Tung Blossoms 2018 (客家桐花祭)

If you've been following my Instagram, you're likely going to be a little sick and tired of all the photos I've been posting of Tung Blossoms. The Tung Blossom season, which just wrapped up for another year is one of my favourite times of the year. There is always so much happening around the country which makes me a busy boy with a packed schedule of things to do and places to go!

I'm sure I've mentioned this a million times already, but the area where I live in is predominantly made up of the Hakka ethnic group. Living in Taoyuan, which fancies itself the heartland of Hakka culture (thats debatable) means that I have been constantly immersed in the culture. Over the years I have learned quite a bit not only about the amazing cuisine, but their traditions and folk religion and I'm always happy to share these experiences with people here on my blog. 

Every year in April and May, during the blooming season for Tung Blossoms, the Hakka people celebrate their culture and their heritage by putting on a grand festival for everyone to enjoy. The annual festival includes events centred around the promotion of everything "Hakka" in conjunction with the blossoms which have come to symbolize their culture.

Tung Blossoms: 2015 | 2016 | 2017

The blossoms, which are similar to the ever so popular cherry blossoms are beautiful and when they are in bloom turn the mountains of Taoyuan (and other areas) to a beautiful shade of white. During the blooming season you're likely to find me in the mountains taking photos of them, but I wonder if anyone apart from myself and locals care about them? 

Tung Blossoms (油桐花)

In April and May forests around the country turn white thanks to the Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that line mountains and hillsides. People here in Taiwan often refer to the blossoms as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom) and their arrival triggers quite a bit of domestic tourism to areas where they grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that grows to a height of about 20 meters and is endemic to South China and Burma. The trees were originally brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the Japanese Colonial Era and were planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan to help sustain the economy.

The cultivation of the tree was most important to the ethnic Hakka people of Taiwan who often lived in the areas where the trees were cultivated. The tree brought with it economic benefits as its seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the wood in turn was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks.

When the economic benefits of the Tung tree eventually subsided, the tree transformed into a symbol of the Hakka people who showed their respect for the economic prosperity the tree brought them and the long lasting relationship that they have shared.

While not as popular as cherry blossoms, Tung blossoms are loved for their ability to turn hiking trails 'white' with a snowfall effect as the blossoms fall to the ground. When the blossoms are in bloom, people both young and old travel from all parts of the country to see the blossoms, hike a bit and experience Hakka culture.

Tung Blossoms have become popular in recent years with young people, especially young couples who head to the mountains to have impromptu photoshoots with the blossoms. You’ll often see couples on hiking trails collecting blossoms that have fallen on the ground to arrange into a heart or young men putting the blossoms on a string to make a ‘Tung blossom crown’ for their girlfriends - endless amounts of cuteness, I assure you.

Hakka Tung Blossom Festival (客家桐花祭)

In 2002 the Council for Hakka Affairs started the annual "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event which takes places during the blooming season as a way to promote and help to preserve Taiwan’s Hakka culture.

The yearly event is a well-organized one that attracts large crowds of tourists to Hakka areas of the country, most notably in Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli to not only see the blossoms but also to experience Hakka culture and cuisine. Organizers plan events according to the blooming season to offer visitors entertainment and a festive atmosphere.

The annual festival has grown in popularity since it first started and the yearly schedule of events that coincide with the blooming season has grown with it. The organizers have designed a beautiful website and have released an app that helps visitors know where to best enjoy the blossoms and are making attempts at promoting the festival internationally. The website for the festival is now available in English, Japanese, Korean and Simplified Chinese to help foreign tourists learn more about Hakka Culture.

 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival Website: English | 中文 | 日語 | 조선말 

Let me talk for a minute about the 'internationalization' efforts of the festival and an experience I had this year because of it:

While walking down the hill (on one of the trails) to where I parked my scooter, I could hear a band performing some classic Taiwanese music, part of the days festivities. I also noticed a large crowd of people on the path and that some of them were wearing blue vests.

If you're not familiar with Taiwanese politics, you might not realize that these vests pretty much serve as the 'uniforms' for Taiwanese politicians. Its helpful because when they're throwing chairs at each other, they know who not to aim at by the colour of the vest. 

The politicians were posing with a group of visitors and someone wearing a Pikachu costume - As I walked down the hill I saw an assistant motion to her boss and heard her say: "外國人,外國人!" (foreigner, foreigner!) and with that I was trapped by a large group who immediately turned around and started staring at me. 

After the typical "Welcome to Taiwan, where are you from?" conversation they got to the point and asked if I could take a photo with them. Despite being sweaty and looking like crap from my terrible sleep the night before, I obliged as it was the quickest method of escape. 

Having proof that a foreigner took part in the festivities helps to perpetuate the idea that the internationalization efforts are having an effect. It doesn't matter that I take part every year or that I might be the only white guy who takes an interest in this stuff. Its a "face" thing and that is one way to determine whether or not government initiatives are successful. 

In reality, the Hakka Affairs Council, which plans the annual festival has a lot more work to do when it comes to attracting foreign tourists but to me it seems as if they are taking the right steps for future success.

The main problem that the festival faces when it comes to foreign tourists is a lack of knowledge about the blossoms and the festival as well as the inability for tourists to get to places deep in the mountains where they grow.

If my blog posts or my Sakura Map are any indication, it seems like people all over know about and are interested in Taiwan's Cherry Blossom season. I have received countless emails through my website with people all over Asia showing interest in coming to see them. 

The organizers need to find a way to create the same kind of buzz for Tung Blossoms that people have for Cherry Blossoms - which could be a bit difficult. I think though that one area where the Tung Blossom Festival can differentiate itself is with the combination of the blossoms and the celebration of Hakka culture. 

The website update, which offers visitors an interactive map as well as information in several different languages working in conjunction with the newly released smartphone app were great ideas and I sincerely hope that these efforts won't be abandoned.

There is a lot of room for this festival to grow, but the improvements that I have seen over the past few years makes me a believer. Only time will tell. 


Xiaocukeng Trail (小粗坑桐花步道)

Living here in Taoyuan, I don’t need to go very far to check out Tong Blossoms. Not only are the mountains full of the blossoms, they have also been planted in almost every park in the city making it easy for locals to enjoy them. One of the places I make sure to visit every year though is the Xiaocukeng trail (小粗坑桐花步道) near Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫). 

One of the main reasons I visit this trail rather than going to some of the more popular trails is because of the stream that runs down the mountain. The precarious thing about taking photos of Tong Blossoms is that they grow quite high and you need to find a vantage point to get close to them.

When the blossoms fall on the trails however they often provide for some beautiful photos. I especially appreciate taking photos of the blossoms resting calmly on the stream that runs though this trail. 

The trail is a popular one on weekends but if you visit during the week you’ll often have it to yourself. Even better is that you don’t have to hike very far up the mountain to see the trails. 

Once you’re done taking photos of the trail, you can continue driving a bit further up the mountain road to get views of the blossoms on the trees close-up and even some spectacular panoramic views of Shimen Reservoir.  

Shiyizhi Old Trail (十一指古道)

One of Taoyuan’s most popular trails in recent years is the Shiyizhi Old Trail (十一指古道) near Daxi Village (大溪鎮). The trail is not a long one, but offers some pretty spectacular views if you visit at the right time.  The short walk up the trail gives you not only views of the Tung Blossoms, but the valley below which is full of rice fields and lakes.

The trail has become quite popular with people on Instragram and it seems like most of the photos I saw of the blossoms this year came from this trail. Unfortunately I visited a little bit late in the season and most of the blossoms were already gone.  

The mountains around here have reverted back to their normal colours over the past few weeks so if you are reading this hoping to see the blossoms, you're going to have to wait until they start blooming next April or May.

Likewise, the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival has successfully wrapped up for another year. The festival has grown considerably in popularity over the few years that I've been following it and is a great way for people to learn about Taiwan's Hakka culture. I realize that the festival may not attract that many foreigners, but it seems like the government is intent on marketing it as much as possible to international tourists. 

Whether or not those foreign tourists show interest is yet to be seen - All I can say is that I enjoy taking part in some of the festivities planned every year and I welcome any kind of celebration of Hakka culture because that always means there will be great food nearby. 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos) 

The Colosseum

In the seventh century English scholar, Saint Bede wrote: “As long as the Colosseum stands, Rome shall stand; When the Colosseum falls, Rome shall fall; and when Rome falls, the world will end.

The Colosseum has been the iconic symbol of the once powerful Roman empire since Emperor Vespasian commissioned its construction nearly two thousand years ago. in the years since, the giant amphitheatre has survived every catastrophe the world has thrown at it. Not even the fall of the Roman Empire, or the millions of tourists who now visit it every year has brought it down. 

Once a place frequented by Rome’s Emperors, Senators and Intellectuals, the Colosseum was a place where gladiators lived and died by the sword and where animals were brutally slaughtered for the enjoyment of the masses. 

Known as one of the finest Roman buildings ever constructed, the influence of the Colosseum’s design and architecture is immeasurable. The engineering skill and know-how that it took to complete a structure of its size and has allowed it to survive for as long as it has is a feat that cannot be understated.

Today the Colosseum is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations and every year more than four million people walk through the gates to marvel at the sight of one of the ancient world’s most spectacular creations.

History

Seating between 50,000 - 80,000 spectators, the Colosseum is a massive structure that holds the record as being the largest of its kind not only during the Roman Empire, but today as well.

Built in a prime location in the ancient city, the Colosseum was the premiere venue for celebrations and sporting events and was regarded as a symbol of the power and prestige of the Roman Empire and legends about its size and grandeur filled the hearts of Rome's enemies with fear.  

As the symbol of Rome’s power, the Colosseum mirrored that of the empire and was known for the brutality that took place within as the grand spectacles often consisted of gruesome gladiatorial combat, wild animal hunts and public executions - with tickets always being free! 

Construction on the Colosseum commenced in AD 72 under Emperor Vespasian who commissioned it as a ‘gift to the people.’ It was completed eight years later under Vespasian’s successor Emperor Titus who officially celebrated its completion with 100 days of games.

The land where the Colosseum was constructed was previously part of Emperor Nero’s grand palace known as ‘Domus Aurea’ which burnt down in AD 64. Nero, the last emperor of the Julio-Claudian dynasty is remembered as a tyrant who lived a life of extravagance at the expense of the people and the land where his palace was built was taken from the people of Rome.  

The latter years of Nero's rule were marred by civil war which saw almost all of his supporters turn against him. With seemingly no other option, Nero commit suicide in AD 68 which started a power vacuum and a chaotic period known as the ‘Year of the Four Emperors’.

When the dust settled, Vespasian, a successful military leader and civil servant claimed victory and initiated the Flavian Dynasty. Vespasian, a populist sought to rebuild Rome after the great fire and commissioned an amphitheatre on the grounds reclaimed from Nero's palace which was seen as giving the land back to the people.

Vespasian’s successor, his son Titus, was a much loved ruler and like his father was known for his populist policies as well as his humanitarian response to the eruption of Mount Vesuvius which destroyed the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum.  

When the Colosseum was completed in the year AD 80, Titus endeared himself to the people yet again by inaugurating the building with elaborate shows of gladiatorial combat, wild animal fights, mock naval battles and horse and chariot races as well as offering prizes of gold, clothing and even slaves for people in the audience.

The Colosseum was actively used for over four centuries but the decline of the Roman Empire and the popularity of a 'new religion' caused the public to lose interest in the gruesome shows that were offered more or less forcing it out of business and leaving it pretty much abandoned.   

The abandonment of the building resulted in centuries of neglect and vandalism which unfortunately stripped the Colosseum of all of its decorative beauty. Later it ended up becoming a quarry which supplied Rome’s various construction projects with building materials.

In 1749, Pope Benedict XIV put an end to the usage of the Colosseum as a quarry and consecrated the building as a sacred site. The Pope argued that the building was sanctified by the blood of early Christian Martyrs who were executed on site. Despite little evidence for Christian persecution and executions ever taking place at the Colosseum, the actions of Pope Benedict XIV and the Popes who succeeded him resulted in the the building becoming protected and restoration projects were carried out to save it from total destruction.

Today the Colosseum is one of Rome’s top tourist destinations with millions of tourists visiting every year. Restoration efforts on the site are ongoing and recently tours of the top levels of the building as well as the underground hypogeum have become available for tourists.

For more detailed information on the Colosseum’s almost two thousand year old history, check out some of these resources:

Tips for Travellers

The Colosseum is the most popular tourist attraction in a city full of tourist attractions - Over four million people visit the site every year which means that on average over ten thousand people visit everyday. What does this mean? Your visit to the Colosseum is going to be shared with thousands of other people and you should be prepared to wait in long lines. 

Below are some tips that you may want to take into consideration before and during your visit which will help you save time, money and offer a more rewarding experience at the Colosseum.

Close up to the hypogeum

- Plan your trip in advance - If you are travelling to Rome, make sure to plan your entire itinerary in advance. Spontaneous travellers or people who wait for a favourable weather forecast are going to end up wasting a lot of time waiting in lines at places like the Colosseum or the Vatican. The biggest advice I can give you is to do your homework and plan your trip in advance which will allow you to save a lot of time and skip the ticket queues.

There are a few ways to take care of the ticket situation:

  1. 'Skip-The-Line' tickets are available for purchase online - Go directly to the source, the Coop Culture website, which offers a number of ticket options for tourists. The basic ticket costs €12.00 per person with a €4.00 service fee. The tickets are valid for two days and includes admission to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. There are also other options available which include admission to the hypogeum (underground) as well as the Third Ring at an additional cost.
  2. Prefer to visit with the help of a tour guide? Taking a tour led by a professional tour guide (who speaks your language) is often a popular option for travellers and at the Colosseum there are certain sections that tourists cannot visit unless they are taking part in a guided tour. The web is full of tours that you can book in advance. My advice here is to shop around to find the best price for the experience you want to have. You are also going to want to book your tours well in advance as spots fill up quickly.
  3. Roma Pass? If you are visiting Rome for a short time, you may want to consider purchasing the Roma Pass which comes in intervals of 72 and 48 hours. Each of the passes offers unlimited access to Rome’s public transport network and discount tickets to many of the city’s tourist destinations. You can use the Roma Pass for skip-the-line admission to the Colosseum as the pass offers free entry to either one or two of Rome’s museums or archaeological sites (depending on which you purchase).
  4. Need an Audio-Guide? Audio-Guides are not included with your admission tickets, so if you want to have one to better understand what you’re seeing while in the Colosseum, it would be a good idea to order one in advance with your skip-the-line tickets. The guides can be purchased for an additional €5,50 from the Coop Culture website. There are some apps available in the iTunes or Android App Store that offer audio guides and interactive maps which you may want to download before your trip.

Practicalities

  • On the day that you are visiting the Colosseum, do your best to arrive early - The gates open at 8:30am and a line will have formed well before that. It’s a good idea to visit earlier in the morning when there are fewer people which should allow you to take better photos and avoid the hot sun.
  • The area around the Colosseum is full of people busking and selling souvenirs. You’ll want to be careful about your interactions with these people as they can be sometimes be aggressive in their salesmanship. If anyone tries to hand you anything, politely refuse. If they keep bothering you, just simply walk away and they’ll leave you alone.
  • Even though there is a police and army presence on site, it is still recommended that you take extra care of your belongings, especially during the high season. Rome’s pickpockets are notoriously skilled at what they do - Don’t leave anything unattended to take a photo and don't make it easy for your wallet or your phone to be lifted.
  • Before you enter, you are going to have to pass through a security gate, much like the kind you go through at the airport. Due to global terrorism, security measures have increased which often results in delays for tourists. Visitors are not permitted to take in drinks or large bags and tripods are also frowned upon. You should pack light on the day of your visit to save time. 
  • As mentioned above, your tickets are valid for two days, but do not allow for re-entry. If you end up spending way too much time at the Colosseum and would prefer to leave the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill to the next day, that is an option. Most people however spend about three hours at the Colosseum and are still able to finish all three sites on the same day.
  • If your plan is to visit the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill on the same day, I recommend visiting the Colosseum first and then taking a break to get some lunch before continuing your day. There are a lot of food options in the area but most are overpriced tourist traps. You may want to consider taking a short walk down ‘Via die Fori Imperiali’ and turning right onto ‘Via Cavour’ to check out some of the many restaurants and gelateria’s there which will be cheaper and have smaller crowds.
  • After a long day of sightseeing you’ll probably want to have dinner and relax in a fine Roman restaurant. Don’t end your day too early though. Make sure to head back to the Colosseum to check it out after dark which provides for some great photos.

A visit to the Colosseum is a must for any traveller visiting Rome - If you visit Rome and for some reason don’t bother going to the Colosseum or checking out the Roman Forum, you seriously will have missed out and may want to have your brain examined by a medical professional.

In all of my travels I don’t think I can say that I’ve ever felt as overwhelmed as I did than when I visited the Colosseum - It should be fairly obvious why it is one of the top places to visit on any travellers ‘bucket-list' and if you have the chance to visit, you will quickly realize why it has inspired people from all over the world for the last two thousand years.


Buddha's World Abandoned Theme Park (佛陀世界)

When I first came to Taiwan over a decade ago, one of the first things I absolutely had to do was buy a scooter. I often take heat from expats living in Taipei who scoff at the idea of owning a scooter, but at that time having a scooter meant that I could freely explore the completely foreign area I was living in and I could take care of my daily business much more easily. 

Taiwan was a bit different back in those days (it wasn’t actually that long ago) and when it came to having a scooter, it didn’t really matter if I had already obtained my residency permit, a drivers license or even if I wore a helmet. My friends and I were able to walk into a local scooter shop, negotiate a price and a few days later walk away with some finely tuned second-hand scooters for which to explore with! 

A few days after buying my first scooter, I came home to a table full of Taiwan Beer and my new friends patiently waiting for me. They said we were going to take a ride out to check out some 'mountains' and a 'reservoir'. I sounded like a weird plan, but who was I to turn down an adventure that involved free beer? 

Little did I know that after my first ride out to Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) that I’d be end up living in Taiwan for so long, nor that I’d find myself driving out there countless more times to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Shimen Reservoir has been attracting tourists since it was completed in the early 1960s. Tourists come not only to enjoy the spectacular scenery created by the dam, but all of the tourist attractions that later sprung up in the area around the dam.

As of late the reservoir has become an area for nature enthusiasts who enjoy the beauty of the artificial lake by taking ferry rides, hike to the peak of Shimen Mountain (石門山) or who come to enjoy cherry, peach and Tung blossoms, azaleas and maple trees.

There was a time though when the area was home to several amusement parks, large resorts and a bunch of other random tourist traps.

Even though 'tourism' has been a constant fixture at the reservoir since its completion, the number of visitors tends to vary by season. In the 1970s and 80s people developed the crap out of the countryside with little thought into the actual business side of things. 

Visitors today are likely to notice a few of the various attractions that have been abandoned over time which is clear evidence of not only the overzealous nature of the way the area was developed but also the unsustainable nature of the tourism industry and the downfall of Taiwan's once booming economy. 

The view of Shimen Dam from Buddha's World.

There are a number of other abandoned attractions and resorts in the area which notably includes the Sesame Hotel (芝麻大酒店), Kunlun Gardens (崑崙養生莊園), the Golden Birds Paradise (金鳥海族樂園) and the Asia Paradise Theme Park (亞洲樂園) among others. 

The subject of today’s post is a semi-abandoned amusement park which was once known as 'Fairy Tale World' (童話世界), but is now known as “Buddha World” (佛陀世界). 

Even though its not an amusement park anymore, Buddha's World has become a popular weekend stop as it has become a spot for urban explorers as well as the so-called Instagram internet beauties (網美) of Taiwan.

Buddha’s World (佛陀世界)

On one of those early trips to Shimen Reservoir, I noticed that there were some weird objects and broken bridges protruding from the mountain on the southern side of the dam. Each time I visited I tried to figure out a way to see what was going on, but eventually came to the conclusion that I’d probably have to use a boat to get there and that wasn't likely to happen. 

The mysterious objects however slowly disappeared over time and it seems like each time I visited the dam there was less of what was once hidden on the mountain.

Then all of the sudden a castle-like structure suddenly went viral on Instagram becoming a weekend hot spot for curious onlookers and the mystery was solved! 

The castle is part of what is now called “Buddha’s World” (佛陀世界), a quiet Buddhist monastery that was constructed on land which was once home to an abandoned theme park.

The theme park, which was originally named Fairy Tale Land (童話世界) was a large knockoff of Disneyland that opened up over forty years ago. The park ultimately ended up being forced out of business by the local government a few decades ago due to environmental issues. 

The land around the reservoir is notorious for having sediment issues and the local authorities couldn't allow construction in the area to cause water degradation to the reservoir which provides water service for millions of people in northern Taiwan. 

The land was later bought by the Rinzai Buddhist sect (臨濟宗) who thought that they would be able to use it not only for a monastery, but a Buddhist themed park for tourists. Unfortunately, the same environmental concerns that forced Fairy Tale Land out of business made it impossible for the sect to construct anything on the land meaning that the planned theme park would never come to fruition. 

Rinzai Buddhist Temples: Puji Temple (Beitou) | Huguo Rinzai Temple (Taipei)

With the idea for an amusement park abandoned, the area became a place of solitude for the monks and nuns who lived there. The original structures that were left over from Fairy Tale Land still existed, but were used merely for storage forcing most of them to fall into disrepair and eventually being torn down.

For most people, the main attraction of Buddha’s World is the Fairy Tale Castle, which is only a short walk from the entrance. The castle is admittedly quite picturesque with the mountains behind it but it is also not long for this world as the building has become hazardous.

If you continue on past the castle, you’ll pass by a fake looking statue of Mickey Mouse and then further on there is a giant statue of what looks like Sun Wu-Kong (孫悟空) of “Journey to the West” (西遊記) fame. The statue is hideous and looks very much like something that you'd expect from 1980s Taiwan. 

Beyond the statue you’ll find a platform that offers beautiful views of the Shimen Reservoir as well as a Buddhist temple where the monks and nuns likely spend a lot of time in quiet contemplation.

The real treat for explorers though is if you continue down the mountain where you’ll find at least four abandoned castle-like buildings that were once used as accommodations for people visiting the park. The largest of those (which is the one closest to the lake-shore) is completely open and you’re able to walk in and explore.

If you want to visit Buddha’s World, there are a few things you have to remember - The area is on private land owned by a Buddhist group. They allow guests to enter free of charge but only on weekends and only between 9:00am - 3:30pm.

While you are visiting, I recommend exploring a bit more of the park than just the castle at the entrance. If you take the time to go, at least check out the viewing platform which is only a five minute walk away from the castle where you are able to take some beautiful photos of the reservoir.

While this one could be considered 'urban exploration', I think most people are just visiting for a shot of the castle, which is a rare sight in Taiwan. I took a bit of extra time and explored the rest of what the park has to offer and I think you should too. But that will take a bit of a hike to get all the way down the hill and you may be a bit disappointed with what you find. 

You'll be able to explore the abandoned hotel at the bottom though and the old waterslide is kind of a cool thing to look at as it has been completely taken over by nature. 

Getting There

I don’t usually reveal locations when it comes to urban exploration sites, but this place is hardly a secret anymore, so there isn’t much point. The route to Buddha’s World is along a mountain road that takes you from Taoyuan into Hsinchu’s Guanxi Village. It is an easy road to navigate and there isn’t a lot of traffic, so if you are on a bicycle, a scooter or are driving a car, you’ll be able to easily find your way.

 

Address: #23 Dazhukeng, Guanxi Village, Hsinchu (新竹縣關西鎮大竹坑23號)

If you are in the area you may also want to consider checking out any of the following spots which are a short distance from Shimen Reservoir: 

Daxi Old Street | Daxi Martial Arts Hall | Longtan Martial Arts Hall | Cihu Mausoleum | Daxi Tea Factory | Sanmin Bat Cave | The TUBA Church | Dong'An Bridge  

And if you're hungry: Laotoubai Hakka Cuisine