Street

Monga (艋舺)

The oldest district in the modern metropolis of Taipei goes by many names - To some it is “Bangka” (Báng-kah khu) or “Monga” (艋舺) and to others it is “Wanhua” (萬華區). Whatever you prefer to call the district, it is one of the most important districts in the city and is steeped in history, culture and religion. 

Once one of the most prosperous districts in the city due to its proximity to the Xindian River (新店溪), the district served as a centre of commerce for over three hundred years. The area was originally settled by the Pinpu Kaitakela tribe, then Hokkien (閩南人) immigrants from Fujian Province and most recently by Chinese refugees of the civil war. 

Today the district is in a period of decline and has an aging population that is regarded as the “fattest” in the city - It is well known for its historic sites which include Longshan Temple (龍山寺), Taipei’s most popular temple as well as the Qingshui Temple (艋舺清水巖), Bopiliao Historic Street (剝皮寮老街) Huaxi Night Market (華西街夜市) and Ximending (西門町), Taipei’s answer to the hip and modern Shibuya shopping district in Tokyo. 

If you want to experience the historical side of Taipei, there is no better place to visit than Bangka. This area is unlike any other area of Taipei - Not only will you find history, but walking around gives you the distinct feeling that you travelled back in time to an older, livelier and somewhat seedier version of the city. 

So far my series on Bangka has been split up into three sections. The next three sections will be some simple street photography and I plan on ending it all with a post on Longshan Temple. These posts will consist of street photos of the residents of Bangka around the park, in the temple and on the streets in the historic area of the district. This area is a great area for street photography and I hope to show a bit of what life is like in the district through the photos. 


Qingshan Temple and King Festival (青山宮/青山靈安尊王) 

Part 1 | Part Two | Temple

Street Photography posts

Bangka Park | The temple | Streets of Bangka

1. A Gathering of the Minds.

Longshan temple is a really scared place in Taiwan and its constantly full of activity – That doesn't mean it can't be a place for people to hang out as well. In this shot you can see four Buddhist women sitting off to the side of the main temple having a chat and using their prayer beads. Buddhist practice can sometimes be a solitary thing so it's important for people to have a bit of fellowship from time to time. 

2. Reciting Sutras

This photo caught my attention because the woman was sitting against the wall reciting sutras like a lot of the other people at the temple but she was also wearing one of the uniforms that the women who chant every night at the temple. I had missed the chanting time which is generally one of the most important and busiest times of the day at the temple, but she seemed to have stuck around for a little more work.

3. Prayer Beads

This guy was sitting in the middle of the thick of things where people are lighting their incense and doing the majority of their prayers facing the main shrine. He just sat himself down and was using his prayer beads at the same time. I was lucky to catch him looking directly at me at the same time I took the photo. Prayer beads generally wrap around your wrists but this guy the XL version and was busy reciting while looking at the weird-looking foreign guy!

4. Offering Incense. 

Whenever I visit Longshan it is usually in the early evening or at night. When I visited this time I was there in the early afternoon. This kind of shot is quite common and isn't very special but the reason I include it here and not in the gallery below is because I like the light. It's not common to get this kind of light and I like the way it shines on the young woman and the incense urn in front of here.

5. Temple Security

This shot interested me because I noticed the monk was hanging out in the security office while the security guard was watching people outside the door. They both seemed to notice me at the same time and glanced over as I took the shot. It's interesting to see security at a temple in Taiwan but Longshan temple isn't your typical temple so it's probably not that strange.

Hands and feet

Hands and beads

6. Hands

I'm always interested when I'm at the temple to get shots of peoples hands. I'm including these two shots for different reasons. The first shot is of a woman reciting Buddhist sutras while another woman is walking by in high-heels at the main hall of the temple. The second shot is of a woman with prayer beads hidden in the corner of one of the rear hall shrines. She was hidden from plain sight, so I focused on her hands and what she was doing instead and I like the result. 


Gallery

Bangka (艋舺)

The oldest district in the modern metropolis of Taipei goes by many names - To some it is “Bangka” (Báng-kah khu) or “Monga” (艋舺) and to others it is “Wanhua” (萬華區). Whatever you prefer to call the district, it is one of the most important districts in the city and is steeped in history, culture and religion. 

Once one of the most prosperous districts in the city due to its proximity to the Xindian River (新店溪), the district served as a centre of commerce for over three hundred years. The area was originally settled by the Pinpu Kaitakela tribe, then Hokkien (閩南人) immigrants from Fujian Province and most recently by Chinese refugees of the civil war. 

Today the district is in a period of decline and has an aging population that is regarded as the “fattest” in the city - It is well known for its historic sites which include Longshan Temple (龍山寺), Taipei’s most popular temple as well as the Qingshui Temple (艋舺清水巖), Bopiliao Historic Street (剝皮寮老街) Huaxi Night Market (華西街夜市) and Ximending (西門町), Taipei’s answer to the hip and modern Shibuya shopping district in Tokyo. 

If you want to experience the historical side of Taipei, there is no better place to visit than Bangka. This area is unlike any other area of Taipei - Not only will you find history, but walking around gives you the distinct feeling that you travelled back in time to an older, livelier and somewhat seedier version of the city. 

So far my series on Bangka has been split up into three sections. The next three sections will be some simple street photography and I plan on ending it all with a post on Longshan Temple. These posts will consist of street photos of the residents of Bangka around the park, in the temple and on the streets in the historic area of the district. This area is a great area for street photography and I hope to show a bit of what life is like in the district through the photos. 


Qingshan Temple and King Festival (青山宮/青山靈安尊王) 

Part 1 | Part Two | Temple

Street Photography posts

Bangka Park | The temple | Streets of Bangka

1. Old Lion

The Longshan Temple area has a lot of ancient images of lions, phoenixes, dragons and other mythical Chinese creatures. The temple front park especially has a lot of cool looking statues dedicated to these legendary creatures. In this shot there is an elderly man sitting in front of a bronze lion at the gates of the park. I chose to title it “Old Lion” because of a play on words in Chinese that sounds like the word “teacher.”

2. Pillar of the Community

The majority of the people who hang out in the Longshan temple front park are elderly members of society. Bangka is one of the oldest and coincidentally most unhealthy districts of Taipei and that fact is put on display in front of the temple where people so often go to hangout. The aging population of the district has become a major problem in recent years despite efforts by the city government to revitalize things as young people leave for other areas of the city. It would be sad if the Bangka district lost both its identity and distinct culture when these people pass on.

3. Reflection

One of the difficulties street photographers deal with are ethical dilemmas - Street photography is all about taking photos of the human condition but it is generally frowned upon to take pictures of people who are homeless or otherwise suffering in some way. I thought long and hard about whether or not I should post this shot as I'mnot entirely convinced that this guy is homeless and it could be that he had just finished a long day of work. What I like about the shot is the expression on his face and the way he has his hands cupping his face and staring off into the distance.

4. Going Solo

Any time you visit Bangka park or any large park in Taiwan for that matter you will no doubt notice groups ofold men playing Chinese checkers. My photographer friend Darren loves shooting these guys in action as they are always deep in concentration while playing. There are usually crowds of other people standing around and analyzing every move the players make. It is an interesting contrast to North American parks where people play chess. In this shot a man is enjoying a solo practice game on his own and probably waiting for a worthy competitor. It's not a common sight at this park to see an empty checkers table so I did my best to get the shot quickly.

5. Reading

Most of the people who hang out at the park spend their days chatting with friends, drinking eating and hanging out. This guy interested me because he was very involved in whatever he was reading even as the people around him attempted to strike up a conversation. The park is full of people but it's not an overly loud place most of the time. It's probably a nice place to sit next to a dragon and read a good book while people pass by.


Gallery 

Old Doors

I've recently come to the odd realization that over the past few years I've subconsciously become strangely attracted to taking shots of the entrances of people's homes. It came to my attention while I was sorting though my catalogue of photos on my computer and moving files over to one of my external hard drives.  

It is just me or does it seem strange for a photographer to randomly take pictures of the entrance to someone else's home? I thought about it for a while and decided to do a Google search to try to find out if other people had a similar interest or if there were some sort of deep rooted psychological problem behind it. Unfortunately, just like all my Google searches, I eventually just started watching YouTube and wasted a few hours of my day on something completely unrelated. 

Have a seat, we'll be right with you. 

A door with parking. 

However, after thinking about it for the past few weeks I've come to the conclusion that there are a few things that interest me about these doors. The first is more of a cultural difference - homes in Taiwan are much different than what I am used to back in Canada and older homes here tend to be much simpler than the more modern versions. Homes in Taiwan tend to be built on top of each other and there is no space in between them and of course no room for a yard. 

The other reason I suppose is a bit more philosophical in that doors can offer a glimpse of the life of a family while also offering a bit of mystery. Doors provide both protection and privacy and when you see someone outside of their home, you often wonder if they are the same person behind closed doors. 

In this way doors may seem like the close us off from the rest of humanity, but they also provide a sense of safety from persecution and allow people to be who they want to be in the privacy of their own homes. 

Epic Door Bell

Old sliding panel doors

To make this all seem a little less strange, I think I should clarify what I actually mean by "doors." What I'm actually referring to are Taiwanese homes with old-style doors. When I say "old-style" doors, I'm referring to the type that aren't the reinforced steel garage doors that are controlled by a remote control which bar up a home as if it were a jail. 

I'm taking shots of older homes with wooden doors or Japanese sliding doors. What attracts me to them is that while the house is usually falling apart, the doors are usually brightly coloured and they look really cool aesthetically in contract to the home and even the neighbourhood around them. If you have a chance to walk through an older neighbourhood in Taiwan you should pay attention to these doors as they usually stand out. 

Anyway, now that I've noticed this recent interest, I'll try to share a bit more from time to time. I have a library full of shots that I took but haven't bothered working on however all of the shots I'm sharing today are relatively new and were all taken in Daxi (大溪), Hukou (湖口), Beipu (北埔)Taipei (台北) and on Keelung's Peace Island (和平島) 

I found this old home in the old residential section behind Beipu Old Street (北埔老街) and really liked the colours of the house, the fading Chinese characters that were beside the door and the sun that was setting at the time that I took the shot. 

This door was probably once really pretty, but for security reasons the owner of the house put up bars around the windows to make it hard for anyone to break in. I'm pretty sure the door would be easy enough to kick down, but its the thought that counts. This one was on Peace Island in Keelung where a lot of the buildings are quite old. 

These two doors were in a military village in Taipei. In the shot on the left, the blue door has the word 「好」on it which means good. The door on the right has an upside down 「春」which refers to "spring" or new beginnings. It is common to place wishes on doors during the Spring Festival in China and Taiwan and most houses will have some sort of greeting on them. Military villages across the country are disappearing and this one has been preserved. I question a bit of its authenticity, but I do like the faded concrete with the bright painted doors.   

Taiwanese Political Divide? 

The last shot I'm going to share is one that I took before realizing I had this strange obsession. I don't think I took this shot because of that though. What I noticed while walking by was the colours. To me it was almost a harmonious reflection of Taiwan's less-than-harmonious political spectrum. The green door on the left represents the Pan-Green coalition of political parties which work towards dejure independence and nationhood (which I find strange since Taiwan is already a country) and the blue door represents the Pan-Blue coalition led by the Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) which favours better ties and ultimate reunification with China. The fact that both of these can live together in harmony though is a reflection of Taiwanese society. 


Gallery