Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋)

It has been a busy few days on my site with that little rant I went on - I try not to do rants that often, but there is no denying the insane amount of traffic some good points and some negativity bring. I have a bunch of blog posts that have been sitting and waiting to be posted for a few months now, so I figured I'd catch up with a few smaller ones for the next week or two. 

When you travel there will always be popular tourist attractions that are more or less more interesting than others. The tourist experience really depends on your personal interests or your cultural background and also your idea of what is exotic. For me, I love mountains, landscape and nature. I'm less inclined to be interested in a museum or a place where I have to stand around for too long.  

I've found that if I'm traveling with Taiwanese friends there are going to be tourist attractions that are high on their list to visit whereas I'd likely have something completely different in mind, especially when it comes to time constraints on a trip. This obviously goes both ways and the things that I want to see are likely not as interesting to them. When travelling with friends, you have to find a balance and you will have to compromise from time to time. 

This time, I compromised.

The Long-Teng Bridge (龍騰斷橋) in Miaoli county's Sanyi Township (三義鄉) might be about as uninteresting as it gets for me - but that doesn't mean that it isn't a huge tourist attraction. I've known about the bridge for years and the area near it is oddly always full of people. On weekends the small mountain road is jam packed with people who have travelled from all over Taiwan to visit and of course take selfies and check in with the famous bridge in the background. 

The bridge has become a major tourist attraction and with the neighbouring Hakka village of Sheng-Hsing (勝興村) and its popular train station (勝興車站) makes for a popular day-trip for people wanting to escape the city and get some fresh air. 

The original red brick bridge was built in 1906 during the Japanese colonial period and connected passengers on the old mountain rail line (舊山線) between Sheng-Hsing (勝興車站) and Yutengping (雨藤坪車站) stations. The old line suspended operation in 1998 in favour of the new Western Line - which was faster, more efficient and did not have to waste so much power climbing the steep hill between Miaoli and Taichung. Today the old rail line still exists and on special occasions the government will run a steam engine through it for the delight of tourists - the line however is effectively shut down allowing for the train tracks to become a popular hiking trail.

Nature cares not for broken bridges. 

The fate of the original red brick Long-Teng bridge was sealed much earlier than the old Western Line during the magnitude 7.1 Hsinchu-Taichung earthquake (1935年新竹-台中地震) in 1935 and rocked the western coast of the country and had an epicentre in nearby Sanyi. The bridge was damaged beyond repair and put a lot of strain on north-south transportation making the Coast Line (海線) the only way passengers could travel between Hsinchu and Taichung. This meant that a new bridge had to be constructed as quickly as possible.

A new iron bridge was completed in 1938 and was positioned 80 meters away from the original brick version which was left standing and ironically completely disregarded until 1990 when yet another devastating earthquake shook the country.

When the infamous 921 earthquake (921大地震) rocked the country it further damaged the bridge and the Miaoli county government decided that it was time to dedicate the bridge to the memory of these devastating quakes as well as making an effort to put it on a list of Taiwan's Cultural Heritage Assets. I mentioned that it was ironic earlier because the bridge just kind of sat there for decades and not many people paid attention to it. 

If it weren't for the 921 earthquake further damaging this bridge, it likely wouldn't have achieved the popularity that it has today. This is just another example of a strange phenomenon in Taiwan that my friend Alexander describes as "disaster tourism".

The area is most popular around the time of the year when the Hakka Tung Blossoms (客家桐花) are in bloom which means if you visit between the end of March up until May you will at least be treated to an experience with the beautiful white blossoms in the trees. As I mentioned earlier the bridge alone isn't enough for a day-trip to the area, so most people will include it as part of a much larger day with visits to other locations.

As for me, a few shots were taken, a few plaques were read and while my Taiwanese friends were having their fun I took a short hike down to the river to see if there was actually anything else worth taking a photo of. I can't say that I recommend this place, but if you're in the area you might want to stop in and have a look. You don't need much time to bridge and if you go on the weekend you might be lucky to run into some vendors selling a rare black version of stinky tofu which is quite delicious!


Gallery / Flickr (High Res Photos) 

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖)

A week or so ago my friends and I went on an all-expense paid day-trip to Miaoli which had us relaxing and chatting on a nice comfy bus all the way to Nanzhuang village (南庄) - a popular tourist spot with a Hakka old street and the ancestral home of the Say-Siyat indigenous people (賽夏族)

We started the day learning about Say-Siyat culture at a museum dedicated to the tribe and their history, then enjoyed some time at a mountain-top lake before heading down to have dinner at a Hakka restaurant and then making our way to the Nanzhuang Old Street. Today's post won't be about all of that though, it's just going to be a short one about Hsiang-Tian Lake, one of the destinations on the trip.

Hsiang-Tian Lake (向天湖) which is also known in Hakka as "Yang-Tian Lake" (仰天湖) is a small lake on a mountain at an elevation of 738 meters above sea level. The rare mountain-top lake is surrounded by mountains and due to its elevation is often foggy or misty which makes it appear mysterious. The water in the lake has an odd green tint to it and the colour of the trees surrounding the lake change with the seasons. The lake is thus a popular tourist site and because of that coffee shops, small restaurants and stalls have been set up around it to cater to tourists.

Hundreds of years ago the lake was actually much larger and deeper than it is today - however due to some erosion that took place on the Great East River (大東河) tributary, some of the water receded and land appeared where there was originally water. This new land became an important area for the indigenous tribe to make their homes due to the fertile soil and next to a water source. 

Today, the lake continues to be an important place for the Say-Siyat people and is home to their largest tribe. There is a museum near the lake that chronicles the history of the indigenous group and their culture. Near the lake and the museum there is a large field that holds a festival every two years (as well as a larger one every ten years) called the "Bas-ta'ai" or "The Sacrifice to the Short Spirits" (矮靈祭) which is a three-day festival that has a lot of activities, great food and traditional dancing to honour the "short spirits" at the end of the yearly harvest.

The photos of the lake that I'm posting today were taken with the idea that I would make an attempt to honour what the Sai-Siyat people respected it for - the reflection of the sky. Most of the shots are 10-20 second exposures taken with a wide-angle lens and they capture pretty much the entire width of the lake with the reflection of the mountains and trees near behind it.

The beauty of the lake depends on the season you visit and it seems like most people are greeted by fog and mist. I was lucky on the day we went to have a somewhat clear day, but I was greedy and hoping for a day with blue skies! I hope that when the next "Bas-ta'ai" festival happens that I can visit again and that the weather will be better!

If you have any questions or comments don't be afraid to comment below.

Abandoned Kiln (磚窯 - 歷史遺跡)

This post is a result of a combination of some long-time curiosity and my friend Alexander Synaptic rubbing off on me. I'm not very experienced with urban exploration, but hanging out with Alexander and listening to his stories has sparked an interest in the hobby. I've found that the more I learn about urban exploration the more I discover that the willingness to go into places (where you might not always be welcome) is similar to the courage that a successful street photographer needs.

It isn't easy walking up to a complete stranger on the street and taking their photo - Likewise with urban exploration you have to be willing to put yourself in a situation that brings you into unknown places and sometimes places where no one really expects you to be walking around. There is a level of respect however that both a street photographer and an urban explorer share with their subjects and that respect is typically shown with the stories that are told in the aftermath.

With street photography I feel like I've found that courage and even through I try to be stealth-like most of the time, I often still walk up to people, smile and point my camera in their face when something strikes me as interesting. Urban exploration on the other hand isn't as easy and in most cases with the kind of abandoned places people are quite suspicious as to why you want to check things out.

Today's exploration is an abandoned brick kiln (磚窯) found on a small road between Taoyuan's Longtan village (龍潭鄉) and Hsinchu's Guanxi township (關西鎮). I have been driving down this road for years (on my drives to Neiwan) and have noticed this place each and every time I have passed by, but until now never really thought to jump over the little fence in front of it and check it out.

Kilns of this variety were quite common in Taiwan several decades ago and helped to fuel the rapid development of the nation. If you're not sure what a kiln is, they are basically a thermally enclosed room that act like an oven. The insulation in the room helps to create temperatures that are sufficient for hardening or drying of clay objects and making them into bricks, pottery, tiles and other ceramics.

Despite a few wood-fire kilns of this variety still being active in the country (some just for show) most have been abandoned or replaced with more environmentally friendly versions which use natural gas and are able to produce bricks on a much larger scale.

There isn't much information available online about these particular kilns of which there are three. I've spent a lot of time searching the web, searching archives and searching PTT (a popular forum used in Taiwan) to figure out when they were closed, how long they were in operation and who owned them but not much of that information is available online, so I can't really tell you much. What info I could find online however is that the soil in the area is naturally sulphurous and was thus ideal for the brick-making process. This is why you can see three kilns in such a relatively close area. 

The kilns are from separate companies named "Pacific" (太平洋), "Jianfu" (建富) and "Sanhe" (三合) which built them around year 60 on the Republic of China calendar (1971). They were built as Hoffmann Kilns (霍夫曼窯), a style introduced to Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period and are more popularly referred to here as "Bagua Kilns" (八卦窯) due to their resemblance to the Taoist "Eight Trigram" (八卦).  Hoffmann kilns typically have a long tunnel, a main furnace and several different pits to make the bricks. The roof trusses make it seem like an octagon and that is probably where the resemblance comes up. 

Huatan Hoffmann Kiln (花壇八卦窯) in Changhua, Taiwan (彰化) 

These particular kilns were set up in that area when the Taoyuan sewer system was being constructed and were quite popular because the earth in that area was especially suited for brick-making. Information as to when the kilns were decommissioned or how long they were in operation isn't available online so it is hard to say with any degree of certainty how long they have been abandoned. 

Reference: 磚窯(歷史遺跡) 仁安里第六鄰一帶的土質屬黃棕土,非常適合製造磚瓦。民國六十 年代初,有太平洋、建富、三合等多家磚窯。其中三合磚窯原是由內湖 搬至仁安里,這些窯屬於所謂的「八卦窯」,專門生產建築用的紅磚。所 謂「八卦窯」是一種類似隧道一般的窯洞,所不同的是窯內牆壁修飾成 八個斜坡面,看上去是八角型。他的最大特點是可以循環燒製磚胚,所 以產量比傳統的窯大很多。(Link /Pg. 47)

What I can tell you is what is still surviving today - The kilns sit alone in a large empty field near a Taipower generating station (龍潭變電所) off in the distance on one side and the popular Leofoo Village Amusement Park (六福村) on the other. There are three different kilns which were run by three different companies - one is close to the road, another is a short walk through a field while the third is a short drive from those two. There is also an abandoned building in between them that looks like it could have been a former office building. Unfortunately nothing was left inside the building to identify what actually went on while the place was in business.

The kilns are somewhat similar in the fact that they have very tall (and well preserved) smoke stacks that rise out of what (from a distance) looks like a large mound of dirt. When you get close enough you'll notice that those mounds of dirt have been overrun with shrubbery and that in certain areas there are bricks popping out. There are several entrances to each of the kilns and on the inside there are several different furnace areas where they would have made the bricks. The inside of the kiln closest to the road seems like it has become a popular place for locals to dump some of their garbage making it a bit difficult and uninteresting to shoot.

Like a lot of abandoned places there are guard dogs on the grounds and they kind of prevented me from exploring too much. A group of five or six fully grown Taiwanese dogs aren't the type you want to mess with especially when you're on their territory. The funny thing about the dogs though is that when they had no idea I was around I saw them playing in the tall grass with each other and they looked like they were having a great time pouncing around. 

As far as urban exploration goes, I'm not sure how this rates compared to what Alexander does, but there very little information available about these kilns available online in Chinese and none in English, so this is my contribution to their memory. The field they are in is really large by Taiwanese standards and it seems like a perfect location to build some dreary high rise apartments. I'm not sure how much longer they'll be around so if you're in the area check them out!

If you know any further information about the kilns or have any questions or comments, don't be shy. Comment below or contact me through the 'contact' section below.