Hsinchu

Dong'An Bridge (東安古橋)

Social Media has the power to turn obscure, little-known places into an overnight hotspots - I’ve blogged a few times recently about how social media trends have transformed places like Jinmian Mountain and Water Buffalo Valley (which were once not very well-known by the general public) into tourist hotspots overnight thanks to the power of social media and a news media that more or less just looks to what’s happening online for its nightly news.

Today’s post is yet another one of these “instagrammable” hotspots and is one that I’ve likely passed by a hundred times, yet never actually realized that it existed until it became one of these ‘insta-spots’

Thanks to Instagram though, I’ve found yet another leftover remnant of the Japanese Colonial Era and while it isn’t a building like some of the other places I’ve been searching for, it is quite a nice place to take photos. 

The current version of Guanxi Township’s (關西鎮) Dong-An Bridge (東安古橋) is a beautiful stone arched bridge that dates back to 1933 (昭和8年) and has survived over eight decades thanks to the superb construction techniques and design brought to Taiwan from Japan.

The stone bridge that we see today replaced the original wooden version named “Cai-Feng Bridge” (彩鳳橋) which was constructed only a few years earlier. The original bridge had to be torn down after six years of use due to structural issues that were caused by Taiwan’s humidity, the rainy season and frequent earthquakes and typhoons.

Upon completion, the new bridge served as an important connection between the downtown area of Guanxi Village with the Dong’An (東安) suburb across the river as well as the mountains nearby which made transporting fresh produce and timber into the business areas of the town much more convenient.

Guanxi Village, which was known as Kansai (關西街) during the Japanese Colonial-Era is most well known for its production of a medicinal herb of the mint family known as Chinese Mesona (仙草) which is quite popular in Asia. The herb, which is most commonly referred to as “Grass Jelly” in Taiwan helped to bring riches to the Guanxi area. With the help of modern production techniques, and of course the new bridge, the small village became known as the ‘Grass Jelly Capital of Taiwan’ and still contributes to over 80% of Taiwan’s Grass Jelly production today.

Design

Dong’An Bridge is classified as a stone arch bridge, which is a type of bridge design that has been popular around the world for well over three-thousand years.

The bridge has five different arches that allow water from the river below to flow freely while at the same time allowing weight to be freely distributed between each of the five abutments as well as the support structure on either side of the bridge.

Japanese engineers are well-versed in the construction of arched bridges of this variety and as was the case with the beautiful wooden Kintai Bridge (錦帯橋) in Japan, the engineers who constructed the Dong’An bridge were also sure to protect it from floods by controlling the flow of water through the river which could overflow during a typhoon of Taiwan’s rainy season.

Recent Popularity

There are a few different factors that went into adding to the popularity of the bridge over recent years. The first is that the the Guanxi village government recently completed a beautiful recreation park known as the Niulanhe Riverside Park (牛欄河親水公園) that the bridge is now a part of.

The park is a popular space for local people to spend time with their families as well as for exercising and is also a spot where you will often find local artists and musicians putting on live performances.

The next factor and the one that likely started the whole Instagram thing is that the bridge was featured in a scene in the hit 2015 movie, “Our Times” (我的少女時代) - a cute movie that I had initially avoided watching, but eventually succumbed to and enjoyed while doing research for this blog.

Since then, the bridge has become not only a popular place for locals to pass by while doing their exercises or visiting the park, but also an attraction for people coming out of town who want to get some photos of the historic structure.

If you find yourself in the Guanxi area, it is quite easy to stop by this bridge and you need very little time to check it out. There is actually quite of bit of history to check out in the small village of Guanxi, so if you are in the area you might also want to consider checking out some of the old Japanese-era buildings, the Old Street, Chau-Yin Temple and some of the amazing Hakka restaurants in the town area.

Overall a quick walk around the downtown won’t take you very long, so you won’t need a lot of time to visit, but if you’re like myself and you’re interested in history, then a walk around the village will be one where you’re able to learn quite a bit while also sampling not only some great Hakka food but also the cuisines of South East Asians who have made the small village their own.


Map / Location

 

Celestial Lake (仙湖)

During the summer, when I’m not out lugging my camera gear around taking photos, I can usually be found on the hunt for mountainous waterholes to go swimming in. Over my years of living in Taiwan I’ve found that I’ve started to enjoy my time swimming in waterfalls, rivers and mountain streams much more than any of Taiwan’s various beaches.

I suppose I much prefer the freedom and solitude of the mountains as well as the cold fresh water rather than the party almost nightclub-like atmosphere you get at beaches in Taiwan where swimming anywhere deeper than your ankles is highly regulated and sometimes frowned upon.

I have quite a few places that I enjoy visiting and are close enough to where I live that they have become go-to swimming spots when I want to get out to enjoy a bit of nature and a swim. The area I live in has a couple of waterfalls and rivers that I frequent but the mountains of neighbouring Hsinchu county has quite a few locations that I enjoy visiting when I have a bit of time.  

Sometimes when I hear about a location I can never actually be too sure about how viable it is for swimming, but thanks to the Follow Xiaofei blog I was actually quite confident that a visit to the so-called “Celestial Lake” (仙湖) would be one that would offer a pretty awesome swimming experience and also one that would be great for photos as well. 

When I made plans to go to the lake with friends, I started mapping out the roads and checking photos of the lake the night before we planned to go. I planned to not only visit the lake for a swim but also go to a nearby waterfall to take some photos as well. One of the things I noticed when I was checking out photos of the place is how the crystal clear jade-coloured water looked like what I saw when I visited Hualien’s beautiful Mugumuyu (慕谷慕魚) which got me really excited to visit the lake. 

When we arrived and crossed the river, our first glance at the lake didn’t disappoint as it seemed as if the water was so crystal-clear that you could see the bottom at even the deepest points. The jade-green colour of the water itself indicated that not only was the water clean but would also be great for swimming, so after taking a few photos, we jumped right in and swam for an hour or two.

The water in the lake was a lot warmer than what you’d usually find in a waterfall or river stream and is actually quite deep meaning that you can safely do a bit of cliff jumping from the cliffs beside the lake - which I did quite a few times!

Considering that it took me just over an hour to arrive at this beautiful lake, I have added it to my list of go-to places that I’ll visit several times over the next few summers for whenever the weather gets so unbearable that the only alternative is to jump in a cold lake!

If you need more information about how to get to the lake, check out Follow Xiao-Fei’s post with his excellent map that will help get you there!

If you go, remember to have fun and be safe


Map / Location

 

Getting to the lake is quite easy if you have your own method of transportation.

There are possibly buses that will take you to Wufeng (五峰) from either Hsinchu or Jhudong but once you arrive in the beautiful old Indigenous villlage you’ll have to hike down the hill to the river, cross the bridge and then keep hiking to the “Celestial Lake Campground” (仙湖露營區) that is closest to the lake. 

If you have your own method of transportation, be it car or scooter it is quite easy to get to the lake but rather than me giving a long list of directions it would probably be better just to check out Xiao-Fei’s Map  


Hsinchu Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭)

For the past year I’ve made it a bit of a personal project to search out, photograph and document the history of some of the remnants of Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era. In that time I’ve visited most of the remaining Martial Arts Halls, Shinto Shrines, some old dormitories and former communities.

One of the things that I’ve learned through all of this is that in the seventy years since the end of the occupation period (and even throughout Taiwan’s massive development), you’re still able to find evidence of the Japanese Colonial Era in almost every city and small village throughout this country - So its best to always keep your eyes open when you’re travelling around because you’re bound to find something interesting!

Although I’ve visited quite a few of the various buildings of cultural and religious influence left over from the Japanese Colonial Era, the place I’m posting about today is something completely new to me and is something I’ve yet to come across in my search for Colonial Era relics.

Of all the different types of buildings I’ve found so far I find it hard to believe that I’ve never actually ever wondered why I hadn’t yet found a restaurant. I guess the reason for this is because every where you go in Taiwan you're likely to find a multitude of Japanese restaurants that faithfully cover and pay respect to every region and style of Japanese cuisine. It never occurred to me that there might actually still be some traditional restaurants still in existence.

Ryōtei (料亭) 

Despite having so many great options for Japanese food in Taiwan, one type of restaurant that you’re not likely to find these days is a traditional Ryōtei (料亭), one of Japan's most traditional and luxurious dining experiences.

In Japanese, the word Ryōtei comes from the shortened word “ryōri” (りょうり/料理) which refers to cuisine and the word “tei” (亭) refers to a “pavilion” or an elegant residence. Basically a Ryōtei is a luxurious restaurant where guests dine in private rooms and are served by waitresses wearing kimono. Patrons in a Ryōtei are served a traditional set multi-course menu known as “kaiseki-ryōri” (懐石料理) that is known not only for its great taste but the great artistic care that is taken to prepare it.

In some cases a visit to a Ryōtei also includes the company of geisha who act as hostesses and provide live entertainment to the guests.

Traditionally, Ryōtei’s only accept new customers by referral and have the reputation as being exclusive “members-only” type places. This practice has changed in modern times but the restaurants are still a favourite among high-level businessmen and politicians who visit to have discreet meetings where they are able to woo prospective clients or to seal an important deal.

While preparing to write this blog I did a bit of research about Ryōtei in Taiwan during the Japanese Colonial Era but there wasn’t much information about their history available online. What I did find however is that there is one in Tainan City that has been restored and opened to the public as a museum of sorts and then another in Hsinchu City which has also been restored but thus far is not yet open to the public.

Hsinchu Park (新竹公園) is home to not only the historic Hsinchu Zoo, the Hsinchu Confucius Temple and the Hsinchu Glass Museum but also the beautiful Lakeside Ryotei (湖畔料亭) which I'll be introducing today.

The Lakeside Ryōtei, built on the banks of Li Lake (麗池) originally consisted of five separate buildings that varied in size. Visiting the restaurant would have been a complete experience that included the tranquility of the lake but also a beautifully designed park-like atmosphere with small foot bridges, lanterns and ponds with wildlife roaming the grounds.

Today you may not be able to enter the buildings (there are plans to open them in the future) or have one of the traditional meals inside but you can certainly enjoy the scenery as well as the various species of birds, turtles and fish which live in the lake area.

History / Design

Constructed in 1931 (昭和6年) and then expanded upon in 1935 (昭和10年) the restaurants were considered a 'garden-style recreation area' for the employees of Shinchiku Prefecture (新竹州) which consisted of modern-day Hsinchu, Taoyuan and Miaoli.

Each of the five buildings were constructed with traditional Japanese architecture using Taiwanese cypress (檜木) and have beautiful black tiled roofs. The buildings were elevated off of the ground using cement planks (in case of flooding) with traditional Japanese tatami floorboards. All of the buildings have a different design but the buildings that you will probably spend the most time looking at are the two that have windows on all four sides.

Taking into consideration that Hsinchu is well known historically for its glasswork (and the fact that Glass Museum is pretty much next door to these buildings) you shouldn’t be surprised that the glass displayed in these buildings is so spectacular. The craft work that went into their original construction as well as their restoration is quite amazing.

When the Colonial Era ended the buildings were left abandoned for a short time before being absorbed as part of the Air Force 8th Battalion’s nearby military village. The village known as the Air Force 11th Village (空中十一村) used the buildings as an elementary school as well as converting others into dormitories which were dubbed “Arhat Halls” (羅漢堂) in reference to the monk-like nature of the dorms which were set up to house single pilots who had no dependents.

Unfortunately as is the fate of almost all of Taiwan’s military villages, most of the people who lived in the Air Force 11th Village ultimately relocated and the buildings were left abandoned. In the late 1990’s one of the original buildings burnt down leaving only four remaining albeit in rough shape.

When the Hsinchu City Government made plans to convert a nearby Japanese-era building into the Hsinchu Glass Museum (新竹市立玻璃工藝博物館) local civic groups pushed for the Ryōtei buildings to also be restored and put to good use rather than allowing them to continue to rot.

The plans to restore these buildings and put them to good use is an ongoing one and while the public cannot currently enter the buildings yet, the city government has plans to complete their restoration and allow for them to once again be enjoyed by the people of Taiwan.

So far it seems like each of the buildings will have a different theme for exhibitions which will be organized under the auspices of the Glass Museum which will bring these beautiful buildings back to life.

Getting There

If you are relying on public transportation to get to the Hsinchu Park, you are in luck as it is quite close to the Hsinchu Train Station as well as the Bus Station.

If you are travelling by train just exit Hsinchu Station from the rear exit (後站) and from there either walk to the park or take a Youbike. The walk should be no more than five minutes but each time I’ve visited I’ve taken a bike as there is a bike station directly across from the park’s entrance. The directions to the park are clearly marked on the road in both Chinese and English so its not likely that you’ll get lost. 

While you’re visiting be sure to check out the various species of local birds as well as the turtles and fish which make their home in the beautiful lake. Make sure to walk around the historic park and check out some of the other interesting sights which include the Hsinchu Confucius Temple, the Glass Museum, the Hsinchu Zoo and the weekend flower market.

 

The Lakeside Ryōtei have a storied history dating back well over eight decades and during that time have served many different purposes. The future looks quite bright for these beautiful Japanese-style buildings. If you are a fan of Japanese architecture be sure to check out this peaceful park - especially during the early months of the year when the sakura blossoms are in full bloom which transports you from a small park in Hsinchu to something you’d expect to see in Japan!