Landscape

Halong Bay (下龍灣) 

Let’s be real.

You can’t really take a trip to Vietnam without having visited its number-one attraction. 

Could you actually return home to your friends and family and proudly tell them about your adventure without a story or two about its magnificent Halong Bay?  

Sure, you might argue that there are about a million things to see, do and more importantly - eat - when you’re in Vietnam, but the consensus these days is that if you haven’t spent a day or two touring Halong Bay, you’ve missed out. 

I suppose it would be a bit like visiting Paris and not checking out the Eiffel Tower. 

Why is Halong Bay considered Vietnam’s number one tourist destination? 

Well, probably because it is literally home to thousands of towering limestone pillars and islets that rise up out of the emerald-green waters creating an unmatched ethereal beauty. 

The jaw-dropping natural beauty that you’ll discover while cruising through the bay is an experience that every world traveller should want to experience.

Which is why it has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in South East Asia and also a huge tourist trap.

Hạ Long Bay

According to local legends, Vietnam’s early history was quite similar to what has taken place over the past few centuries - Under constant threat of invasion from all sides, the people had to be constantly prepared for battle.

Fortunately they were able to call for the assistance of a family of dragons to protect them. 

Appearing in the sky, instead of breathing fire and murdering everyone, the dragons began spitting out pieces of jewels and jade, which miraculously transformed into islands and islets in the bay that formed a great wall against the invaders. 

Having a couple thousand islands rise up out of the sea obviously had a detrimental effect on the invading navy, whose ships all crashed and sank.

Content with their effort (and their creation), the dragons decided to stick around and make their home in the bay. 

Thus the name, Vịnh Hạ Long (下龍灣), which translates as ‘Descending Dragon Bay.

Located in northeastern Vietnam’s mountainous Quảng Ninh Province, Halong Bay has a total area of around 1,553 km² and consists of anywhere between 1,960 - 2,000 (mostly uninhabited) and undisturbed islets, which have taken around 500 million years to form into the beautiful landscape that we are able to enjoy today.

Halong Bay is home to thousands of iconic towering limestone karst islets, impressive caves, beaches, floating villages and impressive bio and geo-diversity that has been crafted by nature over the past twenty million years. 

Thanks to the effort of those legendary dragons, the bay is also home to fourteen endemic species of flora as well as over sixty species of fauna.   

While there is evidence of prehistoric human settlements in the area, today Halong Bay is home to a community of about 1,600 people spread between four different floating fishing villages where fishing and aquaculture are their main source of income. 

If you were counting, there are actually more islands in the bay than there are inhabitants. 

Coincidentally the inhabitants of the area often have little to do with the massive tourism that takes place in the bay, but their livelihoods are affected by the pollution caused by mass-tourism, so while efforts are being made to clean the bay up, there has also been a focus on helping to improve their lives.

Located in a tropical environment, Halong Bay more or less only has two seasons: A hot and wet summer and a dry and cold winter with an average temperature ranging from 15-25 degrees.

This doesn’t necessarily mean that there is an optimal time to visit the bay as both the summer months and the winter months are equally comfortable but there are pros-and-cons with regard to the time of the year you plan on visiting, so I recommend checking out the link below so you know what to expect when you visit. 

Link: When is the Best Time to Visit Halong Bay? (Indochina Odyssey Tours)

While all of the attention that Halong Bay receives from travelers is well-deserved, in recent years questions have arisen with regard to ‘ethical tourism’ as the area has been over-run with tourists (an estimated 5,500 tourists per day), who contribute (whether consciously or not) to a considerable amount of pollution as well as damage to the natural environment. 

This has led to scathing reviews online with many travelers complaining about their negative experiences due to the pollution that has transformed the beautiful emerald green waters into a stinky brown colour with solid waste floating all over the place. 

Fortunately, this is something that local NGOs and the Vietnamese government have started to take seriously.

Currently, it is estimated that several thousand tons of trash (yes, you heard that right) is collected from the bay on a daily basis. This is in part the fault of mass-tourism, but also due to solid waste floating through the Gulf of Tonkin and eventually settling within the coves in the bay - nevertheless, it’s a tremendous amount of garbage.

This has prompted the government to start looking at long-term sustainable solutions to solve the bay’s pollution issues - Over the past five years the provincial and national governments have worked together to come up with plans to institute bans on the use of plastic in the area.

They’ve also required tour boat operators to retrofit their cruise-boats with more safety equipment as well as better waste treatment facilities. 

Likewise, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), a Non-Governmental Agency (funded by USAID) has taken the lead to help lobby the government, businesses and civil society to get the ball rolling on the hard work needed to help clean the bay.

They’ve also worked to help educate the local population and increase awareness of the issues, enact policies at the local and national level and even coordinates clean-up days. 

One clean-up in general shocked local residents when it was reported that volunteers removed more than 750 kilos of trash within an hour of starting their clean-up.

Link: Halong Bay to pilot plastic ban on tourism boats (VNExpress)

When I announced that I’d be visiting Halong Bay, one of my friends told me that I ‘probably shouldn’t expect too much’ as the bay was extremely polluted.

I’m happy to report that even though the signs of pollution and over-crowding are visible, its also obvious that an effort is being made and that the local people are taking part in the cleanup as I saw several boats on the bay with people collecting floating garbage around the many coves.

So, the question a lot of people ask themselves is whether or not you can be an ethical tourist and still visit Halong Bay?

If you’re asking me, I think if you take some time to ensure that your tour is one that adheres to the current environmental standards put in place by the government, then it shouldn’t be much of an issue.

There are questions that you should be asking before booking your tour and you’ll want to make sure that they’re not just paying lip service to attract your business. 

That being said, yes, there is still a lot of work to be done to clean up the bay and to ensure that it stays clean, but these are issues that are being addressed (albeit slowly) but it seems like Vietnam is searching for sustainable solutions to preserve the natural environment, which is good news for Halong Bay, and all the tourists who’d love to visit.

You’ll find quite a few travel blogs that will recommend you don’t visit and many of them have valid arguments as to why you shouldn’t. Personally though, I had a great time and I’d certainly recommend others to visit as well - especially since your tourist dollars will help to contribute to the cleanup of the area.  

Sung Sot Cave

With thousands of towering pillars rising out of the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay is home to a wide variety of ancient geology that dates back as far as the Cambrian Period (570,000,000 - 500,000,000 BC).

In 2000, when the UNESCO World Heritage Committee confirmed Halong Bay as one of the locations added to their list of heritage sites, they noted that Halong Bay is an “outstanding example, representing major stages of the Earths history and its original limestone karstic geomorphologic features”. 

The formation of Halong Bay took place millions of years ago in the deep sea with tectonic shifts drastically changing the topography of the area and eventually pushing many of the limestone pillars out of the sea. This, in addition to millions of years of erosion, a warm climate and other factors contributed to the beautiful landscape that we can enjoy today.  

One of the various changes to the landscape on the various islets in the bay over this long period of time was the formation of caves.

Halong Bay is home to some really spectacular caves that are often included on the tours, but the actual number of caves in the area remains a mystery as the majority of them are still underwater. 

Search for the phallic symbol

None of the caves discovered thus far though are as large or as popular as Hang Sung Sot, otherwise known as the “Cave of Surprises”, which was discovered in 1901 by the French. 

Located on Bon Ho Island, a jetty wharf has been set up on the beach and includes a set of stairs to the entrance of the cave as well as a well-lit pathway inside. 

The popularity of the cave isn’t just because of its accessibility, it is thanks to its massive size with chambers large enough to hold thousands of people and is also home to thousands of stalactites and stalagmites. 

Touring the Cave of Surprises is a breathtaking and humbling experience as the 10,000 square meter cave (30 meters in height, 500 meters long) is home to a number of geological treasures with a few in particular that your tour guide will tell you looks like a Buddha, a large tortoise and another a cannon (but actually looks like a penis).

The large chambers are naturally lit, but there are also cleverly placed lights that illuminate most of the important aspects of the cave that your tour guide will want to point out.

When you’re in the cave it is easy (for those with an imagination) to see images in the rocks of those of animals, but for myself, I was amazed at the sheer size of the main chamber and the ceiling which looked somewhat like the surface of moon, which was enough to send my imagination off to the races. 

If you’re planning a trip to Halong Bay, I highly recommend that you make sure that a trip to the ‘Cave of Surprises’ is included on your itinerary as it is an awe-inspiring experience.   

Link: Sung Sot Cave: The ‘Surprising’ Story behind Halong Bay’s Largest Cave (Halonghub)

Touring Halong Bay

 

Do you have your own sailboat?

If so, you’ll be able to enjoy Halong Bay at your leisure! 

If you’re like the rest of us though, Halong Bay, Vietnam’s number one tourist attraction is going to have to be enjoyed with the help of a boat cruise and guided tour.

With a multitude of tours to choose from though, visiting Halong Bay can often be a bit daunting for tourists as choosing the right tour can take hours of research. 

When considering a tour package, there are a number of things that you’ll want to keep in mind before making your decision.

The first, obviously is your budget - How much you are willing or able to spend on a tour of Halong Bay will affect how much you’re going to see and do as well as the quality of the cruise ship you’ll be on. 

Link: Choosing a Halong Bay Tour - Why is it so hard? (Time Travel Turtle) 

The next thing you’ll want to consider is how much time you’re willing to spend enjoying the beauty of Halong Bay.

Vietnam is a large country and there is quite a bit to see and do, so it is important to plan carefully so that you can make the most of your trip and also enjoy the Generally there are three types of tours to choose from: 3-day, 2-night, 2-day, 1-night or a quick single day sightseeing tour. 

When considering your tour, its important to remember that getting to Hai Phong Harbour from Hanoi usually takes about 3-4 hours (depending on traffic), so if you’re planning on doing the one-day sightseeing tour out of Hanoi, you’re going to have to spend almost eight hours sitting on a bus, which if you ask me is a complete waste of your day. 

If on the other hand you choose to spend a few days in the area, you can take advantage of one of the many all-inclusive packages.

Once you’ve decided how long you’re going to spend in Halong Bay and what your budget is, you’re going to have to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for.

There are various cruise ships take different routes through the bay and offer a variety of different activities both on and off the boat. 

You’ll also discover that many of the boats cater to specific crowds.

If you’re looking for a backpackers experience, there’s something for you. If you’re looking for a party on the bay, you’ll definitely find what you’re looking for. Likewise, if you’re taking grandma and grandpa and the rest of the family on a trip, there’s also something for them to enjoy. 

Some of the activities the various cruise ships offer may include: 

  1. Swimming

  2. Cave Exploration

  3. Kayaking

  4. Hiking

  5. Snorkeling

  6. Squid Fishing

  7. Tai Chi / Yoga

  8. Cooking classes

  9. Visiting floating villages

  10. Beach BBQ

While the off-boat activities involved are an important part of your decision, you’re also going to want to read reviews of the different cruise ships, look at photos and do some research into the food and accommodations that will be available on your trip.

You’ll also want to find out how old the boat is, what facilities are available on board, how many people will be included on the tour, etc. 

Link: Halong Bay: How to Choose the Best Cruise in 6 Easy Steps (Geeky Explorer)

When you arrive in Hanoi and you’re walking around the beautiful streets of the city, you’ll undoubtedly come across hundreds of signs advertising tours of Halong Bay.

Although it may seem convenient to book your tour directly to barter for a better price, I can’t caution you enough that this is usually not a very good idea. If you take this route, you’ll likely end up paying more for less and you won’t be able to do the research necessary to ensure that your trip will have the experience that you were hoping for. 

Likewise, if you’re staying in a hostel or hotel and they offer tour packages, its probably best not to pay too much attention to them as they’re probably marked up considerably in price and lacking in quality. 

I completely understand that the amount of resources online about touring Halong Bay can be overwhelming, but you’ll be doing yourself a favor if you read a few reviews and do some research before committing to spending money. 

And yes, as mentioned above, ‘eco-travel’ and ‘ethical tourism’ is important when considering your choice for a tour of Halong Bay.

If you want to enjoy the beauty of the area and want to contribute to the effort to preserving it for future generations, you’ll want to keep your eye out for companies that operate with an association or partnership with the following organizations: 

  1. Travelife Sustainability System

  2. The Responsible Travel Club of Vietnam (RTC)

  3. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)  

For your consideration the following are two of the most highly recognized tour groups that offer eco-friendly tours of Halong Bay: 

  1. Bhaya Group Cruises 

  2. Indochina Junk

For most general searches and to compare prices and rates check the following sites: 

  1. Halong Bay Tours

  2. Halong Bay Cruises

  3. Best Price Travel

  4. Booking.com

  5. Agoda

  6. Viator 

And if you’d like to splurge and check out Halong Bay from the air, you’ll want to check out Hai Vu Aviation for one of their tours.  

There are about 1,960 reasons why you should include a visit to Halong Bay on your travel itinerary if you’re visiting Vietnam.

I realize that you’ll find a wealth of conflicting information on the internet as to why you should or shouldn’t visit - and I don’t refute any of their claims. 

There are definitely numerous arguments on both sides and a long list of pros and cons. 

Still, I had a great time with very few complaints and I’m sure that most tourists feel the same. 

The environmental situation however is a major issue and is definitely something that needs to be seriously improved so that the bay can retain its breathtaking beauty and its not ruined in an unsustainable grab for tourism dollars. 

If you visit, it’s important that you do your best to practice ethical tourism and try not to exacerbate the issue. It has taken millions of years to craft Halong Bay into the breathtakingly beautiful landscape that it is today, so let’s do our best not to ruin it with a couple decades of tourism.  


Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋)

As an avid Taiwan travel writer, one of the things I try to keep up on are the popular travel-related trends around the country at any given time. For example, in recent years we’ve seen a resurgence in the popularity, especially among the younger Insta-generation for hiking, attending flower festivals, enjoying beaches, etc. 

Thanks to the power of social media when certain locations go viral, you can be sure that it will explode with day-trippers who are willing to travel from one end of the country to the other just to take a photo of themselves in a certain location or to eat at a specific restaurant. 

It’s actually quite amazing to see it in action. 

Take one of my favourite hikes as an example - Wuliaojian (五寮尖), one of northern Taiwan’s most difficult hikes, has always been loved by hikers for some great weekend exercise. I’ve been hiking the trail for years and have become familiar with quite a few of the older hikers who hike it every weekend. The trail was always relatively quiet and could easily be completed without many people getting your way. 

Some photos on social media from some popular Instagrammers ruined that for all of us.

Today there are long lines of people on the trails with the vast majority of people completely unprepared for what awaits them. But at least they look really good while doing it, right?

It may seem like I’m complaining, but one of the great things about these travel trends is that people constantly have new places to visit and are learning more and more that they’re actually able to appreciate the beauty of their own country. On the other hand, most of the locations that go viral are ever really able to handle the sudden influx of thousands of people looking to get their photos. 

Considering mountain trails have been one of the most popular trends in domestic travel, the government has sought to capitalize on that by improving the infrastructure in these areas as well as adding new attractions and destinations to visit.

One area where this has been most obvious has been with the not-so-insignificant number of suspension bridges being constructed in the mountains over the past few years. 

Honestly, it’s one of those trends that I often find myself scratching my head at, but hey, these bridges are pretty cool and they’re great for attracting people and (more importantly) keeping things viral, so why not? 

Take the recently completed “Shan-Chuan Glass Suspension Bridge” (山川琉璃吊橋) in southern Taiwan’s Pingtung County (屏東縣), which is one of the longest and highest pedestrian bridges of its kind in Taiwan. Or how about the Fengbin Skywalk (豐濱天空步道) at Hualien’s Qingshui Cliffs or the Skywalk (天空步道) at Taoyuan’s Xiaowulai Waterfall - all of which have glass floors and were constructed at great cost - but are extremely popular with tourists. 

Link: “Top Ten Most Beautiful Suspension Bridges” 十大絕美吊橋 (健行筆記)

The not-so-open Xikou Suspension Bridge…

Even though I’m not personally too crazy about all these bridges being constructed in the mountains, with all the COVID-19 stuff going on and not much to do, I decided to take a ride into the mountains of Taoyuan earlier this year to check out the newly constructed and highly-acclaimed Xikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋). 

I figured that if I visited on an early weekday morning that I could avoid most of the insta-crowd and be able to get some nice photos to do a quick write-up about the 303 meter-long bridge that connects Jiaobanshan (角板山) on one side of the Dahan River (大漢溪) to the Xikou Tribe (溪口部落) on the other. 

Unfortunately when I arrived at the bridge there was a notice posted nearby that stated that it was closed from February 3rd, 2020 to June 30th, 2020. 

Unimpressed, I approached the bridge and took a few photos anyway and then decided to make my way back down towards Daxi (大溪) where I’d have to come up with some other plans for the day. 

Fortunately as I made my way back to the Northern Cross-island highway (北橫公路), I remembered that there was another, historic suspension bridge in the area and decided to stop by to get some photos of it. 

So, instead of introducing the Xikou Suspension Bridge, I’ll be introducing what I think is actually a prettier (albeit less popular) bridge, the Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋) which connects Luofu Village (羅浮村) to the network of hiking trails at Xiaowulai across the river. 

Yixing Suspension Bridge 

Two of the most popular locally made films in recent years were the Seediq Bale (賽德克巴萊) films that told the story of the Wushe Incident (霧社事件) and the valiant struggle of one of Taiwan’s indigenous groups against the Japanese Colonialists. 

The second of the two-part film series was titled “The Rainbow Bridge” (彩虹橋) which alludes to the Seediq (賽德克) peoples legend that when they pass away they cross a “rainbow bridge” into the afterworld.

Since those movies came out, it seems like almost every bridge in the mountains, especially those in areas where indigenous tribes are located have been randomly nicknamed the “Rainbow Bridge” or the “Seediq Bale Bridge” and this one is no different. 

In the government’s own tourist info about Yixing Bridge, they continue this trend by talking about the film and the Rainbow Bridge in their introduction. 

Link: 義興吊橋 (Taoyuan Travel)

Is that necessary? I don’t know. It does give people a point of reference though. 

As I mentioned above, there have been quite a few suspension bridges constructed in the mountains around Taiwan in recent years (possibly thanks to the films), but this bridge isn’t one of them. 

Luofu Village’s Yixing Bridge was constructed in 1966 (民國55年) for the purpose of transporting water to the small community living on the mountain across the Dahan River. Originally only able to accommodate about ten people at once, the bridge was renovated and strengthened in 2013 (民國103年) and is now able to accommodate at least a hundred people at once. 

The bridge is about two hundred meters long and about seventy meters above the (sometimes) raging Dahan River (大漢溪), the source of water that ends up in the Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) which provides much of the water for Northern Taiwan. The water below is emerald green and if you take some time to look down you should be able to see some local birds along the riverbank as well as fish swimming about. 

Taking into consideration that this is a suspension bridge, when you walk on it, it will rock back and forth. If you’re afraid of heights, you’ll find to hold on to the rails on the sides to make sure that you feel comfortable. 

From the highway, the bridge is a short walk down a set of stairs that should take you less than five minutes. Once you cross the bridge, you have the option of continuing along some of the hiking trails on the other side or heading back the way you came to move on to your next destination.

If you visit in April and May, you’ll also be treated to a display of Tung Blossoms (油桐花) on both sides of the river, which is an added bonus. 

Getting There

 

Address: 桃園市復興區羅浮(羅馬公路桃118線起點)

The Yixing Suspension Bridge is located within Luofu Village (羅浮村) in Taoyuan’s Fuxing Township (復興鄉). Situated along the picturesque Northern Cross-Island highway (北橫公路), otherwise known as the #7 highway, the suspension bridge is close to the Xiaowulai Scenic Area and a short distance from the beautiful Luofu Bridge (羅浮橋). 

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to the bridge isn’t all that difficult as it is located along the highway with parking spots nearby. All you’ll have to do is input the address provided above into your GPS and you’ll easily find your way. 

If you’re relying on public transportation however, the situation becomes a little more difficult as the area is remote and bus service isn’t that frequent. Still, its not impossible, so if you want to take a bus to the area, you have the following options: 

From Taoyuan Bus Station: 

From Zhongli Bus Station: 

From Daxi Bus Station: 

A word of warning though, even though there are several bus routes that go up and down the mountain between Taoyuan, Zhongli and Daxi and Upper Baling, they aren’t all that frequent, so you’ll want to play close attention to the time of your bus and make sure that you don’t get stranded if you are taking the public transportation option. 

If you’re looking for a suspension bridge to check out, but you’re a bit of a misanthrope like me, you’ll probably love this one. There’s no admission fee and even on weekends its not likely that you’ll come across very many people checking it out, especially since it is less than a ten minute drive from the much larger and (supposedly) more beautiful Xikou Suspension Bridge. 

If your plan is to check out Xiaowulai, you could easily make a day trip out of the area by checking out the various waterfalls and hiking the trails that will eventually bring you to this bridge. If you’re not really into hiking though and just want to check out the suspension bridge, don’t worry - there is so much to do in this area of Taoyuan that you’ll easily be able to fill your day. 

Further up the highway of course is the beautiful Lala Mountain Nature Reserve (拉拉山), Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (東眼山), the historic Jiaobanshan villa (角板山), Tiemu Waterfall (鐵木瀑布), Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞), TUBA Church (基國派老教堂), Daxi Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Cihu Mausoleum and lots more. 

Link: Taoyuan Blogs (桃園)

If anyone has ever told you that there isn’t anything to do in Taoyuan, I’m sorry to say that they’re full of shit - Taoyuan is awesome!  


Bitou Cape (鼻頭角)

If someone who planned on visiting Taiwan asked me for some travel advice, I’m not sure that my suggestions would be very much different than what most other people would say: “Hike a mountain”, “Visit a temple” and “Have dinner at a nightmarket”. Most of the time though, I actually just want to say “Travel South”, “Travel East”, and most importantly: “Get out of Taipei!”

For some people though, leaving the city was never actually an option or a consideration. 

So what’s the next best thing? If you’re asking me, I think it would be renting a car or scooter and taking a day trip to the North Coast.

Not only is the North Coast one of the prettiest areas of Taiwan, it is also jam-packed full of places for tourists to visit. It is also home to several beaches and fishery harbours where you can stop for a swim and have the most amazing seafood dinners known to man.

The experience of riding a scooter along the beautiful coast with the Pacific Ocean on one side and tall green mountains on the other is one of those things that you’ll always remember when you think back to your time in Taiwan.

You’ll also want to stop every few minutes to take photos! 

With so many things to see and do, its understandable that most tourists have a bit of difficultly deciding where to spend their precious time - There are of course some places that are considered must-stops - The Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園), Golden Waterfall (黃金瀑布), Nanya Peculiar Rocks (南雅奇石), Shen’Ao Elephant Trunk Rock (深澳象鼻岩) and the beautiful nature hike at Bitou Cape (鼻頭角), are a few such examples.

The thing is though, unless you have your heart set on a photo with the ‘Queens Head’ (女王頭), I’m going to suggest that you save some time and just skip the overly crowded Yehliu Geopark.

Yes, I realize that sounds like tourist blasphemy, but the North Coast is full of similar-looking landscapes and cool-looking rocks, so you might be better off taking the road less travelled and enjoying some of the less crowded locations.

If you do you should easily be able to hit all of the other must-stop destinations in a single day-trip (if you start early)

While I can’t predict your itinerary, if I were your guide for the day, I’d probably start with a visit to the Elephant Trunk Rock, followed by the Golden Waterfall, Yin and Yang Sea (陰陽海), Nanya Rocks and then Bitou Cape before heading back in the direction of Taipei.

I’d probably end the day with dinner at one of the fishery harbours, the Keelung Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) or heading up the mountain to Jiufen (九分) to enjoy the sunset. 

For those who do take a day trip to explore the coast, the ‘unofficial’ last stop is almost always going to be the Bitou Cape nature trail - The beautiful hike, which for so long was a secret the locals kept to themselves, has become a hot spot for international tourists thanks to the amazing views it provides of the coastal landscape. 

Bitou Cape (鼻頭角)

“Bitou Cape”, known locally as “Bitoujiao” (鼻頭角) is one of the three major capes on Taiwan’s northern coast with the other two being Sandiao Cape (三貂角) to the east and Fugui Cape (富貴角) to the west, all of which are popular tourist destinations. 

Bitou Cape, which is separated from the North Coast Highway (北部濱海公路) by a narrow fishery harbour is home to a small village of local fishers and a number of seafood restaurants, scuba diving tour groups, a park and the popular hiking trail. 

The narrow village, which cuts into the mountain, almost always appears like it is in a perpetual traffic jam as tourists seem to think that they can just drive in to find a parking spot (Pro Tip: You can’t) and with two lanes of traffic trying to traverse the narrow one lane road, its usually a mess.

If you walk in however, you can easily enjoy the quaint little village where the owners of the restaurants will heckle for your business and the park at the far end offers some nice views of the coast.

Most people however visit for the popular ‘Bitoujiao Hiking Trail’ which takes you up and around the mountain where you’ll enjoy amazing views of the coast.  

Bitoujiao Trail (鼻頭角步道)

These days, the vast majority of the people visiting Bitou Cape are coming solely for the short (yet rewarding) hike on the Bitoujiao Trail and not the small village below. While I’m sure the restaurants and business owners in the village benefit from the influx of tourists to the area, most people are really only coming to get photos of the beautiful northern coast from the small mountain above the village. 

Like a lot of areas around Taiwan these days, the popularity of the Bitoujiao trail has skyrocketed thanks to the ‘Instagram-effect’ with the majority of people visiting not for the hike itself, but the beautiful photos that you’re rewarded with if you take the time to visit.

Unlike some of the other ‘insta-famous’ landscape areas that have become popular in recent years, this one is probably one of the easiest to hike and shouldn’t actually pose much difficulty as the trail is well-developed and doesn’t require any hiking experience.

So, if you plan on bringing grandma and grandpa, don’t worry too much. They’ll be fine. 

The total length of the trail is 3.5 kilometres from start to finish, but that number includes a part of the trail that leads to the Bitou Lighthouse (鼻頭角燈塔). That part of the trail is currently under reconstruction and isn’t open to the public. So, I’d estimate that the trail is actually no longer than two kilometres in length. 

Likewise, the official estimate of the amount of time that you’ll need to complete the hike is around ninety minutes. Without a trip to the lighthouse though, your trip is going to be considerably shorter, so you’ll probably be able to complete the circuit in about an hour, but that depends on how much time spend taking photos.

So when will the path to the lighthouse re-open? That’s hard to say as there is no official estimate as to when the trail will be fixed. You may think to yourself that you could just do what the fishermen do and walk down to the coast and make your own trail to the lighthouse, but I’d caution you against it. A few months ago a couple of tourists had the same idea and one of them ended up dying while the other was critically injured. 

Link: 鼻頭角祕境浪捲1死1傷/祕境非步道 風管處不管?

If you are planning to do this hike, it is important to note that the trail is simply just a well-developed route that takes you around the mountain and although it may seem like a ‘circuit’, its a bit more like a horseshoe.  

There are two trailheads for the hike - one starts from within the small village while the other starts a short distance away at the local elementary school. With two trailhead options for starting your hike, you might be wondering which one is the best to start your hike.

There are arguments both for and against starting the hike at either one of the trailheads but as far as I’m concerned, there is really only one option. 

The best option for starting this hike is from the Bitou Elementary School side. 

Let me tell you why.  

The first reason is because if you’ve driven there, parking your scooter or car in the small parking lot along the highway (or along the road to the school) is relatively easy. Likewise if you take the bus, the bus stop is next to the road that takes you up the hill to the elementary school.

The most important reason though is that if you start your hike from this trailhead that you’ll be walking in the direction of all the beautiful scenery, which you’d probably miss if you started from other side, unless of course you’re weird and you make a habit of walking backwards. There are also considerably less stairs to walk up if you start from this side.

How you hike the trail of course is up to you, but if you start your hike from the Elementary School, you’ll be able to easily park your vehicle, enjoy the scenic beauty and finally enjoy a bit of the village where you can buy some after-hike snacks from some of the vendors before heading back to your vehicle or the bus stop. 

Getting There

 

When you look at the map, it might seem like getting to Bitou Cape could be difficult, but don’t let its location fool you, you can easily get there if you have your own means of transportation or through the use of public transportation.

If you’re driving a car or a scooter, all you’ll have to do is input “Bitou Cape” (鼻頭角) into your GPS and let it do all the work for you. If you’re traveling in a car from Taipei, you’ll want to get on the highway and head north until you reach the Dahua Interchange (大華交流道) where you’ll switch to the #62 Expressway (62快速公路). From there you’ll drive until you reach the north coast where you’ll switch to the North Coast Highway (濱海公路) which you’ll follow until you reach Bitou Cape.

If you’re driving a scooter you’re going to have to take a much less direct route to either Keelung (基隆) or Ruifang (瑞芳) where you’ll be able to reach the coastal highway.

I highly recommend that if you’re taking this option that you use the scooter directions option in Google Maps to map out the best route as there are way too many options to list here.  

If you’re taking public transportation you have a couple of options: The first is to take the train to either Keelung Train Station (基隆車站) or Fulong Train Station (福隆車站) and then transferring to Bus #791.

If you take the train to Keelung, you’ll have to sit through a long bus ride along the bus North Coast highway where the traffic can be quite heavy. If on the other hand you take the train to Fulong and transfer to the bus from there, the bus ride is much shorter.

Bus #791 runs from 6:00am - 9:30pm every day and shows up in intervals of 30-40 minutes during peak times and every 50-60 minutes during off hours. 

No matter where you get on the bus, you’ll want to make sure to get off at the “Bitou Cape” (鼻頭角) stop which has a nicely constructed and covered bus stop. It should also go without saying that if you get on the bus at Keelung Train Station that you should hop on the bus heading towards Fulong and vice versa. 

Link: Keelung Bus (基隆客運) #791 

If you’d like to take a bus directly from Taipei, simply make your way to Taipei West Station (台北西站) and purchase a ticket for Kuo Kuang Bus (國光客運) #1811 or ##1812 where you’ll get off at the Bitou Cape stop. I would caution you though, these buses don’t run as frequently and even though they might be ‘faster’, you’re going to pay a bit more.

You could also likewise hop on a bus from Ruifang Train Station (瑞芳車站), which is where you’d want to go if you planned on visiting Pingxi (平溪) or Jiufen (九分). From the bus terminal across the street from the train station you’ll want to hop on Keelung Bus #886 or #856, both of which go to Fulong. 

The reason why I’m not expanding on the Taipei or Ruifang options is that they are either inconvenient, expensive, slow or will require a lot more waiting around than the first option.

Ultimately its up to you, I’ve provided several options, so choose the one that best fits your itinerary! 

Bitou Cape was once considered somewhat of a guarded secret among locals, but the cat is certainly out of the bag as it has become a popular destination over the past few years. Thanks to the effort of photographers and Instagram celebrities, the area has also become a highly-regarded stop for both local and foreign tourists. Considering that it is one of the north coasts most scenic locations, it is definitely one of the places you’re going to want to stop if you’re visiting the area. 

Unfortunately at the moment, a large portion of the Bitou Cape Trail is currently under reconstruction and closed to the public. I plan on revisiting when the trail to the lighthouse reopens to get photos of that part of the trail as well as (I hope) better photos.

Until then though, I’m leaving this post here for your reference! 

If you plan on visiting Taiwan, a visit to the scenic north coast is one of my most highly recommended day trips, so I hope that you’ll take the time to enjoy some of Taiwan’s most stunning landscapes during your visit to the country!