tourism

Water Buffalo Valley (水牛坑)

I was a little late to the Instagram game but since I started posting photos there over a year ago I've used the platform to not only share photos but also meet up with quite a few well-known Instagrammers as well as used the platform to stay on top of what's happening around the country.

As a social media network, if you take follow the right people, especially here in Taiwan, you're likely to learn about a bunch of new locations and interesting places to take photos. Instagrammers (for the most part) are a special group of photographers that constantly have their fingers on the pulse of what's viral in photography not only here in Taiwan but all over the world.

In recent months I have paid close attention to some of the places that have become Insta-popular for the Instagrammers of Taiwan and have visited on my own and blogged about them.

These spots have included mountains like Kite Mountain (鳶山) and Jinmian Mountain (金面山) as well as scenic locations like the one just outside of Beipu where Taiwanese Cypress trees grow and we're in the process of changing colours.  

If you pay attention there is always something interesting to learn.  

Thanks to Instagram I have added quite a few locations to my list of places and always feel inspired when I see photography thriving within social communities.

Today's post is about one of those hot spots - A beautiful valley that sits between the mountains and the ocean and has the added feature of being the home for a bunch of wild water buffalo.

Water Buffalo Valley (水牛坑) sits alongside the West Coast Expressway (西部濱海快速公路) and is easily accessible for anyone who wants to visit.

The valley is popular not only for its scenic landscape but also for the docile and human-friendly water buffalo that graze on the grounds.

When something goes viral in Taiwan, the local media isn't far behind looking for a scoop and in this case several articles have been published about the area fueling the popularity of this small tourist attraction over the past few months.

Dubbed the Taiwanese "Grand Canyon" (大峽谷), the small valley has become an instant hit with both the young and old of Taiwan who come for the scenery but also to take selfies with the water buffalo who graze and enjoy the sun in the valley.

Whomever in the media decided to dub the place "Taiwan's Grand Canyon" is probably missing a brain cell or two though because there is very little in terms of similarities between this place and the actual Grand Canyon. 

The west coast of Taiwan. 

I'm guessing that whoever gave it the nickname "Grand Canyon" has never been to the actual Grand Canyon nor have they seen any pictures of it.

This type of behaviour isn't really a new thing with the Taiwanese media which has a habit of naming Taiwan's beautiful landscapes after places in other parts of the world as of Taiwan's tourist spots were somehow inferior to those overseas.

Examples of this behaviour are when people refer to Shifen Waterfall as the "Niagara of Taiwan" or Qing Jing Farm (清境農場) as the "Swiss Alps of Taiwan" or Yushan (玉山) as the "Mount Fuji of Taiwan".

It seems that when the media compares a tourist spot to somewhere else around the world, it suddenly makes that place more attractive.

As far as I'm concerned, Taiwan doesn't have to compare itself to anywhere else in the world.

As a person who comes from a country that is often considered one of the 'most beautiful' countries in the world, I can attest that Taiwan has a lot going for it and the natural beauty of this country offers so much to visitors.

Even after a decade of living here I haven't seen everything that I want to see and no silly comparisons are necessary. 

Anyway, back to the Water Buffalo Valley.

Before I start, I suppose I should probably explain my reasoning as to why I call it "Water Buffalo Valley."

There isn't actually an English name for this place and I was at a bit of a loss of words for what to actually call it.

The problem with the English translation of the name lies not with the "水牛" part which directly translates as "Water Buffalo" but with the "坑" part which refers to a "pit" or a "hole".

This place isn't really a 'pit' or a 'hole', but more like an actual valley that sits between mountains and the west coast of the country.

If you can come up with a better name, let me know in the comments below - I'll gladly change it!

From what I've seen there are a couple of reasons why this place has become so popular as of late: 

The Landscape

The watering pits with cows and tourists. 

The landscape of this area is a bit different than what you'd typically see in a mountainous area in Taiwan. There are a few reasons that the valley looks like this - First, it is likely a result of a mixture of erosion and weathering due to its geographic location in a cove next to the ocean.

It is also possible that the mountain was once much larger than it is today and was dug up for purposes of making cement.

The nearby industrial area full of cement trucks and the dirt roads that lead further up into the mountains are likely evidence enough of that.

Nevertheless, the shape of the mountain and the way that it looks like it was cut on one side shows allows for some good looking photos with a colour that I suppose could be interpreted as looking something like the Grand Canyon if you have a really good imagination. 

The Cows

I'm eating bro. Get lost. 

The water buffalo that roam freely through the valley are probably the main attraction to people who want to visit the area. The cows are quite docile and seem like they're used to human contact.

They're wild animals though, so I wouldn't recommend pissing them off.

For the most part the cows move around really slowly and spend most of their time grazing or taking a dip in the two small lakes. They pose for photos pretty well and confusingly gaze at the young girls who strike up their strange 'Instagram poses' next to them.

As a viral location there are a few areas with this place that I think will eventually become issues. The first is that the mountain isn't particularly stable - I walked up to the top of it and looked over the ledge and felt that the ground beneath me wasn't particularly strong enough to support the amount of tourists walking up and down it.

I imagine that if quite a few people are walking up and down the mountain that eventually something might happen which will cause the land owners or the local authorities to shut it down.

The next issue has to do with the cows - The water buffalo are quite docile. They don't move very quickly and they're more interested in grazing than they are the people who are hanging out on their turf. 

The problem is that even though these animals are docile, they are also naturally protective of each other - If someone shows up and starts bullying or chasing around one of the young calves then I imagine that one of the bulls might take exception to that and take care of the situation.

While I was visiting a mother and grandma showed up with their two boys and started chasing around a calf which started calling towards its mother and tried to escape to safety.

For the most part it isn't common for people in Taiwan to come in contact with wild animals like this and I assume that because of this they don't really know how to react when they see them.

On the day I went not only the two boys were chasing the calf but so was the mother and the grandma - This type of behaviour will eventually result in someone getting hurt and having the place shut down.

In both cases, I hope neither happens but with the sudden popularity of the spot and the amount of people showing up on a daily basis, an accident is bound to happen. If you do visit, please remember to respect the animals in their natural environment and also be careful walking up the slope.

Getting there

Getting to the valley can be a bit difficult if you don't have your own means of transportation. If you are driving a car or a scooter all you have to do is get to the West Coast Highway and you'll eventually arrive.

If you're coming from Taipei you'll have to pass the valley and make a U-Turn at some point as you can't cross the busy divided highway.

If you need to rely on public transportation to get there, I think the best way to get there is to probably take a YouBike from Guandu MRT station and cross the Guandu bridge and follow the coastal highway until you arrive. It may take you more than an hour to get there but at least the route is scenic.

The other way to get there is to take bus F236 from Linkou and back the bus only runs five times a day (during the weekend) and you might end up getting stuck in the middle of nowhere for a while if you do take it.

 

The valley is a pretty cool place to visit and if you're into Instagram, it has become one of those go-to places to visit as of late.

Even if you're not an Instagrammer, it is a cool place to visit with the mountain, the cows and nice views of the ocean.

If you plan on visiting, remember that it likely will be quiet crowded on the weekend and that you should make sure that you don't bother the animals or get hurt. 


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Shots)

Taiwanese Cypress Trees (北埔六塘落羽松)

Autumn in Canada is one of the most picturesque times of the year where the forests change colours and the leaves start to fall to the ground. In my home province of Nova Scotia on Canada's east coast nature puts on a spectacular show that makes me feel a bit nostalgic when I see friends and family posting photos of the beautiful landscape.

Here in Taiwan trees change colour as well but not to the same extent as back home - The most enjoyable difference between Taiwan and Canada however is the trees that bloom early in the year with cherry, plum and tong blossoms.

When Taiwan's blossoms start to bloom, Taiwanese people take part in the age-old Japanese tradition referred to as "Hanami" (花見) or "flower viewing". Hanami-related activities in Taiwan aren't exclusive to cherry blossoms though and is a year-round activity that gets people to travel around the country during the various blooming seasons.

The current "Hanami" type craze in Taiwan is to view the beautiful Taiwanese cypress trees that are currently changing colours. The hills of Hsinchu, especially in the Jianshi (尖石) area are one of the best places in northern Taiwan to see the trees at the moment but the most popular location is one in the hills behind the popular Beipu Old Street (北浦老街) in southern Hsinchu county.

The location is most popular due to the fact that the persimmon farmers in the area have developed a small cypress viewing area with a beautiful little lake that gives off the reflection of the trees on a sunny day.

I'm not sure how long these trees are going to stay this colour, but the social media hype over the past few weeks for these trees has been pretty big so I figured I should go see it for myself as soon as I could.

If you're interested and have access to your own transportation you can check the map below with directions to the small farm where you can see the cypress trees.

 

Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺)

This post is a continuation on my series of posts on the historic Monga (艋舺) district of Taipei. In the first three posts I shared photos of Qingshan Temple and the Qingshan King Festival which is a lively Taoist festival which takes place every year in late November/early December. Then I continued with a short series of street shots from around the district. Today I'm finishing the series with a look at Longshan Temple which is considered in some circles to be the most important temple in the city. If you haven't seen the five two posts in the series I've linked to them below:

Qingshan Temple and King Festival (青山宮/青山靈安尊王) 

Part 1 | Part Two | Temple

Street Photography posts

Bangka Park | The temple | Streets of Bangka


Main facade of the temple

Well this is it, the day has come - I started this website and this blog over fifteen months ago and I've travelled all over the country introducing Taiwan to people mixing my photography, language ability and my experience to the best of my ability, but the day has finally come, after introducing many other temples, it's time for me to talk about Longshan Temple!

Longshan temple is one of Taiwan's most iconic temples, at any given time of the day you will find it is full of Taiwanese and tourists alike and it clearly deserves all the accolades it gets. I know this will be a post that gets more web traffic than all my other temple posts but what I hope I can do is offer some great information about the temple but also include some slight nudges that point tourists in the direction of Taiwan’s other beautiful temples, places that don't get the attention they deserve.

Guanyin (觀世音菩薩)

I love Longshan temple and I've probably been inside it more than a hundred times. I hope the introduction above didn't make you think I was going to be hard on the temple – If you look at my photoshop catalogue of photos over the years I'm sure you'll notice a recurring theme of randomly visiting the temple once every few months. Not much changes in the temple, but what makes it most interesting is all of the activity and the people inside and that is what keeps me coming back.

Monga Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺) is an 1800 square meter temple in the Monga district of Taipei. It was built in 1738 by Hokkien settlers from Fujian province who settled in the area. The original temple was modelled after a temple of the same name in Quanzhou (泉州) which is in Fujian province. When the temple was completed in 1738 the resident Guanyin statue was brought from China to share some of its “power” (分靈) with the newly constructed temple in the same sort of way that the Matzu statue from the popular Jenn Lan Temple (鎮瀾宮) does every year during the Dajia Matzu Pilgrimage (大甲媽祖繞境進香.)

Candles in the front hall

Candles in the rear hall

The temple has a long history in Taipei but what most travel guides don't tell you is that what we see today isn't exactly the same as what you would have seen in 1738. The temple has met with disaster several times and each time it had to be rebuilt. The first such disaster was in 1815 when a strong earthquake caused massive damage. The next time was in 1867 when a terrible storm tore it apart and finally in 1945 the temple was bombed by allied forces due to intelligence that said that the Japanese were hiding weapons inside. The temple may have been in the same spot for over 260 years but what we see today is for the most part only 70 years old. We can say that Longshan Temple is the oldest temple in the district, but both Qingshan (青山宮) and Qingshui (艋舺清水祖師宮) temples are older in terms of construction and original material.

Longshan Temple is primarily a Buddhist place of worship dedicated to Guanyin, the Chinese Buddha of Compassion. In the Chinese Buddhist tradition Guanyin manifests as a female deity but in Tibetan Buddhism, the Buddha of Compassion is none other than the Dalai Lama himself. The Guanyin in Longshan temple is quite large and the shrine room is exceptionally beautiful. (Check out the 1000 arm statue of Guanyin at Guandu Temple) Despite the fact that the temple is Buddhist, it has also incorporated Taoism and folk religion as well which like almost every temple in Taiwan shows the tolerance people have here for different religious traditions.

Crowding around the incense urn

Incense urn

Incense urn

The temple is currently split into three different areas – The first of which is somewhat of a greeting area (前殿) where people light incense and candles and perform religious activities facing the main hall. This area is always full of people and tends to be a bit crowded. The main hall (大殿) is in the middle of the complex and is where you will find the statue of Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) with Manjusri (文殊師利) and Samantabhadra (普賢菩薩) on the sides with the eighteen Arhats (十八羅漢), the Buddhist version of the twelve disciples on either side of the statues.

Dragons on the roof

Dragons on the roof

Dragons on the roof

The rear hall (後殿) was completed in 1792 and is dedicated to Taoist deities which include the Goddess Matzu (天上聖母), the God of Literature (文昌大帝), Lord Guan (關公) the god of war, the Earth God (福德正神) and the City God (城隍爺) as well as several other patron deities which are important for finding love, exam success, etc.

The importance of Longshan Temple to the people of Monga as well as the whole of Taipei cannot be underscored. It is one of the three most important places of worship in the city and has been recognized as as a second grade historical site for its importance with regard to its history, culture and religion. It is a fine example of traditional Chinese architecture with Taiwanese characteristics and a popular tourist spot for people coming to Taiwan.

Getting to the temple is quite easy – Simply take the blue line of the Taipei MRT to Longshan Temple station (龍山寺捷運站) and walk through the underground mall or walk through Bangka park until you arrive. If you are coming to Taiwan, this temple should be made a priority on your list of places to visit! 

 

That will do it for my series of posts on Monga! I hope you like what you saw and learned a little bit about the district. I will undoubtedly be back many times in the future to shoot various other activities as it is always an interesting place with something cool happening. If you have any questions, comments or criticisms don't be shy. Comment below or send an email through the contact section.