Urban Exploration

Abandoned Kiln (磚窯 - 歷史遺跡)

This post is a result of a combination of some long-time curiosity and my friend Alexander Synaptic rubbing off on me. I'm not very experienced with urban exploration, but hanging out with Alexander and listening to his stories has sparked an interest in the hobby. I've found that the more I learn about urban exploration the more I discover that the willingness to go into places (where you might not always be welcome) is similar to the courage that a successful street photographer needs.

It isn't easy walking up to a complete stranger on the street and taking their photo - Likewise with urban exploration you have to be willing to put yourself in a situation that brings you into unknown places and sometimes places where no one really expects you to be walking around. There is a level of respect however that both a street photographer and an urban explorer share with their subjects and that respect is typically shown with the stories that are told in the aftermath.

With street photography I feel like I've found that courage and even through I try to be stealth-like most of the time, I often still walk up to people, smile and point my camera in their face when something strikes me as interesting. Urban exploration on the other hand isn't as easy and in most cases with the kind of abandoned places people are quite suspicious as to why you want to check things out.

Today's exploration is an abandoned brick kiln (磚窯) found on a small road between Taoyuan's Longtan village (龍潭鄉) and Hsinchu's Guanxi township (關西鎮). I have been driving down this road for years (on my drives to Neiwan) and have noticed this place each and every time I have passed by, but until now never really thought to jump over the little fence in front of it and check it out.

Kilns of this variety were quite common in Taiwan several decades ago and helped to fuel the rapid development of the nation. If you're not sure what a kiln is, they are basically a thermally enclosed room that act like an oven. The insulation in the room helps to create temperatures that are sufficient for hardening or drying of clay objects and making them into bricks, pottery, tiles and other ceramics.

Despite a few wood-fire kilns of this variety still being active in the country (some just for show) most have been abandoned or replaced with more environmentally friendly versions which use natural gas and are able to produce bricks on a much larger scale.

There isn't much information available online about these particular kilns of which there are three. I've spent a lot of time searching the web, searching archives and searching PTT (a popular forum used in Taiwan) to figure out when they were closed, how long they were in operation and who owned them but not much of that information is available online, so I can't really tell you much. What info I could find online however is that the soil in the area is naturally sulphurous and was thus ideal for the brick-making process. This is why you can see three kilns in such a relatively close area. 

The kilns are from separate companies named "Pacific" (太平洋), "Jianfu" (建富) and "Sanhe" (三合) which built them around year 60 on the Republic of China calendar (1971). They were built as Hoffmann Kilns (霍夫曼窯), a style introduced to Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period and are more popularly referred to here as "Bagua Kilns" (八卦窯) due to their resemblance to the Taoist "Eight Trigram" (八卦).  Hoffmann kilns typically have a long tunnel, a main furnace and several different pits to make the bricks. The roof trusses make it seem like an octagon and that is probably where the resemblance comes up. 

Huatan Hoffmann Kiln (花壇八卦窯) in Changhua, Taiwan (彰化) 

These particular kilns were set up in that area when the Taoyuan sewer system was being constructed and were quite popular because the earth in that area was especially suited for brick-making. Information as to when the kilns were decommissioned or how long they were in operation isn't available online so it is hard to say with any degree of certainty how long they have been abandoned. 

Reference: 磚窯(歷史遺跡) 仁安里第六鄰一帶的土質屬黃棕土,非常適合製造磚瓦。民國六十 年代初,有太平洋、建富、三合等多家磚窯。其中三合磚窯原是由內湖 搬至仁安里,這些窯屬於所謂的「八卦窯」,專門生產建築用的紅磚。所 謂「八卦窯」是一種類似隧道一般的窯洞,所不同的是窯內牆壁修飾成 八個斜坡面,看上去是八角型。他的最大特點是可以循環燒製磚胚,所 以產量比傳統的窯大很多。(Link /Pg. 47)

What I can tell you is what is still surviving today - The kilns sit alone in a large empty field near a Taipower generating station (龍潭變電所) off in the distance on one side and the popular Leofoo Village Amusement Park (六福村) on the other. There are three different kilns which were run by three different companies - one is close to the road, another is a short walk through a field while the third is a short drive from those two. There is also an abandoned building in between them that looks like it could have been a former office building. Unfortunately nothing was left inside the building to identify what actually went on while the place was in business.

The kilns are somewhat similar in the fact that they have very tall (and well preserved) smoke stacks that rise out of what (from a distance) looks like a large mound of dirt. When you get close enough you'll notice that those mounds of dirt have been overrun with shrubbery and that in certain areas there are bricks popping out. There are several entrances to each of the kilns and on the inside there are several different furnace areas where they would have made the bricks. The inside of the kiln closest to the road seems like it has become a popular place for locals to dump some of their garbage making it a bit difficult and uninteresting to shoot.

Like a lot of abandoned places there are guard dogs on the grounds and they kind of prevented me from exploring too much. A group of five or six fully grown Taiwanese dogs aren't the type you want to mess with especially when you're on their territory. The funny thing about the dogs though is that when they had no idea I was around I saw them playing in the tall grass with each other and they looked like they were having a great time pouncing around. 

As far as urban exploration goes, I'm not sure how this rates compared to what Alexander does, but there very little information available about these kilns available online in Chinese and none in English, so this is my contribution to their memory. The field they are in is really large by Taiwanese standards and it seems like a perfect location to build some dreary high rise apartments. I'm not sure how much longer they'll be around so if you're in the area check them out!

If you know any further information about the kilns or have any questions or comments, don't be shy. Comment below or contact me through the 'contact' section below.


Nanjichang Community (南機場社區)

A few weeks ago I attended a photowalk held in the Nanjichang community of Taipei coordinated by TC Lin, a prominent Taiwan street photographer, author, musician, filmmaker and one of the few foreign-born residents of Taiwan to become a naturalized citizen. TC is well-known in the photography circles in Taiwan as well as abroad having exhibited his photos all over the world.

As a street photographer, TC has witnessed the modernization of the country over the past few decades and has a portfolio of amazing photos which have documented this beautiful country and its people. Given his relationship with the country and the community where he works, he was the ideal person to lead a large international event like this with the ability and experience necessary to relay important information to all the participants involved.

The photowalk was planned with the cooperation of the Taipei City Chung-Cheng Community College (台北市中正區大學) where TC teaches as well as the local borough warden (方荷生里長) and his office which gave participants an introduction to the history of the community as well as unfettered access to assist in preserving a visual record of a historic Taipei community that may succumb to urban renewal and city beautification despite the protests of its residents. 

The Nanjichang Community (南機場社區) which is slated for urban renewal or reconstruction (whichever you prefer) is one of Taipei's first modern 'high-rise' communities completed in 1964 and was built on the site of the Japanese colonial-era's "Southern Taipei Airport" which was reclaimed between 1945-1949 after the Nationalist party took control of Taiwan.

The community which is situated in Taipei's Chung-Cheng district (中正區) was built by the KMT as a national housing project for members of the ROC armed forces and upon completion became Taipei's largest military dependents community (眷村) and at the time was considered a "model" compared to the shoddy military dependents villages that were constructed throughout the rest of the country in the early 1950's. 

Nanjichang is most well-known these days for its night market (南機場夜市) which is not particularly a large one by Taipei standards, but one that sells a lot of popular local dishes. The people who originally settled in the Nanjichang apartments were mostly members of the military and low level civil servants who fled from China with the Kuomintang after the Chinese Civil War (國共內戰), so a lot of the food sold at the night market are local delicacies from that country.

The night market is one small strip of road and has quite a few vendors who just set up shop on what was once an extremely wide road. The market is well-known with the residents of the city, but not a huge draw for tourists like some of the city's other night markets which are close to Taipei's MRT system which means that it has been able to remain quite traditional for the most part. 

Section One (第一期) 

The community was constructed in three different sections with the largest section consisting of ten different five storey apartment blocks and the second and third section being enclosed communities that have windows facing each other with a courtyard (中庭) in the middle. The community was planned to be an exclusive one, much like a lot of other military dependent villages so it would come equipped with schools, medical facilities, markets, restaurants, etc. 

I found Section One (第一期) most interesting because of the commotion surrounding the ten buildings. The night market runs through them and there is a lot of activity on the first floors where there are often businesses and restaurants. I was impressed with the design of the buildings as they were all connected by central spiral staircases (飛天旋轉梯) which reminded me of some of the staircases you'd see while walking down the street in Montreal.

When the buildings were constructed they were considered the cutting edge of western architecture - sadly though the spiral staircases never really caught on anywhere else in Taiwan.

I spent the most of my time on the photowalk with a few other photographers exploring the buildings in section one and I was interested to find that the residents had taken it upon themselves over the years to expand the size of their apartment on their own sometimes more than once. These expansions would be highly illegal anywhere else in the city and are also extremely unsafe, but the residents used a bit of their own ingenuity to improve the place they called home. It is really a miracle that Taiwan's frequent earthquakes or typhoons haven't caused these expansions to collapse.

The reason this outward expansion was necessary is because each apartment was originally only about 26-40 square meters each (8-12坪) making them a tight fit if you have a family. I live in a two bedroom apartment by myself that is 28坪 (92 square meters) and I often feel a bit cramped, so I can't even imagine how the residents of these buildings live. 

Section Two (第二期) 

Section Two (第二期) of the apartment complex is also quite interesting as it is a different style of building and the way it was set up makes it look a bit intimidating to outsiders. It is a self-contained courtyard-style building and has restaurants, a general store, a temple and other businesses within it.

If you venture upstairs in the residential area you are going to find dark hallways and really strange odours that I seriously haven't smelled since my time in China. It was actually a bit creepy walking around the residential area and (if you notice in the photos below) the hallways are full of stuff which is a reflection of the residents inability to really expand the size of their apartment outwards like the residents in second one could. 

Section Three (第三期) of the complex is a little bit like section two in terms of its construction but the major difference is that the residents of this section have somehow marketed their courtyard-style building to wedding photographers and filmmakers who pay for usage.

Considering that the residents of this section are accustomed to photographers paying for the privilege to shoot inside the complex, they were quite opposed to allowing us into the complex if they weren't getting a cut.

Despite having passes to give us access to the buildings, it was recommended that we not bother with section three to save some headaches. Curiosity however got the best of a few of us and we meandered into the building to see what was so special about it but tried to stay respectful of the residents by not exploring too much or shooting very many photos. 

Whoops! I took a quick shot of section three! 

If you add up all three sections of the Nanjichang community there are 1264 households and currently over 2000 residents. Where the community was once considered a model of modernity, it is now considered a blight on the city for its slum-like conditions and is mostly occupied by low-income families posing an issue for the city government which has made several unpopular attempts to come up with a solution to relocate the residents of the community and construct new housing for them.

This urban renewal issue has caused headaches for former mayor Hau Lung-Bin (郝龍斌) and current mayor Ko Wen-Jie (柯文哲) who have made plans to reconstruct public housing for the residents of the community within the next decade - however nothing concrete has been decided and residents have been reluctant to relocate or accept the city government's conditions.

The borough warden who himself has been a resident of Nanjichang for the last fifty years and serving as warden for almost twenty has led the charge against the city governments proposals and has worked hard to improve the lives of the people living within his community. The job of a borough warden (里長) is usually quite cushy and doesn't really require a lot of work - Mr. Fang (方荷生) on the other hand is completely different and I don't doubt that he has many sleepless nights worrying about the future of the residents of his little community. He was busy on the day of the photowalk running back and forth between meetings, but from what we learned, he has been extremely important in taking care of the residents of the community, especially the elderly and their medical needs as well as residents who are prone to getting themselves in trouble by teaching them trades and how to live responsibly. 

What will the future be like? 

The future of the Nanjichang Community is up in the air and while the residents and civic groups might not like the city governments plans, time is running out on one of Taipei's oldest residential communities and they may not be able to resist modernization too much longer.

Residential conflicts are not a new thing in Taiwan and tensions between the people and the government often flare up. I just hope that the eventual resolution to this problem is best for all parties involved. As a photographer, I hope that the images I captured on the day of the photowalk help to add to the library of photos online that will preserve the memory of this distinct Taiwanese community.

Taipei Nooks - History of Nanjichang (Chinese) 

TC Lin (林道明) - The Nanjichang Photography Event 

Taipei Times - Capturing the faces of urban decay

 

This post ultimately required quite a bit of translation and research - If you have any corrections, criticisms or general comments, feel free to post down below or send me an email through the contact section on the menu below. Thanks! 


Losheng Sanatorium (樂生療養院)

Leprosy was always one of those things we knew about as kids, but never experienced first hand - We all heard the bible stories of Jesus healing lepers and after the disease was eradicated in most developed countries it became somewhat of a 'joke' that a person who had the disease was likely to have random body parts fall off at any given moment. It was easy to laugh at jokes like that because we didn't really understand and would never have to experience the disease in the way that past generations had.

When I visited Nepal a few years back I saw the disease up close for the first time and the experience shifted a lot of what I thought about leprosy and those jokes just didn't seem funny anymore. The disease may have been eradicated in the developed world, but in developing countries were poverty is more prevalent, the disease still rears its ugly head afflicting people who cannot afford treatment. The World Health Organization has done some great work offering free multi-drug treatments to people in impoverished nations, but while the problem isn't as bad as it used to be, it still exists and is still common in places like India and Nepal. The good news however is that we have reduced the amount of cases worldwide over the past decade from around five million to less than 150,000 and with luck we will be able to completely eradicate the disease in the near future. 

One of the major problems with leprosy is the social stigma that goes with it; Leprosy is a contagious disease, but it isn't as contagious as most people think it is and the possibility of contracting it from a family member isn't that high. Unfortunately before this discovery, people with leprosy, or "lepers" as society had dubbed them were put in institutions to isolate them from the general public.

Operating table. 

Sanitariums (sanatoriums) were thus set up as long-term care facilities for people with leprosy (and other diseases) which required long-term treatment or as a hospice for people so gravely ill that they would likely never leave again. Realistically though, the main purpose of most of these hospitals was to keep these people away from the general population in an attempt to stop the disease from spreading. The term "leper" these days still carries quite a large social stigma and if you search the word on urban dictionary you're likely to come up with dozens of results and I'm quite sure that English isn't the only language which stigmatizes the word in this way.

The concept of a "sanatorium" hits pretty close to home as one of the most important people in my life, my stepdad, was forced to live in one in his youth. A simple medical checkup for an application to join the Canadian armed forces revealed that he had tuberculosis, so instead of joining the army he had to live in a sanatorium for over eighteen months instead and wasn't allowed to leave until he was cured. He rarely mentioned the experience while I was growing up and I'm sure that it was an experience that he would much prefer to not think about it at all which is why it was best for us to never really ask him about it. 

The Losheng Sanatorium (樂生療養院) in the Xinzhuang district (新莊區) of New Taipei City is one of these special types of long-term care facilities which had a mission to treat the people of Taiwan who had contracted leprosy. It was constructed over eighty-five years ago during the Japanese colonial era and was originally named the Rakusei Sanatorium for Lepers of Governor-General of Taiwan (臺灣總督府癩病療養樂生院) and later renamed when the colonial period ended. The complex has been the subject of heated debate on one side due to its historical value and on the other for the strategic development area it is located in. It is also quite popular with urban explorers as the original hospital has been abandoned for years despite a small community of people who remain in the area around the hospital and have been reluctant to leave.

Losheng (樂生) which translates as "Happy Life" was built in 1929 by the Japanese to house and treat people suffering from leprosy - At the time the disease was considered highly contagious so it was common practice to isolate these people from the general population. The hospital and the community around it was built on a mountain and was set up to be a self-sufficient 'village' where people could take care of all the necessities of life without having to leave. It was built on the side of a mountain bordering what is now Taoyuan county's Gueishan township (龜山區) and was complete with gardens, farms, temples, churches, etc. At the time of its construction, it was probably quite progressive for the Japanese, a colonial power, to build such a beautiful sanitarium equipped with modern medical facilities allowing the people who were forced to live there to live a "happy life" while in isolation from their families and rest of the island. The fact that it was built on the side of a mountain however made escape a bit difficult and I'm sure that was also taken into consideration before its construction. 

Fortunately, the need for such a sanatorium became pointless in the early 1950s as new developments in medical treatment became available helping to cure people of the horrible disease. Therefore in 1954 the compulsory isolation of people suffering from leprosy ended and people were free to leave and rejoin society. Unfortunately social stigma and discrimination persisted as the appearance of those who were afflicted with the disease often made it difficult for them to re-assimilate back into society. This led to a lot of people making the decision to live out the rest of their lives in the community where they felt safe and obviously where they had become so familiar with. 

As of 2006, the number of residents living on the compound numbered only around 200 with 162 living in a new nearby hospital (迴龍醫院) and 52 on the compound itself. The old sanatorium has been abandoned and a new modern hospital has taken over treatment. The government made plans to completely demolish the ruins of the old hospital to make way for development of a depot for Taipei's Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) system's Orange Line (中和新蘆線) which has already started operation and will eventually expand further connecting residents to new parts of the city as well as Taoyuan county and the airport. These plans have met with resistance from civic groups and members of the community who argue that the hospital and the community around it are important and should be preserved for historical and cultural value. Unfortunately in Taiwan, development is often much more important than historical preservation.

Empty chair in the village

The MRT depot is currently under construction near the abandoned hospital, but the project met with large-scale protests in 2007 that pressured the government into changing its policy with regard to the sanatorium. After years of lobbying and protests, the government agreed that 39 buildings within the community would be preserved, 10 reconstructed and 6 would be demolished. This meant that while the community would continue to exist and that some conditions would improve, they would have to accept the loss of some of the original buildings as the MRT depot was important for the future plans of the MRT system.

The sanatorium currently still stands in its original location and despite being abandoned and in some parts run-down, it is still in pretty good shape. The engineers working on the depot have had to build a wall on the mountain to protect the hospital from erosion and a lot of the buildings have tarp covering them due to damage to the roof. It has become a popular place for urban explorers to visit and while it isn't anything compared to what my good friend Alexander Synaptic discovers, it helps to act as an introduction to the hobby and spark an interest for further exploration. The hospital has also become popular with local photographers as a place to have spooky photo shoots.

The hospital has some pretty cool rooms that are extremely capable of freaking out any of your superstitious friends. There is a surgery room, a morgue, an X-Ray room, old offices, doctors dormitories, patient rooms, recreation rooms, a library and long dark passages that tend to scare quite a few people. The rooms are full of old paraphernalia including Microsoft Office 97 discs, MS-DOS books, floppy disks, old records, cassettes and VHS movies as well as various belongings that were randomly left behind when the hospital closed. Some of the rooms are full of clutter while others are clean and neat. It's interesting to stop in the rooms and look at stuff that was so common in the 80s and 90s that we don't really think of any longer.

Hallway between different departments. 

I'm not really a superstitious kind of guy, but on my second visit, I walked alone around the hospital on a grey day with the rain hitting the roof and dripping in through various holes. The light was terrible and it was dark inside. I'm pretty sure that if any one jumped out and screamed that I'd probably have a heart attack. On my way out I ran into an old resident of the community on a motorized wheelchair. He stopped in front of me and smiled and said hello. I stopped and greeted him and immediately noticed his disfigured skin and missing fingers. The man was smiling and happy to meet someone walking through his community so I took a few minutes out of my day to have a conversation with him. When the rain picked up he said goodbye and scooted off back to his home. If it were my first experience with leprosy I might have had a different reaction, but I'm happy that I was able to have a quick conversation with someone who probably doesn't have the opportunity to get out and enjoy his senior years as often as he should.

Taiwan is a country full of history, but sometimes that history isn't always well-preserved and visiting a place like this helps us to understand the way things were in days gone by. I'm sure when the renovation and reconstruction projects are finished that Losheng will become a popular attraction for tourists to visit and learn about the historical value of such a place, but right now, I prefer to enjoy it the way it is.

If you have any questions, comments or criticism, don't be shy - Comment below or send an email through my contact section below!


Getting There / Map

 

In most cases with an Urban Exploration post, I wouldn't share the location in my blog post. When it comes to Losheng Sanatorium however, information about its location is easily accessible in both Chinese and English, so I figure letting people know how to get there isn't really a big deal. 

The Sanatorium is easy to get to and is accessible through the Taipei MRT system. To get to the Sanatorium, take the MRT to Huilong Station (迴龍捷運站) and from Exit 1 (1號出口) walk down Wanshou Road (萬壽路) until you arrive at Huilong Temple (迴龍寺), walk up the hill to the new hospital and across the bridge to the rear where you'll find the former sanatorium and the community around it.