor that sells Taiwanese style pork knuckle. I'm a big fan of this stall and I've sat down quite a few times for some of his pork knuckle rice (豬腳飯). This vendor is extremely busy and there is often a line which doesn't surprise me at all given how tasty his dishes are. You can buy rice dishes or the popular pork knuckle vermicelli (豬腳麵線) which is a favourite among Taiwanese guests. Taiwanese pork knuckle is a lot different than what you'd expect from its German counterpart as it is braised long enough that the meat is extremely tender and full of flavour. If you're in the night market and you see an empty seat at this stall, don't hesitate to grab that seat and feast on some of the excellent dishes he has available! 

2. Taiwanese Bite-Sized Sausage (一口吃香腸) 

A few years ago one of the MUST eats all over Taiwan was these bite-sized sausages. It seemed like every night market in Taiwan had some "Miaokou Bite-Sized Sausages" (廟口一口吃香腸). The craze over these sausages has settled down a lot since then but the original stall still remains and it is one of the most popular stalls in the market. The mini-sausages are prepared en masse and you order however many you want and they serve it to you in a paper bag filled with fresh cloves of garlic. If you've ever had Taiwanese sausage and garlic cloves together you'd probably agree with me that they were basically made for each other. Whenever I visit Miaokou I always buy a small bag full of these goodies and walk away happy. They're juicy and full of flavour! 

3. Spare-Rib Soup (燒排骨羹)

My mom makes a mean pot of sweet and sour spare ribs - a dish that whenever I think about it, I automatically feel like buying a ticket home. Not many things make me miss home as much as my mum’s home cooking. When it comes to spareribs though, Taiwan covers that craving quite well yet in a completely different way and one of my favourite noodle dishes here is steamed sparerib noodles (排骨酥麵).The spare-ribs used in this dish are steamed in what look like little round dim-sum containers. The texture and taste is completely different from what we get at home and the meat just falls off of the bone. The spareribs are placed on top of a tasty bowl of noodles with a clear broth and the soup basically absorbs the flavour of the ribs making it a really tasty dish - especially in the winter! 

4. Night Market Sashimi (生魚飯) 

Sushi is probably my favourite food. People often ask me: "If you love sushi so much, why didn't you move to Japan?" to which I reply: "Because the best sushi is in Taiwan" and that is something that I stand by. Taiwan does Japanese food extremely well and sushi is just one of those things that the Taiwanese have assimilated into their culinary specialities since the Japanese colonial era. The great thing about sushi in Taiwan is that the seafood is always fresh, the quality is much similar to what you'd get in Japan and its a fraction of the price. I'm not particularly a fan of eating sushi in the night market, but this is Keelung and the city is known for its sushi, so why not? The sashimi at this little bar is inexpensive, prepared beautifully and is really fresh. I learned not to discriminate night market sashimi from these guys and if you have an appetite for sashimi while browsing the night market you might want to stop here and give it a try! 

5. Chicken Rolls

Its not common that I say that I don't like something in Taiwan, but I have to say that I'm not a big fan of these chicken rolls. They are long, soggy-looking and come off as extremely unhealthy as they are full of oil. A "chicken roll" (雞卷) is basically chicken meat wrapped in chicken skin (雞皮) or tofu skin (豆皮) with vegetables like asparagus, leeks or carrots inside. They look tasty when they're cooked and cut up, but when you see them sitting there they don't look as appetizing. A year or two ago these things were extremely popular and people were waiting in lines to get them all over the country. The fad it seems has died off but you can still find them in night markets all over the country. What do you think? Have you had one of these? Did you enjoy it? Let me know! 

6. Honey Glazed BBQ (蜜汁烤肉) 

These types of stalls are quite easy to find all over Taiwan. I'm not sure if they're Taiwanese in origin or not (if anyone knows, let me know) but basically they are a form of BBQ with all of the various meats, tofus and tempura being put on a revolving hook while it is roasted. All of the food is brushed with a kind of honey and as it cooks it becomes a bit sweet. When you want to order something from one of these stalls you just grab a bowl, pick up a pair of tongs and put what you want in the bowl and the boss will prepared it all for you and add some spice if you like. These stalls are pretty good for getting a large variety of foods all mixed in together and is quite cheap (yet not very healthy) if you are making it for your dinner. 


That's it for today. I'll be back later this week with the final post from the Miaokou Night Market - If you like what you've seen so far make sure to check out some of the other night markets I've covered below!  

People of the Night 17 (基隆廟口夜市)

It has been a while since I posted photos in my "People of the Night" series of street photos from Taiwan's night markets - Last year I had introduced several of Taiwan's night markets and the people who make them what they are but after fifteen posts I was feeling like I had to move on and put the project on hiatus. I still have plans for other night markets but they will come out periodically over the next year or so.

With this new series from the Keelung Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) I'm going to combine photos that were taken last year with some new shots that I took over recent weeks and split it into three different posts with a gallery of all the photos used in the posts as well as those that didn't make the cut in the final post. I will also do what I have normally done by explaining some of the interesting and unique aspects of this particular night market and the people who I've come to recognize after visiting so many times.

The Keelung Miaokou Tourist Night Market is often introduced by Travel guides as a MUST visit on any travellers as the night market is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country.

1. Crab Soup (螃蟹羹)

This first post in the Miaokou Night market series is going to deal with seafood. This night market is particularly well known for seafood so I’m going to start out with a thick soup known as “geng” (羹 or 焿) that has several stalls throughout the market. This type of soup is thick, hearty, full of flavour and also has quite a bit of crab meat inside. Almost all of the crab soup stalls seem to be owned by the Wu family (吳記) and there are several stalls throughout the night market and they likely all serve the same uniform version of soup. Keelung is a coastal city and the area supplies northern Taiwan with most of its seafood. Tourists travel to the city and to the night market for cheap and fresh seafood and this soup is a popular example of that. 

2. Takoyaki (たこ焼き) / Octopus Balls (章魚燒) 

Takoyaki is a popular Japanese delicacy that originated in Osaka and made its way to Taiwan. You can find Takoyaki stalls all over the country and in any night market. Takoyaki is essentially a ball-shaped snack made of a wheat-flour based batter and a chunk of octopus tentacle in the middle. The balls are prepared on a special molded pan and when they're ready they are placed in a paper tray and the chef applies a special Takoyaki ponzu sauce and another sauce of your choice (I always choose wasabi) and then topped with bonito flakes. These are one of my favourite snacks here in Taiwan and they are always really cheap. In this night market you can be sure that the seafood is fresh meaning that you are likely to have one of the better Takoyaki experiences of your life in Keelung!

3. Giant Shrimp (大蝦) 

Shrimp is a popular dish at this night market and this stall sells a variety of large fresh shrimp to customers all prepared in different flavours. It is common in other markets around the country to find vendors selling Thai shrimp in a variety of flavours but not in the Keelung night market - these are all fresh shrimp taken from the ocean near Taiwan. Stalls like this can be expensive depending on the size of the shrimp and the price depends on the market value of the day. I'm a big fan of Pepper shrimp (胡椒蝦) and Spicy Sichuan (麻辣蝦) flavours while friends of mine like the garlic and lemon flavours. If you're visiting the Miaokou night market you may want to splurge a little to get some of the seafood that the market is famous for and this is probably a pretty good choice!

4. Fried Shrimp and Bite Sized Crabs (蝦猴 / 一口蟹)

Taiwanese people love deep-fried foods, they're also big fans of fresh seafood and anything bite-sized (一口吃). What better combination could there be than bite-sized crabs deep fried with Japanese tempura? This is a popular stall within the night market as the prices are set and the boss just fries up a bag of deep-fried shellfish goodness for customers. The shells of the crabs and shrimp at this stall are edible and you don't have to worry about making a mess with your hands! There are different size portions available and the boss will also sprinkle some chilli sauce or or the absolutely delicious Taiwanese style mixed salt/pepper concoction (胡椒鹽) to make it even more delicious!

5. BBQ Seafood (海鮮烤肉)

This particular vendor is a fun one to visit as its not your typical night market stall. It's more of a restaurant that has tables and seating along the side of the road. You just order the seafood you want and the chef will grill it up for you and serve it to your table. Vendors like this typically also have draft beer on tap and you can leisurely sit down with friends and have a big feed of fresh seafood while thousands of people walk past you. Stalls like this remind me of the Temple Street Night Market in Hong Kong where you take a seat along the road and order some really amazing HK-style crab dishes. Here in Taiwan though vendors like this specialize in Japanese-style grilling and the flavours of the seafood are more important than what was used to season it. Stalls like this can be a bit pricey but they are fun and the food is always really good!

Dianji Temple (基隆廟口奠濟宮)

Travel guides insist that if you are taking a trip to Taiwan that one of the MUSTS on any travellers itinerary should be an evening at the Keelung Miaokou Night Market (廟口夜市) which is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country.

Most people however are unaware that the name "Miaokou" (廟口) refers to a 'temple front' and that the popularity of the night market today is directly related to the importance of the temple from which the night market ultimately became an extension.

Today, whenever there is a temple celebration the festive carnival-like atmosphere brings with it countless number of visitors as well as vendors who set up shop and aim to feed the masses. If you visit ANY temple celebration in Taiwan, the vendors won't be far away and it is always easy to find something delicious. In the past this was also true of temple celebrations, but temples also tended to be more of a focal point of towns and cities and businesses always wanted to be as close as possible to a temple for both economic and superstitious reasons.

The Miaokou night market we see today is a direct result of this type of phenomenon as well as some pretty great urban planning that allowed the night market to become a permanent and very organized tourist attraction in the heart of Keelung's downtown core.

The temple that sits within the heart of the night market is named Dianji Temple (奠濟宮) and is separated from the hustle and bustle only by a giant ornate open temple gate that automatically gives the impression that the temple inside is a sight to be seen!

The temple is the largest of the 'big three temples' of Keelung (基隆三大廟) which also includes the City God Temple (城隍廟) and Ching-An Temple (慶安宮) all of which are Taoist, a short walking distance from each other as well as a short distance from the harbour showing the significance of the harbour to the early settlers of the city.

The temple was established in 1875 after a generous land donation by a wealthy local merchant and was built on the site of an older shrine to the Water God (水仙尊王). In 1923 the main shrine was completed and is dedicated to the Sage King Kaizhang (開漳聖王) otherwise known as Duke Chen (陳元光) a Hoklo (閩南) folklore hero from Fujian province in China who died in 722 and who is worshipped today by the Hoklo people for his loyalty (忠義之神) and also for his role in developing a Fujian province (福建省) in southern China (where most of Taiwan's early immigrations came from).

Main Hall 

The main hall of the temple was originally finished in 1923 but was unfortunately short lived due to allied bombing of Keelung harbour in 1940. Keelung was an important staging point for the Japanese imperial navy and the city was high easily during the American advance toward mainland Japan. Reconstruction work began on the temple in 1957 lasting until 1964. In 1998 the temple initiated a five year expansion plan to build a more impressive rear hall with several different floors.

If you visit the temple today the main shrine room is dedicated to the Sage King Kaizhang with offices to the side. Behind the main shrine is a really cool looking shrine to the Water God who is in the form of Yu the Great (大禹) an emperor from the Xia Dynasty (夏朝) who was celebrated for his knowledge of irrigation and flood control. Interestingly children who are brought up in Taiwan are very familiar with Yu the Great as they are taught rhymes and stories (大禹治水) about him in their Chinese classes to teach about wisdom, perseverance and hard work.

The second floor shrine is dedicated to Marshal Tian Du (田都元帥) another historical figure from the Tang Dynasty (唐代) whose actual name was Lei Hai-Qing (雷海青) and is important to artists, musicians and performers. It is quite common in Taiwan that Taiwanese Opera performers will pay respects to him before a big show.

As with most multi-level Taoist temples, the highest floor of the temple is dedicated to the Jade Emperor (玉皇大帝) who is the most important of all the Taoist gods and presides over heaven. Statues of the Jade Emperor always look pretty cool but I actually prefer the Taoist gods who represent the underworld like the City God or the Qingshan King whose purpose is to judge people based on their actions.

Apart from the main shrines on each floor there are also shrines in the rooms dedicated to the Goddess Mazu (天上馬祖), Master Pure-Yang (純陽祖師) otherwise known as the Tang Dynasty poet Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓), The master carpenter Lu Ban (魯班/荷葉先師), Marshal Guanyu (關聖大帝), The God of Literature (文昌大帝), The Earth God (土地公/福德正神), Star Lord Tai Sui (太歲星君) and the God of Wealth (財神) as well as other historical figures of which there are too many to name! 

One of the important things to notice at Dianji if you are a random traveller is that while the temple does feature stone carvings of dragons, phoenixes and other mystical creatures you are also able to see colourful fish, crabs and other sea life carved onto the walls. This is significant because of the importance of the temple, it's location next to the sea and pays homage to the seafaring ways of the residents of Keelung.

The temple tends to be quite busy on weekends, during festivals and also during Ghost Month when the entire city of Keelung becomes extremely busy. During the week it's quite easy to walk into the temple and be able to casually look around without crowds of people getting in your way. The important thing when you visit this temple (and any temple for that matter) is the pay close attention to the details on the walls. The Taiwanese artisans that worked to put the temple together had extreme cases of OCD and the symbolism in all of the imagery deserves a bit of your time.

I'm going to continue with blogs from Keelung over the next week or two with posts from the Miaokou night market as a continuation of my "People of the Night" series (which was put on hold for a while). This temple and the night market really are must visits if you're on a visit to Taiwan - So just jump on a train and head to Keelung to check out both!