廟口

People of the Night 19 (基隆廟口夜市)

The Keelung Miaokou Tourist Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) is often introduced by Travel guides as a MUST visit on any travellers as the night market is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country. In my first post of shots from the night market I focused on seafood dishes which the night market is the most famous for, the second post was all about the meat while this post has various desserts, juice and an uncommon sight in a night market - a vegetarian stall!

Miaokou Part 1 | Miaokou Part 2

1. Iced Desserts (QQ涼圓)

I love this shot, it was one of the first shots I took at the night market while visiting. I arrived at the night market a bit early because I planned on eating before the crowds arrived and getting the lay of the land to better understand what the night market was about. This vendor sat at the entrance of the night market with her cart full of icy Taiwanese desserts and she looked like she wasn't having the best day. One of my favourite shots from the Raohe nightmarket was also of a vendor selling these delicious little treats (although the setting is completely different) basically, these are little gelatinous balls that are served in a bag of shedded ice with a scoop of brown sugar sauce on top and the vendor will give you a toothpick to pick them out. They are a cheap dessert and are traditional Taiwanese snacks, so of course I recommend you try them! 

2. Candied strawberries/tomatoes (糖葫蘆)

Taiwanese people don't really have a “sweet tooth” like North Americans do - Whenever my mom sends candy from home and I share it with my friends, they always complain about how sweet it I and  I usually just roll my eyes as I think they're crazy. The tables always turn on me when it comes to these candied fruit kebabs though. They are just like candied apples back home, but you get strawberries or cherry tomatoes on a stick and they are soaked in the candy and the end result is almost disgustingly sweet - Way too much for my tastebuds at least. Even worse is when when you get the cherry tomato version and it is both too sweet and too sour at the same time. Despite my overactive tastebuds not appreciating these kebabs, Taiwanese kids love them and they're almost the perfect snack for children visiting the night market. 

3. Fresh Orange Juice (新鮮果汁) 

This vendor actually pissed me off a bit, she was advertising 100% orange juice, which initially had me excited as fresh orange juice is one of my favourite drinks. I stopped and bought a 100NT bottle and was planning on drinking it on the train back home. When I got on the train I opened up my juice and tasted a watered down orange juice with way too much sugar. Clearly this vendor was set up to sell to tourists and even though I've been here over ten years, I still fell for a tourist trap. I've had fresh 100% orange juice like this in other night markets so I was a bit surprised that someone would sell drinks like this at a night market, but Miaokou is a very touristy night market and it is often frequented by Chinese tourists, so I guess the vendor took the opportunity to make a quick buck.

4. Sweet Potato Pancakes (地瓜餅) 

Pancakes aren't a really a big thing in Taiwan as people here much prefer waffles covered in everything from ice cream and fruit to tuna and corn. It's not that common to find pancakes in a night market, but then again these aren't really the pancakes that you're thinking about. These pancakes are made from a sweet potato based paste and pan fried. They are sweet, but also a bit bland in flavour. I'm not particularly a big fan of sweet potatoes so I'm probably not the best judge as to whether these actually taste good or not, but for my palate they seem to be missing something. If it were up to me, I'd just add maple syrup, but that's just because I'm Canadian and that's how we roll.

5. Vegetarian Food (素食) 

Vegetarian food in the night market? Well, I suppose they have to cater to everybody! Taiwan's night markets aren't really the most friendly places for our hipster veggie-eating friends to find some food, but on occasion you can find a vegetarian-friendly stall or two in every night market. This particular vendor serves up several vegetarian noodle dishes as well as soup and Japanese-style curry rice. They're all probably pretty tasty if you're a vegetarian but I'm much more prone to eating the much tastier variety of night market snacks than trying this kind. 

That's it for the Keelung Miaokou night market. I'll go back to posting normal stuff for a while and then after a month or two I'll probably do another set from another night market. I hope you enjoyed the shots so far and if you're interested you can check out all of the other night market posts in the links below. 


Gallery

People of the Night 18 (基隆廟口夜市)

The Keelung Miaokou Tourist Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) is often introduced by Travel guides as a MUST visit on any travellers as the night market is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country. In my first post of shots from the night market I focused on seafood dishes which the night market is the most famous for. Today's post however is all about MEAT, so if you're a vegan, avert your eyes. 

1. Taiwanese Pork Knuckle (豬腳) 

The first shot is of a vendor that sells Taiwanese style pork knuckle. I'm a big fan of this stall and I've sat down quite a few times for some of his pork knuckle rice (豬腳飯). This vendor is extremely busy and there is often a line which doesn't surprise me at all given how tasty his dishes are. You can buy rice dishes or the popular pork knuckle vermicelli (豬腳麵線) which is a favourite among Taiwanese guests. Taiwanese pork knuckle is a lot different than what you'd expect from its German counterpart as it is braised long enough that the meat is extremely tender and full of flavour. If you're in the night market and you see an empty seat at this stall, don't hesitate to grab that seat and feast on some of the excellent dishes he has available! 

2. Taiwanese Bite-Sized Sausage (一口吃香腸) 

A few years ago one of the MUST eats all over Taiwan was these bite-sized sausages. It seemed like every night market in Taiwan had some "Miaokou Bite-Sized Sausages" (廟口一口吃香腸). The craze over these sausages has settled down a lot since then but the original stall still remains and it is one of the most popular stalls in the market. The mini-sausages are prepared en masse and you order however many you want and they serve it to you in a paper bag filled with fresh cloves of garlic. If you've ever had Taiwanese sausage and garlic cloves together you'd probably agree with me that they were basically made for each other. Whenever I visit Miaokou I always buy a small bag full of these goodies and walk away happy. They're juicy and full of flavour! 

3. Spare-Rib Soup (燒排骨羹)

My mom makes a mean pot of sweet and sour spare ribs - a dish that whenever I think about it, I automatically feel like buying a ticket home. Not many things make me miss home as much as my mum’s home cooking. When it comes to spareribs though, Taiwan covers that craving quite well yet in a completely different way and one of my favourite noodle dishes here is steamed sparerib noodles (排骨酥麵).The spare-ribs used in this dish are steamed in what look like little round dim-sum containers. The texture and taste is completely different from what we get at home and the meat just falls off of the bone. The spareribs are placed on top of a tasty bowl of noodles with a clear broth and the soup basically absorbs the flavour of the ribs making it a really tasty dish - especially in the winter! 

4. Night Market Sashimi (生魚飯) 

Sushi is probably my favourite food. People often ask me: "If you love sushi so much, why didn't you move to Japan?" to which I reply: "Because the best sushi is in Taiwan" and that is something that I stand by. Taiwan does Japanese food extremely well and sushi is just one of those things that the Taiwanese have assimilated into their culinary specialities since the Japanese colonial era. The great thing about sushi in Taiwan is that the seafood is always fresh, the quality is much similar to what you'd get in Japan and its a fraction of the price. I'm not particularly a fan of eating sushi in the night market, but this is Keelung and the city is known for its sushi, so why not? The sashimi at this little bar is inexpensive, prepared beautifully and is really fresh. I learned not to discriminate night market sashimi from these guys and if you have an appetite for sashimi while browsing the night market you might want to stop here and give it a try! 

5. Chicken Rolls

Its not common that I say that I don't like something in Taiwan, but I have to say that I'm not a big fan of these chicken rolls. They are long, soggy-looking and come off as extremely unhealthy as they are full of oil. A "chicken roll" (雞卷) is basically chicken meat wrapped in chicken skin (雞皮) or tofu skin (豆皮) with vegetables like asparagus, leeks or carrots inside. They look tasty when they're cooked and cut up, but when you see them sitting there they don't look as appetizing. A year or two ago these things were extremely popular and people were waiting in lines to get them all over the country. The fad it seems has died off but you can still find them in night markets all over the country. What do you think? Have you had one of these? Did you enjoy it? Let me know! 

6. Honey Glazed BBQ (蜜汁烤肉) 

These types of stalls are quite easy to find all over Taiwan. I'm not sure if they're Taiwanese in origin or not (if anyone knows, let me know) but basically they are a form of BBQ with all of the various meats, tofus and tempura being put on a revolving hook while it is roasted. All of the food is brushed with a kind of honey and as it cooks it becomes a bit sweet. When you want to order something from one of these stalls you just grab a bowl, pick up a pair of tongs and put what you want in the bowl and the boss will prepared it all for you and add some spice if you like. These stalls are pretty good for getting a large variety of foods all mixed in together and is quite cheap (yet not very healthy) if you are making it for your dinner. 


That's it for today. I'll be back later this week with the final post from the Miaokou Night Market - If you like what you've seen so far make sure to check out some of the other night markets I've covered below!  

Dianji Temple (基隆廟口奠濟宮)

Travel guides insist that if you are taking a trip to Taiwan that one of the MUSTS on any travellers itinerary should be an evening at the Keelung Miaokou Night Market (廟口夜市) which is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country.

Most people however are unaware that the name "Miaokou" (廟口) refers to a 'temple front' and that the popularity of the night market today is directly related to the importance of the temple from which the night market ultimately became an extension.

Today, whenever there is a temple celebration the festive carnival-like atmosphere brings with it countless number of visitors as well as vendors who set up shop and aim to feed the masses. If you visit ANY temple celebration in Taiwan, the vendors won't be far away and it is always easy to find something delicious. In the past this was also true of temple celebrations, but temples also tended to be more of a focal point of towns and cities and businesses always wanted to be as close as possible to a temple for both economic and superstitious reasons.

The Miaokou night market we see today is a direct result of this type of phenomenon as well as some pretty great urban planning that allowed the night market to become a permanent and very organized tourist attraction in the heart of Keelung's downtown core.

The temple that sits within the heart of the night market is named Dianji Temple (奠濟宮) and is separated from the hustle and bustle only by a giant ornate open temple gate that automatically gives the impression that the temple inside is a sight to be seen!

The temple is the largest of the 'big three temples' of Keelung (基隆三大廟) which also includes the City God Temple (城隍廟) and Ching-An Temple (慶安宮) all of which are Taoist, a short walking distance from each other as well as a short distance from the harbour showing the significance of the harbour to the early settlers of the city.

The temple was established in 1875 after a generous land donation by a wealthy local merchant and was built on the site of an older shrine to the Water God (水仙尊王). In 1923 the main shrine was completed and is dedicated to the Sage King Kaizhang (開漳聖王) otherwise known as Duke Chen (陳元光) a Hoklo (閩南) folklore hero from Fujian province in China who died in 722 and who is worshipped today by the Hoklo people for his loyalty (忠義之神) and also for his role in developing a Fujian province (福建省) in southern China (where most of Taiwan's early immigrations came from).

Main Hall 

The main hall of the temple was originally finished in 1923 but was unfortunately short lived due to allied bombing of Keelung harbour in 1940. Keelung was an important staging point for the Japanese imperial navy and the city was high easily during the American advance toward mainland Japan. Reconstruction work began on the temple in 1957 lasting until 1964. In 1998 the temple initiated a five year expansion plan to build a more impressive rear hall with several different floors.

If you visit the temple today the main shrine room is dedicated to the Sage King Kaizhang with offices to the side. Behind the main shrine is a really cool looking shrine to the Water God who is in the form of Yu the Great (大禹) an emperor from the Xia Dynasty (夏朝) who was celebrated for his knowledge of irrigation and flood control. Interestingly children who are brought up in Taiwan are very familiar with Yu the Great as they are taught rhymes and stories (大禹治水) about him in their Chinese classes to teach about wisdom, perseverance and hard work.

The second floor shrine is dedicated to Marshal Tian Du (田都元帥) another historical figure from the Tang Dynasty (唐代) whose actual name was Lei Hai-Qing (雷海青) and is important to artists, musicians and performers. It is quite common in Taiwan that Taiwanese Opera performers will pay respects to him before a big show.

As with most multi-level Taoist temples, the highest floor of the temple is dedicated to the Jade Emperor (玉皇大帝) who is the most important of all the Taoist gods and presides over heaven. Statues of the Jade Emperor always look pretty cool but I actually prefer the Taoist gods who represent the underworld like the City God or the Qingshan King whose purpose is to judge people based on their actions.

Apart from the main shrines on each floor there are also shrines in the rooms dedicated to the Goddess Mazu (天上馬祖), Master Pure-Yang (純陽祖師) otherwise known as the Tang Dynasty poet Lu Dongbin (呂洞賓), The master carpenter Lu Ban (魯班/荷葉先師), Marshal Guanyu (關聖大帝), The God of Literature (文昌大帝), The Earth God (土地公/福德正神), Star Lord Tai Sui (太歲星君) and the God of Wealth (財神) as well as other historical figures of which there are too many to name! 

One of the important things to notice at Dianji if you are a random traveller is that while the temple does feature stone carvings of dragons, phoenixes and other mystical creatures you are also able to see colourful fish, crabs and other sea life carved onto the walls. This is significant because of the importance of the temple, it's location next to the sea and pays homage to the seafaring ways of the residents of Keelung.

The temple tends to be quite busy on weekends, during festivals and also during Ghost Month when the entire city of Keelung becomes extremely busy. During the week it's quite easy to walk into the temple and be able to casually look around without crowds of people getting in your way. The important thing when you visit this temple (and any temple for that matter) is the pay close attention to the details on the walls. The Taiwanese artisans that worked to put the temple together had extreme cases of OCD and the symbolism in all of the imagery deserves a bit of your time.

I'm going to continue with blogs from Keelung over the next week or two with posts from the Miaokou night market as a continuation of my "People of the Night" series (which was put on hold for a while). This temple and the night market really are must visits if you're on a visit to Taiwan - So just jump on a train and head to Keelung to check out both!