People of the Night 13 (興仁夜市)

The Hsing-Ren Garden Night Market (興仁花園夜市) is a newly-opened night market located in Bade City (八德) in Taoyuan County. The night market is over 6000 square meters making it possibly the largest in northern Taiwan. While shooting this night market, I have to say that it has quickly become one of my favourite night markets to visit out of all of them.

It has almost everything I could want! Not only does this night market have all the typical night market fare you would expect, but it also has vendors selling fresh oysters and fresh Thai shrimp. There's San Francisco style pizza by the slice, American grilled steaks, Hong Kong Dim Sum, Ramen, Mongolian BBQ and Taiwanese Indigenous BBQ. There are places to sit down to drink some fresh draft beer with friends and places to buy cocktails mixed with fresh juice! What else could you want in a night market? You can eat, drink, and have fun all night long. 

The Hsing-Ren Night Market is a "garden" or "flower" (花園) night market which is the "new" thing here in Taiwan popularized by the Tainan Garden Night Market (台南花園夜市) and the Fu Da Garden Night Market (輔大花園夜市) in New Taipei City. 

These kind of night markets are quite popular among younger crowds and a lot of the food that has swept the nation over the past few years have been products of these style night markets as they attract younger people who are more willing to try new and more exotic foods.   

I will make four posts in this series with over thirty shots and I hope that you will like what I have for you! 

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1. BBQ Squid (烤魷魚) 

I love this shot, so I figured it would be best to start this series with it. This shot took some quick thinking and some quick finger movement on my camera to get the effect I wanted. While I was walking by I noticed that the boss was starting to sprinkle sesame seeds over the squid on his grills, so I thought it would look cool if I captured some of those sesame seeds in motion. I've talked about BBQ squid in the past and how much I love it, but here we are with a full spread of squid, a couple on the grill and the boss hard at work. Squid in any form is something I will always identify with "Taiwan" as I've never been to any country that has as much appreciation for the creation as much as the Taiwanese! 

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2. Japanese Grilled Chicken Kebabs (烤雞肉串) 

It seems like Japanese style BBQ chicken and Teppanyaki-style (鐵板燒) chicken have become quite popular at night markets over the past year or two. This specific vendor sells his chicken on a kebab with some green onions and a kind of teriyaki style sauce spread over them. The chicken is always really tender and full of flavour. They are sold for just over a dollar each and are a really great appetizer before having a sit down meal at Hsing-Ren. The first time I visited this night market, the first food I had were three of these and they were great. The boss and his girlfriend were really cool and they made a pretty good impression for the rest of the night market. I don't think he remembered me as I passed through the second time and snapped this shot though! 

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3. Volkswagen Das BBQ....? (福斯.... 打斯烤肉..?)

This guy wins the prize for having a really cool set up. He sells various kinds of grilled kebabs out of the back of an old VW that seems to have seen better days (at least the front of it anyway) He sells every kebab for 20 NT which is under a dollar and you can buy six for just over three dollars. He also guarantees that his food is awesome - if not it's free. That is a bold statement to be making if you ask me. The night I took this shot, it was rainy and the night market wasn't very busy - Every other night I've been there, he's had a long line of people waiting to have some of his kebabs. It wasn't easy to get close to him and get his whole set up in the shot, so I figured a bit further away would add more perspective to this cool vendor! 

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4. BBQ Corn (烤玉米) 

BBQ corn is one of my favourite night market foods and as I've mentioned before, it can be quite expensive. This stall however sells the corn really cheap and the price of three is almost the same as the price of one at Zhongli Night Market. I'm not sure that this stall sells corn that tastes as amazing as the stall in Zhongli, or if he BBQs them as long as they do, but he's always busy so that is probably an indication that he's pretty handy on the grill. The night I took this shot, it was rainy and the night market wasn't very busy so I was lucky to get a shot of this guy as I walked by. I really like the way he was looking directly into the camera as I walked by, especially in such a narrow space. 

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5. Pan-Fried Dumplings (手工煎餃)

This vendor sells some amazingly cheap pan-fried dumplings filled with pork and vegetables. When I took the shot he had just finished placing the dumplings on the pan and he was about to pour water on top of them to start cooking them. These dumplings aren't very big, but they are really cheap - You can buy a large box of twelve for just under two dollars and a box of eight for a little over a dollar. I've bought these kind of dumplings hundreds of times on my way to and from work especially when I'm in a hurry. They're cheap, convenient and really tasty. I was also a fan of the way the boss stopped and looked at me as I walked past for that candid deer in the headlights kind of look! 

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6. Grilled Stinky Tofu (碳烤臭豆腐) 

I have a lot of respect for Stinky Tofu. Unlike most foreigners who come to Taiwan, I can't get enough of it. This version however, I'm not really very enthusiastic whenever I see it. It's not the stinky tofu's fault, it is the Taiwanese-style sour kimchi that I'm not a big fan of. The tofu has a stick running through it and it is cooked on a grill. When it is almost ready, they will split it down the middle and add an overflowing serving of kimchi with some sauce making it a big too soggy for my liking. This is one of the quintessential ways of eating stinky tofu and is popular among Taiwanese people. For me, it is messy and I don't like the sour kimchi very much. 

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7. Oysters (烤生蠔)

Oysters are pretty big at Hsing-Ren Night Market. There are quite a few stands selling them. This stall sells imported Canadian oysters and they are BBQ'd for you, or they can be shucked and served raw with some lemon. Personally, I prefer my oysters to be small and in an omelette! The larger ones like this almost terrify me. To most people though, oysters are a delicacy and having the ability to eat them like this but not having to go to make reservations at an expensive restaurant is a great thing. The oysters sold here aren't cheap, but there are always lines to get in and enjoy them! I'll have a few more shots of other oyster vendors in the following posts!

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8. Indigenous BBQ (原住民烤肉) 

The first time I visited the Hsing-Ren Night Market, this stall stopped me nearly dead in my tracks. As soon as I saw the boss and the huge BBQ I instinctively just lined up and hadn't even considered what I wanted to buy as it looked amazing. I've probably mentioned it a few times before, but Indigenous food is probably my favourite food in Taiwan. The things these people can do with pork has transformed me from a guy who rarely ever ate pork to actually having a lot of respect the animal! This stall sells fresh Indigenous sausages, cuts of wild boar and some other kinds of wild fowl. I bought a slab of BBQ pork mixed with onions, chili and leeks and it was amazing. If you are in Taiwan and you haven't tried Indigenous food, I don't know what you're waiting for, you'll be blown away by how awesome it is. 

Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢)

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There are mass plots of empty land somewhere in the deserts of Arizona called "boneyards" where retired jetliners go to be recycled when their time is up. If you've ever seen a picture of these airplane graveyards, they are massive and can almost be described as beautiful despite the fact that they are lined up in order to become nothing more than scrap metal. 

Cihu (慈湖) which translates as "benevolent lake" is a serene lakeside property near Daxi (大溪) in Taoyuan county that has assumed the unfortunate responsibility of becoming a "boneyard" of sorts. 

This particular boneyard however is dedicated to Generalissimo and former President of the Republic of China - Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) and the statues that he (like every other dictator before and after him) had fashioned in his image. 

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The nicest part of the park? 

When Chiang died In 1975, it was his wish that his body be interned at this site until such a time that Republic of China forces could take back China by force and reinstitute his version of democratic rule over the oppressed people of Red China.

The Daxi river valley area was always an area that the Chiang family was fond of, and both Chiang Kai-Shek and his son Chiang Ching-Kuo (蔣經國) are interned within the village which has become known as a "town of presidents." 

Due to Chiang's wishes to return, his body was not prepared in traditional Chinese fashion and was thus placed in a black marble sarcophagus meant to preserve his body until it could be buried in his hometown in Zhejiang Province (浙江省). 

His body has lain in state at Cihu for over forty years and the dream that the Chinese Nationalist Party (中國國民黨) could ever be able to retake the “motherland” has become an impossibility. 

The people of Taiwan have instead forged ahead with their own national identity while the party he helped to create grovels for scraps at the feet of the Communist leadership in China. 

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What Chiang was unable to foresee before his death was that Taiwan would develop into a thriving multi-party democracy and that the peace-loving people of this country would completely disregard his dream of taking back China from the Communists. Post CKS-Taiwan has forged ahead with mass development making Taiwan one of the most advanced nations in the world with a population that freely exercises its right to democracy, free speech and liberty. 

When free and open elections took place after the era of Martial Law was lifted, Chiang's KMT soon ousted in the first regime change in Taiwan in over half a century with the people of the country demanding change. 

Part of that change to put it simply was to deal responsibly with Chiang's legacy - Chiang and his regime were guilty of horrendous crimes committed against the Taiwanese people and despite efforts to develop the country, his legacy will always be a contentious one especially for those who lived through those terrible years known as the "White Terror" (白色恐怖) period. 

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Chinese Tourists confused as to why they're at the park.

In all there are over 43,000 bronze statues of Chiang Kai Shek (蔣公銅像) littered throughout Taiwan found in front of schools, parks, military bases and government buildings.

Despite a strong desire to have them removed, until now now only several hundred have been moved to Cihu. Moving the statues has become an issue almost as contentious as the man himself as supporters show up to cause a fuss whenever a statue is scheduled to be removed. 

When the KMT retook the presidency in 2008, efforts to remove the statues came to a standstill and those that hadn't been already removed were pretty much left were they were.

This inaction and lack of recognition by the KMT to their past crimes has led to issues of vandalism with remaining statues being beheaded, spray painted and otherwise smashed to bits by people angry with the government or those had their lives adversely affected by the KMT or Chiang Kai Shek.

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A kind old man?

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A defeated General?

These days the park has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, especially for those tourists coming from China. Tour buses full of people are carted to the countryside and unloaded at the park to experience a bit of modern "Chinese" history. It’s all a bit surreal. 

For Chinese tourists, visiting the park is a lesson in history for a figure they both loathe and respect. They can learn about one of the principle figures in the history of the Sino-Japanese war and the latter Chinese Civil War which in their view "divided" China. 

While visiting the park, I observed quite a few of the Chinese tourists who seemed like they were generally bored and confused as to why they were wasting their time at the mausoleum. I’m sure they’d much rather be back in Taipei shopping. 

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An empty shell of a man? (Wounds and Regeneration Statue) 

For locals, visiting the park seems to be great for a weekend escape to a scenic location where they can enjoy a bit of nature. There are of course people who visit the mausoleum, especially on anniversaries of his birthday and his death, who want to pay respect to a man whom they view as a great leader and an important historical figure. 

No matter what side of the fence you are on when it comes to Chiang's legacy, the park is a learning experience for the history of modern Taiwan and China from the 1900s onward.  

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The Resting Place of Chiang Kai Shek

The mausoleum is situated a short walk from the park in a beautiful Chinese-style house that was designed to look like Chiang Kai Shek's former home in China. Chiang's body lies in state in the main greeting hall of the building and is guarded at all times by the honour guard of the Republic of China military.

The mausoleum is a stark contrast to that of Mao Ze Dong's (毛澤東) in China which is kind of eerie - Chiang's marble sarcophagus doesn't display his body and the room is quite simple with only a few ROC flags, a portrait and a Christian cross in front of where the body lies rather than the grandiose mausoleum for Mao in Beijing.  

If you want to visit the mausoleum, it is requested that you respect the dead and bow to the former president, or at least show respect in your own way.

I showed my respect by not taking pictures of his sarcophagus and the room he lies in - I'm sure quite a few tourists have snapped some shots of the marble coffin and the room he resides in, but I didn't feel comfortable doing that.  

If you are in Taoyuan and you can't think of anything else to do, send me a message and I'll give you some suggestions for places to visit.

If you can't reach me, you can always stop by Cihu and waste an hour or so. 

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English Website ／ 中文版

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Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos)

People of the Night 12 (寧夏夜市)

This is my last post in my People of the Night series from Taipei's Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) 

The night market is situated in Taipei's lovely Dadaocheng (大稻埕) district which is one of the oldest areas in the city and offers a nostalgic feeling when you visit as most of the buildings in the area have been around for a long, long time.  

The Ningxia Night Market is not a large night market, but it has some really great food and is probably most well-known for its Oyster Omelets (蚵仔煎) and other traditional Taiwanese dishes. The night market has been revitalized over the past few years and is really well organized and quality and sanitation are really important to all the vendors.

Admittedly, before starting this project, I had never been to this night market. Since then, I've made several visits over a period of a few weeks and quickly fell in love with this night market.

I have split up my shots from the night market into three posts. The first post will cover drinks and fruit and the two posts following it will be all about the food vendors.

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Ningxia Night Market 1 / Ningxia Night Market 2

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1. Chicken Rolls (雞腿捲)

These Chicken Rolls are somewhat of a new thing at night markets around the country. It seems like they originated at Taichung's popular Fengjia University Nightmarket (逢甲夜市) and spread to night markets all over the country. Basically all it is is bits of chicken wrapped in chicken skin and then deep fried and grilled. When it's done, you can choose your flavour which includes curry, sour plum, wasabi, seaweed, lemon, spicy, cumin and pepper. Each roll is a little over a dollar and is a nice (unhealthy) snack. 

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2. Small Intestine in Large Intestine (大腸包小腸)

In the history of all terrible translations, this might be one of the worst. Don't get me wrong, I love me some intestines. (Duck intestines and pork intestines being my favourite) But imagine a random fresh off the boat westerner walking through the night market and seeing this English. I can safely assume that 99.9% would avoid this stall. That's unfortunate because this special Taiwanese night market food isn't to be missed.

If you're not sure what it is, basically it's a sausage hot dog with the "bun" being replaced with a rice sausage (米腸) The vendor will slice a hole down the middle and and then place the sausage (small intestine) inside with some cilantro, soy bean paste and chili sauce.

The unfavourable translation comes from sausage and rice sausage being "香腸" (xiang chang) and "米腸" (mi chang) respectively while intestines are "腸" (chang) The term for sausage likely got its name in Taiwan because when it is linked together they look like intestines, so the meat version loosely translates as "smells good intestine" 

Anyway, this isn't a Mandarin lesson - in the shot you can see the vendors looking on because a popular TV show was filming at Ningxia that night and were making a lot of commotion at a neighbouring stall. The Rice Sausage is on the the right while the sausage is on the left. 

If you come to Taiwan, don't be fooled by the English and try this sausage-dog! 

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3. Dongshan Ducks Head (東山鴨頭)

To tell the truth, these stalls have always somewhat scared me. I'm not actually sure why, because everything available I'd have no problem putting in my mouth. Maybe it's all the ducks heads staring at me, or maybe it's the dark color of all the food. I've yet to try this popular dish, but I will definitely eat it sometime. When you want to order you just take one of the red baskets and put what you want inside. When you're finished choosing you just hand it to the boss and he will fry it up for you and add some chili pepper if you want. The ducks heads and duck tongues are the most important ingredients to add to your mixture, but it can be a little expensive, so don't grab too much. There are two Dongshan Ducks Head vendors at Ningxia and they are both quite popular. I tried hard to get a shot of both of them, but one of them was so busy that it was almost impossible! 

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4. Teppanyaki (鐵板燒)

When I graduated from university my parents came to the city for the ceremony and wanted to go out for a nice meal afterwards to celebrate. I tried for a week or two to get reservations at the hip new Teppanyaki place on the Halifax waterfront to no avail. Teppanyaki for us is an expensive affair with chefs cooking up amazing dishes in front of you. When I arrived in Taiwan, one of the first meals I had was at a cheap Teppanyaki restaurant and the thing that amazed me was how cheap it was. Teppanyaki is popular here in Taiwan and is one of the leftovers from the Japanese colonial period. Despite it being "Japanese" food, the people here have put a Taiwan touch on it and made it their own. This stall sells a large variety of dishes and the two guys running it are quite busy. Every meal is under three dollars and includes the main serving of meat, some fried up veggies and rice! 

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5. The Goose Boss (鵝肉老闆) 

This vendor specializes in the art of the goose. You can buy bowls of goose noodles, coagulated goose blood, goose intestines, goose gizzard and goose meat. The goose is typically cooked in salty hot water and when it comes out it is tender, salty and oily. I always thought it was a bit weird that they boiled chicken, duck and goose here as I'm used to those types of birds being broiled at home - after trying all of them though, I can safely say that they taste a lot better than what my mom cooks at home (sorry mom) and I would gladly eat it for Thanksgiving Dinner! Goose is a popular dish in Taoyuan, the county where I live, so I much prefer to eat it at home than in the night market in Taipei. This vendor however was quite busy each time I went to Ningxia, so I'm sure he's quite popular. 

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6. Fried Chicken (炸雞老闆)

My family was never really big on fried chicken while I was growing up as my mom preferred feeding us healthier foods. When I came to Taiwan fried chicken was like this "new thing" to me. The Taiwanese are masters at fried chicken and are always coming up with new ways of making it even more delicious which means I have to be careful to try to stay away from it and not eat too much. This vendor sells chicken wings, legs, hearts and bum all cooked in a special tofu milk batter. The tofu based batter makes the outside really thick, crispy and tasty. All you have to do is tell the vendor what kind of chicken you want and whether you want a large serving (大份) or a small serving (小份) I recommend a large serving of chicken bum! It's good for your skin (or so they say.)

7. BBQ Everything (烤很多有的沒的老闆) 

For some reason, I find that when vendors are standing there using their cellphones, it is probably an indication of how good their business is. The night I took this shot, they weren't busy, but the next time I went, some hot girls were running the show and there was a line. This vendor BBQs everything in a giant cauldron and there is a wide variety of things to buy ranging from chicken wings and bums to fish balls and dried tofu. Since this stuff is pre-cooked all you do is add it into a bowl and they will calculate the price and season it for you. If you check the gallery below (or click on the Flickr link) you will see another shot of the same stall on a busier night when the girls were on the job. 

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That will do it for the Ningxia Night Market - I'm going to take a break for a few days and then I'll start posting from a Night Market here in Taoyuan called the Hsing-Ren Garden Night Market (興仁花園夜市.)

Hsing-Ren is a newly opened night market that is only open four days a week unlike most other night markets that are open every night. "Garden" Night Markets are the "new" thing here in Taiwan and are quite popular among younger crowds. A lot of the "new" food that has become popular over the past few years in Taiwan have been products of "garden" night markets like the Tainan Garden Night Market (台南花園夜市) or the Fu Da Garden Night Market (輔大花園夜市) as they attract younger crowds who are more willing to try new and more exotic foods.  

I have a few more night markets planned over the next few months including Keelung's Miaokou (廟口夜市), Taipei's Shilin (士林夜市) and Chung-Yuan University Night Market (中原夜市)

Below is a slideshow of all the shots I used from the Ningxia Night Market Series and a few more that didn't make the cut. If you'd like to view larger versions, click on the flickr link to be brought offsite to my flickr album. 

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Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)