Italy

The Ruins of Pompeii

The Ruins of Pompeii, an ancient Roman City in Southern Italy has piqued the interest of popular culture and the world’s travellers ever since it was rediscovered in the mid 18th century. 

The story of Pompeii's destruction is one that has been told over and over again through art, literature, film, etc. What happened on that fateful day almost two thousand years ago when Mount Vesuvius erupted may have ended the lives of all of the city's inhabitants but the city lives on today as not only one of the top tourist attractions in Italy but one that is constantly the subject of archaeological study and discovery. 

Pompeii's story is a sad one, but it is one that has given us so much knowledge about the art, customs and everyday life of an advanced society in the ancient world.

History

What happened in the ancient city of Pompeii was a tragedy that erased all life from a prosperous and developed Roman city. In tragedy however there is beauty as the disaster that destroyed an ancient city also preserved it and its culture for the modern world to marvel at.

As far as we can tell right now, it is believed that the city of Pompeii was founded about 2600-2700 years ago. Initially it was an independent city but came under Rome’s sphere of influence sometime in the 4th Century BC.

Before its destruction in 79AD, the city was home to a complex water system that provided water services to all of its inhabitants as well as having a giant amphitheatre, gymnasium, hot springs bath rooms, brothels, elegant houses, paved streets and a port.

Unfortunately, as most of us learned in school, in 79AD, nearby Mount Vesuvius erupted which resulted in the deaths of all of Pompeii’s inhabitants, burying them as well as the city under tons of volcanic ash.

Scientists have since discovered that the eruption released thermal energy more than 100,000 times that of the Hiroshima-Nagasaki Nuclear Bombs.

Even though most people today know about Pompeii’s destruction, it’s important to note that Pompeii was not the only victim of the eruption as several other towns in the area were also destroyed which notably includes the neighbouring city of Herculaneum.

The death toll caused by the eruption is still unknown, but the remains of about 1,500 people have so far been unearthed at both Pompeii and Herculaneum and just as I'm posting this blog the first body to be discovered in more than a decade was found in a bath house. 

Link: Pompeii Archaeologists Unearth Child Skeleton from Ashes of Vesuvius (4/25/18)

After the destruction of the city, all memory of its existence disappeared for well over 1500 years before being rediscovered in 1748 by Spanish engineer Rocque Joaquin de Alcubierre. The ruins of the city of Pompeii and its residents have since been an archaeologists dream job with efforts to unearth the entire city ongoing for well over 250 years.

Thanks to the lack of air and moisture, the artefacts that have been found have helped to provide an extraordinary look into the life of an ancient Roman city.

Today almost three million people live near Mount Vesuvius and even though it has not erupted since 1944, it is still considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world.

Experts agree that the next big eruption could come any day which would once again spell disaster for the people living in the region. 

Travelling Tips

One of the most frustrating aspects of planning my trip to Pompeii was that (unless I planned to take part in an expensive guided tour from Rome) almost all of the information about how to get there was confusing and in most cases every article that I read contradicted the others.

I hope that if you take away anything from this blog post, it would be from my travel experience and the tips I’m about to share.

  • The first tip I’m going to give probably won’t be a popular one with those in the tourist industry in the area, but you seriously don’t need to join a tour group to go to Pompeii. You can hire a tour guide when you arrive if you like, but the insanely priced tour packages out of Rome are just tourist traps and you’d be silly to fall for them.
  • The next tip is that Pompeii is definitely doable as a day trip out of Rome - We took a high speed train from Termini Station to Napoli Centrale Station and from there took a local train from Naples to Pompeii. This may seem like one of the most confusing and contradicting aspects of planning your trip to Pompeii thanks to online literature, but trust me, its simple.
  • There are a number of articles online that use scare tactics to warn travellers about the 'dangers' of walking around Napoli Centrale Station. Let me tell you, as a major transportation hub in Italy, Naples train station is well protected with not only armed security, police and an army presence. Travellers should take normal precaution, but don’t be afraid, you’re more than safe in Naples.
  • You are going to save a lot of money on your trip to Pompeii if you book your train tickets to Naples well in advance. Don’t leave getting a seat on the train to the last minute as you’ll end up paying a considerable amount more if you wait. I used the Rail Europe website to book my tickets which allowed me to search for the cheapest prices on all of Italy’s rail services.
  • One of the most confusing aspects of taking the train to Pompeii is that once you arrive at Napoli Centrale, you have to switch to a local train that will take you down the coast to Pompeii. You cannot pre-order tickets for this leg of your trip, but getting train tickets is simple and hopping on the train to Pompeii is not only a scenic ride down the coast but an interesting in terms of people watching as you get to see a side of the Italian people that you won’t see in Rome.
  • Pompeii is a major tourist attraction, it is very important to buy your entrance tickets in advance. Pre-ordering your tickets means you won’t have to wait in a long line and can enter the park as soon as you arrive. Make sure to either have the advance tickets printed out or available as a PDF that can be scanned on your smart phone. I purchased by tickets online through Musement which allows you to skip-the-line and gives you full access to the site for the day you purchased the tickets. Advance tickets should cost around €13 per person and if you want to add an audio guide, it is €8 per person. There are also discount rates available for children and students. 

Pompeii Forum

  • The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Pompeii is not something you are going to be able to see in an hour or two. You are going to need the better part of a day to really see the place and even then, you’re still going to leave with the feeling that you could have seen more. Remember, Pompeii was once a large city and the archaeological site is opening up more and more of that former city each and every year. Try your best to see and learn as much as possible.
  • When you are at the admissions gate, you need to be absolutely sure to take a map of the area. If you don’t get one you are either going to miss out on some of the most important areas to visit or end up getting lost. Maps are free with admission, so be sure to grab one. The people at the admissions counter are not always that forthcoming with passing them out.
  • If you are leaving from Rome, make sure you have a filling Italian breakfast that includes not only food but an espresso that will give you enough energy for the day. You should also consider purchasing water (Pompeii is a wide open space and it gets very hot) as well as something to snack on while you are in the park as you’re likely to get hungry.
  • Be wary of the weather conditions on the day of your visit. If the forecast is calling for sun, make sure you dress appropriately. Likewise, if its going to rain make sure you have a rain coat and umbrella. There are few places where you can take shelter from the elements in Pompeii, so the weather can be a major factor in whether or not you enjoy your trip. Make sure to also wear comfortable footwear as well - The two thousand year old stone road isn’t easy to walk on. 

Amphitheatre of Pompeii

  • You’ll see warnings online that you are not permitted to take in bags with you when you visit Pompeii. This rule isn’t explained well, but what they mean isn’t a day pack or a camera bag, it means you can’t take your luggage in with you and drag it along the old stone roads. I was originally afraid I was going to have to put my camera bag in a locker, but no one even bothered to look at it - although there may be a security check during high season. 
  • When you’re done checking out Pompeii be sure to check out a little bit of Naples when you take the local train back into town. Naples is a cool city and is the birthplace of pizza, so if you’re there, make sure to at least try some of it. There is a large selection of famous pizzerias offering up traditional Napoli pizza but as I was visiting during the off-season I figured I could be bold and visit one of the most famous - L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. Let me tell you, once you try the pizza at this quaint little pizzeria, you’ll never look at the dish in the same way again. It’s a taste of heaven and even better, its only a short walk from the train station. 

Getting There

Tourists in Pompeii's Theatre

So the big question is how do you get to Pompeii? Well, if you have loads of money and want to be led around by some guy with a microphone and a flag, then arrange a day-tour from one of the many tour companies in Rome.

If you however are travelling on a budget, it is still quite easy to get yourself to Pompeii to enjoy a great day walking around the old city. As I mentioned above, the information that you find online about getting to Pompeii, especially on travel sites like TripAdvisor, tends to be outdated, contradicting and is full of scare tactics to keep you away.

When I first started planning my day trip to Pompeii, the information I was reading ended up almost scaring me out of visiting. Not only did it seem like getting from Rome to Naples was a pain in the ass, but getting from Naples to Pompeii was extremely dangerous and difficult.

Better leave it to the professionals, right?

Let me dispel a bit of these online rumours - Getting to Pompeii is simple, inexpensive and safe!

As I mentioned above though there is a bit of preparation involved in getting to Pompeii before you even leave home, so I can only imagine people running into difficulties if they leave everything to the last minute.

Step 1:  Pre-order your admission tickets.

This is important as it’ll allow you to skip the lines, which can be quite long in summer.

Step 2: Pre-order your train tickets from Rome to Naples. 

To ensure that you not only get a seat but also one at the cheapest price. Remember, the earlier your book your tickets, the cheaper they are going to be. If you use the Euro Rail website, you’ll be able to compare prices between the various high speed rail carriers. I used Trenitalia on my way to Naples and Italotreno on my way back to Rome and found both High Speed Train carriers to offer extremely comfortable seating at comparable prices.

Step 3: Transfer to Circumvesuviana Train 

Now, I guess this is what is considered the “difficult” part of the whole trip - When you arrive at Napoli Centrale, what do you do next? Online literature makes it out to be extremely difficult and dangerous. It’s not - You walk into the interior of Napoli Centrale station, exit the turnstiles and turn right looking for a set of escalators that take you downstairs to Napoli Garibaldi Station.

Part of the confusion for people is that Naples Central Station is major transport hub for not only the national High Speed Rail Network, but also the Terminal Station for the regional Circumvesuviana Network and the Napoli Metro - All of which are in the same building. Don't get confused by the names. Napoli Centrale and Napoli Garibaldi are part of the same complex!  

Ancient wall art. 

When you take the escalator downstairs you will see signage that points you in the direction of Garibaldi and the Naples Metro. Follow the overhead signs until you get to the turnstiles at Garibaldi. When you arrive there walk up to the ticket booth and request return tickets to Pompeii Scavi.

Step 4: Naples - Sorrento (Southbound) Train

Once you buy the tickets, walk through the turnstiles and walk downstairs to the platform to wait for your train. The train usually comes every fifteen-thirty minutes with the ride to Pompeii-Scavi taking anywhere between forty minutes to an hour.

Timetable for the Naples - Sorrento (Southbound) line! 

You may ask why I’m not recommending readers take a bus from Naples to Pompeii. It’s quite simple actually, not only is the train service fast and cheap, it drops you off at Pompeii-Scavi Station, which is a two minute walk to the entrance of the site.

I can’t think of anything more convenient than taking this train.

Once you’re done in Pompeii, all you have to do is walk out of the park and with your return ticket hop back onto the train to Naples to have some pizza before heading back to Rome or wherever your next destination is! 

Theatre

Don’t let the logistics of planning a day trip to Pompeii frustrate you to the point of not visiting. You will most definitely enjoy a day trip outside of Rome to both Pompeii and Naples. The well-preserved yet ruined ancient Roman city is one of those things that will fascinate tourists of all ages and is highly recommended. Where else can you walk around a two thousand year old abandoned city and end your day in the birthplace of pizza? 


Trevi Fountain

A visit to Rome is sure to be an action-packed and unforgettable adventure that puts everything you learned in History class to the test - If you were a good student and paid attention in class, you’re bound to appreciate everything you see and do in the ancient city. Don’t worry though, if you weren’t a good student, you’re still going to be awestruck walking around the ancient city and seeing all these amazing things that you've never seen before!  

While buildings like the Colosseum and the Pantheon are some of the main tourist attractions in the city, not everything has to date back over a thousand years to the Roman Empire to be impressive. Rome has always been considered one of the most important cities in the world not only for its former military conquests but also for its culture, art and technological innovations. 

The unparalleled history of the city is one solely of great success and human development but also large scale failures and corruption which have allowed the city to be destroyed or pillaged on a number of occasions. What we see on the streets of the city today is a reflection of that history as there is a healthy mixture of old and new on every street corner. 

The Rome that we know and love today was given new life in the 17th Century thanks to the efforts of a collection of legendary artists, designers and architects during the Renaissance period as well as for a style of architectural design that was born of the city and eventually spread throughout Europe and the rest of the world creating some of the most iconic buildings that we have today. 

What we know today as "Baroque" architecture transformed the decaying city into the beautiful one we see today. In true Roman fashion, Baroque designs promoted grandeur and extravagance and came along at the most opportune time as the city was experiencing its first taste of opulence in nearly a thousand years.

Today the designs of Baroque's elite, Bernini, Borromini and Pietro da Cortona can be seen all over the city thanks to the patronage of the Catholic Church which funded most of the city’s modern renewal. 

When it comes to Baroque art and design, there is no where better to visit than Rome, and the subject of today’s post is just one of the many masterpieces in the city. The Trevi Fountain is considered to be one of the most beautiful fountains in the entire world and is grand not only in size but also its artistic design and if you pay close attention, you'll notice that the fountain is telling you a story - which happens to be the history of Rome itself. 

 History

There are over 2,000 fountains in Rome - more than any other city in the world. Of those fountains, fifty of them are considered monumental and the rest are smaller and are used as public drinking spaces. 

To talk about the history of the Trevi Fountain, or any of Rome’s major fountains, it is important to start with one of the ancient world's most important engineering projects, the aqueduct system, which brought water into Roman cities and towns supplying citizens with drinking water as well as for public baths, latrines, etc.

The aqueduct system is what separated Ancient Rome from any other city in human history as the availability of clean running water allowed it to expand at rates previously unseen becoming the first city to have a population of more than a million residents.

Prior to the construction of the aqueduct system, Rome, like every other city in the world relied on local water sources which included streams and springs as well as underground wells and seasonal rain-water. As Rome grew however, the water supply not only became insufficient but was polluted causing health issues for the residents of the city.  

In 326BC, censor Appius Claudius Caecus commissioned the first of Rome’s aqueducts named the "Aqua Appia" which provided the city with 75,500 cubic meters of water per year. As demand for water continued to grow though, the city was forced to construct ten more aqueduct systems all of which were completed by 109AD.

In total, the eleven aqueducts combined for a length of approximately 800 kilometres (both above and under ground) and supplied the city with 300 million gallons of water a day.

Although the aqueduct system was one of Ancient Rome’s greatest strengths, it was also one of its biggest tactical weaknesses as the water supply became a prime target for the enemies of the empire who on August 24, 410, were finally able to sack the city.

Even though by that time the city had ceased to be the capital of the Western Roman Empire, its loss to King Alaric and the Visigoths was symbolic of the decline of the once great civilization, which would itself cease to exist less than sixty years later. 

For almost a thousand years after the Sack of Rome, the aqueducts which once made the city great had fallen into disrepair or were completely destroyed.

In the 14th Century Pope Nicholas V made it his mission to restore Rome and make it a ‘worthy capital of the Christian world.'

One of the projects undertaken by the Pope was to rebuild the Acqua Vergine to bring clean drinking water into the city. As part of this project he also decided to revive the old custom of marking the arrival point of an aqueduct with a ‘mostra’ or a grand commemorative fountain.

Over the next few centuries, successors to Pope Nicholas V continued the work of restoring the other aqueducts as well as remaining committed to building large display fountains at at their terminal locations, despite the high cost. 

The Trevi Fountain or ‘Fontana di Trevi’ was constructed at the terminus of the Acqua Vergine and is the largest and most spectacular of all of Rome’s commemorative fountains. 

In 1730, Pope Clement XII organized a competition to design the future fountain. The contest was originally won by a Florentine named Alessandro Galilei, but the people of Rome were none too pleased with the fact that a Roman wasn’t chosen, so after public outcry the commission was awarded to Nicola Salvi who began construction on the fountain two years later.

It took over thirty years to complete work on the Trevi Fountain, but halfway through its construction Salvi died leaving the rest of the work to Giuseppe Pannini who completed the 85 foot tall and 165 foot wide fountain in 1762. 

Design

According to legend, Roman General Agrippa sent out a group of soldiers to search for a water source near Rome. The soldiers spent a considerable amount of time searching but the spring could only found with the help of a local (virgin) girl pointed it out to the soldiers.

The young virgin thus became not only the namesake of the "Acqua Vergine" (Aqua Virgo) but also one of the subjects of the design of the Trevi Fountain.

The central figure on the fountain is a large sculpture of Neptune or “Ocean”, the god of the sea who is riding a shell-shaped chariot pulled by two sea horses. Each of the sea-horses differs in design as one appears to be calm and obedient while the other is restive - which is thought to symbolize the calm yet sometimes violent nature of the sea.

On either side of Neptune are statues representing “Abundance” (left) and “Salubrity” (right). Above each of those statues are reliefs which depict Agrippa, the general who built the aqueduct on the left while the relief on the right pays homage to the virgin who brought the soldiers to the water source.

Above those reliefs are statues of four women who represent the four seasons with Pope Clement XII’s coat of arms above them and a plate of text between them which reads:

CLEMENS XII PONT. MAX. AQUAM VIRGINEM COPIA ET SALUBRITATE COMMENDATAM CULTO MAGNIFICO ORNAVIT ANNO DOMINI MDCCXXXV PONT VI

Translated into English: “Clemens XII Pontifex Maximus (Pope) decorated the Virgin Aqueduct and Committed it with Abundance and Salubrity to the magnificent cult in the Year of the Lord 1735, 6th year of his Pontificate.”

If you look closely enough, the fountain is also home to over thirty species of plants that are native to the region as well as some animals and sea creatures.

So what makes this fountain a masterpiece of baroque design? The fundamental characteristic of Baroque art is dynamism, which means that there should be a sense of motion with strong curves and beautiful decorations.

Now, if you look at the fountain, the most important thing to notice is the sense of motion. The water flowing from the mountain makes it seem as if Neptune is riding his shell towards you. If you look at it long enough, it gives off a 3D-like effect, which is quite an amazing design technique for the 1700s.

Not only are the sculptures masterfully crafted, but the sense of motion defines the fountain in a way that moves almost each and every person who views it. This is why it is a masterpiece and is why it had set a standard that has never been surpassed.

The fountain which is built against the rear wall of the Palazzo Poli is constructed of travertine, the same material which was used to construct Rome’s most famous landmark - The Colosseum. Today the Palazzo Poli is a modern art museum, but its popularity is obviously trumped by the fountain which is one of the most widely visited landmarks in the city. 

The fountain underwent a year-long restoration project between 2014-2015 which most notably included the careful installation of more than 100 LED lights. The lights improved the after-dark illumination of the fountain and was done in such a thoughtful way that the new technology added to the design of the fountain.  

If you are in Rome and you plan to check out the fountain, don’t just visit once. Check it out during the day and also at night when it is illuminated by the lights.

Throwing a Coin?

People everywhere

While visiting Trevi Fountain, you are going to have to put up with large crowds of people, especially during the summer when it is high season. The amount of people crowded around taking photos in such a small space can make it a bit difficult to get up close and personal for you own photos. When you do get close enough though, something you are going to notice is that people are throwing coins into the fountain.

Making a wish at a fountain is tradition that is practiced all over the world, but at the Trevi Fountain there is a legend that goes a little like this:

  • If you throw one coin into the fountain: You will return to Rome.
  • If you throw two coins into the fountain: You will fall in love with an Italian.
  • If you throw three coins into the fountain: You will get married to that person.

If you want any of these wishes to come true however you must use your right hand to throw the coin over your left shoulder and into the water. If you are looking for love, a three euro donation to the fountain might be a good idea! I figured a return trip to the beautiful city was what I wanted most, so I only threw one coin!

Coincidentally with the amount of tourists that visit the fountain, the staff are able to fish out well over a million euros every year - which is then donated to fund a supermarket for Rome’s needy. 

Getting There

Rome is a walking city, no matter where you’re staying in the city, pretty much everything you’ll want to see is within walking distance. It gets hot during the summer though, so for those who don’t really feel like walking around all the time, you can get to Trevi Fountain on Line A (Red) of the Rome Metro and exiting at Barberini Station.

 

Address: Piazza di Trevi, 00187 Rome, Italy

While in the area you should probably get some Gelato at the famous “Il Gelato di San Crispino” which is a short walk behind the fountain or make your way to other sites like Piazza Colonna, Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps, Piazza Barberini, the Pantheon, etc. which are all a short distance away.

When in Rome, you’re likely going to have an action packed schedule of things to see and places to go. It should be no surprise that the Trevi Fountain usually ends up near the top of everyone’s list - Not only is it the most beautiful fountain in the world, but unlike a lot of other tourist attractions in the city, it doesn’t cost you anything to visit - unless of course you decide to make a wish!