Hakka Cuisine

Hakka Dried Persimmons (柿餅)

This October marked the five year anniversary of this modest little space on the web.

Things have changed quite a bit around here since I first opened this site and I’ve ended up learning quite a bit in the process, but what has always stayed the same is my dedication to introducing Taiwan to people who want to learn about and travel to this beautiful country.

From the outset, it wasn’t actually my plan to make this blog such an important part of what I do here, but things kind of took a life of their own and here I am five years later writing about a bunch of places and things that most people think are weird.

Coincidentally at a recent event I was working at, a journalist approached me and after introducing myself she said: “Oh, you’re that guy that posts all those weird and wonderful blogs!”

To which I could only just smile and nod.

The point of the site was always to provide a space for my photography - Writing was never my area of expertise (and its never going to be), but I do make an effort not to completely make a fool out of myself.

So, now that its been half a decade since I posted my first blog, I’d like to thank all of you who have frequently visited and I hope you’ve benefitted from my experience.

I also hope you’ve enjoyed my photos at the same time.

Looking back, the very first blog I posted on here was about the traditional Hakka practice of drying persimmons in the sun in the mountains of Hsinchu County. I’ve been visiting this quaint little persimmon farm in Hsinpu, the cultural heartland for the Hakka people of Taiwan, for well over a decade and is a yearly tradition that never grows old.

The traditional drying practice, which relies on placing fruit and vegetables around two meters above the ground on a network of bamboo poles was once a yearly activity for a lot of local families, but as is the case with a lot of cultural traditions, has been slowly dying off.

Thankfully the good people at the Wei Wei Jia Persimmon Tourist Farm (新埔的味衛佳柿餅觀光農場) have not only successfully preserved the traditional drying process, they’ve also ensured that it is picturesque which attracts people from all over Taiwan who visit each year to take photos, learn a bit about Hakka culture and of course purchase some dried persimmons.

To learn more about the Persimmon Farm, click the link below.

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (新埔柿餅)

Even though I’ve visited well over a dozen times, I always make sure to bring my camera along with me each and every time I visit this beautiful farm - This ensures that I’m always going to have something new to share and will be able to keep people updated about what’s happening.

The drying process is one of those cultural traditions that makes for really pretty photos and the colour of the sun shining on the persimmons is something that should make your camera quite happy.

I will admit though that I’m not really a big fan of eating dried persimmons.

As one does though, I always make sure to buy a few boxes each time I visit to share with friends and co-workers.

This year, instead of regurgitating a bunch of information I’ve already provided, I’m just going to post a collection of photos from my most recent visit for you to enjoy.

I also recommend checking out my off-site Dried Persimmon Flickr Gallery which has the entire collection of photos that I have posted from the many years I’ve visited!

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (Flickr)

If you haven’t visited Hsinpu yet, I’d highly recommend checking it out.

The small village is jam-packed with Hakka history, amazing Hakka cuisine and these persimmons!  

Hsinpu Links: Baozhong Yimin Temple | Hsinpu Hakka Ancestral Shrines | Wu Zhuo Liu Memorial Home

Tung Blossoms 2019 (客家桐花祭)

As a long term resident of Taoyuan, I’ve been lucky over the years to have been immersed in pretty much everything that is Hakka culture. Almost everywhere you go around here, you’re able to find amazing cuisine, festivals and museums set up to share and preserve the culture and language of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

Of all the Hakka related festivals that take place every year, the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival has grown to be one of my personal favourites. Taking place every April and May, the festival showcases the beautiful Tung Blossom, a Sakura-like blossom which has become synonymous with the Hakka people.

As each year passes, festival organizers do an amazing job of coming up with new and exciting events and activities that attracts people of all walks of life to the mountains throughout the Taoyuan-Hsinchu-Miaoli area and beyond.

I’ve never really needed any these snazzy events to attract my attention - The beautiful Tung Blossoms that turn Taoyuan’s lush green mountainous landscape white in the months leading up to summer have always been more than enough for me and during the two-month period when the blossoms are in bloom, the beauty of the Taoyuan area in particular begins to shine - and I head to the mountains in my free time to take photos and enjoy nature.

Many of the events that are planned it seems are geared toward attracting the older crowd who are more interested in a day-trip where they can combine the blossoms, some entertainment and most importantly some great food. The younger crowds on the other hand have proven to be much easier to attract as they’re all about the Instagram, and what could be more Instagrammable than these beautiful white blossoms?

As it has become somewhat of a yearly tradition of mine to head to the mountains to check out the Tung Blossoms, there are a few locations that have become my go-to destinations for taking photos. One of the problems when taking photos of these blossoms is that unlike the relatively short cherry blossom trees, Tung trees are tall and that makes it difficult to get close to where they’re blooming.

Not everyone has a telephoto lens, so this is why people have come up with clever ways and cute to take photos of the blossoms. If you pay attention to Instagram, you may have noticed people collecting the blossoms that have fallen to the ground and to heart-shaped designs, Tung blossom crowns, or taking cleverly posed photos of the mountain paths where the blossoms have fallen on the ground creating what looks like a layer of snow.

Personally, I prefer taking photos of the blossoms while they’re still on the tree, so the places I visit are often areas that allow me to get close enough to take photos. This year, I decided to visit a location that I’ve never visited before, but has become a photo hotspot, due to the relative youth of the trees and the ability to get close enough to the blossoms to take photos.

On the day I visited, the place was packed with people of all ages taking photos, having picnics and enjoying a Hakka concert and dance performance. I typically stay away from places like this, especially those that have become really popular with Instagram types but on this day, I didn’t really mind. I had a great time taking photos and people-watching.

I was also able to have a good laugh on several occasions as the beautiful young woman featured in some of the photos scolded her boyfriend for taking sub-par photos. One of her comments stuck with me: “The picture you took of me makes me look like a dinosaur!” (你把我拍的跟恐龍一樣).

I can’t imagine how stressful it is being the boyfriend of an aspiring Instagram beauty.

If you’re reading this and are interested in heading to the mountains to take some photos of the Tung Blossoms, I recommend going soon, before you do though, make sure to consult the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival website linked below. The website provides accurate advice on where are the best locations to view the blossoms and their current state.

Tung Blossoms: 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018

Tung Blossoms (油桐花)

Every year between the months of April and May, forests in many areas of Taiwan turn white thanks to the Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that grow throughout the mountains and hillsides of the country. Often referred to as as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom), the arrival of Tung Blossom triggers a considerable amount of domestic tourism with people of all ages making an effort to travel to areas where the trees grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that grows to a height of about 20 meters. It is endemic to South China and Burma but was brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the Japanese Colonial Era (1895-1945), and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan for its economic uses.

The cultivation of the tree was became most important to the ethnic Hakka people of Taiwan who lived in the areas where the trees were cultivated. The tree brought with it economic benefits as its seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the timber was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks.

When the economic benefits of the Tung tree eventually subsided, it took on a new role transforming into a symbol of the Hakka people and the long lasting relationship that they have shared.

While not as popular as Cherry Blossoms, Tung blossoms are loved for their ability to turn hiking trails 'white' with a snowfall effect as the blossoms fall to the ground.

The popularity of Tung Blossoms has skyrocketed in recent years with young people, especially young couples who head to the mountains to have impromptu photoshoots with the blossoms. You’ll often see couples on hiking trails collecting blossoms that have fallen on the ground to arrange into a heart or young men putting the blossoms on a string to make a ‘Tung blossom crown’ for their girlfriends - endless amounts of cuteness, I assure you.

Hakka Tung Blossom Festival (客家桐花祭)

In 2002 the Council for Hakka Affairs started the annual "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event which takes places during the two month blooming season as a way to promote and help to preserve Taiwan’s Hakka culture.

The well-organized event attracts large crowds of tourists to Hakka areas of the country, most notably in Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli to not only see the blossoms but also to learn about and experience Hakka culture and cuisine. Organizers plan events according to the blooming season offering visitors entertainment and a festive atmosphere at the popular blossom viewing destinations.

I don’t heap praise too often on websites produced by the Taiwanese government, but the website for this festival is arguably one of the most beautiful and interactive spaces on the web. The site offers real-time information on the condition of the Tung Blossoms and the best places to view them by region. Likewise, the website is available in Chinese (Traditional and Simplified) as well as Japanese, Korean and English giving international tourists the opportunity to view the blossoms and experience the culture of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

If you are thinking about checking out these beautiful blossoms, click one of the links below!

 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival Website: English | 中文 | 日語 | 조선말 


Neiwan Old Street (內灣老街)

Since I've started this blog, I've covered quite a few of Taiwan's old streets with plans to visit more as they are often a wonderful look back into Taiwan's storied history. The old street I'm introducing today is probably my favourite of all the old streets and despite some recent changes which I think takes away from the authenticity of the old street, I still go back several times where the vendors and shop owners recognize me and in some cases even know me by name!

Neiwan Old Street (內灣老街) is in south-eastern Hsinchu county’s Hengshan township (橫山) and next to Jianshi (尖石鄉) the beautiful Atayal area known for its mountains and rivers. The village is quite remote and is part of the reason I like it so much. It is nestled in the mountains next to a beautiful river and is quiet for at least five days of the week. On weekends the old street comes alive and is jam packed with tourists sampling many of the treats the street is famous for as well as the Hakka culture that is so prevalent in the area.

The origins of the town are quite similar to what we have seen with my previous posts in Daxi and Sanxia where historically the town was set up as a way-point in the logging and mining industry. This brought a lot of prosperity and opportunity to the people of the bustling little village which quickly became a self-sustaining town with banks, post offices and movie theatres. When the mine closed in the 1960s the town slowly transformed into a backwater and it fell out of public consciousness almost until the turn of the century when the it started to be marketed as a popular tourist destination becoming one of Taiwan's “old streets” (老街) and a strategy was devised to keep tourists coming to visit.

While most of Taiwan’s old streets are known for the architecture of the houses lining the streets being constructed with “baroque” designs, the Neiwan old street isn't like that at all - The town became prosperous much later than the others and that style had already faded by that time and wasn't very practical in such a remote area. The architectural style of the houses along the street is pretty much the same as what you'd see in many of the older neighbourhoods around Taiwan.

So without the "old street" feeling, how has Neiwan become so attractive to tourists? I believe that it is in part because of the Hakka culture and cuisine, the quaintness of the town and also because of the special railway line that brings tourists into the small village making it quite special and differentiating itself from other old streets. 

The railroad that brings people into Neiwan is a special branch of the Taiwan Railway. It isn't on the main mountain (山線) or ocean line (海線), so if you plan on going to old street via the train you will first have to get to Zhudong Train Station (竹東車站) and then transfer to the special Neiwan Liujia line (內灣六家線). The line was completed in 1951 and departs every 90 minutes from the city. The train (slowly) brings you through the mountains and part of the experience of going to Neiwan is taking the train and enjoying the scenery on the trip.

The problem with the train is that it takes a long time and it doesn't come very frequently. If you travel to Neiwan by train on a busy day, you need to make sure to line up quite early to take a train back to Hsinchu, otherwise you may get stuck and it is very likely that you'll have to stand for the entire 90 minute ride. If you do take the train, make sure to check for information about the bus just in case you get stuck in a long line and can't make it back by train!

Travel information: Bus (Left) / Train Schedule (Right) - Chinese Only 

The old street has a number of popular Hakka restaurants and there are also a number of vendors lining up on each side selling local specialties like Hakka sticky rice (客家麻糬), Hakka desserts, tea, and pretty much anything you might expect from a typical night market. The street is quite well known for one of its Indigenous sausage vendors as well as vendors selling a special type of glutinous rice (野薑花粽子) wrapped in ginger leaves (as opposed to lotus leaves), and of course my favourite, Hakka Lei tea (客家擂茶) which is one of the main reasons I've been back so many times.

The inside of Neiwan Theatre (內灣戲院)

One of my favourite places to eat is the old Neiwan Cinema (內灣戲院) which is an old style theatre that has since been converted into a popular Hakka restaurant. The restaurant still plays movies and they even have a store where you can buy DVDs of the old Taiwanese movies that they play. I watched a movie in the theatre a few years back while having dinner titled: “The Green, Green Grass of Home” (在那河畔青草青) which was one of director Hou Hsiao-Hsien's (侯孝賢) earliest films about a teacher from Taipei who was assigned to substitute teach at the elementary school in Neiwan and falls in love with the resident teacher there. The movie was filmed on location and it was amazing to see how the village looked decades ago compared to how it looks now as well as well as the dedication to promoting environmental preservation that would become part of Hou's career as a director.

When I said earlier that people know who I am in Neiwan, I wasn't joking. I’ve been going to the same Hakka Lei Tea vendor (阿珠擂茶) for years and every time I come back the owner gets really excited and somewhat embarrassingly yells about how long it's been since I've been back. The tea in this place is awesome and you can choose to either make the Lei Cha by yourself (which actually takes a lot of time and hard work grinding the stuff up) or you can have it made by the boss. She sells hot and cold versions as well as a iced smoothie type. If you've never tried this tea, I highly recommend you sit down for a pot and enjoy some of her awesome Hakka sticky rice (客家麻糬) with it.

Now that I've said a bunch of nice things about the old street, it's time to do a little bit of complaining - The old street (like a lot of places in Taiwan) has changed a bit in the past few years. It remains a big attraction for Taiwanese visitors but it has become a destination for bus-loads of of Chinese tourists. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but I feel like the authenticity of the old street has been lost and what was once an “old street” has branched off into several streets selling kitschy things to tourists.

I'm not particularly a big fan of the new changes which even include go-kart tracks and noisy carnival-like attractions. I tend to avoid those areas and stick to the more traditional areas of the village. If you haven't been to Neiwan before, I recommend just staying in the original street which starts at a 7-11 and goes past the train station, downhill past the theatre. It's a long straight street and you don't need to really wander off to the side streets which are the new ones full of flag-following tour groups.

That being said the new streets that have been incorporated into the old street have brought me to explore other parts of the residential area of the village and I have found quite a few things that even after visiting for the first fifty times. There's a large temple behind the old street and near there is a bridge with a small stream that the train passes over - in the stream is a traditional Hakka set up for doing laundry and on off-days you can still see the residents of the town doing their laundry in the street. The street is also a popular attraction for viewing fire flies and in April and May people come from all over the country to see the fire flies that are native to the area behind the village. 

If you get a bit tired of wading through crowds on the weekend, I recommend taking a walk across the old Neiwan suspension bridge that connects the village with the other side of the river. You can also go down to the river banks where you will see locals playing in the river and having barbecues. If you traveled by car or scooter I also recommend driving a bit further up the mountains past Neiwan into Jianshi (尖石) where the river is a bit more beautiful and eventually becomes an Indigenous area where you can find some great food, hot springs and really friendly people.

I've been going to Neiwan at least four or five times a year for well over ten years. I'm a big fan of this old street and everything it has to offer. It is in the middle of the mountains, there's a beautiful river, great traditional foods and even some of the more modern snacks that you'll find in many of Taiwan's modern night markets. It's great for a day trip especially if you want to get out of the city for some fresh air and good food.

If you have any comments or questions don't be shy – comment below!