Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺)

While doing research for my post about Taipei's most famous temple, Mengjia Longshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺). I came across an article that claimed that when the temple in Taipei was under attack during WW2, some of the statues from the temple were moved to the Daxi Longshan Temple for safekeeping.

I had immediately thought it was a bit strange because Longshan temple is one of Taiwan's most famous temples, but unlike a lot of Taoist temples, I had no idea that there were actually other branches throughout the country let alone one near where I live! 

With major Taoist and folk-religion temples, it is quite common to find temples with the same name - Temples such as the Tian-Hou (天后宮) temple, City God temple (城隍廟), and Confucius (孔廟) temples can be found in various cities throughout the country. Each temple varies a bit and usually has a place name in front which differentiates the temple from the others. For example: Taipei Confucius Temple and Hsinchu Confucius Temple are a few examples of the temples I've covered in the past that have the same name. The temple carries the same purpose, but typically vary in architecture and design. 

With a bit of research I was surprised not only to find out that there were several Longshan temple's throughout the country, but also the location of the one that I didn't know existed near my home in Daxi.  

Daxi (大溪) is a small village, but it is the home of a few famous temples as well as the popular old street which are all a short distance from each other. The Daxi Longshan temple is a bit far from all of that however and that is probably why I wasn't aware that it existed. 

The temple was originally built as "Longshan Temple" in 1868 but was destroyed a few years later by the Japanese in 1895 due to efforts by the colonial government to force Japanese culture upon the people of Taiwan. When the Japanese realized that it wasn't a very successful policy, they put a stop to it and the temple was rebuilt in the same location under a different name.

The temple was renamed Xiangyun temple (香雲俺) and stayed that way until 1981 when it was officially renamed to the Yongfu Longshan Temple (永福龍山寺) and became more commonly known as the Daxi Longshan Temple (大溪龍山寺) as you may notice on the incense urn in the photo above. 

The temple, similar to Taipei's Longshan temple in that it is dedicated to the goddess Guanyin (觀世音菩薩) and other Buddhist deities. The shrines are much smaller in scale however and the temple is actually very simple in comparison to the Taipei version.  

The temple is actually quite nice but cannot really be compared to the much older (and more popular) version. If you search for information about it online, it seems like the temple is actually most well-known for the hiking path behind it. The path takes you up a mountain and gives pretty great views of the Daxi river valley.

The mountain turns white in early spring with Tong blossoms (油桐花) which are the Hakka version of cherry blossoms. The path is popular during early spring with people travelling from all over the country to come see the blossoms. (I'll have a post about Tong Blossoms from the mountain in a few days). 

The temple is nice to stop at for a short time - There isn't very much to see, but if you want to do an easy hike you can check out the temple for a short time and then take a hike up the path on the mountain. If you're in the area, check it out. It's rarely busy and the environment around it is quite nice!

If you have any questions, comments or criticism, don't be shy: Comment below or send an email through my contact section below!


The "Wilds" of Zhongli

A few months ago my friend Alexander Synaptic, the wandering urban explorer moved to what some "professional" photographers in Taipei refer to as "the wilds of Zhongli", the city I've called home for the past decade. While living here only for a few months Alexander explored on his own and ending up taking me places and teaching me about things that I had somehow overlooked or hadn't noticed during my decade of living here.

The city has a bad reputation among expat residents of Taipei who like their Taiwanese counterparts have a tendency of speaking about other areas of the country with their special "天龍國-mentality". Zhongli has been referred to in any number of pejorative ways over the years but the most popular is calling it the "armpit" of Taiwan. This reputation stems a bit from the way people in Taipei look down on the other cities of the country and from the fact that Zhongli has always been an industrial satellite city of Taipei known for its lack of urban planning and the dullness of life here.

It was always a stereotype that irritated me, but my days of defending the city seem soon to be over and so will the inane comments of a few people who rarely leave the safety of their MRT!

Fast forward a decade and it's easy to see that some pretty awesome urban development work has been undertaken by the county government and an extremely successful long-term beautification plan has had a pretty great effect on improving the lives of the people living here.

Taoyuan county has become much more prosperous over the years and a lot of effort has been spent on the "Taoyuan Metropolis" project making the newly amalgamated supercity a green one that is attractive to residents of Taipei who want to live close to the city, but avoid the sky-rocketing price of real-estate there. 

As things started to improve around here I slowly forgot about the old stuff, the stuff that made Zhongli what it was for so long and helped to earn its reputation among the Taipei elite. Having Alexander live here reminded me a bit of the days of when I first arrived and was more of an explorer. Things that I had become accustomed to became normal and unattractive suddenly became interesting again and I have to thank him for that! 

A few weeks ago Alexander happened to be taking a train back up to Taipei from the south of the country and decided to stop into Zhongli for some of his favourite beef noodles (Zhongli is the birthplace of the dish), a beer and a chat before heading back on the last train to Taipei. Just after getting off the train and meeting up he looked at me and said: Hey wanna see something cool?

Alexander's kind of "cool" is much different than most and it quickly found us walking on the rooftop of the Caishen Building (財神大樓), one of the biggest eyesores in the city and is what will probably (unfortunately) become your first impression of the city if you travel by train. Residents of the city have been waving their fists in its general direction for years as it is one of the reminders of what the downtown core of the city used to be like. 

I never would have imagined that the ugliest building in the city happened to overlook the Zhongli Train Station (中壢車站) and the rotary in front of it. The train station is basically the center of town and is part of a transportation hub that will soon include the High Speed Rail, Airport Link and Taoyuan MRT as well as having a large bus terminal pretty much next door. 

The photos I'm posting today are all long exposure shots of that area and I have to thank Alexander for showing me this great view in the first place!

I've been pretty sarcastic in my wording throughout this post - but after a decade of living here and calling this city home, I feel like I've earned the right to be sarcastic, especially from the never ending jeers I receive from people who don't really know much about the area.

The local government has done a great job in improving the city and coming from someone who studied development in university, I hope that they continue along this path making this area a much greener and more beautiful place to live! 


Sheng-Hsing Train Station (勝興車站)

Sheng-Hsing Train Station (勝興車站) is a historical train station on Taiwan's old western rail line and even though it is not currently in operation, it has become a nostalgic tourist destination for people in Taiwan and has the ability to attract crowds just as large as many of Taiwan's "old streets" on weekends and holidays. The train station and the street around it are typical part of a much larger daytime which includes other destinations in Miaoli and most certainly the Long-Teng bridge which is a short drive down the road from the station.

The station was built in 1906 during the Japanese colonial period and one of the main reasons it has been able to attract so many tourists is because of Taiwan's close relationship with Japan and the Taiwanese people's admiration for Japanese culture. There are of course hard feelings about the treatment of Taiwanese people during the occupation, but for a lot of Taiwanese, especially those who weren't part of the Nationalist retreat from China, an affinity with Japan is part of their identity and tourist attractions like this train station are a reminder of the past when things were much different on this island.

The train station is basically a small house that was built in the Japanese "Tiger Tooth" style (虎牙式設計) which means that it was constructed entirely of wood and without a single nail or glue to fit different pieces of wood together. A similar style of construction is also quite popular in Japanese and Taiwanese temples where wooden pieces are fitted together without the usage of nails or glue in an attempt to ward off evil spirits. This style of design is particularly special at this train station because it is one of the few remaining structures remaining in Taiwan that has this style of construction and is left standing after the devastating earthquakes that ravaged Taiwan over the past century.

While the station was still in operation, it was situated at the highest point (402 meters above sea level) on the Old Western Railway Trunk Line (舊山線) which was a problematic line for the Taiwan Railway Authority as it slowed down the trains travelling south and was also unsuitable for more modern styles of trains. When the new western line was completed, it rendered Sheng-Hsing station obsolete and on September 23, 1998 the last train - Southbound No. 167 stopped at the station at 9:10pm and marked the end of service on the old line.

A year after the station was put out of operation, the Miaoli County Government designated Sheng-Hsing station as a county-level historic site and started to market it to people as a tourist destination. In Taiwan, an old train station is rarely enough to attract crowds, so the government promoted an "old street" atmosphere near the station promoting local Hakka culture and cuisine making the small village more attractive to villagers.

Store front. 

Today you will find several Hakka restaurants and vendors selling Hakka Lei-Cha (客家擂茶) as well as Hakka sticky rice (客家麻糬) and other popular dishes. There are also stores set up along the sides of the road selling Hakka-inspired souvenirs and gifts.

In the past, the station would have separated the village and the mountain road running through it from the train tracks - Today the entire area is open and tourists can go back and forth as they please playing on the train tracks and walking through the almost 1km-long tunnel between 2 and Yutengping stations (雨藤坪車站) as well as sampling some of the Hakka cuisine on the street in front of the station.

If you visit the station you don't need a whole lot of time to see everything and if you are making plans to visit the area, make sure to include other areas in your plans as well. Much like the Long-Teng Bridge, this area is quite popular with Taiwanese tourists. There is really a whole lot to do here, but its always a great idea to stop into any of the Hakka restaurants lining the street to have a traditional dish or two. 

The station and the area around it aren't enough for a day-trip so if you're coming from Taipei or further south, you'll want to make the most of your time and check out some other stuff in the area as well. Miaoli has some pretty cool attractions so make sure to do a little research before ending up in the mountains where internet connectivity isn't the best!

For more about this train station and the old street next to it check out this excellent blog post from Taiwan in Cycles:  Thinking About Sheng-Hsing Station

If you have any questions, comments or corrections, don't be shy, comment below and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!