Long Exposure

Sunset at Daodaocheng Wharf

I was going to leave this post until the end of the summer, but there are two timely events taking place around the Dadaocheng Wharf this weekend, so I'm going to post now and provide some links to the events in case anyone is in Taipei and interested in taking part. 

The first event is a Photowalk held by some of my friends in my Photowalking group. The purpose of the walk is to walk around the area of the wharf and will include three of the old Taipei city gates and will eventually show up to the wharf for fireworks and the music festival. 

Event Link: Photowalkers Facebook Group

The second event is the newly minted "Sounds from the River" music festival (大稻埕情人日) which will include free live concerts and is part of the much larger Riverside Music festival (台北河岸音樂季) as well as a large fireworks display.

Event Link: Sounds of the River

If you are free tomorrow (August 6th) you might want to check out these events!  

 Dadaocheng Wharf

The Dadaocheng Wharf is a newly renovated and quite popular outdoor activity spot for the residents of Taipei and is a short walking distance from the Taipei Railway Station. The long wharf has been integrated into the much longer bicycle path which spans almost the entire distance of the city and is a busy spot on weekends with various recreational events held throughout the year.

The wharf has played an important role in history and helped fuel the early economic success of the city and of the Dadaocheng area (which is now part of Datong district - 大同區) specializing in textiles, tea, cotton and a lot of what you're still able to see today on the popular Dihua shopping street. The area was sort of a more inland harbour for merchants to get their products both in and out of the city at a much quicker pace than from the original wharf near Danshui.

Much like a lot of other economically successful towns of the past, the merchant shopping area around Dadaocheng (which is considered to be "old" Taipei) has turned into somewhat of an "old street" where you can see the same type of "baroque" architecture that is prevalent in places like Daxi and Sanxia and merchants sell traditional products that aren't very easy to find.

The reason why the economic situation changed in so many of these places was because of the completion of Taiwan's railway system which took away the economic monopoly of businesses using the river and also made transportation of goods much more convenient. Businesses which ultimately made their fortune importing and exporting products by way of the river were thus forced to either relocate or thunk of new business ventures.

Today however, the Dihua Street Lunar New Year market is a local tradition for the people of Taipei and while the street attracts quite a few tourists throughout the year, the Lunar New Year market brings in well over a million visitors a year. The market sells a lot of the same things you would have seen hundreds of years ago in the form of silks, textiles, traditional Chinese snacks, food and medicine and is still the best place Taipei to do your one stop shopping for traditional materials.

If you want to learn more about the historic Dadaocheng area of Taipei, check out this site which is probably the best resource on the Internet with regards to events and historical information: Love, Dadaocheng.

I've also blogged in the past about the Dihua Street Lunar New Year market as well as the Confucius Temple (台北孔廟), Bao-An Temple (保安宮) and Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) which are all within Taipei's Datong District and are a short walking distance from each other.

Back to the wharf - while it may not look the same today as it did in the past but it is still functional and on weekends there are ferries that transport people between Taipei and Danshui on a regular basis. You won't see too many boats going down the river these days but I have heard that the city is developing plans to make the river a more tourist friendly area in the near future!

Apart from being a popular spot for recreational activities, it has become a popular place to view the sunset and faces the skyline of the Sanchong district (三重區) of New Taipei City. Sanchong is developing at a lighting pace due to the price of housing in Taipei city and the skyline is one that changes almost daily. The skyline faces the direction where the sun sets so it is one of Taipei's best places to view the sunset.

The wharf is actually really pretty and catching the sunset there is quite nice, so if you're in the area around that time of the day, check it out. And if you're free the weekend, check out the events. 


Yuan-Yang Valley Waterfalls (鴛鴦谷)

The Yuan-Yang Valley (鴛鴦谷) is set within a National Forest Recreation (國家森林遊樂園) area and is rich in hiking trails, beautiful waterfalls and rivers. The park is just outside of an Atayal Indigenous village in Hsinchu's mountainous and extremely picturesque Jianshi village (尖石鄉). The valley is a short, yet beautiful drive from Neiwan (內灣) and is close to a popular camping ground situated within the small indigenous village.

There is a lot to do within this forest park, but I'm going to focus on a few of the waterfalls found within and post only photos of them. The park has several hiking trails and while the spectacular waterfalls might be the major attraction, there is still a lot for me to explore in this area and I'm eager to get back to hike some of the trails within. 

From the entrance to the park, the waterfalls are a short hike up a paved mountain trail from a trailhead that is just past the village. The trailhead is blocked for cars, but you can easily get a scooter in and drive up to the falls if you're feeling lazy.

The two main waterfalls are not very far from each other but oddly there is a sign along the path that indicates the entrance to a waterfall for one and not the other. This trail is developed quite well while the trail to other requires a bit of bravery to get to it. If you haven't come prepared for a hike (or River trace) it might be best to skip the much larger waterfall and keep hiking towards the second which is on a safer path.

To get to the first waterfall on the trail you have to have a keen eye and watch the road as someone has spray painted in red ink "Waterfall #1" (瀑布1) on the road with arrows pointing to a small path that goes directly off the road. The marker is easy to miss because the road is often covered in foliage. I completely missed it the first time, but truthfully the first time I visited I had no idea that there was more than one set of falls.

Waterfall #1 has several tiers and the water you're likely to see flowing down the falls isn't like what you'll see at the other set however the sheer height of the falls and the fact that it has several tiers makes it much more beautiful than the other set. I estimate that it is about 40 meters tall making it considerably larger than Waterfall #2.

It isn't that easy to get very close to Waterfall #1 and it seems like it is best viewed from a distance. If you plan on getting close to it, you're going to have to have river tracing shoes and be prepared for wet, slippery rocks that are dangerous. It's possible to get up close and personal with it, unfortunately the day that I went it called for rain and as I was crossing the river it started, so I didn't try to climb up on the rocks. 

Waterfall #2 is about a one hundred meter hike from the trailhead to the first set and sits on a much more developed trail than the other. No ropes are necessary and it is a short two minute walk from the road to the falls. When you arrive at the falls you come up to a viewing platform where you can see the falls from a distance.

There are warning signs that swimming is not permitted and I'm not going to recommend you go for a swim, but I'm pretty sure I would have if I wasn't carrying a bunch of photo equipment with me. To get to the base of the falls you need to be really careful and jump over the rail at the viewing platform to walk down a small hill. I have to say that if you choose to check out the falls at base level or go for a swim that high you have to be really careful and make sure you're wearing proper footwear. It's not likely that your cellphone will have service in the area so if an accident happens you're not in the best situation.

Apart from the two major waterfalls within the park, there are actually several waterfalls within the valley and while heading back to the trailhead I noticed serval more large sets of falls in the distance on the other side of the mountain. I'd really love to find out if there are any river tracing groups that are familiar with the area because there is so much more to see than these two sets of falls. 

I find that these waterfalls (and the forest park as a whole) are under-appreciated and not many people visit them, so I hope that if you're in the area you should definitely check them out. The valley is beautiful and there is some pretty awesome scenery to be found within the park. 

If you like camping there are great campgrounds in the indigenous village near the falls and if you know anything about Taiwan's indigenous peoples you're sure to have a great time if you hang out with them for a weekend!

The drive to the waterfalls through Jianshi is absolutely beautiful and it's only about a 20 minute drive past Neiwan. There is lots to do in the area so if you're looking for a great day trip you might want to start with these falls then check out some locations in Jianshi and then end the day in Neiwan for some dinner on the old street.

For GPS location and similar info check out these links:

Taiwan Waterfalls - Yuan Yang Valley

Follow Xiaofei - Yuan Yang Valley Waterfalls 


The "Wilds" of Zhongli

A few months ago my friend Alexander Synaptic, the wandering urban explorer moved to what some "professional" photographers in Taipei refer to as "the wilds of Zhongli", the city I've called home for the past decade. While living here only for a few months Alexander explored on his own and ending up taking me places and teaching me about things that I had somehow overlooked or hadn't noticed during my decade of living here.

The city has a bad reputation among expat residents of Taipei who like their Taiwanese counterparts have a tendency of speaking about other areas of the country with their special "天龍國-mentality". Zhongli has been referred to in any number of pejorative ways over the years but the most popular is calling it the "armpit" of Taiwan. This reputation stems a bit from the way people in Taipei look down on the other cities of the country and from the fact that Zhongli has always been an industrial satellite city of Taipei known for its lack of urban planning and the dullness of life here.

It was always a stereotype that irritated me, but my days of defending the city seem soon to be over and so will the inane comments of a few people who rarely leave the safety of their MRT!

Fast forward a decade and it's easy to see that some pretty awesome urban development work has been undertaken by the county government and an extremely successful long-term beautification plan has had a pretty great effect on improving the lives of the people living here.

Taoyuan county has become much more prosperous over the years and a lot of effort has been spent on the "Taoyuan Metropolis" project making the newly amalgamated supercity a green one that is attractive to residents of Taipei who want to live close to the city, but avoid the sky-rocketing price of real-estate there. 

As things started to improve around here I slowly forgot about the old stuff, the stuff that made Zhongli what it was for so long and helped to earn its reputation among the Taipei elite. Having Alexander live here reminded me a bit of the days of when I first arrived and was more of an explorer. Things that I had become accustomed to became normal and unattractive suddenly became interesting again and I have to thank him for that! 

A few weeks ago Alexander happened to be taking a train back up to Taipei from the south of the country and decided to stop into Zhongli for some of his favourite beef noodles (Zhongli is the birthplace of the dish), a beer and a chat before heading back on the last train to Taipei. Just after getting off the train and meeting up he looked at me and said: Hey wanna see something cool?

Alexander's kind of "cool" is much different than most and it quickly found us walking on the rooftop of the Caishen Building (財神大樓), one of the biggest eyesores in the city and is what will probably (unfortunately) become your first impression of the city if you travel by train. Residents of the city have been waving their fists in its general direction for years as it is one of the reminders of what the downtown core of the city used to be like. 

I never would have imagined that the ugliest building in the city happened to overlook the Zhongli Train Station (中壢車站) and the rotary in front of it. The train station is basically the center of town and is part of a transportation hub that will soon include the High Speed Rail, Airport Link and Taoyuan MRT as well as having a large bus terminal pretty much next door. 

The photos I'm posting today are all long exposure shots of that area and I have to thank Alexander for showing me this great view in the first place!

I've been pretty sarcastic in my wording throughout this post - but after a decade of living here and calling this city home, I feel like I've earned the right to be sarcastic, especially from the never ending jeers I receive from people who don't really know much about the area.

The local government has done a great job in improving the city and coming from someone who studied development in university, I hope that they continue along this path making this area a much greener and more beautiful place to live!