Westminster Abbey

For around the last thousand years or so, if you were to become the King or Queen of England, there is only one place where would you go for your coronation, your wedding or ultimately your funeral.

Westminster Abbey is arguably the most important place of worship in Britain and if you’ve had the chance to visit this masterpiece of gothic architecture, you’re sure to realize why. 

The Abbey is ideally located in the Westminster Borough of London, which is also home to the Houses of Parliament, 10 Downing Street, St. James Palace and Buckingham Palace as well as a number of other historic and popular tourist spots. 

The church has a history that dates back to AD 960 when it was originally founded, but what we see today is the result of a reconstruction effort that took place between 1245 and 1517 which makes it about over 700 years old. 

Today the Gothic-style cathedral is not only a fully functioning church and a place that performs important duties for the royal family, but also a major tourist destination and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

When I write about tourist destinations here in Asia, its often the case that there is very little in terms of English language resources available, so I need to spend a lot of time translating any information that I think is relevant.

For the places I visited on my Euro-Trip however I’ll be able to depart from my usual blogging style as they have already been written about extensively. I feel like it would be pointless for me to sit here and relay all of that information to you when it is so readily available elsewhere.

So what I aim to do with this blog post and the other Europe blog posts to follow is to more or less share some of the photos I took, give some impressions of the tour and also some practical information about visiting. 

To start, I guess I’d like to say visiting Westminster Abbey was a bit of a ‘religious experience’ for myself. Probably not in the way you are thinking though. 

Westminster Abbey is not only the burial place for British royalty, but also for others who were of significance in English history. In total, the Abbey commemorates (and is the burial place for) over 3,300 individuals who played an important role in English and world history. 

Despite knowing the historical and architectural significance of Westminster Abbey, my main motivation for visiting wasn’t to check out the graves of dead Kings and Queens, nor was it for anything to do with Christianity - it was to enjoy some amazing architecture and to visit the grave of Charles Darwin, both of which I came away quite content with.   

It may seem a bit ironic to have an agnostic superhero like Charles Darwin buried in such an important religious building, especially when you consider that his research and discoveries have invalidated quite a few of Christianity’s claims.

Darwin however was an important figure in English history and in death was given the respect that the people of the time thought he deserved.

While I won’t go into a lot of detail about the history or architecture of the Abbey, I think there are a few interesting historic facts about it that can be mentioned - most of which I don’t think are often mentioned in other articles:

  1. What’s in a name? “Westminster Abbey” isn’t actually the official title of the church which is the “Collegiate Church of St. Peter at Westminter”. Coincidentally it isn’t even an “Abbey”, as it holds a special designation known as a “Royal Peculiar” meaning that it is a church responsible directly to the sovereign. 
  2. As mentioned above, since 1066, the church has been the place to go if you are to be coronated as the King or Queen of England. In that time 39 coronations have taken place at the Abbey with the most recent one in 1953 for Queen Elizabeth II.
  3. Over 3,300 people have been buried or commemorated in the church including seventeen monarchs as well as notable figures like Charles Darwin, Charles Dickens and Isaac Newton. If you are interested in literature don’t forget to stop by “poets corner” which commemorates many of England’s greatest literary figures.
  4. A point of confusion is whether or not Westminster Abbey is Catholic or not. First I’ll mention that there is also a “Westminster Cathedral” which is Catholic, but it is not the same location as “Westminster Abbey”. The Abbey of course was originally run by Benedictine Monks and under the sphere of Rome’s influence, but that all ended during the “English Reformation”  when King Henry VIII decided he wanted to get a divorce and for better or worse changed the course of world history. Westminster Abbey has been a part of the Anglican Church since the early 16th Century. 
  5. Translation work for the King James Bible (KJV) was undertaken by committees of scholars at the University of Oxford, University of Cambridge and at Westminster. Westminster in particular was responsible for the books of Genesis - 2 Kings in the Old Testament and the Epistles of St. Paul in the New Testament. While non-Christians will argue it was just a translation of the bible, the translation is considered by others as one of the most important books in English culture. 
  6. If you know me, you know I like old doors - Westminster Abbey is home to what is known as the ‘oldest door in the realm’, an oak door that connects the cloister to the abbey and carbon dating has its origins dated back to approximately 1050AD. Its also really short. 
  7. A Posthumous Execution? England was a bit of a barbaric place back in the day, so when the monarchy was restored after the English Civil War, the body of Oliver Cromwell was dug up from the Abbey and given a ‘ceremonial execution’ with his head being placed on a pike in a public square elsewhere.  
  8. Westminster Abbey is home to the UK version of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The tombs, which have been erected in many nations around the world as a memorial for a nations war-dead and have become sacred places. The tomb in my native Canada is an especially beautiful version, but here in Westminster, the level of respect given to this tomb is so high that not even a member of the royal family can walk across it. It is only fitting that this tomb is found in Westminster Abbey.
  9. While it’s unfortunate that you can’t take photos inside Westminster Abbey, there are a few places on the grounds where photos are permitted. The Chapter House for example is one of those places where those with cameras must visit. The Chapter House, which was constructed in 1250 for the daily meetings of the monks who resided at the Abbey later became a meeting place for the King’s Council and the Commons, the predecessor of today’s Parliament. The architecture of the octagonal chamber is spectacular and makes for for pretty nice photos!

Now lets get into some of my thoughts and tips for others for visiting:

It’s a Busy Place

The first thing you have to know about visiting the Abbey, whether its off-season or not is that an estimated two million tourists visit each year. You are going to be visiting the cathedral with hundreds, if not thousands of others who may be travelling individually or travelling in large tour groups. With that amount of people it can be a bit difficult to really enjoy all the fine details of the historic church before you get pushed on to the next stop. 

Security Checks

Something you’ll have to get used to while travelling through Europe are the constant Security Checks that you’ll have to go through before gaining access to historic sites. The Security Checks are a lot like what you have to go through at the airport, so my advice for getting through as quickly as possible is to not bring very much with you and to refrain from wearing boots or belts with metal inside as you’ll have to take them off. If you’re a photographer like myself, do not bother bringing a tripod or monopod (of any size) as they will likely ask you to check it in which can be time consuming. 

No Photos

One rule that irritates me when visiting tourist sites, especially those where you pay a hefty admission fee is the “No Photos” rule. This is strictly enforced at Westminster Abbey by the security personnel who walk around as well as the clergy who are also on the floor performing various tasks. It’s obvious that they can’t stop everyone from taking photos or the occasional selfie, so when you visit you’ll see guests sneaking some photos which may give you a bit of courage to take one of your own - If you get caught however, like I did, you’ll get a stern “NO PHOTOS” warning which can be a bit embarrassing.   

Tickets

If you are planning your trip in advance, the best thing you can do when visiting Westminster Abbey, and any major tourist destination in Europe, is pre-purchase your tickets. If you visit the Abbey’s website, you can buy your tickets online and then either print out the web-ticket that they send you or save the PDF file on your smart phone. This will ultimately save visitors quite a bit of time, especially during the summer months when the queues to get in can be quite long. If skipping the ticket line is not enough of an incentive to buy your tickets online, you can also save a bit of money as the online tickets are £20 while on site purchases are £22 for adults. 

Check the Westminster Abbey website for Children, Family and Group rates. 

Audio-Guides

Its not really neccessary to join a tour group or have a guide while visiting the Abbey, but it is important that you pick up an audio-guide at the entrance and stop to listen to all of the important information that is presented. Personally I tend to frown upon tourists who hold audio-guides and stand in the same place for long periods of time, but when it comes to Westminster Abbey, there is just too much information and way too much going on in terms of detail that you may ultimately regret not listening intently. If you don’t get an audio-guide you will definitely miss out on quite a few important historic details. You may also want to consider downloading the free Westminster Abbey Audio Tour App (iOS / Android) before leaving home so that you can easily use your smartphone. 

Audio-Guides are included in the price of admission and are available in over a dozen languages. 

Plan For a Full Day 

Depending on how much time you have in London, you’ll probably want to full day of exciting activities. The important thing to remember though is that a visit to Westminster Abbey is going to take the better part of an afternoon. There is just way too much to see and learn, so don’t think that you’re going to be able to walk in and walk out in an hour, that would be a complete waste. 

We started our day with a visit to Buckingham Palace to see the changing of the guard ceremony in the morning, then stopped for some breakfast (Tea and Crumpets!!) before arriving at Westminster Abbey around 1:00pm. We probably spent the better part of three hours inside the church before moving on to check out the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben (which are a short two-three minute walk away from the exit.) We then walked from there to Trafalgar Square, where I wanted to get some photos of the beautiful Canadian embassy, then had some dinner and finally over to the river to check out the night view of the London Eye. 

When in London there are few tourist spots as significant as Westminster Abbey - It’s one of those must-visit locations and like close-by Buckingham Palace there are always throngs of tourists visiting. Still, a visit to Westminster Abbey is a rewarded experience for any traveller which offers an interesting look into the last several hundred years of British history.

The purpose of this blog post was to just share a few of the photos I took at Westminster Abbey - There is already more than enough information online about this historic location. If you are reading however, I think some of the tips listed above should help out if you plan on visiting! 


Trinity College Library

The first stop on my month-long Euro-trip was in Dublin, Ireland and even though I didn’t have a lot of time to spend on the Emerald Isle, there were a few places that I figured I had to visit. The first of those of course was an Irish pub for some Irish food and obviously a fresh pint of Guinness before checking out a few different locations that the city had to offer.

I had originally planned to visit the Guinness Brewery for a tour but while randomly walking around the Trinity College campus I saw a long line of people and got curious as to what was going on. I’ve been somewhat conditioned over my years of living in Taiwan to always look to find out why people are lining up, because there is usually something tasty involved - so I walked up to the line and saw that they were all lined up to get into the college library.

I figured it was a bit strange for people to line up for a library, but then I noticed a sign that said the library was home to none other than the ‘Book of Kells’ which pretty much cemented the fact that on my last day in the country, I would be visiting the library and not going on a brewery tour.

Growing up, the Book of Kells was always something that was interesting to me and I have fond memories that go back as far as when I first started to learn how to write in school with our teacher giving us handouts that were designed using the art from the book.

Having the chance to see the over twelve-hundred year old book in person was a chance that I couldn’t pass up, so I changed my plans and decided to go take a tour of the Book of Kells exhibition instead - little did I know that I was in store for a much bigger surprise later.

Trinity College Library

Students at Trinity College

The Trinity College Library serves both Trinity College and the University of Dublin and is the largest library in Ireland. The library is not only the permanent home to the Book of Kells but also has over six million volumes and is the only library in Ireland to have ‘legal depository rights’ making it entitled to receive a copy (upon request) of all works published in the United Kingdom.

The library dates back to the founding of Trinity College in 1592 and today consists of several buildings, four of which are on the Trinity College campus. The original library, known today as the “Old Library” is one of the largest buildings on the campus and is well-known for what is known as the “Long Room” where not only thousands of rare volumes are on display but also where tourists can view the Brian Boru Harp, the national symbol of Ireland as well as one of the last remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

The Book of Kells

Liberty Square.

The Book of Kells (Codex Cenannensis) is an over twelve-hundred year old masterpiece of western calligraphy and art that is thought to have been created somewhere in either Scotland or Ireland and is considered to be medieval Europe’s greatest treasure.

To explain it simply, it is an illustrated version of the four Gospels of the New Testament that masterfully combine Christian iconography with Celtic knots, mythical creatures, humans and animals which together produce a text that is said to glorify the life of Jesus Christ and make his message clear and easy to understand.

There is debate about where and when the Book of Kells was created, but most scholars agree that it was created sometime around the year 800AD. Some argue that it was crafted in part on the Scottish island of Iona before being brought to the Monastery of Kells in Ireland by Viking raiders, while others argue that it was completed in Iona before being taken to Ireland.

What we do know is that the manuscript consists of 340 folios bound in four volumes and was crafted on high quality calf vellum (calfskin parchment). The book gets its name from the former Abbey of Kells which was its home for centuries before being re-homed for safekeeping at Dublin’s Trinity College where it has been kept since 1661.

The Book of Kells has been on display at Trinity College since the early 19th Century and attracts over half a million visitors every year.

Unfortunately I can’t provide any photos of the exhibition at the library due to the fact that photography is prohibited and all images of the book are property of Trinity College. If you want to know more about the Book of Kells be sure to check out the College’s Digital Collection where you can view high-res photos of each of the pages.

The Long Room

As I mentioned above, my visit to the Trinity College Library wasn’t actually a part of my original itinerary but it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my trip to the country and what is known as the “Long Room” of the library turned out to be the icing on the cake. 

Truthfully, I had no idea that the Long Room was even a part of the tour - When we bought our admission tickets, we walked directly into the Book of Kells exhibition which was beautifully set up and gave the right amount of information about the history of the books and how they were created and preserved. After a few rooms full of interactive exhibits we got to walk into the room where the books were actually on display.

The display room where you can view the Book of Kells is what I had originally assumed was the end of the tour, so after queuing up for a few minutes to see the books I was getting ready to head to the exit and was thinking about what to eat for lunch.

To my surprise however the only way out led up a set of stairs which we followed and were eventually led into a large open room that was jaw-dropping beautiful. 

The Long Room

The room, which has become known as the “Long Room” is a 65 meter long chamber designed with beautifully coloured stained wooden beams and consists of shelves of books so tall that each stack has a ladder available to allow for university scholars to get access to the books they need.

The building that houses the library was constructed between 1712 and 1732 and is today home to over 200,000 of the library’s oldest collection of books. The library, which was designed by famed Irish architect Thomas Burgh once towered over the university and the rest of Dublin with the Long Room being designed as the main attraction for what later become known as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world.

When Trinity College was given legal depository status, the library had to be expanded upon to make room for all the new volumes which were being added to the collection. The original design had a high flat ceiling which had to be remodeled not only to allow for the height of the room to be expanded upon, but also to take into consideration the structural integrity of the building as the weight of the books housed inside was quickly becoming too great for the building to handle.

The redesign which took place between 1858 and 1860 converted the original flat ceiling to one that had a ‘barrel-vault design’, which allowed for additional supports to run from the floor to the ceiling along the edge of the book stacks. With this design, each of the aisles became instrumental in maintaining the structural integrity of the room while also making the long room look somewhat like a cathedral devoted to scholarly study.

Today the Long Room is a bibliophiles wet dream with old books from floor to ceiling with old ladders, beautiful spiral staircases and marble busts that meet you at the entrance of every stack. The busts are designed in the likeness of not only important historical figures in Irish history but also philosophers, inventors and authors such as Aristotle, Socrates, Newton and Shakespeare.

Socrates.

Although the major attraction for most people who visit the library is the Book of Kells exhibit, you’re also able to find on display one of the last remaining copies The ’1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic’ as well as the ‘Brian Boru Harp’ which is one of the oldest of its kind in Ireland and has become a national symbol for the Irish people with its image appearing on the Irish Coat of Arms, the cover of Irish passports and on Irish Euro coins among others.

Visiting the Long Room turned out to be one of the best parts of my trip to Dublin and was ultimately something that was completely unexpected. Even though visitors are prohibited from taking photos in the Book of Kells exhibition area, its worthwhile to bring your camera with you when you get to the Long Room as its one of those places where you’ll definitely want to get a few photos.

When you visit Europe, you’ll find that the usage of tripods is prohibited in a lot of areas and for me that is quite unfortunate because taking hand-held photos in dark rooms like this can be a bit challenging, but in the end I was quite content with the photos that I was able to get and the experience was one that I would suggest that everyone visiting Dublin makes sure to enjoy.

Getting There

The Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells exhibition is open to the public seven days a week with hours varying by the season. It is generally open between 9:00am and 5:00pm daily with an admission price of €11-14 per person with family and group rates available.

Be sure to check out the website for more details before your visit. 

 

The Trinity College Campus is in downtown Dublin and is easily accessible from the city centre. If you are relying on public transportation, there are dozens of buses that will take you to campus. I suggest using the Dublin Bus website or downloading the free app to figure out which route is best for you based on where you are travelling from. Here is a list of buses and bus stops in the area around the college. The DART stations of Pearse Street, Tara Street and Connolly Street are also a short walk away.


St. Patrick's Cathedral

When you think of Ireland, I suppose what comes to mind quickest are the things the country is most well known for: The colour green, leprechauns, Guinness and St. Patrick's Day! 

Clearly though, there is much more to Ireland than any of these things and the people of the country are a proud bunch despite living under difficult conditions with political, economic and religious turmoil constantly reading its ugly head. The hardships that have been endured by the Irish people over time are often personified by one of Irish history’s most well-known figures, Saint Patrick who in spite of his own personal suffering was said to remain a humble, gentle man who was totally devoted to god and to improving the lives of the Irish people.

Today, St. Patrick’s Day is a holiday that is celebrated all around the world, thanks in to the influence of the Irish diaspora. For most, March 17th might just be a day to wear green clothes and drink copious amounts of green beer but to the Irish, it is a day to celebrate their cultural identity, their religion, their language and more recently the economic successes of the Irish Republic which is helping to develop the small island nation.

As a bit of a treat for this years St. Patrick’s Day, I’m going to be posting photos not of people getting drunk and celebrating the holiday, but of the beautiful St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin. The eight-hundred year old cathedral which is dedicated to Ireland’s Patron Saint and happens to be one of those 'must visit' places if you find yourself in Dublin. 

St. Patrick 

Even though St. Patrick’s Day or “Lá Fhéile Pádraig” has become an important holiday celebrated all over the world, its important to remember that the man himself, Saint Patrick who is the Patron Saint of Ireland was not a leprechaun, nor did he walk around wearing green with a pot of gold in his arms - He was actually an important figure in Irish history and is considered the founding father of Christianity in Ireland.

Saint Patrick, or Saint Pātricius is thought to have been born with the common name "Maewyn Succat" in Roman Britain sometime in the 5th Century. The history of his life is a bit fuzzy and it is difficult to differentiate historical fact from legend, but it is widely believed that he was kidnapped and brought to Ireland as a slave at about the age of sixteen where he worked as a shepherd. Even though Ireland was a land of Druids and Pagans at that time, he turned to God and became a Christian while living in captivity. After working for about six years as a slave he was able to escape back to his home (believed to be in Wales) where he rejoined his family.

Legend has it that a few years after his return he had a vision in which he saw a man carrying many letters, which were titled: “The Voice of the Irish People” that requested him to return to Ireland as a servant of god. The vision prompted him to enter the priesthood where he studied for many years in France under the tutelage of St. Germanus, who later ordained Patrick as a Bishop and sent him on a mission to spread the gospel in Ireland.

Patrick is thought to have arrived in Ireland on March 25th, 433 AD and for the next forty years spent his time performing miracles, spreading the word of god, building churches and in his free time banishing snakes from the Island - all the while living in squalor and enduring a consider amount of personal suffering.

Even though St. Patrick lived over 1500 years ago, it isn’t difficult to trace his steps in Ireland today where there are thousands of sites that claim a connection to the historic figure.

Most notably you can visit the Rock of Cashel, St. Patricks Well, The Hill of Slane, Croagh Patrick or Saul Church where the Saint founded his first church and is said to be buried.

Apart from historic sites where Saint Patrick himself travelled, there are a number of churches and cathedrals in the Republic of Ireland as well as in Northern Ireland which are dedicated to the Patron Saint with one of the most important being that of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin.

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral (Ard-Eaglais Naomh Pádraig)

The historic Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in Ireland’s capital city of Dublin dates back to the year 1191 and is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland as well as the largest church in Ireland with its 43 meter tall spire. Today it is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Ireland as well as a popular tourist attraction for people who want to learn about Irish history and culture.

The grounds of St. Patrick’s Cathedral are thought to be the earliest Christian site in Ireland where in the 5th century Saint Patrick baptized converts with water from a well on site but despite some archaeological evidence there is little proof to actually confirm whether or not this is actually true.

When the Normans arrived in Ireland, bringing with them new construction techniques, Archbishop John Comyn made the decision to raise the status of Saint Patrick’s to a cathedral and in 1191 started construction on the building that we see today - replacing the original wooden church that was there. 

The decision to construct a cathedral caused some territorial issues for the small city of Dublin due to the fact that there was no precedence for a city of its size to have more than one cathedral. This caused a bit of friction between the nearby Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patricks which had to endure a period of conflict before signing the ‘Pacis Composito’ agreement in 1300 which clearly defined their roles and acknowledged their shared status.

Even though St. Patrick’s Cathedral is not the seat for the Archbishop of Dublin, it has been designated the national cathedral for the whole of Ireland since 1870 with chapter members from the twelve regional dioceses of the Church of Ireland. Today it serves as the location for state funerals, public ceremonies and memorial days as well as university graduation ceremonies.

Floor Plan of the Cathedral (Wikipedia Commons)

Floor Plan of the Cathedral (Wikipedia Commons)

Like a lot of European cathedrals, the cathedral was designed in “cruciform” shape meaning that the layout was in the form of a cross with the nave being the longest part, the choir area being the top part and the transepts being the arms on either side of the nave.

The building designed in gothic-style has evolved quite a bit over its history with the addition of the Lady Chapel (behind the choir area) and having to undergo several periods of reconstruction and repair thanks to an accidental fire and the hazards of Ireland’s notorious weather.

The period between the 16th and 17th centuries turned out to be a very turbulent time in Irish history and have had lasting effects on the island that are still felt today. In 1536, King Henry VIII of England conquered Ireland, deposed its rulers and enforced a London-style form of centralized government controlled by the monarchy.

At the same time the English reformation was taking place in Britain meaning that the Irish would also be forced to break with Rome and the Catholic Church ultimately leading to centuries of secretariat animosity between Irish Catholics and Protestants.

Ownership of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, like most of Ireland’s cathedrals was transferred to the Church of Ireland, which was independent of the Catholic Church and declared King Henry VIII to be the Supreme Head of the Church on Earth. The change in ownership meant that modifications would have to be made to the cathedral to reflect the theological changes.

A point which fuelled Irish contempt for their English colonizers was that the English wantonly defaced the church, neglected it and even at one point used it as a stable for Thomas Cromwell’s horses. 

The Lady Chapel

By the 19th century the cathedral was in ruins but was lucky to earn itself a very wealthy benefactor in Sir Benjamin Guinness, the richest man in Ireland and owner of the Guinness Brewing Company. 

Guinness donated over £150,000 to restore the building which closed for restoration between 1860-1865. Rather than just investing funds into the cathedral's restoration, Guinness took a leadership role in the project and personally oversaw not only the restoration of the cathedral but a redesign of the interior of the building for which he made significant changes.

Today the cathedral is a not only a busy place of worship but also an important tourist spot for people visiting Dublin. The price of admission for tourists ensures that St. Patrick's is in a constant state of repair so that this important piece of Irish history is available for future generations to enjoy.

Getting There

The Cathedral is open to visitors from 9:00am - 5:00pm every day except for on Sunday when visiting hours are split up in blocks that allow for the cathedral to perform services. The time for visiting changes during the year, so its a good idea to check the website to see what time the cathedral will be open at the time of year you plan to visit.

Admission to the cathedral is €7.00 for adults and €6.00 for students with special family and group rates offered as well. If you would prefer to book a public tour, which are available from Monday to Saturday you can also book that on the website.

 

The cathedral is located at the junction of Patrick Street and Upper Kevin Street and is easily accessible by foot from the city centre, but if you prefer to take public transportation you can take Dublin Bus 49, 54a, 56a, 77a or 151. I suggest using the Dublin Bus website or downloading the free app to figure out which route is best for you based on where you are travelling from.