Cherry Blossom

Cherry Blossoms in Fukuoka (福岡櫻花)

It may seem like there will never be an official ‘end’ to the COVID-19 pandemic, but finally after some difficult years, we’ve gotten to a point where we’ve been vaccinated enough that we’re able to live with the virus. With restrictions across the world easing, even in countries that imposed the strictest mandates, tourism has started to make a comeback, and people are eager to hop on a plane and enjoying life!

I’m sure, like so many around the world, the inability to travel for the duration of the pandemic was quite frustrating - and like myself, many of you probably came up with grand plans of traveling to distant lands when it all came to an end. Personally, I figured that my first overseas trip in a post-pandemic world would see me flying back home in Canada to visit family, or back to Europe for some more backpacking.

I had a bit of a rude awakening in that department, though, as flights back home, were priced at double, or even triple their pre-pandemic prices. So, instead of an ambitious trip to a far distant land, we decided to stay close to home, and celebrate my birthday with a quick trip to the southern Japanese island of Kyushu.

The plan was to fly into Fukuoka (福岡縣), stay there for a few days, rent a car to drive to the north of the island, then head south to a popular hot spring resort for my birthday before returning to the city. If you follow my Instagram, you’re likely aware that one of my favorite things to eat is Japanese ramen, and Fukuoka is pretty much the birthplace of Tonkotsu (豚骨) ramen, so I was quite content with the decision to spend some time there.

One of the highlights of the trip, however, was to be the cherry blossoms, which were forecast to start blooming the day after our arrival. After years of taking photos of cherry blossoms all over Taiwan, I was excited that I was finally going to be able to see them in all their glory in Japan, taking part in an annual ritual of blossom viewing known as ‘hanami’ (花見 / はなみ), which remains one of the special cultural links that the people of Taiwan share with the Japanese.

Link: Taiwan Cherry Blossom Guide (臺灣櫻花地圖)

On our first day in Fukuoka, the weather was quite nice, but the forecast for the rest of the week, unfortunately, wasn’t looking very promising, so after having a bowl of ramen, and checking out a couple of small shrines near our hotel, we decided to try our luck and head over to the city’s Maizuru Park (舞鶴公園), to see if any of the trees were blooming.

Sadly, we were several days early, and all we saw were the buds on the trees.

We probably should have known better though.

The Japanese are experts when it comes to their ‘hanami’ forecast, and they have a scientifically exact blooming schedule for every city in the country, which is something that doesn’t seem like it ever fails.

Link: Fukuoka Cherry Blossom / Sakura Guide 2023 (Fukuoka Now)

What I ended up discovering over the next few days of the trip was that no matter where you go, there are cherry blossoms blooming pretty much everywhere. It didn’t matter if we were just walking around the city, visiting shrines in the mountains, or simply just driving along the highway.

They were everywhere..

For the first few days, I got pretty excited seeing them, and wanted to stop and take photos, but to tell the truth, the novelty wore off pretty quickly, and after a few days, I started feeling like they were like the Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that turn the mountains of Taiwan white in April and May.

It’s a bit of a running joke, even though they’re quite beautiful, but people in Taiwan refer to tung blossoms as ‘mold’ on the mountains, because they make Taiwan’s beautiful mountains look as if parts of them are rotting. As we traversed the highway on our way from Fukuoka to the northern part of the island, I couldn’t help to notice the similarities as there were cherry trees all over the mountains.

Link: The Different Varieties of Cherry Blossoms in Japan From Light Pink to Radiant Yellow (Japan Travel)

That being said, after a week of seeing cherry blossoms all over northern Kyushu, I have to admit I wasn’t actually prepared for what I was going to experience on our return to Fukuoka.

We arrived in town in the early afternoon, dropped our bags off at our hotel, dropped off our rental car, and then started to make our way to the park where Fukuoka holds its annual cherry blossom festival.

As we approached the park, the amount of people on the streets started growing dramatically. It was the busiest I had seen the city during our trip, and there were so many smiling, happy people that we knew that we were about to see something special. As we got closer, and the blossoms started to come into sight, I was awestruck.

All of the trees that were bare just a few days earlier had completed transformed, and we were in hanami-heaven!

Maizuru Park is home to about a thousand trees, including nineteen different species of cherry, with the Somei-Yoshino (染井吉野櫻 / ソメイヨシノ) and the ‘Weeping-Cherry' Shidarezakura (枝垂櫻 / シダレザクラ) being the most common varieties. To celebrate the blossoming season, the city hosts the ‘Fukuoka Castle Sakura Festival’ and invites vendors to set up stalls within the park, offering some really great food and drinks to all the people coming to view the blossoms. They also install lights throughout the park, which light up the historic castle walls, and more importantly so that the cherry blossoms can be enjoyed both during the day and the night.

Company picnic in the park with copious amounts of sake!

Not only did I get to enjoy my first Japanese hanami experience, I took more photos than I can count, and then as the sun went down we visited the food area and enjoyed some takoyaki (章魚燒) octopus balls, (which I have to admit were so much better than anything we get here in Taiwan), some of Fukuoka’s famed yakitori (焼き鳥), chicken skewers, and some locally made craft beer, before heading back out to take more photos of the trees after they were lit up.

It ended up being a great conclusion to my birthday celebrations in Japan, and over the next few weeks (or months), you’re likely to see more articles about the places I visited during the trip, but until then, enjoy some of the photos I took of the cherry blossoms.

Cherry Blossoms at Lala Mountain (拉拉山櫻花)

It goes without saying that “Hanami” (花見), or ‘flower viewing’ is a popular tradition with the people of Taiwan. One of the cultural leftovers from the Japanese Colonial Era, the Taiwanese people’s appreciation for the natural environment is something that is quite inspiring.

These days wherever you go in Taiwan, you’ll be sure to find advertisements notifying locals and tourists alike about all of the various flower festivals that are taking place around the country at any given time. The funny thing is that you’re probably thinking that these festivals would be a major attraction only for senior citizens, but in recent years it has transcended the generation gap you’ll be sure to see people of all ages enjoying the natural beauty that this country has to offer.

If you don’t believe me, I dare you to search #Taiwan on Instagram.

Personally, I was never really all that interested in flowers when I lived in Canada - We really only have two seasons for anything to grow, and it wasn’t likely that I’d be using my precious time during the summer to go check out some flowers.

That being said, Canadians (admittedly) aren’t nearly as skilled when it comes to the cultivation, handling or arrangement of flowers as the people of Taiwan are.

While I’m admitting things, I’ll also admit that since my arrival in Taiwan, I’ve become a bit of a convert - The local flower-viewing tradition is something that has certainly grown on me over the years and I often get mixed in with he masses of people traveling around the country to take part in these festivals.

Even though there are numerous blooming seasons and flower-related festivals that have become quite popular, the unparalleled king of them all, attracts the most attention, and causes the most traffic jams is none other than the Cherry Blossom season in the early months of the New Year. 

If you haven’t already, I recommend checking out my guide to Taiwan’s Cherry Blossoms to learn more about the blossoms, the various species and more importantly where to find them: 

Link: Taiwan Sakura Guide (臺灣櫻花地圖)

This year, I had it all planned out, I would visit a few of the regular spots to check out the Cherry Blossoms, but I wouldn’t be going too out of my way to check them out as I’d be visiting Kyoto to check out the Japanese blossoms in full bloom while also checking out a bunch of Shinto Shrines.

Imagine my excitement.  

Unfortunately a little thing called the Coronavirus started spreading throughout the world like a wildfire becoming a global pandemic and due to a lack of preparation and response, Japan has become one of the hardest hit countries.

So, unfortunately my trip to Kyoto has been put on hold for a little while. 

I’ll probably still end up going sometime this year, if the epidemic cools off, but it looks like I won’t be there in time to enjoy the cherry blossoms. 

In need of a back up plan, I decided to take a day-trip to the mountains on the famed Northern Cross-Country Highway (北部橫貫公路) to check out what has become Taoyuan’s, and one of Taiwan’s most popular destinations for cherry blossom-viewing. 

The thing about cherry blossoms is that you can find trees growing almost everywhere in Taiwan, but if you want to see them growing in large quantities, you’re going to have to make an effort.

This means that popular destinations like Wuling Farm (武陵農場), Alishan (阿里山) and Yangmingshan (陽明山) are always jam-packed when the blossoms are in bloom.

This year, I waited until the blossoms were in full bloom and rented a car to head up to Taoyuan’s beautiful Lala Mountain (拉拉山), home to the famed “Loving Farm” (恩愛農場).

The farm, which is actually a large fruit ranch and a really nice place to rent a cabin for the weekend, has become one of the most popular blossom viewing areas and an Instagram hot-spot in recent years. 

Travelling on a weekday, I figured that I’d be able to easily sneak in to the farm, take some photos and then head over to some of the hiking trails nearby to check out some of the famed ‘divine trees’ (神木).

Unfortunately those plans turned out to be a bit too ambitious as even on a weekday, the cherry blossom-craze was in full effect and there was a two hour wait for cars to get up to the farm. 

It wasn’t a complete loss though, the farm was absolutely beautiful and was home to probably one of the largest concentrations of cherry blossoms that I’ve seen in Taiwan. 

Loving Farm (恩愛農場)

Lala Mountain’s “Loving Farm” is currently high atop the list of places to visit in Taiwan if you’re looking to check out cherry blossoms. Even though you have to make a special effort to get to the farm, it is currently considered to be one of the top ten places to visit by local guides. 

Link: 台灣TOP10賞櫻景點

The reason for this is that while you can easily find the dark-pink Taiwanese Mountain Sakura (山櫻花) growing in parks all over the country, the highly prized light-pink variety of Fuji Cherries (富士櫻) are few and far between, and rarely grow in abundance anywhere like they do at this farm. 

As I mentioned in the Sakura Guide linked above, there are around two dozen species of cherry blossoms in Taiwan, but the ones that are loved the most are those that appear to be the most similar to the ones most commonly found in Japan, such as Yoshino Cherries (吉野櫻).

This doesn’t mean people look down on the more common blossoms, but they can easily enjoy them as they grow throughout the cities and towns of the country.

Links: Sakura At Tian-Yuan Temple (天元宮吉野櫻) | Taiwan Cherry Blossoms (台灣山櫻花)

Still, every year when spring rolls around, thousands of people in Taiwan make the special effort to fly to Japan for the sole purpose of checking out the blossoms. With so many people travelling at this time of the year, getting time off work at this time can understandably be a bit difficult, so for the millions of others in Taiwan, it is the time of the year when they load the family into the car and take off to the mountains. 

Even though Taiwan is home to several species of cherry, most of them tend to be quite different than what you’d typically find in Japan, as they are the result of hybridization. With that in mind, it shouldn’t surprise you to learn that even though everyone is travelling to the farm to check out the beautiful “Fuji Cherry” (富士櫻), they’re not actually a cherry that you’ll find in Japan. 

In fact, Taiwan’s “Fuji Cherry” is a hybrid of the Taiwanese Mountain Cherry and the Japanese Yamazakura (山櫻花). I should probably also mention that you can also find a “Fuji Cherry” (Prunus incisa) in Japan, but the tree here in Taiwan is completely different. That being said, this tree is similar to quite a few species in Japan and its light-pink petals look like those of the popular Yoshino Cherry.

The Fuji Cherry however isn’t the only species of cherry blossom that you’ll come across at the Loving Farm - They also feature the dark-pink Taiwanese Mountain Cherry and the light-pink “Thousand-Island Cherry” (千島櫻), a variant of the Takanezakura (高嶺櫻), or the “Japanese Alpine Cherry”, in addition to one of the largest orchards of Peach Blossoms in Taiwan.

On that note, its probably a good time to mention that the ‘farm’ part of the ‘Loving Farm’ refers to one of the largest peach orchards in Taiwan - Taoyuan’s Lala Mountain is famed for its cultivation of peaches and this farm alone is home to almost two-thousand trees. While the annual cherry blossom season takes place between February and March, the farm is also a busy place from March to April when the Peach Blossoms (桃花) start blooming in preparation for the yearly harvest. The blossoms, which are a beautiful pink colour are one of the areas main attractions and the peaches help to drive the local economy.

If you’re in Taiwan and you haven’t had a Lalashan peach, you haven’t even lived.

Situated at an elevation of about 1600 meters above sea, the farm offers beautiful 180 degree views of the Central Mountain Range (中央山脈) and when the weather is good you can see as far as Snow Mountain (雪山) and the Daba Peaks (大霸尖山). 

It goes without saying that the farm is busiest in the early months of the year with the cherry and peach blossoming seasons, but it is a popular place year-round and also offers guests the opportunity to stay for a few nights in the beautiful, newly constructed log cabins at their home stay.

So if you’re visiting from out of town, you may want to just consider staying the night and enjoying a relaxing evening breathing the fresh mountain air.

Link: Staying at Loving Farm (拉拉山。恩愛農場住宿)

Getting There

 

Address: #143 Zhongxin Road, Fuxing District, Taoyuan City (桃園市復興區華陵里上巴陵中心路143號)

How is one to get to Lala Mountain and the Loving Farm? Well, that’s an excellent question. 

If you plan on visiting this farm, you’re going to need your own means of transportation.

So, if you or your friends have access to a car or a scooter, that’s probably your best bet. Its not impossible to get there using public transportation, but there’s no way in hell that I’d ever take a bus up there. I’m not that brave.

The farm is located in Upper Baling (上巴陵) within the Lalashan Forest Recreation Area (拉拉山森林遊樂區). To get there you’ll have to make use of Highway 7 (台7線), otherwise known as the Northern Cross Highway (北橫公路), that takes you from Taoyuan’s Daxi District (大溪區) to Yilan’s Datong Township (大同鄉) on the east coast. Whether your start your trip across the Northern Cross Highway on the Taoyuan side or the Yilan side is completely up to you.

Once you’ve arrived at the entrance to the Lala Mountain Forest Recreation Area, you’ll have to turn off the highway and make your way further up the mountain to the Atayal (泰雅族) village of Upper Baling.

The small mountainous village is a pretty cool place to visit and is a welcome stop after you’ve spent a few hours sitting in the car or on the bus. There is a 7-11 and a couple of local restaurants serving up Atayal cuisine, so if you’ve got some time, I recommend stopping by.

Sunset over the Central Mountain Range

Even though I’m not brave enough to take public transportation to the area, you might be, so here’s where I’ll mention that the public transportation ‘option’ is Bus #5301 that starts at the Zhongli Bus Terminal (中壢客運站).

The bus will take you all the way to Upper Baling (and beyond) but doesn’t come that frequently, so you’ll have to be really careful if you choose this option as you don’t want to get stuck in the mountains at night.

Although I’m sure if you were walking down the highway, someone would pick you up and help you out.

Once you’ve arrived at the Upper Baling stop, all you’ll have to do is walk a couple of kilometres up the mountain to the farm - Its a long walk though, so prepare yourself! 

Link: Zhongli Bus #5301 (中壢客運5301)

If you’re driving, once you arrive at Upper Baling, it’s likely that you’ll notice that they’ll have traffic controls in effect. So you’ll have to get yourself into a queue of cars that are waiting to head up the small road to the Loving Farm.

The thing about the farm is that there is only space for about one hundred cars to park and the road that brings you there is quite narrow, so the traffic controls have been put in place to ensure that tourists can get there safely.

If you are visiting at a time when the farm is busy, you’ll be placed in a queue of cars along Baling Road with only about 20-50 cars permitted to go up the mountain every hour. Once you’re up the mountain, you’ll also have to pay close attention to the announcer in the parking lot who will let everyone know when cars are permitted to head down the mountain, usually intervals of fifty minutes. 

If you find yourself waiting in the queue, just be patient, they are quite efficient at getting people up and down the mountain in a timely and safe manner. Make sure to bring some good music, snacks and drinks for the car though.

Once you’ve arrived at the farm, there will be attendants at the entrance of the parking lot who will let you know where to park and ask for a $100NT admission fee (per person), which is pretty cheap considering the amount of staff they have to employ to make sure traffic is smooth. 

For more information, check the Loving Farm Facebook Page:

Link: Loving Farm (恩愛農場)  

Getting to Lala Mountain isn’t the easiest of tasks - its a long drive up the highway.

The farm also tends to be quite busy, so you’ll have to prepare yourself for a long drive and a possible wait. Once you’ve arrived though, you’ll find that it was all worth it as the farm is absolutely beautiful when the blossoms are in full bloom and you’ll undoubtedly leave with several hundred photos - or several thousand if you’re like me!

Remember, the blossoming period for the blossoms is from late February to mid-March, so if you’re in Taiwan at this time of the year, try your best to make your way to the farm, or any of the popular sakura viewing areas around the country to enjoy the beautiful cherry blossoms!


Tung Blossoms 2019 (客家桐花祭)

As a long term resident of Taoyuan, I’ve been lucky over the years to have been immersed in pretty much everything that is Hakka culture. Almost everywhere you go around here, you’re able to find amazing cuisine, festivals and museums set up to share and preserve the culture and language of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

Of all the Hakka related festivals that take place every year, the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival has grown to be one of my personal favourites. Taking place every April and May, the festival showcases the beautiful Tung Blossom, a Sakura-like blossom which has become synonymous with the Hakka people.

As each year passes, festival organizers do an amazing job of coming up with new and exciting events and activities that attracts people of all walks of life to the mountains throughout the Taoyuan-Hsinchu-Miaoli area and beyond.

I’ve never really needed any these snazzy events to attract my attention - The beautiful Tung Blossoms that turn Taoyuan’s lush green mountainous landscape white in the months leading up to summer have always been more than enough for me and during the two-month period when the blossoms are in bloom, the beauty of the Taoyuan area in particular begins to shine - and I head to the mountains in my free time to take photos and enjoy nature.

Many of the events that are planned it seems are geared toward attracting the older crowd who are more interested in a day-trip where they can combine the blossoms, some entertainment and most importantly some great food. The younger crowds on the other hand have proven to be much easier to attract as they’re all about the Instagram, and what could be more Instagrammable than these beautiful white blossoms?

As it has become somewhat of a yearly tradition of mine to head to the mountains to check out the Tung Blossoms, there are a few locations that have become my go-to destinations for taking photos. One of the problems when taking photos of these blossoms is that unlike the relatively short cherry blossom trees, Tung trees are tall and that makes it difficult to get close to where they’re blooming.

Not everyone has a telephoto lens, so this is why people have come up with clever ways and cute to take photos of the blossoms. If you pay attention to Instagram, you may have noticed people collecting the blossoms that have fallen to the ground and to heart-shaped designs, Tung blossom crowns, or taking cleverly posed photos of the mountain paths where the blossoms have fallen on the ground creating what looks like a layer of snow.

Personally, I prefer taking photos of the blossoms while they’re still on the tree, so the places I visit are often areas that allow me to get close enough to take photos. This year, I decided to visit a location that I’ve never visited before, but has become a photo hotspot, due to the relative youth of the trees and the ability to get close enough to the blossoms to take photos.

On the day I visited, the place was packed with people of all ages taking photos, having picnics and enjoying a Hakka concert and dance performance. I typically stay away from places like this, especially those that have become really popular with Instagram types but on this day, I didn’t really mind. I had a great time taking photos and people-watching.

I was also able to have a good laugh on several occasions as the beautiful young woman featured in some of the photos scolded her boyfriend for taking sub-par photos. One of her comments stuck with me: “The picture you took of me makes me look like a dinosaur!” (你把我拍的跟恐龍一樣).

I can’t imagine how stressful it is being the boyfriend of an aspiring Instagram beauty.

If you’re reading this and are interested in heading to the mountains to take some photos of the Tung Blossoms, I recommend going soon, before you do though, make sure to consult the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival website linked below. The website provides accurate advice on where are the best locations to view the blossoms and their current state.

Tung Blossoms: 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018

Tung Blossoms (油桐花)

Every year between the months of April and May, forests in many areas of Taiwan turn white thanks to the Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that grow throughout the mountains and hillsides of the country. Often referred to as as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom), the arrival of Tung Blossom triggers a considerable amount of domestic tourism with people of all ages making an effort to travel to areas where the trees grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that grows to a height of about 20 meters. It is endemic to South China and Burma but was brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the Japanese Colonial Era (1895-1945), and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan for its economic uses.

The cultivation of the tree was became most important to the ethnic Hakka people of Taiwan who lived in the areas where the trees were cultivated. The tree brought with it economic benefits as its seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the timber was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks.

When the economic benefits of the Tung tree eventually subsided, it took on a new role transforming into a symbol of the Hakka people and the long lasting relationship that they have shared.

While not as popular as Cherry Blossoms, Tung blossoms are loved for their ability to turn hiking trails 'white' with a snowfall effect as the blossoms fall to the ground.

The popularity of Tung Blossoms has skyrocketed in recent years with young people, especially young couples who head to the mountains to have impromptu photoshoots with the blossoms. You’ll often see couples on hiking trails collecting blossoms that have fallen on the ground to arrange into a heart or young men putting the blossoms on a string to make a ‘Tung blossom crown’ for their girlfriends - endless amounts of cuteness, I assure you.

Hakka Tung Blossom Festival (客家桐花祭)

In 2002 the Council for Hakka Affairs started the annual "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event which takes places during the two month blooming season as a way to promote and help to preserve Taiwan’s Hakka culture.

The well-organized event attracts large crowds of tourists to Hakka areas of the country, most notably in Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli to not only see the blossoms but also to learn about and experience Hakka culture and cuisine. Organizers plan events according to the blooming season offering visitors entertainment and a festive atmosphere at the popular blossom viewing destinations.

I don’t heap praise too often on websites produced by the Taiwanese government, but the website for this festival is arguably one of the most beautiful and interactive spaces on the web. The site offers real-time information on the condition of the Tung Blossoms and the best places to view them by region. Likewise, the website is available in Chinese (Traditional and Simplified) as well as Japanese, Korean and English giving international tourists the opportunity to view the blossoms and experience the culture of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

If you are thinking about checking out these beautiful blossoms, click one of the links below!

 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival Website: English | 中文 | 日語 | 조선말