Vendors

People of the Night 11 (寧夏夜市)

The next three posts in my People of the Night series are going to be from Taipei'sNingxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) 

The night market is situated in Taipei's lovely Dadaocheng (大稻埕) district which is one of the oldest areas in the city and offers a nostalgic feeling when you visit as most of the buildings in the area have been around for a long, long time.  

The Ningxia Night Market is not a large night market, but it has some really great food and is probably most well-known for its Oyster Omelets (蚵仔煎) and other traditional Taiwanese dishes. The night market has been revitalized over the past few years and is really well organized and quality and sanitation are really important to all the vendors.

Admittedly, before starting this project, I had never been to this night market. Since then, I've made several visits over a period of a few weeks and quickly fell in love with this night market.

I have split up my shots from the night market into three posts. The first post will cover drinks and fruit and the two posts following it will be all about the food vendors.



1. Japanese Fish Balls (日式魚蛋)

If there is ANY night market food that I absolutely HAVE to eat while I'm there, its these fish balls. They are made of fish that is ground up into a paste and then formed into balls and braised in a special soup. For me, I always get the fish balls in spicy Szechuan flavour with some wasabi pepper on top. The fish balls come on a stick with four of them for about a dollar US which makes them relatively cheap and a nice appetizer before moving on to other dishes. This stall wasn't the easiest to shoot as the boss has a TV screen blocking the view of him. I really wanted to add a shot of these though because I hold them in such high regard. 

2. Oyster Omelets (蚵仔煎)

If you go to Ningxia Night Market and you don't have an Oyster Omelet, you've more or less wasted your time. Ningxia is well known for its Oyster Omelet's and you often have to wait in a long line for the best stalls. In this shot we have an Oyster Omelet chef preparing several omelet's at a time which shows just how busy they are. This particular store is one of the most popular stores in the night market and there are always lines of people waiting to get it - as far as I'm concerned, despite the lines, this one doesn't serve the best Oyster Omelet's in the night market. That is my personal opinion though. I recommend you just try them all and decide for yourself!  

3. BBQ Squid (烤魷魚)

Before coming to Taiwan I was a big fan of having calamari at pubs. It was always really expensive though and rarely fresh. Life changed completely when I arrived here as there is fresh squid almost everywhere. The Taiwanese are masters when it comes to cooking squid and at this particular stall you get an entire squid fresh off the grill. When the squid is ready you can eat it hot off the stick, or the boss will cut it up in pieces for you and give you a toothpick to eat it with. No matter how you eat it, if you come to Taiwan, you should definitely have some squid. 

4. Grilled Seafood (烤海鮮)

These kind of seafood stalls are somewhat of a new thing in Taiwan's night markets. I'm not sure if they're a reflection of the influx of Chinese tourism, or if it is just a natural progression in Taiwan's seafood market. Whatever the reason, you can buy some fresh oysters, squid, shrimp, fish and Japanese scallops at market price and the boss will grill them up for you. I haven't really tried these stalls as I'd prefer to have a seafood feast at a harbour where the fish has just came off the boat. I don't think the seafood is actually very expensive though, so if you are into seafood, give it a try! 

5. Oyster Omelets (蚵仔煎)

Oyster omelet's are so popular at the Ningxia Night Market that you have stalls that sell other foods, but also sell the omelet's as a way to stay in business. This stall sells a variety of dishes including fried noodles, medicinal lamb soup, fried rice and oyster omelet's! In the shot we can see the boss preparing several omelet's which means that even though he likely specializes in other foods, he still does great business selling the omelet's as well. 

6. Grilled Squid stuff with Rice (烤魷魚飯)

This is somewhat of a new dish in Taiwan and I can't really say whether it is good or bad. The boss soaks a squid in its ink and then puts a kind of rice inside the squid and wraps it up and barbecues it. When the squid is finished the boss will slice it up and to me, the finished product looks a little bit like an eggplant. I haven't tried this dish yet, but I plan on trying it the next time I see one as it seems quite interesting. 

7. Deep Fried Shrimp Buns (炸蝦仁包)

These things are a new take on an old classic. Steamed Buns, or Baozi (包子) are a popular food from northern China where you have a nice bread-like exterior with some meat inside. These "Baozi" are 100% Taiwanese though as the filling consists of fresh oysters or shrimp with egg and are then closed up and deep fried. They are an interesting new take on the traditional steamed buns and are a testament to how Taiwanese take old dishes and make them their own. I tried several times to get a shot of this vendor as I passed by but she is always wearing a face mask for sanitary reasons. I haven't actually tried these buns yet, but as I sit here writing about them, I'm starting to crave one. Looks like I'll be heading to the night market soon! 

8. Grilled Seafood (烤海鮮)

Same boss, different night! This shot is a different perspective of the same guy in #3. In this shot we have a different angle of the vendor and his stall which shows some squid that is ready to be prepared (on the stick), some boxes of steamed shrimp with garlic as well as some raw shrimp and raw squid waiting to be prepared. I'm not sure if seafood was always popular at the Ningxia Night Market (apart from Oyster Omelet's) or if the current stalls are a result of the influx of tourists from China - nevertheless, more stalls selling grilled squid with different options is fine by me! You can never have enough squid as far as I'm concerned! 


People of the Night 2 (中壢夜市人像)

This is the second post in my People of the Night Photo Project that I'll be working on over the next few months. In this post, I am continuing to introduce some of the vendors at the Zhongli Night Market (中壢夜市), a large open-air night market near where I live. Each post will contain five shots and will introduce a little bit about what these people do for a living. 

If you haven't seen the first post in the series, please click here to be brought back to check it out. Thanks for coming and I hope you like the shots! 

1. BBQ Corn (烤玉米)

When I first arrived in Taiwan, my friend and I went to the night market and she ordered some BBQ corn. I looked at it and wondered why she would want to eat a burnt piece of corn. To the naked eye it just looks like a burnt cob of corn. Fast forward eight years and these are one of my favourite things to eat at the night market. The corn is cooked at high heat and the cook constantly spreads a Taiwanese satay sauce on it - which gives off the burnt look and makes the corn incredibly delicious. I'm also a big fan of this particular stall which is the most popular at the night market and often requires a bit of a wait. 

2. Braised Snacks (滷味) 

Braising food is a popular style of cooking in Taiwan and one of the most popular kinds of braised food is "Lu-Wei" (滷味) which more or less translates literally as "Braised Flavour." 

You can find vendors selling Lu-Wei on almost every street around the country. Each of them will have their own flavour of soup to braise the food in as well as a different set of ingredients that can be added. This particular vendor is the most popular in the night market - They have a pretty big stall with a wide variety of vegetables, tofu, meat to boil in the hot soy-sauce based soup. This kind of food is great, especially in winter and the best thing about it is that you get to choose all your own ingredients! 

3. Quail Eggs (鳥蛋串) 

Quail Eggs are small eggs that taste more or less the same as a chicken egg. They look much cooler when they're in the shell though. The eggs at this kind of stand are fried in a special pan and which makes them form into a ball. When they're ready, they are put on a stick and topped with pepper, chili sauce, ketchup or soy bean paste and eaten like a kebab. This vendor is also selling Tea-Eggs (茶葉蛋) which are hard-boiled eggs braised in a soy-sauce and tea leaf based soup that turns the eggs brown. Tea-Eggs seem to be pretty popular among the foreign crowds and my friends are constantly buying them as they're sold at every 7-11 location around the country. 

4. The Versatility of the Night Market

Taiwan is a country of fads - Something that is popular this week may likely be pushed to the sidelines in favour of the newest big thing next week. The night markets around Taiwan have their staple vendors that will be there every day of the year no matter what is popular - but night markets are predominately a fad-driven industry - which means that if your stall is not "in fashion" anymore, your business will suffer. When this happens, vendors basically have to adapt their business strategy. In this shot we see a woman with a stall that was originally selling roasted candy chestnuts (糖炒栗子) but if you look closely at the stall she covered her sign's logo with some handwriting. Business likely wasn't very good, so she started selling quail eggs as a way to stay in business. 

5. Dessert Stand (甜點) 

One thing I miss the most from home is all the great desserts my mom makes. Taiwan has improved quite a lot in recent years when it comes to the availability of western-styled desserts and snacks but I think the basic concept of what constitutes a great dessert can be a bit different for Taiwanese and westerners. I do miss certain sweet foods from home, but Taiwan has some amazing desserts of its own and I've come to love them just as much as what we have in Canada.

In this shot we have a stall set up selling hot cereal-like desserts made from natural ingredients (almonds, soy beans, taro, red beans etc.) This vendor has won several awards for their ability to provide great tasting food at the night market while being the healthiest of all the vendors. This type of dessert is obviously not what I'm used to bug on a cold winter night, it hits the spot! 

People of the Night (中壢夜市人像)

- Introduction - 

One of my personal goals in photography this year is to improve my skills with street photography. I'm really interested in the compelling work street photographers are able to produce that tell stories of the lives of every day people and that was an area I wanted to really work on. 

I wanted to come up with an interesting way to take these kinds of shots and integrate them in a Taiwan-related theme as a photo project that would be done over a period of time. What I decided to start with is taking candid street-style portraits of the vendors at night markets and to tell a bit of their story. 

Over the next few weeks, I'm going to be posting blogs each with five street shots from the night market and I'll introduce a bit about what that person sells - similar to what the "Humans of New York" photoblogger does.

 The first few entries are going to focus on my favourite Night Market: The Zhongli Night Market (中壢觀光夜市) and then when I've exhausted all the types of stalls there, I'll move on to other popular night markets around the country.

If you're not sure what a night market is, its basically a street or an area set up during the night which sells various kinds of food and various other things. Night Markets are excellent places for cheap food and you can have a four course meal at a night market for only a few dollars. Night Markets are important in Taiwanese culture and are often the best night life you can experience in certain areas outside of Taipei as you'll find people of all walks of life enjoying the carnival like atmosphere. 

The Zhongli Night Market is over 700 meters long and has several rows of vendors. Browsing a night market is always a pretty cool experience for foreigners who come to Taiwan as its a great way to experience a bit of the liveliness of Taiwanese culture. 


1. Mahjong Boss (麻將老闆)

Gambling is a pretty popular activity in Taiwan - this game of Mahjong is all in good fun though as you only have to pay 100NT ($3.00US) to play six rounds of Mahjong with the possibility of winning a huge stuffed animal. Ironically living in Taiwan for as long as I have - I still haven't figured out how to play the game - so this stall isn't one that I frequent very often, but its normal to see young Taiwanese couples walking through the night market with the boyfriend carrying a huge stuffed animal for his extremely happy girlfriend. 

2. Fresh Cakes from the back of a Scooter (雞蛋糕老闆) 

This guy makes some mean cakes. I don't actually know how to translate these beauties into English, but they're basically just animal shaped pancakes that are cooked on an iron griddle. This guy has been in business for over 30 years and his product is always a nice way to end your night at the night market!  You can get a freshly cooked serving for around 20NT (less than a dollar) and they're always cooked fresh and crispy. 

3. The Lonely Fortune Teller (算命者)  

This guy has been at the night market for as long as I've been living here. He's there every night and he always dresses well - even on extremely hot summer nights. I don't pretend to understand the methods to a Taiwanese fortune tellers mayhem, but they are popular here and some people only make important life decisions based on the advice of one of these guys. I posted this shot a week or two ago on Facebook and one of my photographer friends cleverly commented that as a fortune teller, you would think he would be able to predict a slow business night. 

4. Shoe Salesman (鞋子老闆) 

Taiwan is a very country with its finger on the beating heart of fashion - People young and old dress in the latest styles from Japan, Korea and the West. When something is popular fashion-wise, you can be sure that you'll find the latest knock-offs available at the night market. I'm not sure how much business is done by the night market shoes salesmen, but if his falling asleep on the job is any indication - he's probably not that busy.

5. Shaomai King (燒賣王)

Shaomai (燒賣) is a type of steamed Cantonese dumplings usually eaten with Dim Sum. The dumplings are very colourful and come filled with pork, vegetables, shrimp and other types of seafood. Shaomai isn't typical Taiwanese night market fare, but these little dumplings are tasty and cheap. My favourite flavour is the wasabi pork dumplings, a typical Taiwanese fusion of Chinese and Japanese cuisine!